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AGNES C. P. WATT. 

TWENTY-FIVE YEARS MISSION LIFE 
ON TANNA, NEW HEBRIDES. 

J? 




AGNES C. P. WATT 



TWENTY-FIVE YEARS MISSION LIFE 



TANNA, NEW HEBRIDES. 



BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH AND INTRODUCTION BY 

REV T. WATT LEGGATT, 

NEW HEBRIDES. 



.1. AND R. PARLANE, PAISLEY. 

JOHN -MKN/IKS AM) CO., KJMMUIKUH AM) GLASGOW. 
HOULSTON AM) SONS, LONDON. 

1896. 



PREFACE. 

THIS book was undertaken at the request of many 
friends who had appreciated Mrs Watt s general letters 
and desired to have them in a permanent form. 
Although the New Hebrides has been a good deal 
written about of late, I believe that there is still room 
for the present work. These letters exhibit mission 
work from a somewhat unusual view-point ; inasmuch 
as they record twenty-five years faithful and incessant 
work with little apparent result. It is not difficult to- 
be cheerful and enthusiastic in a flood-tide of success ;. 
but it is given to few to labour as Mrs Watt laboured, 
amid reverses and discouragement, for a quarter of 
a century, and meet the summons home with a heart as 
hopeful as on the first day she set foot on Tanna. 
Years of hope deferred, no doubt impressed her with 
a juster appreciation of the difficulties of the work, yet 
to the end disappointment failed to damp her ardour or 
sour her kindly disposition. She never despaired of 
Tanna, nor lost her faith that the gospel of Christ, 
which she offered to its people, was the power of God 
unto salvation to all who believe. 



10 PREFACE. 



The materials at my command were far from being 
so full as I could have desired, and residence on a 
remote island, with unfrequent communication, has 
occasioned considerable delay in collecting them and 
completing the work. 

I have endeavoured to let her tell the story of her 
life and work in her own letters and journals. 
Sometimes an explanatory note is appended, or passages 
from letters of different date are inserted, where the 
same subject is referred to ; but in every case this has 
been indicated. 

I can only hope that to some extent I have 
succeeded ; and that this may not only be an addition 
to the literature of Missions, but also a source of 
comfort and inspiration to others who may be working 
for Christ in depressing and discouraging circumstances 
either at home or abroad. 

T. WATT LEGGATT. 



GERTRUDE RUSSELL" MISSION HOUSE, 
AULUA, MALEKULA, 

NEW HEBRIDES, March, ISM. 



CONTENTS 



PAGE 

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH ... 17 

TANNA AND ITS MISSIONARIES 47 



Xetters. 
i. 

MELBOURNE AND NEW ZEALAND ... ... 53 

TO HER FATHER. 

II. 

FIRST SIGHT OF THE ISLANDS 62 

GENERAL LETTER. 

III. 

BEGINNING WORK ON TANNA ... 77 

1. TO HER FATHER. 

2. TO THE FAMILY. 

3. TO THE FAMILY. 

IV. 

MAN TANNA 104 

V. 
SETTLING NEW MISSIONARIES ... ... 114 

TO THE FAMILY. 



12 CONTENTS. 



VI. 

PAGE 

STREAKS OF DAWN 123 

1. TO THE GLASGOW FOUNDRY BOYS RELIGIOUS SOCIETY. 

2. TO THE TREASURER OF THE GLASGOW FOUNDRY BOYs 

RELIGIOUS SOCIETY. 

VII. 

HOW WE SPENT THE HOT SEASON OF 1ST ) . 132 

VIII. 
FIRST EXPERIENCE OF A HURRICANE 142 

TO THE FAMILY. 

IX. 

A GLIMPSE OF CIVILISATION. THE MARTYRDOM 

OF TAUKA |-,2 

1. TO THE FAMILY. 

2. EXTRACTS FROM JOURNAL. 

3. TO THE FAMILY. 

X. 

"EARTHQUAKES, WARS, AND RUMOURS OF 

WARS" ... 1(U 

TO THE FAMILY. 

XL 
RAIN-MAKING * ITS 

XII. 

THOUGHTS ABOUT HOME -GOING ... ... 185 

TO HER PARENTS. 

XIII. 
BACK TO TANNA ISO 

TO HER FATHER. 



CONTENTS. 13 



XIV. 

PAGE 

FORMATION OF THE CHURCH ON TANNA 200 

TO THE FAMILY. 

XV. 
INCIDENTS FOLKLORE ... ... 211 

COMPILED FROM LETTERS IN 1882-83. 

XVI. 
IN PERILS BY SEA ... * 217 

GENERAL LETTER, 1884. 

XVII. 
ON ANIWA ... 226 

COMPILED. 

XVIII. 
A MONOTONOUS SUMMER ... 239 

GENERAL LETTER, 1885. 

XIX. 
AN ILLUSTRATED LETTER 252 

GENERAL LETTER, 1886. 

XX. 
EXTENDING THE MISSION NORTHWARD 271 

GENERAL LETTER, 1887. 

XXI. 

TOILING ON 282 

GENERAL LETTERS, 1887-88. 

XXII. 

" AND THEY WENT FORTH AND PREACHED 

THAT MEN SHOULD REPENT" ... 294 

GENERAL LETTER. 



14 CONTENTS. 



XXIII. 

PAGE 

CLOUDS AND SUNSHINE 307 

GENERAL LETTER. 

XXIV. 
INTO HARNESS AGAIN 330 

GENERAL LETTER. 

XXV. 
SICKNESS AND WAR 330 

GENERAL LETTER. 

XXVI. 
THE CARE OF ALL THE CHURCHES 337 

TO MISS CROIL, MONTREAL, CANADA. 

XXVII. 
A COOL SEASON S WORK 352 

GENERAL LETTER. 

XXVIII. 
"FAINT, YET PURSUING" 360 

GENERAL LETTER. 

XXIX. 
WAITING ... 368 

THE LAST GENERAL LETTKR. 

APPENDIX. 
MEMORIAL MINUTES, ETC. 381 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



PAGK 

AGNES c. p. WATT ... ... ... ... ... ... Frontispiece 

MR AND MRS WATT AT MARRIAGE ... ... ... ... 22 

CHURCH, WITH MEMORIAL WINDOW 39 

MRS WATT S GRAVE 41 

TABLET IN CHURCH 44 

MEMORIAL WINDOW 45 

GRAVES OF MRS PATON AND MR JOHNSTON ... ... ... 51 

VOLCANO (YASOOR) AND LAKE 69 

GRASS CHURCH, KWAMERA 75 

KWAMERA FROM THE SEA 85 

TANNA MEN MODE OF DRESSING THEIR HAIR IU7 

KWAMERA NATIVES AND TEACHERS (NAHI-ABBA TO THE RIGHT) 165 

WATERFALL, IFEFE, TANNA 175 

YAM GARDEN 191 

FIRST COMMUNICANTS AT KWAMERA 209 

STREAM AT KWAMERA 21& 

OLD MISSION HOUSE, PORT RESOLUTION 221 

MR AND MRS WATT 253 

KWAMERA CHURCH AND MISSION HOUSE 255 

YEMEITAHAK AND NANCY 259 

GIRLS IN MISSION HOUSE AT KWAMERA 261 

TANK A MEN AND BOYS 263 

HOUYE FROM A PHOTO TAKEN IN MELBOURNE 265 

TANNA WOMAN 267 

BOYS WITH YAMS 273 

PUBLIC SQUARE, MALEKULA 277 

SYNOD OF 1889, HELD AT KWAMERA 313 

SCHOOL-HOUSE, YANATUAN 317 

CHURCH AND PEOPLE PORT RESOLUTION 325 

YECRIMU 339 

LINE OF MARCH 341 

PARTY AT CRATER, YASOOR 347 

WATERFALL AT K W AM ERA 375 



AGNES C. P. WATT. 



BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH. 

AGNES CRAIG, the eldest daughter of Robert 
Paterson, merchant, and his wife Agnes Campbell, 
was born in Tylefield Street, Glasgow, Scotland, on the 
27th September, 1846. 

In those days her birthplace was a quiet and almost 
rural locality, although somewhat less aristocratic than 
in the earlier years of the century. Even then the 
wealthy merchants had begun to leave their substantial 
mansions for more fashionable quarters. Over their 
quiet demesnes straggling streets of two-storey houses 
were rising, where douce weaver bodies, in apron and 
Kilmarnock nightcap, drove the shuttle, or in their 
leisure hours delved their kailyairds or discussed 
politics with their cronies. Now-a-days the mansion 
houses have been replaced by huge mills and foundries, 
whose workers and their families reside in the gaunt 
unlovely tenements which are fast displacing the 
picturesque dwellings of the decent hand-loom weavers. 

Little Agnes Paterson was the child of many vows 
and prayers. Her two elder brothers had died in 



18 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

infancy, and her own health caused much anxiety to 
her parents. Referring to that time in a letter to herself 
after she had left home, her father says : " How earnest 
I was that you should be spared. Many a time the 
silent desire went up, that if God would spare you I 
would be willing that He should use you for His 
service in any way He chose." 

While she was quite young the family removed to 
Carluke, where her father had a cottage, and there 
most of her early years were spent. During her 
residence there, the great Revival movement of 185D 
swept over Scotland, into which Mr Paterson entered 
with his whole heart. He took an active part in 
organising and keeping up meetings in that village, 
and under his roof the speakers usually resided. One 
of the evangelists, who thus visited Carluke, was a 
Mr Robert Steel, a gentleman farmer, near Biggar ; and 
Agnes ever regarded him as her spiritual father, and for 
many years corresponded with him on religious 
matters. 

Another of those who came to help in the good work 
was a Mr William Veitch of Edinburgh ; who also gave 
a daughter (Mrs Milne of Nguna) to mission work in 
the New Hebrides. The two fathers lost sight of each 
other for many years till the departure of Mr and Mrs 
Milne for these islands (where the Watts were 
already stationed) led to a renewal of intercourse. 

About 1862 Mr Paterson and his family returned to 
town, and took up their abode in Pollok Road, 
Shawlands, on the south-side of Glasgow. Their 
residence was not very far from the ancient burgh of 
Pollokshaws, and in the vicinity of Langside, where in 



BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH. 



1568 the battle between the forces of the Regent 
Moray and Mary Queen of Scots was fought an 
encounter which finally shattered the fortunes of that 
beautiful but misguided sovereign. 

While living at Pollok Road, Agnes found many 
opportunities for Christian work. Tract distribution, 
reading the Scriptures to aged and sick people, and 
teaching in the Sabbath School, were all taken up with 
characteristic heartiness. Being the eldest daughter, 
a good many domestic duties fell to her lot. Her 
special charge was the care of the younger children, 
who were as fondly attached to her as she to them. 

Although the families of Patersons and Watts 
were closely related, it was not until they came to 
reside in Shawlands that Agnes became acquainted 
with her father s cousin, who was destined to become 
her husband. Mr William Watt was at that time 
attending his final session in Divinity at the Reformed 
Presbyterian Hall, with the intention of devoting 
himself to mission work in the New Hebrides, which 
the Reformed Presbyterian Church or " Cameronians," 
although few in numbers, had adopted as their Mission 
field with considerable ardour. Six missionaries from 
this historic church had already gone out there, 
in addition to which it may also be mentioned that it 
had also maintained for many years a Mission among 
the Jews in London. 

Mr Watt s elder brother John, also a Divinity 
student, was residing with the Patersons at the time, 
and giving lessons to some of the family. While 
visiting him the two young people met. Their 
intimacy ripened into a very warm affection, which led 



20 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

her in due time to accept his invitation to share with 
him the trials and dangers of Mission life. 

There are, probably, but few women who do not feel 
honoured by the esteem expressed in an offer of 
marriage ; but when the offer comes, as in this case, 
from one who has devoted his life to the evangelising 
of a savage and degraded people, it calls for serious 
consideration. Some women have gone out to the 
foreign field in order that they may accompany and 
minister to their husbands. We honour them for the 
devotion which led them to share such trying work, 
even where they felt no call to it in itself. By Agues 
Paterson, however, the offer of marriage was regarded 
as a direct summons to take part in the evangelisation 
of the heathen. In those days there were no other 
ways into the foreign field open to women save as the 
wives of missionaries. Zenana work, teaching in 
mission schools, and medical missions to women were 
as yet hardly thought of. 

Notwithstanding her earnest desire to engage in the 
work abroad, the fact of her having to part from those 
.she loved at home, with few opportunities of hearing 
from them, and but a remote possibility of ever seeing 
them again, gave her much anxiety. In a letter to her 
parents from the ship "White Star," shortly after leaving 
England, she says : " Both of you know that it was not 
without some anxious thought that I devoted my life 
to this cause. Wearisome nights, with my pillow 
soaked with tears, I spent, ere I could decide that most 
momentous question, Is it my duty to go or stay? 
Blessed be His name, He gave me grace to choose, 
what to some seems the evil, but, as I think, the path of 



BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH. 21 



duty. I do, indeed, rejoice to say that I have never been 
left, even for a moment, to regret the step I have taken." 

Time amply proved the wisdom of her choice, for 
her decision brought blessing to herself and many 
others. Her father, who felt the parting very keenly f 
said himself in a letter to her two years afterwards, 
" Who can tell but what you may have more comfort 
and contentment, even in a temporal sense, where you 
are, than if you had remained at home?" And again, "It 
cheers my heart to think that you have never had a sad 
reflection since leaving home. I often think that if 
you had not gone away, I would not have so much 
comfort concerning you." 

I would commend these words to some parents who 
are unwilling to let their children go out to Christ s 
service among the heathen. You may have your own 
way, but take care lest in so insisting upon it, you are 
thrusting from you much blessing and comfort for 
future years. 

Mr Watt and Miss Paterson were married on the 29th 
of April, 1868, by the minister of the bride, the Rev. 
Dr Patterson of Hutchesontown Free Church, Glasgow. 
After a short honeymoon trip to Lochgilphead they 
returned to town to make preparations for departure. 
Mr Watt was ordained a missionary to the New 
Hebrides on the 7th of May. The service took place 
during the sittings of the Reformed Presbyterian Synod 
in Great Hamilton Street Church. The Rev. Dr Wm. 
Symington preached from 2 Cor. x. 15, 16 : " Having 
hope ... to preach the gospel in the regions beyond," 
and Mr Watt s beloved Professor, Rev. Dr Binnie of 
Stirling, gave the " charge." 



AGNES C. P. WATT. 



On the Sabbath after the ordination, they were asked 
by Mr William Strang, a friend of Mr Watt s, who was 
deeply interested in the New Hebrides, and one of the 
founders of the Glasgow Foundry Boys Religious 
Society, to address the Branch with which he was 
connected, in Eglinton Street. They complied, and so 
interested the members and office-bearers, that they 
pledged themselves that very night to support a native 




teacher on Tanna. Right nobly has this Society 
fulfilled its promise. Several teachers employed by 
Mr Watt on Tanna have been supported by it up to 
the present day. It has sent out annually boxes of 
cloth and other useful articles to the natives. Last, 
but by no means least, in 1874 it sent out a fine 
Printing Press, which it has also kept supplied with 
type and paper. This press has been a most valuable 



HICAL SKETCH. 



adjunct to the mission in the New Hebrides. Other 
islands as well as Tanna have been benefited by it, as 
lesson sheets, hymns, and portions of Scripture have 
been printed from it. This continued interest in 
mission work was, to a very great extent, due to Mrs 
Watt s frequent and interesting letters which were read 
at the meetings of the Society. These letters and her 
addresses while at home were the means of leading 
several connected with the Society to go out as 
missionaries to heathen lands. 

On June 3rd, they left Glasgow for Liverpool to join 
the "White Star," a sailing vessel of 2500 tons, which 
was going oat to Melbourne with a large number of 
emigrants. 

Those who have gone through such an experience 
will thank me for passing over the parting in silence. 
It was borne on both sides with Christian fortitude. 
In Liverpool they were the guests of the Rev. Dr 
Symington of Birkenhead. From there Mrs Watt wrote 
home daily, one might almost say hourly, until the vessel 
sailed. In one letter referring to her railway journey, 
she says : " I may tell you I felt happy, although sorry, 
very sorry to part with you all. I had an inward joy, 
that it was in order to carry the gospel to the heathen 
I had gone. Thus far I have proved God to be a 
covenant-keeping God. As thy days, so shall thy 
strength be. May He comfort and sustain you all in 
the hour of trial. Cast thy burden on the Lord, and 
He shall sustain thee. Think of me not only as going 
from you, but also as under the special protection of 
God, who says : Touch not mine anointed, and do my 
prophets no harm. " 



24 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

Thus she is calm and resolved and hopeful resting 
on the blessed promises which are all Yea and Amen in 
Christ Jesus. She has taken the first step in her 
missionary career. Resolutely she has put her hand to 
the plough, nor once looks back, for she has reckoned 
the cost. Together the devoted couple set their faces 
to " the regions beyond." For friends and home 

"Some natural tears they dropp d, but wiped them soon ; 
The world was all before them, . 
And Providence their guide/ 

On June 8th they sailed from Liverpool. That day 
she took every opportunity of sending home farewell 
messages, even from such unlikely places as the quay 
while waiting on the tender to take them off to the 
vessel. The voyage to Melbourne took eighty-two 
days, and was on the whole very enjoyable. Their 
passages had been taken in the "Sulina" which left a 
week or two earlier, but owing to Mr Watt s having an 
attack of facial paralysis, they were transferred to the 
"White Star." As it turned out the delay was 
providential/ for not only had they longer time at 
home before sailing, but reached the colonies before 
the steamer. The "White Star" having some six 
hundred emigrants on board, they were enabled to do 
much good among them. After obtaining permission 
from the authorities on board, Mr Watt conducted 
Divine Service on the poop-deck on Sabbaths. Along 
with Mrs Watt, he held weekly Bible Classes and 
Prayer Meetings on different evenings during the week, 
among the single men, single women, and married 
people ; by all of whom their ministrations were much 
appreciated. 



BIOCRA PHICA L SKETCH. 



By the tug which accompanied them well down the 
channel she sent back the following letter : 

"We have much to encourage us with regard to- 
weather. I have scarcely felt that the ship was 
moving, only I feel as if I were sitting on a spring- 
bottomed chair. We have good food ; the only 
difference from home is that we have one accompaniment 
to every meal ; we get potatoes twenty-one times a week 
for a rarity. If you ask me what I get to breakfast I 
would say taties ; what to dinner, taties ; what to 
supper, taties. Now you are not to think that we 
get nothing but potatoes ; there are plenty of other 
things ; roast beef, boiled cabbage, smoked ham. fresh 
eggs, pies, tarts, and everything that is good. We have 
a splendid cabin and a large saloon." 

Evidently the voyage was just beginning, for on the 
10th she writes : " We were aroused this morning by 
the captain calling, Get your letters ready. The tug- 
is going off, and I have only one feeling of sorrow that 
I cannot send you letters by the way ; but daily, nay r . 
constantly, shall my prayer ascend to Jesus that we may 
be all one with Him. Then shall we soon meet and be 
an undivided family in heaven. It is vain to wish to 
meet on earth, if after we meet we have to part again/ 

After some kind messages to her brothers and sisters, 
she concludes : " Mother, this is for you, Because thou 
hast not withheld thy child, therefore in blessing I will 
bless thee ; and father, see in my mission to the 
heathen the result of faithful pious training and an 
answer to prayer." 

They arrived at Melbourne on the 21st September, 
and were warmly received by friends of the mission. 



26 AGNES G. P. WATT. 



With their wonted thoughtfulness the Rev. J. and Mrs 
Clark of Williamstown came off to the ship in a boat 
and took them ashore. They also stayed with the 
Rev. Dr Macdonald of Emerald Hill (South Melbourne), 
and the Srnellies, who were old family friends. Their 
intention had been to proceed direct to the Islands by 
the first vessel which might be going in that direction ; 
but in Melbourne they were strongly advised to go 
round by New Zealand. By so doing they would 
become acquainted with the church which was to 
support them, and embark for the New Hebrides in 
the mission vessel " Dayspring." 

They reached Wellington in the end of September, 
and spent several months travelling through the 
country visiting the different congregations. To Mrs 
Watt, with her deep love of nature, the magnificent 
scenery of New Zealand was a source of great delight. 
Everywhere they met with kindness, and formed many 
lasting friendships, so that when they departed at last 
for their lonely outpost of duty they were cheered with 
the assurance that the church had them constantly in 
tender and prayerful remembrance. By some strange 
instinct Mrs Watt had always looked forward to 
settling on the island of Tanna : and was actually 
somewhat anxious lest they should be sent to Erakor 
Efate, from which Mr Morrison was retiring through ill 
health. Her mind was therefore set at rest by a letter 
from the Rev. J. Inglis of Aneityum, who took it for 
granted that Tanna was to be their destination ; and 
they were cheered by the prospects of a favourable 
opening there. The letter also announced that the Rev. 
T. Neilson had been settled at Port Resolution, and 



BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH. 27 

that the Aneityumese at Aname were making cinet for 
the building of their house. The Assembly of the 
Presbyterian Church of New Zealand was held that 
year in Wellington, in the month of November, 1868 ; 
but on account of the unsettled state of the country, 
owing to the Maori war, only seven ministers were 
present. It was agreed to raise Mr Watt s salary to 
150 per annum, instead of the modest 120 at which 
he was engaged. They were also granted a whale-boat, 
and 30 to purchase timber for a house. 

When the meeting of Assembly was over the 
Watts proceeded to Dunedin, where they joined the 
" Dayspring," and after calling again at Wellington, 
they went on to Auckland, which port they left for 
the islands on March 31st, and arrived, at Aneityurn on 
the 18th of April. They then went round the group 
to see the several stations, and, so far as they could, 
the work of the Mission. At the Annual Meeting of 
the Missionaries (now called the Synod), they were 
designated to Kwamera at the south-east point of 
Tanna ; and Messrs Inglis and Neilson were appointed 
to assist in their settlement. Kwamera was considered 
to be a very promising opening, and certainly the 
people gave them a very hearty welcome. It was not 
long, however, until they made it abundantly plain 
that the calico, knives, and other things which the 
missionary brought were much more valued by them 
than his teaching. Moreover, Kwamera was on the 
weather side of the island, exposed to the full force of 
the S.E. trade winds. It had no shelter whatever 
for the Mission vessel, and only a very narrow 
passage through the reef for landing. Frequently the 



28 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

" Dayspring " had to lie off and on for days until the 
sea would moderate sufficiently to allow her boats to 
land their stores. Passengers embarking had many a 
long and dangerous passage from the shore to the ship. 
In those days difficulty of access was supposed to 
protect the natives from undesirable traders ; but in this 
the advantage was very slight, while the discomfort 
and nervous strain of boating told severely on Mrs 
Watt s health. 

The first break in their island life was a short visit 
to Sydney in 1874. Two years later they had a 
furlough of three months in New Zealand. In 1878 
they left for a visit to Scotland, which they reached in 
March, 1879, when Mrs Watt had about eleven months 
at home, and greatly enjoyed the society of her loved 
ones. On that visit, she invariably refused to speak 
at public meetings, but by her vivid descriptions 
of native life and mission work in private gatherings 
she did much to stimulate fresh interest in the New 
Hebrides. 

On the 6th February, 1880, they left England in the 
Orient steamer " Chimborazo." The weather was 
rough when they started, and increased in severity. 
On the second day out, a huge wave struck the vessel 
and heeled her over. The heavy steam launch and five 
boats, together with almost everything on the spar deck, 
were carried away. One of the passengers and two 
seamen were washed overboard, and another killed on 
board, while eighteen were more or less severely 
injured. It was indeed a very narrow escape, for the 
engine sky-light was carried away, and had another 
wave broken over them, the engine room would have 



BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH. 



been flooded and the fires put out. That afternoon 
the captain managed to get the vessel round and put 
back for Plymouth, where the passengers were sent 
ashore while the steamer returned to London for repairs. 
In ten days she was ready, and started out again in 
the teeth of another gale, which however moderated, 
and with the exception of a break-down of the engines 
for a few hours, they had a prosperous voyage, 
reaching Sydney in safety on the 8th of April. Two 
days later they left for the New Hebrides in the 
" Dayspring," which had been detained to pick them up. 

Shortly before their arrival on Kwamera, a dreadful 
hurricane swept over the islands, which destroyed the 
natives food and severely tried the Mission buildings. 
Their welcome back was on that account rather a sad 
one. 

The exciting scenes through which they had passed, 
and the suspense occasioned by the news of the 
hurricane, had a very disturbing effect on Mrs Watt s 
nervous system, so that in 1881 she was compelled to 
go to Melbourne, in the " Dayspring/ for medical 
advice, while Mr Watt remained on Tanna. Of 
Dr Macmillan, whom she consulted, she ever afterwards 
spoke with liveliest gratitude. 

Soon after their return from Scotland, the Rev. J. G. 
Paton and family went up to Melbourne, and at his 
request the Mission Synod appointed Mr Watt to the 
oversight of the work in Aniwa. From that time until 
1889, Aniwa and its concerns took up a considerable 
part of Mrs Watt s time and care. They were no 
strangers to the people, as on previous occasions they 
had taken charge during the missionary s furloughs. 



30 AdNES C. P. WATT. 



On the whole, they enjoyed these visits exceedingly. 
The peaceful character of the people, their attention to 
the ordinances of religion and desire for instruction, con 
trasted so favourably with the warlike and superstitious 
Tannese. They had the pleasure of seeing their efforts 
appreciated by a grateful people, and also of seeing some 
of the Aniwans go out for the first time as teachers to 
heathen islands. Often did Mrs Watt call Aniwa her 
" Bethany." It was hallowed by past associations of 
joy and sorrow shared with her " dearest Mission sister," 
Mrs Paton. It was a calm retreat for a season from 
the turmoils and fightings of obstinate "terrible Tanna." 

But with all that, it was a very considerable drain on 
her vital force. There were frequent packings and 
unpackings, as most of the household stuff had to be 
carried to and fro ; nerve-straining and exhausting boat 
voyages, and no less wearisome tossings, sometimes for a 
week at a time, in the " Dayspring." Their connection 
with Aniwa terminated on the occasion of their visit 
home in 1889. 

In 1886 and 1889 the Mission Synod met at 
Kwamera. On these occasions Mrs Watt was in her 
element. She liked to have a crowd of friends around 
her, and quite enjoyed the bustle of entertaining 
them. 

Towards the end of 1889 they revisited Scotland in 
order to carry the Tannese New Testament through 
the press. 

The National Bible Society of Scotland had received 
a legacy which was to be expended in the publication 
of a translation of the New Testament in one of the 
South Sea languages. The offer was made to the New 



BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH. 31 

Hebrides Mission, and as there was no other translation 
nearly ready at the time, Mr Watt, with the sanction 
of the Mission Synod, accepted it for the south-eastern 
dialects of Tanna. 

"They went home in the "Orizaba," and had an 
exceptionally fine voyage. The " Jubilee Singers " 
travelled with them as far as Colombo, and gave much 
pleasure to all on board by their music. Immediately 
on their arrival at home, arrangements were made 
for printing ; and for months life seemed to consist 
in revising and correcting proofs. After the New 
Testament was finished, Mrs Watt compiled and 
translated an illustrated Scripture History of 260 
pp. 8vo., the lessons being taken from the " Peep of 
Day" series. The book is an admirable epitome of 
the Old Testament, and is a great favourite on Tanna 
and among the people of Aniwa who understand 
Tan ne se. 

As she had now been twenty years a missionary Mrs 
Watt was less reluctant to address public meetings. 

In a very short time her services in this direction 
were greatly in request. In Edinburgh, during the 
sittings of the Assemblies, she addressed several of 
the annual meetings and breakfasts of Missionary 
Associations, held at that time. Her mellow voice, and 
the interesting manner in which she drew on her large 
store of information concerning the natives and their 
customs, together with her intense longing for the 
salvation of the heathen, made her addresses very 
popular. The interest was much increased by her 
singing of Tannese hymns. The greatest favourite was 
an adaptation of " Fade, fade, each earthly joy," which 



32 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

had been translated by a Tannaman named Kaiasi from 
a hymn he had heard on Epi. Possibly some may be 
interested in seeing this hymn in the Tannese dialect : 

Jesus is mine. 

1 Yesu Yermiianu, Yesu asori, 
Yesu Yermnanu, Yesu seiau. 
Ik narengi nabien, 
Marengi namisaien, 

Ik nane nakwaruarua 
Tcini tuke iau. 

2 Yesu Yermnanu, Yesu asori, 
Yesu Yerumanu, Yesu seiau, 
Ti arengi nabien 

Fei Yesu tuketaha, 
Napa sei ya neai, 
Me ma tuketaha. 

3 Yesu Yerumanu, Yesu asori, 
Yesu Yerumanu, Yesu seiau. 
Nangelome ya neai, 
Xermama ya tuprana, 

Tu ani na ngen aba. 
Yesu ikinan. 

4 Yesu Yerumanu, Yesu asori. 
Yesu Yerumanu, Yesu seiau, 
Nehekerien seiau 

Rasori Atua, 
Yesu namuruvien 
Saketaha pam. 

5 Yesu Yerumanu, Yesu asori, 
Yesu Yerumanu, Yesu seiau, 
Yesu amasan, 

Yesu Yerumanu, 
Yesu tik abi iau, 
Muvehe yesa. 



ll A PHIGA L SKETCH. 



They returned to the New Hebrides by the Sari 
Francisco route ; and so arranged their journey over 
America that they were able to spend some time in 
Nova Scotia and Canada, where they received much 
kindness from the ministers and people of the Presby 
terian Church. It was no ordinary pleasure to Mrs 
Watt to visit the church which had sent out Dr Geddie, 
the first missionary to the New Hebrides. In New 
Zealand they made a tour round most of the congre 
gations, and the hearty reception they received banished 
their fears that the church had lost sympathy with 
them and their work. During their absence great 
changes had been taking place in the islands. The 
" Dayspring," no longer able to overtake the work of 
the Mission, was laid up, and latterly sold. An arrange 
ment was entered into with the A.U.S.N. Co. by which 
their steamers from Sydney to Fiji would connect with 
the " Truganini," a small steamer which was to run 
round the group monthly. After running for rather 
more than a year, the " Truganini " was wrecked at 
Aneityum during a hurricane, but in less than two 
months the Company had replaced her by the 
" Croydon," which was considerably larger. 

None of us in the islands considered the steam 
service perfect ; but the frequency of communication 
was very much prized. Fresh from the magnificent 
ocean-liners, perhaps Mrs Watt expected too much 
from the little " Croydon," which was unable to land at 
their station on two successive trips owing to rough 
weather. At any rate her first impressions of the 
steam-service were decidedly unfavourable ; but she 
soon saw cause to think better of it. 
3 



34 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



The principal event after her return to Tanna was 
the placing of the New Testament in the hands of the 
people, and Mr and Mrs Watt were very much gratified 
at the eagerness of the people to have copies ; because 
books, and especially foreign-printed ones, had always 
been regarded by the superstitious Tannese as a certain 
cause of sickness and death. After that came the 
building of the new church at Port Resolution, for 
which she chose the name of" The Workers Memorial," 
to commemorate all who had taken part in the 
evangelisation of Tanna a long roll of missionaries 
and native teachers, beginning with John Williams and 
the Samoans, whom he placed at Port Resolution on 
the 19th November, 1839. 

After settling down, Mr and Mrs W"att devoted 
themselves to a much greater extent than formerly to 
itinerating among the villages, a work which, while 
exposing Mrs Watt to much fatigue and discomfort, was 
rightly regarded by her as of the highest importance. 
The instruction imparted by native teachers is not of a 
very profound nature at the best, and when left too 
much alone it still further deteriorates. 

Early in 1893 she had a severe illness which left her 
very weak. To add to her discomfort the steam-service 
was discontinued owing to the New South Wales 
Government having withdrawn their subsidy. A 
sailing vessel called the " Lark " was sent down by the 
Australasian New Hebrides Company ; but, whilst a 
more frequent service was provided than had been done 
by the " Dayspring," to say that this vessel failed to 
overtake the work is putting it very mildly indeed. In 
the end of the year, while the " Lark " was lying at 



BIOGRAPHICAL SKKTCH. 35 



Port Resolution, just about to sail for Sydney, and the 
long dark tunnel" of the hot season, which she so 
much dreaded, was opening up before her, Mrs Watt was 
gladdened by the return of the " Croydon." During 
the hurricane season, although she was far from strong, 
and a tumour on her foot made walking painful, she 
spent much time in visiting the out-stations ; residing 
alternately at Kwamera and Port Resolution. 

Before the steamer was taken off Mr and Mrs Watt 
had made arrangements to entertain the Synod of 1893 
at Aneityum, as a celebration of their silver wedding. 
The withdrawal of the steamer prevented the Synod 
from meeting that year, causing Mrs Watt great 
disappointment. The ladies of the Mission showed 
their esteem for her by a valuable present of silver 
plate. 

They had planned to go up to New Zealand for a 
short holiday at the end of that year, but the pleasurable 
anticipation of the trip was much overcast by a 
foreboding that if she once left the islands, she would 
never be able to return. Ever since her father had 
unexpectedly entered into his rest, she had a strong 
presentiment that she would be called away in like 
manner. Sudden death, so dreadful to most, had, 
through long contemplation, lost its terror for her. 
Although she was devotedly attached to her husband 
and to her work, yet we cannot wonder that sickness, 
weariness, and hope deferred created in her at times a 
longing to depart arid be with Christ. 

In the beginning of April they came round from 
Kwamera to Port Resolution to prepare for going to 
the Synod at Aneityum. 



36 



AGXES G. P. WATT. 



Two days before her death there were very few out 
at morning school and worship, and Mrs Watt went 
round the nearer villages in search of them. She found 
them engrossed in preparations for some heathen rites, 
but civil and ready to listen to her. On Wednesday, 
Sani, her Aneityumese cook, being occupied with other- 
duties, she had a long forenoon in the hot kitchen. 




Quite exhausted, she had to lie down with a sick 
headache, which lasted the whole afternoon. Towards 
evening she revived somewhat. After tea and worship 
she spent several hours writing letters and filling up 
her diary, and, as she occasionally did, entered in it the 
date for the next day. Just before retiring she read 



lUOdRA PHIGAL SKETCH. 37 



aloud a little leaflet-poem she bad found in her desk, 
on an old man crooning his grandchild to sleep with 
the psalm tunes he had learned long ago. It 
concludes : 

" Goodness and mercy all my life 

Shall surely follow me : 
And in God s house for evermore 
My dwelling-place shall be." 

Eighty-seven 

Mis mile-stone, 
A home in heaven 

Soon his own. 
He is only waiting no\\ 
For a crown upon his brow." 

Next morning she rose about six o clock, bright 
and cheerful, to resume her daily duties. Before 
reaching the bathroom which opened off her room, she 
complained of giddiness and sat down on the sofa. 
Mr Watt was at her side in a moment, and found she 
had fainted. He applied restoratives under which she 
revived, and said, " How did you know that I was ill ? 
I have no recollection of anything." When he repeated 
what she had said, she replied, " My dear William, I 
am thankful you awoke me, I don t think I would ever 
have come out of it. I never was so near death before." 
He assisted her back to bed where she lay down, but in 
a short time became much distressed by sickness. 
Some little relief was obtained, but in a very short 
time her feet and hands began to grow cold. By this 
time she felt she was dying, and said to her husband, 
" I am going to leave you now, dearie." Struggling 
against admitting what was becoming only too evident, 



38 AUXKS ( . 1\ WATT. 



he replied, " Oh no, Agnes, you have many times been 
as ill before." Very soon, however, sickness and 
fainting returned, from which she never recovered ; and 
in less than an hour from the time she awoke from 
sleep, Agnes Watt had entered into the sunshine of the 
"perfect day." She passed from the out-post duty of 
the Foreign Field into blessed and glorious service in 
the presence of the King. 

During one brief interval of the final struggle she 
said, " How true it is, that in life we are in death," and 
again, "A dying bed is no place to prepare for eternity. 

No sooner did the news of her death spread, than 
crowds of her dark-skinned brothers and sisters gathered 
round and poured out their unrestrained grief. All 
day long they filed through the room to see her for 
the last time ; while some sat on the floor and looked 
on her from morn till night. 

Mrs Martin, the wife of a trader, came over to assist 
the faithful servants, Ripa and Yecrimu, to lay her out 
for burial, while Mr Martin hastily prepared a coffin. 
Meanwhile messengers had started off to tell the 
teachers all the way along to Kwamera, and in the 
opposite direction to bring Mr Gray, a brother 
missionary, from Weasisi. Mr Gray arrived about five 
p.m., and, shortly afterwards, Mr Forlong, a missionary 
trader from Kwamera, along with the teachers from 
that district. As it was too late to hold a service in the 
church, the coffin was brought out to the verandah, 
where the natives crowded round to take their last look 
at the still face of her who had loved them so well. 
In the deepening gloaming they bore her to her grave, 
at the place where she had often said she wished to be 




. WITH MKMORIAL WINDOW. 



40 AUNEN C. P. WATT. 



buried, beneath a breadfruit tree beside the Workers 
Memorial Church. A hymn she had herself translated, 
" There s a land that is fairer than day," was sung, and 
prayer offered by Pavenga, an Aniwan teacher ; and 
slowly, amid the sobs and tears of the people, all that 
was mortal of their loved one was laid to rest. There 
at the very place where she first set foot on Tanna, 
twenty-five years before, she lies, until the glory of the 
Resurrection morn shall dawn. What resting-place 
more fit? Among the people for whom she agonised 
and prayed, and close beside the beautiful church her 
pleadings had gained for them. 

It is hardly necessary for me to say more. We do 
not claim for Mrs Watt either genius or very brilliant 
accomplishments. Her letters reveal her as a woman 
whose soul was filled with love to Christ and pity for 
the heathen. Those gifts with which she was endowed 
she freely and fully consecrated to the Master s service. 
She gave herself for Tanna. Over and over again 
in her letters she pours out the yearnings of her 
soul for their salvation. " I live for Tanna," she said, 
"and if need be, will die for it"; and her daily 
life among its people evidenced the sincerity of her 
words. It was in no conventional style of religious 
talk that she spoke of the women as her sisters ; 
for with such hearty sympathy did she enter into 
their lives, their joys and sorrows, their temptations 
and sufferings, that we cannot wonder that she 
gained their fullest confidence and affection. A most 
unexpected testimony as to her relations with the 
people is given by a journalist, Julian Thomas (The 




MRS WATTS <;RAVK. 



42 AGXES C. P. WATT. 

Vagabond), in his book on " Cannibals and Converts." 
Speaking of his visit to Kwamera in 1884 to collect the 
signatures of the chiefs to a petition for annexation by 
Britain, he says, "We go to say good-bye to Mrs Watt 
who is standing in the shade of the boat-house talking 
to the girls and women of the village . . . The women 
crowd round Mrs Watt with affection. My feelings 
receive a momentary shock when I see an old hag, so 
hideous, clad only in a grass petticoat, embrace and 
caress the lady with fervour. Not only a fashionable 
woman of the world but any working girl would shrink 
from such a contact with disgust. Mrs Watt does not 
like it, I am sure, but she disengages herself without 
any sign of repugnance. And then I understand the 
true missionary spirit. I see here the outcome of the 
vision which the apostle saw at Joppa, when the gospel 
of humanity and love to all, preached by Him of 
Nazareth, was first understood as being held out to 
all mankind, and not only to the parish of Judea. 
Nothing is common or unclean. Love and charity 
and the example of good lives ; these the missionary 
and his wife can evidence here of more value, per 
chance, than prayers and sermons. In time the seed 
may bear fruit, but the harvest is long, very long in 
coming ; as yet there is scarcely a germ." So much 
from one whom none would accuse of being biassed in 
favour of missionaries. Not only was she sympathetic 
and loving in her manner towards the people; but she 
possessed a wonderfully accurate knowledge of native 
customs and language. This she turned to good 
account by collecting, at first hand, many of the games, 
legends and folk-lore of Tanna. In the interests of 



BIOCl RA PHICA L SKETCH. 43 



science it is to be regretted that her busy life and 
multifarious duties prevented her from doing more in 
this department. Work such as hers in that line is 
much more reliable than the hasty generalisations of a 
passing visitor who is only able to communicate with 
the people in " pigeon-English." 

This same knowledge was also utilized in hymn 
translation. The Tannese are a musical people, and 
their desire for new hymns was almost insatiable. Even 
in heathenism the spirits were invoked annually for 
fresh music for the season s dances. On no island was 
the service of song more developed than on Tanna, and 
the spirited manner in which they sang was the 
admiration of all who heard them. At present the 
hymnal contains ninety-five hymns, psalms, and chants. 
They were also in the habit of chanting the Lord s 
Prayer and Ten Commandments at the Sabbath 
service. In the translation of these Mrs Watt took a 
very large share of the work. To translate an English 
hymn into a native language is by no means so easy a 
task as it looks. It is a difficult matter to render ideas 
which, in most cases, are entirely new to the people 
intelligibly, and while preserving the idiom, to retain 
some relation to poetry and music. In all these respects 
Mrs Watt succeeded to a marked degree. She had a 
happy faculty of seizing the leading ideas of an English 
hymn or psalm and turning them into idiomatic and 
melodious Tannese. 

But I daresay that one, if not the one, great 
characteristic of Mrs Watt was her patient continuance 
in well-doing. The Rev. J. Copeland, who was on 
Futuna at the time of her arrival in the islands, 



44 Ad XKX ( 1 . l\ WATT. 

predicted that she would "wear well." That, perhaps, 
more aptly describes her than any other phrase. Her 
humour, her sanctified common-sense, her irrepressible 
hopefulness and unwavering faith, enabled her to 
struggle on where many others would have given up in 
despair. She spared herself no toil, left no means 
untried whereby she might win her people to Christ. 
Truly, she gave herself for Tanna, Her death Avas but 
a fitting close, was but the seal and consummation of a 
life freelv consecrated to the eternal welfare of its sons 



i tl?*mur. ofi 

wire or 
WIULIAM WATT 

26 YCAIIS A MISSIONARY OJ. 

PORN IN SCOTLAND as 7*** SKPT. 194 
0IK.0AT POUT RCSOLUFTION TANHA 

26 T , M APWIL 1894, 



TABLET IX CHURCH. 



and daughters. Nor shall her offering, and the 
offerings of those sainted ones who before her poured 
out the libations of their lives for that dark land, be 
fruitless. God s time to favour Tanna is coming ; and 
they who have sown the precious seed in tears and 
weariness, shall rejoice together with those who reap. 

* Except a grain of wheat fall into the earth and die, 
it abideth by itself alone : but if it die, it bringeth forth 
much fruit." 



KIOdRA PHICA L SKETCH. 



On the day after the funeral Mr Gray and Mr 
Forlong put a border of stones round the grave, and 
covered it with white coral gravel. Afterwards a 




MEMORIAL WINDOW. 



railing was put up and a simple tablet of wood placed 
at the head, bearing her name with the dates of her 
birth and death and the Tannese words : 



46 A(fNES C. P. WATT. 



; In rabi nakur Ipare." 

(She loved the people of Tanna.) 

A more durable monument of granite will probably 
be erected there. 

Since then Mr Watt has placed a memorial window 
in the church. The design embraces a medallion 
portrait of Mrs Watt over a Scriptural scene. The 
artist has very skilfully represented Mrs Watt, in 
earlier years, as Dorcas giving out garments to needy 
natives. On either side of the medallion rises a Scotch 
fir and a cocoa-nut palm, while her favourite flower, the 
white rose, with the Scotch thistle and a Tannese 
hibiscus are displayed at the base, and the text from 
Proverbs xxxi. 29, " Many daughters have done 
-virtuously, but thou excellest them all." 



TANNA AND ITS MISSIONARIES. 

JN 1605 Quiros, a Spanish navigator, sailed from the 
port of Callao, South America, to search for the 
great southern continent of Australia. Passing through 
several groups of islands, on the 30th April, 1606, he 
sighted land to the south-east, which seemed so large 
that he felt certain that his long-desired goal had been 
attained. In pious gratitude he named it "The Great 
Southern land of the Holy Ghost." Australia, however, 
was yet beyond his horizon, and all that was loaded 
with his sonorous appellation was but the largest and 
most northern island of the New Hebrides group. 
Into a wide bay opening to the north he and his 
consort, Torres, sailed. Anchoring near the mouth of 
a river, which he called the Jordan, he drew up a plan 
and appointed municipal officers for a city to be built 
there, and named it New Jerusalem. As one would 
expect from his manner of dealing with them, he was 
not very kindly received by the natives. In a short 
time, skirmishes, fruitless foraging expeditions inland, 
and the violent illness of many of his people from 
eating poisonous fish, wore off the glamour of the new 
discovery, and compelled them to leave. Nothing 



48 AffXES C. r. WATT. 



more was heard of the islands for about a century and 
a half, when in 176<S Bouganville circumnavigated 
Santo and discovered several of the northern islands, 
which he named the Grand Cyclades. In 1774 
Captain Cook entered the group from the north and 
cast anchor in a harbour on Malekula, which he named 
after the Earl of Sandwich, then First -Lord of the 
Admiralty. He sailed as far south as Tanna, which he 
describes at length in his interesting journals, and 
north again to the scene of Quiros discovery. He 
surveyed the islands so thoroughly, that he considered 
himself entitled to re-name the whole group as the 
New Hebrides. 

On his voyage southward from Erromanga he was 
attracted to Tanna by the bright glare of Yasoor, the 
volcano, then, as now, a pillar of cloud by day and of 
fire by night. He named the harbour in which he 
anchored, " Port Resolution," after his vessel. His 
experience of the Tannese was much the same as that 
of all who have had dealings with them since. He 
found them insolent and daring thieves. They picked 
up whatever was neither too hot nor too heavy to carry 
off; and were even attempting to tear the ensign 
from its staff. They laid hold of the anchor buoys, 
and, when fired at, retreated for a moment, but 
returned so soon as they found themselves unhurt. 
He managed to establish friendly relations with a 
few of them, and learned the names of the surrounding- 
islands, viz. : Erromanga, Immer (Aniwa), Erronan 
(Futuna), and Annatom (Aneityum). Curiously 
enough, through a very natural mistake, he put down 
the native word for "earth" (tana), which in some 



X!) ITS MISSIONARIES. 49 



form is common throughout the Pacific, as the name 
of the island. The name is likely to remain now, 
despite all explanations and efforts to change it. It is 
called "Ipare" by some, but that means simply 
" inland." The natives themselves speak of the island 
as " Tana sore " (the great land), to distinguish it from 
the smaller islands of Aniwa and Futuna. Now the 
natives are familiar with the designations of the islands 
as known to us, but it may be doubted if originally 
there were names for entire islands of any size, in use 
by the people themselves. In most cases, the earlier 
navigators only learned the name of the district on 
which they landed. Captain Cook also discovered that 
the Tannese were cannibals, which was a matter of 
surprise to him, as food seemed abundant. He noted 
also the curious manner in which the men dressed their 
hair, which has led some ethnologists to find affinities 
between them and the ancient Assyrians. 

The first attempt at evangelising Tanna was made 
in 1839, when John Williams visited Port Resolution 
in the " Camden." Although his reception was some 
what rough, he deemed it sufficiently favourable .to 
justify him in settling three Samoan teachers there. 
Next day (20th November) he and Mr Harris were 
martyred on Erromanga. With noble Christian spirit 
the London Missionary Society determined to win for 
Christ the savage inhabitants of those lovely isles 
already taken possession of as it were by the blood of 
their heroic missionaries. 

In 1842 Messrs Turner and Nisbet were sent out to 
the New Hebrides and landed at Port Resolution, but 
were only able to remain for seven months owing to the 
4 



50 AVXEX C. r. WATT. 

hostility of the natives. Time and again, thereafter 
teachers from Samoa and Raratonga were stationed, 
only to be driven off or killed. In 1858 the Rev. J. G. 
Paton and his wife with the Rev. Joseph Copeland 
were settled at Port Resolution, and the Rev. J. W. and 
Mrs Mathieson at the south-east end of the island now 
called Kwamera. Shortly thereafter, the Rev. Samuel 
F. and Mrs Johnston came from Nova Scotia intending 
to settle on the West Coast, a project which in the 
providence of God was not permitted. Within four 
years, however, the gospel light was to all appearance 
again quenched on Tanna arnid war and persecution. 
Mr Copeland was removed to Aneityum, Mrs Paton 
with her infant son and Mr Johnston were sleeping in 
their graves close by the glassy waters of the bay ; 
and Mr Paton with Mr and Mrs Mathieson also felt 
constrained to leave. After a brief interval Aneityumese 
teachers resumed the work and held the fort until 1867, 
when the Rev. Thomas Neilson, accompanied by his 
wife a daughter of the Rev. Dr Geddie of Aneityum 
was appointed. The fickle Tannese had been under 
stood to wish for a missionary ; but when Mr Neilson 
presented himself, they vigorously opposed his landing, 
and threw the timber for his house back into the sea as 
quickly as it was put ashore. 

They gave as a reason, that they were angry because 
H.M.S. " Curac.oa " had bombarded them. The follow 
ing year they had so far relented as to allow Mr Neilson 
to settle amongst them. He laboured faithfully until 
1882, when he felt constrained to leave on account of 
his own impaired health, the education of his family, 
and the long continued unwillingness of the people to 



TAXXA AXD ITS MISSIONARIES. 51 



give up heathenism. In 1869 the Rev. William and 
Mrs Watt were settled at Kwamera under very favour 
able auspices, and when Mr Neilson left they took 
charge of Port Resolution in addition. In 1882 a new 
station six miles north of Port Resolution, called 
Weasisi, was opened by the Rev. W. and Mrs Gray 
from South Australia. They laboured devotedly for 
twelve years amid many vicissitudes, and often in no 



GRAVES OF MBS PATON AND MB JOHNSTON. 

small danger. Quite recently a young missionary, the 
Rev. A. Macmillan, M.A., from Aberdeen, Scotland, has 
been appointed to the work dernitted by Mr Gray. 
New ground has been taken up on the West Coast by 
the third son of the venerable Dr Paton the Rev. 
Frank H. L. Paton, B.D. 

" Mission work on Tanna," writes the Rev. W. Watt 
in 1887, "has had a chequered history. Time and 



AGNES O. P. WATT. 



again has it been taken up in hope, only to be given up 
in almost despair. How much is involved in such 
words as giving up/ abandoning, < being compelled to 
leave ! We may be sure that none of the European 
missionaries deserted their posts as long as they 
considered the ground tenable, and those who know the 
Samoan and Raratongan teachers would say the same 
for them; some of them, be it remembered, were 
faithful even unto death. The story of the evangelisa 
tion of Tanna tells of bright hopes fondly cherished, 
until rudely crushed; days of hard, unremitting toil, 
of anxious watching and waiting, of trial and reverses. 
Those of us who are at present at our posts have had 
much the same experiences as our predecessors, 
although in the good Providence of God we have been 
enabled to hold on, and have met with some measure of 
success." 



letters. 



i. 

MELBOURNE AND NEW ZEALAND. 

TO HER FATHER. 

MY DEAREST FATHER, I will write this letter to you 
as the first of a course in which I intend to give you 
always a full account of my peregrinations. I will give 
you all information up to a certain time, and in my 
next begin at the very spot I left. In this way all my 
letters put together will form a journal. 

Monday, August 1st, 1868. In Rev. J. Clark s, 
Williamstown. After breakfast, went down to the 
" White Star " accompanied by Mr and Mrs Clark and 
little Maggie. Such friendly people ! How my heart 
clung to them seeing I was a stranger in a strange 
land ; and I felt they were kindred spirits. Before we 
got down to the pier we met the Rev. D. Macdonald of 
Emerald Hill (a stout Highlander). He had come 
down to meet us, thinking we would not yet have left 
the ship ; and neither we would, had not Mr Clark got 
a special permit. We all went on board and had 
dinner, and having seen after our luggage, we again 



54 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



stepped into the small boat and were pulled to land. 
As Mr Macdonald was going- from home, he wished us to 
go up to Emerald Hill with him ; but I was very tired, 
and all my things were in Williamstown, so I remained 
at Mrs Clark s, while William went with Mr Macdonald. 
I did nothing that day but rested. Williamstowri 
quite fulfils my idea of a place in the colonies. The 
greater number of the houses are made of wood, and 
have verandahs. Some of the smaller ones are like 
match-boxes, but the white painted houses are really 
beautiful. The town is being laid out in streets, but to 
the eye of a stranger it looks as if every one just 
pitched his tent wherever he pleased. Mr Clark gave 
us encouraging news of the Mission ; all the missionaries 
seem to be prospering and in good spirits. 

After dinner on Tuesday, William and I went down 
to the vessel and got whatever things I wanted, and 
took a train from the Pier to Melbourne. The distance 
altogether is about fourteen miles. It was dark, and I 
did not see the country round about, but I afterwards 
saw it, and cannot say I was struck with its beauty. 
, . . The Yarra is a low-lying muddy river. 1 am told 
that when they have heavy rain it overflows its banks 
and floods the streets. . . . You will perhaps like to 
hear what I thought of Melbourne. Well, it is most 
wonderful for the time it has been in existence; the 
streets are wide, and there are some nice shops. 
Indeed, the buildings and shops are splendid, most of 
them having shades before the doors, and in them you 
can get everything " from a needle to an anchor," as the 
saying is. In the course of a few more years Melbourne 
will cover as much ground as London. Even now it is 



MELBOURNE AND NEW ZEALAND. 



a very large town. . . . There are plenty of theatres 
and low public houses, dozens of signs, "All drinks 
threepence." ... St. Kilda is about four miles from 
Emerald Hill. We took the train there one day with 
Miss Middleton (Mr Macdonald s sister-in-law), went 
round the beach, through the town, and then walked 
home. Really it is the most beautiful town I have 
ever seen, and were I going to live near Melbourne it is 
there I would settle. I only wish you could see it ! 
The one drawback for me is, that out here no one can 
bathe in the sea for fear of sharks. There are, however, 
public baths in the sea fenced with rails so close that 
the sharks cannot get through. . . . 

I mentioned in my journal that we were going to 
New Zealand. Rev. J. and Mrs Inglis are to be there, 
and we are to go and meet them. There would be no 
use of setting off to Aneityum, while Mr Inglis was not 
there. We will be able to excite interest in the 
Mission, see the people who are to support us, and sail 
from thence in the " Dayspring." 

. . . Monday, 7th August, The Rev. D. Macdonald 
introduced us to a young man named Daniel Macdonald, 
who to-day came and took us to the Public Library 
and Museum. The Library is free ; any one can go in 
and take down a book and read for any length of time 
without charge. The collection is large and finely 
bound. In the same building is a picture gallery, and 
I think the paintings extremely good. There is also a 
Statuary room. We also went to the Botanical Gardens, 
where there is much to interest. Most of the plants 
are foreign to me. Things that only grow in hothouses 
at home grow in the open air here ; such as grapes and 



AGNES C. P. WATT. 



peaches ... I understand this is a very changeable 
climate; in the morning it will be bitterly cold, then in 
the middle of the day a hot wind will spring up, and at 
night a cold damp chill set in. They are much annoyed 
with dust storms : I have only seen one. The dust 
comes in such clouds that I am told business is 
often stopped. Now I must tell you about Daniel 
Macdonald. He is a young man nearly seven feet hi<?h, 
strong and muscular looking. He is studying with the 
view of joining our Mission in the course of two years 
or so. I like him very much, and I think he will make 
a splendid missionary. If appearance has any effect 
upon the natives he will have an advantage, for he is 
head and shoulders above everybody 

MAXUWATU, NEW ZEALAND, 
Oct. 22, 1868. 

Though to many the jottings I take of my journey- 
ings in a strange land may seem dry and uninteresting- 
yet I know you will be glad to read anything sent from 
me ; so I will give you a short account of a trip from 
Wellington to Manawatu. We rose this morning at 
four o clock, and, after a little repast, set out on our day s 
journey. We had twenty minutes walk to Cobb & 
Co. s "Telegraph Line of Mail Coaches" Office, where 
we took out tickets, got our luggage put in the coach, 
and- set ourselves beside it. We drove past the Post 
Office where the mails were lifted, along Lambton Quay 
and out the road by the Hutt. The morning was fine, 
and I enjoyed the run to Ngahauranga, where we 
turned into a valley or gorge winding for six or eight 
miles up. The appearance of the sides was very grand ; 



MELBOURNE AND NEW ZEALAND. 57 

they rose about two hundred feet high, and were 
covered with rich foliage of a deep green and beautified 
here and there with clumps of whins. After reaching- 
the end of the valley we came to a small village or 
township named Johnsonville, and just then a thick 
Scotch mist intercepted our view. New Zealand climate 
and scenery are very like those of Scotland ; one feels 
almost as if at the coast for the summer months ; but 
there are some things that remind one that we are in 
the colonies. Some of the houses are such miserable 
huts, not much bigger than a large hat box, and literally 
buried in mud. The weather has been wet for some 
time here, and the roads in many places are a foot deep. 
When at home in Scotland I could not understand how 
the missionaries lived in such lonely places; but my 
knowledge has become greatly extended since then, both 
with respect to position and quality of houses. Some 
are miles and miles from their nearest neighbours, 
surrounded by blacks, and their mansions not so good 
by a long way as some of our farm appendages at home. 
You have no idea of the life that some live here to 
rn ake money. If a story were to get up that there was 
gold, there would be thousands ready to banish them 
selves for filthy lucre s sake. It is a disgrace that 
people are more willing to sacrifice all for that which 
shall perish in the using, than for the riches that shall 
stand the wreck of "falling worlds." However, you 
must not think that all the houses in the country are so- 
poor. No ; there are some which make us look one to 
another and say, "civilization is here." 

. . . We were taking notes as we trudged along. 
We saw fences put up neatly without nails, just tied 



-58 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



with "supple-jack," large trees doing duty as bridges 
having a fence on one side ; others trees were hollowed 
out like canoes and served for drains and gutters. But 
to return to my journey. After having passed through 
the last mentioned village we ran along Porirua 
valley, about two miles long ; and having reached 
the other end of it we stopped at Horokiwi Hotel, 
where we had breakfast. I can tell you I was 
ready for mine ; for although I had had something 
to eat, after the shaking and jolting I was beginning 
to feel sufficiently hungry, as it was now ten o clock. 
We had a change of horses and set out once more on 
our journey through Horokiwi valley, which was about 
five miles long. The first half, which was over rising 
ground, reminded me somewhat of the scenery going 
up to the Falls of Clyde, only far surpassing it in 
grandeur. You know the insatiable appetite I have 
for scenery, and you will believe me when I tell you I 
would not have liked to have missed the feast I had in 
passing through this and the Paikakariki valley. 
Horokiwi valley was splendid, having trees of a great 
height with leaves twelve feet long. The sides rose to 
an immense height ; in some places, I believe, to more 
than eight hundred feet. The road was often not a 
foot broader than was necessary for the coach to pass. 
But the most gorgeous part was yet to come, and by 
far the most dangerous. In descending, there was an 
awful abyss below us, and the road was cut along the 
windings of the hill. At the top we were eight 
hundred and fifty feet above sea level, and looking 
down the almost perpendicular rock, sheep on the 
level seemed like so many kittens ; while our path was, 



MELBOURNE AND NEW ZEALAND. 59 

if anything, narrower than on the ascent. Had we 
swerved half-a-foot, or had the horses become restive, 
we would have been dashed to pieces. It was glorious, 
and at the same time awful. The driver and horses 
have gone over this road for three years. We started 
from Wellington with five horses, but at Horokiwi 
changed them for two only, which have been trained 
for these terrific places ; and having carried us safely 
over and left us on the sea level, their work for the day 
was done. We then got five others and broad wheels, 
for now we had to run along forty miles of beach. 
How I wish 1 could paint our route and describe the 
view we had ! On the right hand sandbanks covered 
with green and yellow grass so tall that you could see 
nothing beyond it. If you were transported here you 
would almost think you had come where human foot 
had never trod, so lovely yet barren like is the shore. 
On the left was the ocean, stretching away into the far 
distance. I could see an island (Kapiti) resembling 
Cumbrae, only that it was much larger. It called up 
fond recollections of past friends and associations when 
I thought of the happy picnics and merry sails we had 
on and round the little island on the Clyde. The tide 
was out and we had fine roads. The shells along the 
beach were truly pretty ; some were white as the 
driven snow, others red and green to relieve the 
dazzling brightness ; we also saw some lovely birds . . . 
After a few miles of sandy beach we came to Waikanae, 
where we got a man on horseback to ford us across the 
river, where the water was up to the axles of the 
wheels. Having got across, we resumed the beach, the 
monotony of which was often varied by having little 



60 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

streams to cross. We again turned off along a dirty 
swamp, all overgrown with flax, which has the 
appearance of huge bunches of leeks. Fording another 
river, deeper than the last, we stopped at Otaki and 
had dinner. Here we saw a great number of Maoris, 
and looked through the native church. The missionary 
here preaches twice on Sabbaths to natives and once to 
settlers. The church is mostly of native workmanship, 
and is lined with native matting. Some of the Maoris 
were well dressed, some clad in an old blanket, and 
others in " puris naturalibus." We saw some noble 
looking men, but I think the women are far uglier 
than the other sex, and all smoke ! 

. . . After leaving Otaki we had some little way to 
go ere we came to the beach, but once there we had 
smooth roads. We met some Maoris who said we 
should not be able to cross the Ohau river, which was 
discouraging ; however, we ran on until we reached its 
bank, and certainly there was a "fresh" on the river. 
The parcels were all taken and piled on the seats. I 
sat on the one side with head pressing on the roof r 
while William and our fellow-traveller were similarly 
situated on the other. Thus we sailed through the 
Ohau river in a coach and five with the water above 
the axles. You get no such treats in Auld Scotland. 
Having reached the other side and resumed our old 
places, we betook ourselves to the beach journey again. 
After this there was nothing worthy of note until we 
turned up through sand hills and drew up alongside 
the Manawatu river, where we bade adieu to the coach 
and got a boat to take us over. . . . One man told us 
that the Rev. Mr Duncan was waiting on the other 



MELBOURNE AND NEW ZEALAND. 61 



side for us. He was on horseback, but had brought a 
man with a trap to drive us to his house, which was 
four or live miles distant Here we got jolting of no 
ordinary nature ; however, we at length arrived safely. 
After a drive of seventy miles, occupying fourteen 
hours, but which I enjoyed immensely, I was glad to sit 
down at last to tea in a comfortable house. . . . 

I am still, 

Your daughter, 

AGNES. 



II. 

FIRST SIGHT OF THE ISLANDS. 

GENERAL LETTER. 

LEAVING AUCKLAND IN THE DISTANCE, 
March 31st, 1869. 

I now begin to fulfil my promise of jotting down 
whatever I think may interest you. We came on 
board the " Dayspring " yesterday morning, and after 
getting our cabin in order I sat down and wrote to a 
few friends. In the evening we went to tea in the 
Rev. Mr Bruce s, and returned about half-past nine, 
when we found all in a great bustle getting ready for 
sailing . . . We turned in for the night and had a 
good sleep, feeling quite secure from cockroaches with 
our nice mosquito netting. This morning we rose 
about seven, and after the usual routine of worship, 
breakfast, &c., a large number of Auckland friends 
came off to hold a valedictory meeting ; at which 
Captain Fraser s child was to be baptised. It was a 
refreshing gathering and a very touching one. There 
was Mr Inglis, the veteran missionary, who had spent 
the best of his strength in the New Hebrides, returning 
to resume his duties ; Mr Morrison also, who had been 
obliged to rest awhile, returning to the place on which 
his heart was set ; and there were we, young and full 
of hope, entering on a field totally new to us, only 



F1KST SIGHT OF THE ISLAXDS. 



girding on the armour, but ever saying, "If Thy 
presence go not with us, carry us not up hence." We 
had the pleasure of meeting the Rev. Mr and Mrs 
Macdonald, who had laboured fifteen years in Samoa, 
and I felt much encouraged by their parental counsels 
and sympathy. They sat and held me by the hand as 
if I had been their daughter. They had been in my 
position themselves. All afternoon we were chatting 
and bidding good-bye until about five o clock, when we 
lifted anchor and bade adieu to the shores of New 
Zealand. One or two friends accompanied us out to 
the Heads, and went back in the pilot boat, while we 
were left to pursue our voyage. What a world of 
meetings and partings ! The sick delights to think of 
heaven as a place where the inhabitant " shall no more 
say, I am sick/ Those racked with pain rejoice to say, 
"neither shall there be any more pain." We who have 
our hearts torn with parting, look forward with joy to 
that time when we "shall meet to part no more/ My 
sorest parting was with my own parents and brothers- 
and sisters ; in the light of that, all other partings seem 
trivial ! . . . 

On board we have as passengers Rev. J. and Mrs 
Inglis, Rev. Mr Morrison with his wife, child, and 
servant; Mrs Logan and her niece (Aggie M Donald), 
and Miss Clark, who are going on a visit ; Mrs Eraser 
(the captain s wife), with three children and native 
servant, in addition to ourselves ; seventeen in all in the 
cabin. Now I will stop writing for a night. Mr Watt 
is up on deck enjoying the beautiful clear moonlight. 
I will take a peep upstairs and then retire to rest. 
How nicely we are going ! 



64 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

April 1st. Little to report to-day. I have been 
busy attending the sea-sick, for most feel uncomfortable, 
and as I escape that disagreeable malady, the filling 
out of tea and a number of other duties devolve on me. 

Monday, April 5th. Shipboard life is much alike 
every day except Sabbath. At eleven a.m. yesterday 
we had a native service, which Mr Inglis requested us to 
attend. I wish you could have seen the earnest looks ; 
and though I knew not the language, I felt that these 
people believed in that God they were professing to 
worship. At three, and again at seven, we had service 
in English, at which all the crew attended. 

Thursday, April 8th. Yesterday we passed Hunter s 
Island, and this morning we sighted the lovely island 
of Aneityum, beautiful in its moral as well as its 
physical aspect. I soon jumped on deck to see the 
island, and it did look pretty rising up out of the 
boundless ocean with its richly wooded hills and 
luxuriant foliage. The triangular coral reef, forming 
one side of the harbour, attracted my attention. The 
wave rising over this is first of rich green, and rolling 
along, it gets lighter and lighter until it breaks into 
spray. Once inside the reef we were in smooth water, 
and soon were lying at anchor. In a few minutes 
Dr Geddie was on board, and we were gladdened to 
hear that things were progressing favourably on 
Aneityum. He brought with him some splendid 
oranges, which were very large and luscious. After 
dinner we went on shore. I had to be carried from the 
boat by two young men who made a seat with their 
hands, on which I sat with my arms round their necks. 
I think I see how you will look when you picture me 



FIRST SIGHT OF THE ISLANDS. 



in such a position, for you must remember that they 
were black men. Once safely landed, what a gathering- 
there was ! About twenty-four young women, all 
dressed in clean clothes, consisting of a native skirt, 
made of a sort of grass, and a blouse or jacket, each 
face cleaner than the other. They had brown, velvety- 
looking skins and beautiful black eyes ; they would 
have gained the affection of any one. As they had 
come down to welcome us, we had to go round them all 
and shake hands. This ceremony over we went into 
Mrs Geddie s picturesque house. Little Ella Geddie 
and I were soon friends, and she took me away all- 
through the church, a very nice plastered stone building, 
enclosed by a reed fence. Then we had a walk through 
the garden to see the orange and banana trees. 

Friday 9th. To-day I had my first meal of taro and 
bananas, and enjoyed them much. The natives are 
very fond of children, and to-day when Captain Eraser s 
wife brought her baby on shore, what a crowd rushed 
to see the little man ! They could do nothing but utter 
shouts of astonishment over him. Coming off to the 
" Dayspring " in the evening, we had natives pulling 
the boat. As they were not pulling well, we managed 
to tell them to sing, thinking that might help ; but oh, 
such music ! they shouted so loud that when we wished 
to tell them to slow, not a word could be heard. When 
we got to the vessel, those who had been helping the 
crew and those who came off with us were invited to 
take tea. I need not say they required no second 
invitation, as " kai-kai " is a thing that never comes 
amiss to a native. When satisfied, they went on shore 
singing as before. 
5 



66 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



Monday 12th. Yesterday we went ashore to the 
native service. The church bell rings for five minutes, 
and the people assemble at nine o clock. They have 
two services without an interval. Dr Geddie took the 
first and Mr Inglis the second. After service a number 
of the people came round and shook hands with us. 
In the afternoon we had two services in English, at 
which all the crew of the " Dayspring " were present, 
who, by their good conduct, are a credit to the vessel, 
and set a good example to the natives. The church 
is plastered, has glass windows, the pulpit and the 
minister s pew being covered with turkey red, and the 
floor all laid with mats. It looks very well, and would 
hold from eight to nine hundred of a congregation. . . . 
About nine o clock this morning Mrs Inglis came on 
board and said to me, " The sea is calm and we are 
going home, just get your things and come along with 
us to Aname, and the Dayspring will pick you up on 
Wednesday." This we most gladly did, and after a 
beautiful sail of four hours, during which we enjoyed 
lovely scenery, passing exquisite valleys and sailing 
over beds of coral of every hue, we were landed at our 
destination, amidst a large concourse of happy faces, all 
glad to see " Missi " back, and each more eager than 
another to carry something. Although Mrs Inglis had 
been away for four months, she had a house in splendid 
order to go to ; everything was in its own place, which 
I think says much for her training. Seeing the day 
was calm, the girls were expecting us, and had roast 
fowl and taro ready for dinner, so in an hour after 
our arrival we sat down to a plentiful and well prepared 
meal. The Mission Station here is quite a model,. 



FIRST SIGHT OF THE ISLAXDS. t 67 

nothing trifling or flimsy like, and all very clean.. 
There is a Church, a Training Institution, and a 
dwelling house with many appendages, such as 
carpenter s shop, smith s shop, store-room, &c. The 
situation is not so good as might be wished ; but to 
remedy this Mr Inglis has built a small cottage up the 
hill where they can live during the hot season. As 
they pay strict attention to the laws of health they get 
on well. The Mission ground is well stocked with 
orange and other fruit trees, and towering above all is 
the cocoa-nut palm, from which, on the hottest day, one 
can get a nice cool drink of cocoa-nut milk. 

Tuesday 13th. In the morning we were awakened 
by the church bell ringing the people to school, which 
all attend from six to seven, before going to their 
plantations. The Bible is the sole book. It is a real 
national Scriptural education the natives here receive. 
There are schools all over the island, within ten 
minutes walk of each home, and these are presided 
over by native teachers. These teachers are of great 
value, and, I may say, give their labour free, for they 
only receive 1 per annum for their services. The 
natives are well behaved ; in each house family worship 
is held morning and evening. 

Thursday 15th. Yesterday was the Prayer Meeting 
day. It is held every Wednesday afternoon, and I was 
much struck by the attendance. All day the natives 
came in from every quarter to welcome " Missi," so that 
when the hour for worship arrived some three hundred 
people had assembled. . . . 

Monday 19th. Yesterday, although the morning was 
wet, a large congregation assembled. It moves me to 



<>8 A . NES C. P. WATT. 

see them so much in earnest ; they put to shame many 
in highly favoured Scotland ; and when one thinks that 
a few years ago they were cannibals and most abomin 
able heathen, one cannot help exclaiming, " It is of the 
Lord/ It also incites us to labour, and we hope yet 
to see the poor degraded Tannese, who have hitherto 
been proverbial for their wickedness, become, through 
grace, gentle as lambs. During service several of the 
men engaged in prayer. They are very original, and 
pray with great fluency. Mr Inglis takes all the 
native help he can get, and lets some of the women lead 
the singing in church. This is a great honour, for in 
heathenism they are the drudges of the men. In the 
afternoon I went to the Sabbath School. They chant 
the Ten Commandments, and have a large portion of 
Scripture committed to memory. . . . This morning 
the natives brought the wood for the roof of our house. 
Some of it was carried ten miles and that is no joke 
in a tropical climate. They came in a band, each 
carrying a load on his shoulders, singing and shouting, 
and one blowing on a shell. They then laid down the 
wood as a contribution to the Mission. We feel very 
grateful to these Aneityumese ; for had we to provide 
what we are doing, it would cost a large sum of money. 
Our hearts were rejoiced on Saturday by a letter from 
Mr Neilson to Dr Geddie, by a trading vessel, which 
informed us of the pleasing prospects on Tanna. He 
is getting on well, and was round at Umairareker 
(Kwamera), where we hope to go. All looks well there. 
The Tannese have burned a large kiln of lime wherewith 
to plaster our house ; they have wattling ready, and 
there is plenty of material to make a roof, and an 



70 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



excellent supply of spring water. This last is most 
useful, as many of the missionaries are ill supplied with 
water. There are two teachers and their wives there 
already, but I have got an additional couple to go 
with us ... 

Thursday 2 2nd. We bade adieu to Aneityum for a 
time, and after a good tossing reached Futuna in the 
morning. As there is no harbour the vessel had to lie 
off and on ; so we only waited to land Mr Copeland s 
goods. We found them enjoying good health, and the 
gospel gaining ground. . . . Here I got my first sight 
of heathen, and I can assure you I felt the advantage 
of my stay in New Zealand, where I saw the Maories in 
every state, else I would have been shocked with the 
sight that met us here. . . . The island is small, but 
rises boldly out of the ocean. . . . The population is 
about nine hundred. We left Futuna at twelve noon, 
and reached Tanna at six p.m. Futuna is forty-five 
miles to the eastward of Tanna. We had hoped to get 
in to Port Resolution with daylight, but the wind being 
light, the sun went down ere we entered the harbour. 
However, we were fortunate in having full moon, and 
the captain thought he would venture in. He is very 
cautious and does not like to make the land in the 
dark ; but we got in safely with comfort. The one 
thing that struck me on entering was the volcano, 
which is very active, and every few minutes sends forth 
a great blaze. It is a splendid sight, and I hope to see 
it better some night when there is no moonlight. We 
had scarcely dropped anchor when Mr Neilson came off, 
as happy looking as if he were in the midst of his 
friends. He conducted worship, and chose that most 



FIRST SIGHT OF THE ISLANDS. 



appropriate psalm, the ninety -first, " He that dwelleth 
in the secret place of the most High shall abide under 
the shadow of the Almighty." A psalm literally true 
in the case of a foreign missionary. Mr Watt and I 
went on shore with him, and were glad to find himself 
:and wife so comfortable among heathen. They have 
had an addition of a son to their household, to the no 
small joy of the natives, who think him a wonderful 
child, because he is a man and belongs to Tanna. 

Friday 23rd. This morning we rose about half-past 
six, and by that time a large number of natives had 
gathered round the Mission premises to see all that 
could be seen. I shook hands with a number of them, 
and Mr Neilson told them that we were the missionaries 
for Umairareker. They said it was " very good," and 
the people there would build us a house. You may be 
sure I looked with interest on the people among whom 
I hope to labour, though at a different part of the island. 
My impression of them, after having seen them, is better 
than I anticipated. I long for the day when I shall be 
tble to tell them of the love of Jesus, and teach the 
poor girls to make garments for themselves. Just 
now they wear nothing but a grass skirt like the 
Aneityumese. I liked the women very much. Many 
a good look they took at me. They touched my brooch 
and showed me their trinkets, which consisted of shells 
or pieces of bone. Alas for the poor sons of Adam, 
they wear next to nothing at all ! ... 

As yet you may say that no mission work is done. It 
is thought better for a missionary to look first after his 
own comfort arid to make all speed with the language, 
and not to interfere with the natives until they gain 



72 AGXES C. P. WATT. 

confidence, and he can speak to them. . . . Mr Neilson 
has chosen a healthy site, and has a comfortable house 
of two rooms. It is pleasant to think that he has been 
there for eight months and hasn t had the slightest 
molestation, but all kindness, so far as heathen can 
show kindness. At eleven a.m. we left Tanna and made 
Aniwa, which is fourteen miles distant, in two hours. 
Aniwa is a small island, low and flat, while Tanna is 
high and mountainous. As there is no harbour there 
we had to " lie off and on " until the goods were landed. 
Mr Paton has done much in getting his premises to 
such a state of comfort. He has a nice church and 
dwelling-house with a large garden in cultivation. A 
little daughter was born since the last time the 
Day spring " called. We were happy to find all well, and 
after staying a couple of hours we left for Erromanga. 

Saturday 24th. This morning we landed at Dillon s 
Bay, a place memorable because of the deeds of darkness 
there perpetrated ; a place holy because of the blood 
there shed. I felt sad on landing, for so many painful 
thoughts rushed into my mind. The very hills seemed 
dark and frowning. The natives of this island, to my 
mind, are the most disgusting, forbidding creatures I 
have seen even among savages ; but, perhaps, I am 
alone in that idea. They paint themselves mostly 
black, and dress their persons in a way too horrible to 
describe. They have a sullen countenance, and seem 
very cowardly and treacherous and half-starved. They 
are good swimmers, and came off in twos and threes to 
the " Dayspring." The island is large, but not so fertile 
as Tanna; indeed, they often suffer for want of food. 
We found Mr and Mrs Macnair well and the Mission 



Fimr ,s7(/7/r OF THE ISLANDS. 



work prospering. About forty attend worship, and the 
prospects are encouraging. . . . 

Pango, Monday 26th. We left Erromanga on the 
evening of the 24th and anchored in Fila Harbour on 
Sabbath. It is seventy miles from Erromanga, and we 
hoped to have reached here early yesterday morning, 
but the wind was light and it was five p.m. when we got 
in. We found Mr and Mrs Cosh well, and had the 
pleasure of welcoming the second little Cosh, a fine boy 
of a fortnight old. They enjoy much better health now 
than when they were obliged to live in a miserable mud 
hut. There is much to encourage here, as the gospel 
is gaining ground. The island is the largest of the six 
occupied, and is equal, if not superior, to any of the 
others in scenery. ... 

Erakor, 28th. Mr Morrison lives on a little island 
separated from the mainland by a lagoon. The lagoon 
is the finest sight I have seen, and the surrounding- 
scenery is enchanting. The rich foliage down to the 
water s edge, the bright green sea water covering a rich 
bed of many-hued corals, and above all a cloudless sky 
of brightest blue. It is like dreamland or fairyland ! 
The natives of Efate are quite different from the other 
islanders. The men are tall, and even in their heathen 
state wear a covering. The women are ugly, have 
large noses and wear a dress consisting of two aprons. 
Men and women alike wear bracelets, some of which are 
beautiful. They adorn their hair by hanging two or 
three dozen boars tusks to the ends of it, all round their 
heads. Their language seems somewhat like Maori. 
They make beautiful mats with unbleached calico, 
seventy fathoms of which I bought for my house. So- 



74 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

far we have had a pleasant voyage, and have found all 
the missionaries well. We will have to beat back, as 
the south-east trade wind is dead against us. 

On Wednesday, 28th April, we sailed from Efate, 
and after a very favourable passage anchored in Port 
Resolution, Tanna, on the 6th of May. On Monday 
the llth, we started with a fair wind for the place of 
our future labour. We wished to visit the people and 
ascertain the state of feeling among them in regard to 
our settling there. At one o clock we were " lying off/ 
and as there is no harbour and no anchorage, the 
vessel tacked about while Messrs Paton, Macnair, 
Neilson, and ourselves went ashore. Long ere we 
reached the shore we could see that the beach was 
lined with natives, and we felt very glad to see so 
many. On landing we were met by one of the 
Aneityumese teachers (and I can assure you it is a 
treat to see such, on a heathen island, clean and 
decently clad), who led us to the little church which 
they have built. There sat the two Aneityumese 
women, and what a reception we got from them ! We 
are supposed to have a choice as to the field in which 
we wish to labour, but in regard to us, the teachers 
were told of our coming, and the heathen had burned 
a kiln of lime to plaster our house. Although we had 
a dozen places to choose from, this would have the 
preference. We had a meeting in the church with a 
number of the natives and four chiefs. Mr Paton 
addressed them and told them of the object of our 
visit, and asked them if they were willing to receive us 
as their missionaries. To this the chiefs replied, one 
after the other, that they were willing, that their words 



76 A<;XES C. P. WATT. 

were all one, and that they would be strong for the 
worship. Before, they said, their words were many, 
some were for, and some were not for the worship, but 
now their words were one. After the meeting I went 
and saw a little room the teachers had made for us to 
eat in until our house is finished. They seem to be 
energetic teachers ; their wives, too, had sewed up all 
the roofing for our house and had it all ready in the 
church. We then went and saw two sites suitable for 
building on ; the one new and the other the site of the 
former missionary s house. The natives said that they 
would come to either place. We were accompanied by 
a number of natives and a chief. The little boys were 
quite free and came and took my hands. But we had 
to hurry off as it was beginning to darken, and we 
wished to reach the ship in daylight. The natives 
thought we might have brought our house and stayed 
that day. We really ought to be thankful, it is truly 
" of the Lord." And though it may be mere selfish 
motives that prompt them to receive us perhaps onlv 
for the sake of bartering yet it is pleasant to get such 
a settlement, and we trust the Lord will open their 
blind eyes and enlighten their dark minds. Some of 
the missionaries were hardly permitted to land. The 
heathen are fickle and have many strange ideas, and it 
may be that two years hence they would wish to undo 
all that they are now doing. We have nothing to do 
with that ; the cry has reached us,. " Come over and help 
us," and our duty is to try and lead them to the 
Deliverer, and leave the future in His unerring hand. 
I am, yours very truly, 

A. C. P. WATT. 



III. 

BEGINNING WORK ON TANNA. 

1. TO HER FATHER. 

June 1st, 1869. 

DEAR FATHER, I have sat down to write a few lines, 
but ere I put pen to paper I was surrounded by half a 
dozen natives all wishing to know what I was doing. 
I told them I was going to write about Kwamera, and 
they said it was " ramasan " (good). 

We arrived here accompanied by Messrs Inglis and 
Neilson on the 27th of May ; and now I will tell you 
a little about our settlement. On coming ashore we 
found all in much the same state as when we visited 
them three weeks before. They were all down on the 
beach to see the goods belonging to " Missi," and as I 
stepped from the boat many voices shouted "Missi 
bran " (the woman missionary). The landing of goods 
here is no small task, as the " Dayspring " has to lie off 
and on. In this way it took all day to land our 
provisions, and then she stood out for the night. The 
weather since then has been such that we have not 
been able to get the frame of our house landed. But 
I have begun at the wrong end of my story. Mr Inglis 
has brought sixty Aneityumese to assist in building, 
and they have put up a cook house. I have two of 



78 AVXE8 C. l>. WATT. 



them acting as cook and steward, and I will not be 
saying too much if I say they do the work well. I 
wish you could look in on us here. The little church 
I have divided with a mat ; the one end is Mr Inglis- 
and Mr Neilson s bedroom, the other is ours and is also- 
store-room, while the little room the teachers made for 
us is dining-room, parlour, and reception-room, and 
we think it very comfortable, all things considered. 
Saturday was wet, and therefore we saw few people 
but on Sabbath the weather improved, and we had two 
services in the open air, at which a goodly number of 
natives were present. The services were partly in 
Aneityumese and partly in Tannese. The whole day 
was spent in peace and quietness, and were I not here 
I would not believe we could be so comfortable in body 
and mind on an island of naked painted savages. It 
is wonderful how soon the eye gets accustomed to such 
sights as appear here on every hand. All day long we 
are attended by naked heathen painted with red and 
black in all the designs they can invent. ... A man 
came from inland to see us, and Kapuka, one of our 
chiefs, brought him into the house. The clock amuses- 
them much. I pointed out to them the hours at which 
we rose, took breakfast, dinner and tea, when we went 
to bed, and how long we stayed there ; at this the inland 
man marvelled greatly. Shaking hands is unknown in 
heathendom, but soon follows the missionary; this the 
old man knew nothing about, and when Kapuka told 
him to shake hands with me, I wish you could have 
seen him, he was so nervous. Kapuka and Kaipapa 
shake hands with me every morning and say " fakecari." 
The natives have long consultations over me, and 



BEGIXXIXf, WORK OX TAXXA. 71> 

sometimes the chief explains what they say. Some say 
"very good, you live here," and one said, "I am just 
wondering at her goodness." So you see I am in high 
repute just now. The little boys and girls have begun 
to come with cocoa-nuts, and I barter with them in 
return. The other day I went to a spring of water, 
about a quarter of a mile along the shore, and I soon 
found I had made friends. About a dozen women 
followed me and did all they could to express their 
love ; they carried the jug of water for me, and gave me 
the present of a cocoa-nut. Poor things ! they are very 
degraded ; some look the very picture of misery, but 
others are plump and open-faced, and if they were 
decently clad they would compare very favourably with 
many at home. 

June 10th. Another week has passed over our heads, 
and I can hardly believe it. How time flies here ! 
Things are progressing favourably and our house is 
rising with all speed. I hope by next week to write to 
you from my " ain fireside." We continue to get every 
encouragement from the natives. They come daily 
with things to sell, and in this way there is a very 
friendly feeling between us. We are busy acquiring 
their language, and each day strive to get some new 
words. I hope soon to be able to make myself 
understood. . . . 

July 4th. The "Dayspring" came in on the 28th 
June, and Mr Paton came ashore. He informed us of 
a successful visit to Santo and Mr Gordon s settlement 
there. . . . One boat after another filled and went off 
to the vessel until the last, in which our dear and 
venerable friend Mr Inglis was to take his departure. 



A(, -XE8 C. P. WATT. 



His advice to me was to do nothing I could avoid, and 
to take care of my health. 

But the bustle of that day was too much for me, and 
I was seized with a very severe headache and had to go 
to bed. It turned out to be a bilious fever. I lay 
more or less for four days, but I am very happy to say 
I am fast gaining strength again. . . . 

Your own daughter, 

AGNES. 

2. TO THE FAMILY. 

July 19th, 1869. 

KWAXAPUKA KWAMERA, TAXNA. 

MY DEAR FATHER, MOTHER, BROTHERS, AND SISTERS, 
-To-day one of Mr Neilson s teachers brought a mail 
overland, that had come by a schooner via Fiji. Mr 
Neilson has been obliged to go to Erromanga, so the 
mail came to us, being addressed to the "Resident 
Protestant Missionary." A trader living at Port 
Resolution has sent round a message stating that his 
vessel is going to Sydney, so I will write you a letter, 
and if to-morrow be fine we shall go round to Port 
Resolution in our own boat. Perhaps this may reach 
home before the mail by the " Dayspring," which left 
a week ago. 

We are busy getting up some outhouses, and our six 
teachers have, so far, proved all that we could wish. 
The men have wrought very hard at the building, so I 
lighten their work with a little tea at each meal ; it 
does not need to be strong, if it is only sweet enough. 
The women are none behind them, clearing away the 



BEGINNING WORK ON TANNA. SI 

rubbish and making great bonfires. As I have a 
washing every week, they are kept in a constant move. 
Warai, the woman who came with me, is my house 
servant and does everything except bake bread, which 
I do three times a week, and at which I am becoming 
quite accomplished. She makes the beds, sets the 
table, and dresses all the clothes. Except what I work 
on the machine, my teachers do all the sewing. You 
will, perhaps, fancy I have nothing to do, but it is far 
otherwise. Last week I made two pairs of trousers, 
trimmed three hats for my three women, and to-day, as 
William was not very well, I have painted all my 
bedroom ; and every day, from half- past seven till four 
or five in the afternoon, I am kept busy entertaining 
visitors. In some places the natives have the full 
liberty of the mission house. When 1 saw this, I 
determined, if possible, to have one place where they 
should not open doors, march in, sit on my chairs, smoke, 
and gape at me while at food. Two months experience 
has now shewn me that if you make a reasonable law 
and tell them of it kindly, it is at once agreed to. My 
bedroom is i-tapu, private or sacred ; they only see it 
once, and when I please. In this way I have one place 
to myself, arid if a lot come wishing to see through the 
house, and I tell them 1 am going to eat, they are 
quite pleased, and wait till I have finished. If a man 
comes in smoking and I tell him not to smoke in my 
house, in an instant his pipe is withdrawn, and he says, 
" ramasan, missi " (it is good, missi). Of course you 
know, all go armed, but no club or weapon of war ever 
enters my house ; all such must be left at the door. But 
really you can have little idea of our life here. One 
6 



82 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

man came to me to-day and said, "Ik ramasan " (You 
are good). " Nari saik ramasan " (Your things are 
good). " Nimwa saik ramasan " (Your house is good). 
I knew there was something behind all this, so out 
came " Ik aveipehe miau shoo shap " (You give me a 
Jew s harp). The harmonium is a great attraction, and 
many times a day am I told by some twenty at a time, 
" Ik mo bokis mungkiari " (You make the box speak), 
or " Ani nupu, missi " (Sing a hymn, missi). This night, 
as far as we can see, we are on the best of terms with 
all the natives. Last week there was a great feast, and 
many from inland came to see us. Some were afraid 
and would not come in, then one of the shore people, 
who had more intercourse with us, would march in very 
boldly to show to his ignorant brother how far advanced 
he was. Some of these bushmen when they saw 
themselves in the glass started back, as if terrified out 
of their wits, to the no small amusement of their 
advanced friends ; others thought it was another room 
they were seeing. In some such style as this all our 
days pass ; when the sun begins to set, all go home and 
we see no more of our black brothers and sisters until 
next day. Of this we are glad, for we can have such 
nice evenings after six o clock. Sometimes I work on 
the sewing machine, sometimes practice sacred music 
on the harmonium, and at other times get in our 
teachers and teach them singing. Thus happily pass 
our evenings, and of our nights what shall I say ? I 
am invariably so tired in body and mind that generally 
I know nothing from nine p.m. till six next morning, 
when I rise and have breakfast. 

But it is past ten o clock to-night. As it is very 



WORK OX TANNA. 83 



injurious to health to sit up late here, you will excuse 
me cutting my letter short. You know that we have 
to carry it for twenty miles. . . . 

I remain your daughter, 

AGNES. 

3. TO THE FAMILY. 

K\\ ANAPUKA, KWAMERA, TANNA. 

Commenced July 28th, 1869. 

MY DEAREST FATHER, MOTHER, BROTHERS, ANT> 
SISTERS, I promised to give you a description of our 
house in this letter, so with that I will begin. At 
present we have two rooms. The parlour is 19x14 ft., 
and has two windows ; the bedroom is 15x14 ft., also 
with two windows. We have no ceiling ; the room is 
open up to the rigging, which makes it nice and airy. 
Now, suppose you were landing here, you would see a 
nice house enclosed by a pretty reed fence. Coming 
inside that, you walk up a nice gravel walk to five 
snow-white steps. Ascend these and you come on to 
our verandah with its white painted floor and a low 
reed railing painted green. The outside of the house 
is pure white, and the doors and windows are painted 
bright green. Having studied the verandah, will you 
look around at the scenery? North-east you can see 
along the beach for a great way, and direct east rises 
Futuna, reminding you of Ailsa Craig. But you are 
nearly deafened by the roar of the surf on the reef, and 
your eyes are dazzled by the bright glare of a tropical 
sun on the pearly white foam and the pebbly shore. 
Ah ! but the air is delightful, and you feel you could not 



84 AGNES G. P. WATT. 



endure the smoke of a city. But now having got you to 
the door, I must invite you in. The door opens against 
the middle wall ; and on this wall I have our largest 
mirror for the use of the natives, and also some coloured 
pictures which amuse them much. To the left is the 
harmonium, which also interests them greatly ; and a 
chest, which serves as an ottoman, is under the window. 
Against the gable wall stands the iron sofa bed, and 
over it hangs the barometer. Against the back wall 
stands a meat-safe, another ottoman is set under the 
window and a home-made chiffonier ; above these hangs 
the clock, and on it I have some books and two kerosene 
lamps. In the middle of the floor stand two tables 
put together, which make one nice large one ; and when 
a well cooked dinner, of chicken soup, yam and native 
cabbage, with a nice plumpudding, plenty of bananas, 
and a cup of tea with rich goat s milk, is laid out on a 
pure white table cloth, we are not to be pitied. I have 
no carpet, as so many natives come in, and I think a clean 
floor fresher. My bedroom is laid with mats, the walls 
whitewashed, and the doors and windows painted light 
green. We have in it a wardrobe, military secretaire, 
and an arm-chair. On the walls are photographs of 
our loved ones and the R.P. students. Our bed is 
made of banana leaves with feather pillows. As there 
is no ceiling, I have put up four posts on the bedstead 
to hold up a calico roof and mosquito netting. Now, 
don t you think the room is a very pretty one? We 
have about four acres of land, past which a lovely 
stream flows, yielding an abundant supply of pure 
water. Besides our dwelling-house, we have a store 
room, duck-house, and a house for poultry that are 



86 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

bought for food. Soon we hope to get up a goat-house 
and a carpenter s shop. William is framing a spare 
bedroom, which we are trying to get up during the cool 
weather, so that we will have no building to do in the 
hot weather. 

Now, in order to give you an idea of how we live and 
spend our time, I will keep a journal for this week. 

Yesterday, Sabbath. We rose about half-past six, 
had breakfast and family worship, and then dressed for 
church. We dress for church just as if we were at 
home ; William in linen shirt, black clothes and clean 
boots, and I with a clean muslin or print dress. Before 
the service commences, one of the teachers beats a thing 
like a small boat, which is the Sabbath bell. At nine 
o clock we went over to the church, which is about two 
hundred yards distant, and sat down, as it is the custom 
here to let the minister in first, and the people follow. 
The service began by William reading the Lord s 
Prayer, which he has translated through the teachers ; 
then we sang a hymn, one of half a dozen prepared by 
Mr Paton while residing on Tanna ; Kaipapa, the chief 
of Anuikaraka, prayed, after which William read a 
chapter from the gospel of Mark, translated in the same 
way. Another hymn, "There is a happy land," and 
one of the teachers addressed them. A hymn followed, 
41 Here we suffer grief and pain," another native prayed, 
then the closing hymn, " Lord, a little band and lowly," 
and the benediction. After this, the intimations were 
given out. Paul says that a woman is not allowed 
to speak in the church ; and I wonder what some 
people would say if they knew that there was only one 
seat in the church, serving as pulpit and minister s pew, 



<;IXXIXf; WORK ON TANS A. 87 



and that, till yesterday, I have always given out the 
intimations ! During the building of the house I had, 
and still have, most of the intercourse with the natives, 
and in this way I have picked up a few words sooner 
than William. The attendance was good, thirteen men 
and seventeen women ; counting the Aneityumese and 
ourselves there were thirty-seven of a congregation. 
After the Tannese service there was another among the 
teachers, to which William stayed, while I went and 
taught the women to sing. Fifteen followed me and 
sang most heartily, accompanied by the harmonium. 
After the music I gave a lesson on the alphabet by 
means of a box of letters which came in Miss Glen s 
box, and lastly a lesson in figures on the slate. Sabbath 
is the only day I can get them to listen to any instruction. 
While I was busy with the women, William had four or 
five men. After this we had dinner, and read for two 
hours, when William and one of the teachers went and 
had service at Anuikaraka. They came home at five, 
had tea, and an English service at seven, at which Mr 
Underwood, the trader who is here, was present. The 
day was delightful, and our hearts were cheered by so 
many having come to worship. But I must describe 
Kaipapa s appearance. He had on a blue flannel shirt, 
which was a good deal too short ; his long hair was tied 
on the top of his head with a piece of bright printed 
handkerchief; his cheeks were painted black, a stripe 
of scarlet half an inch broad began at the right temple, 
crossed the eyelid, came down the side of the nose and 
round half of the mouth. A stripe of yellow adorned 
the other side in the same manner ; while a red stripe 
came down the bridge of the nose ! Now, don t you 



AGNES C. P. WATT. 



admire him ? Well, that is the man who led in the 
first prayer, and, although he is a heathen and has three 
wives, still he has manifested a great deal of kindness 
to us, and was among the foremost in urging the 
people here to get a missionary. He has brought us 
several presents which I always took care to pay for, as 
I do not wish to be in debt to any one. He is not much 
of a chief, but is a clever, officious fellow. Yesterday 
week we heard that a man had stolen a woman, that 
the offended party had declared war, and that all our 
people would join, as the offended people were many, 
and it would take all the force they could muster to- 
meet them. Though we were not at all involved, we 
felt very sad, for our people would be so taken up that 
our efforts would be stopped for a time, and the 
pursuers were wild heathen the worst we know of here, 
But God, who sets bounds to the wrath of man, had 
otherwise appointed. Kaipapa sent two pigs and two 
sticks of tobacco as a present, which was accepted, and 
thus ended the quarrel. We were rejoiced. Kaipapa 
is tired of war. He says, now that a missionary has 
come, his people will not fight. Time will tell. 

Monday. We rose shortly after six a.m. Nothing of 
interest occurred, few natives having come this way, 
knowing that my beads were all away. William was 
busy at the frame of our new room, arid I at sewing. 

Tuesday. This morning we had scarcely got break 
fast over, when a number of natives came to " asipau " 
or look at my house, and from that time till far on in 
the day 1 never closed the door, and had to bake in the 
midst of it all ! They were not very troublesome, only 
I had to sit down with my hands all flour and " make 



BEGINNING WORK ON TANNA. 89 

the bokis speak." The trader here came over in great 
distress, and said that the natives had threatened to 
make him sick. Those who have any interest advise 
him to leave no rubbish about, for they believe that if 
he were to smoke one half of a fig of tobacco, and a 
native got the other half and burned it, he would 
become sick ; if the native continued to burn it until it 
was all consumed, he would die. He has got into 
disrepute somehow with the people. He does not pay 
so well as we do ! ... They have strange ways of 
doing things. I engage a boy to bring water ; three go r 
and I have to pay each the same. Now, Mr Underwood 
agrees to pay two men a fig of tobacco each for scraping 
a tubful of cocoa-nut. Four helped to scrape it, and all 
wanted the pay. This he could not, and would not give, 
so he broke the tobacco in two. It turns out that 
there is nothing so good as tobacco for making people 
sick. Therefore they are anxious to get it whole, for 
if some one burns the other half they think they will 
die. . . . 

Wednesday. To-day, Kaipapa came by seven o clock, 
according to appointment. The natives of a village on 
the way to Port Resolution had gathered coral for lime- 
for our new room, and Mr Watt with Kaipapa and the 
teachers had arranged to go for it to-day. William 
came home in time for dinner, and the afternoon was 
spent in the prayer meeting. . . . 

Thursday. Nothing of importance occurred to-day. 
In the afternoon William went out to fish and caught 
some, which we had for tea. In the evening he and the 
teachers were translating, while I was working at the 
sewing machine. 



00 AGXES O. P. WATT. 



Friday. It has been blowing quite a gale to-day. 
A number of natives came to clear and dig our ground. 
They came entirely unasked and wrought away till two 
o clock. Yesterday morning, long before breakfast, an 
old woman was digging and fencing and burning, and 
all the payment was a biscuit ! It makes me sad to 
look at them, especially when they come and put their 
arms around me and say so lovingly, " Pi-nak " (my 
sister). Yes, they are ; for God " hath made of one 
blood all nations of men for to dwell on all the face of 
the earth." . . . 

Saturday. This has been a busy day. First I had 
to bake, then followed cooking, painting, scrubbing, 
carrying water, killing fowls, re-boiling jam, and an 
innumerable lot of other duties ; besides feeding and 
paying a number who came to work. Each day 
by two o clock I feel as wearied as if I had done 
everything myself, while very often I have only 
overseen. 

August 9th. Yesterday the attendance was about 
the same, and much attention shown ; although not a 
single soul has a proper idea of what we live among 
them for. Their hearts are dark, and, though attending 
worship, they live in all the abominations of heathenism. 
For instance, Kiri, one of our chiefs, and a regular 
worshipper, took an axe and struck a heavy blow at 
his wife, cutting her arms and forehead, for a very 
trivial offence. We have heard not a few women 
screaming, under the blows of their husbands. Oh, if 
you were just here and saw heathenism, with the wild 
savage look of the miserable dirty creatures, in all 
cases, perfectly nude. Yet they are immortal, they 



WORK ON TANNA. 91 



have souls to be saved ; they are degraded, it is true, 
but Jesus can save unto the uttermost. . . . 

August 10th. To-day we went to see the place 
where Mr Mathieson lived. It is on a hill called Imoa. 
We intended to have got our house built there, but the 
natives thought we should be better where we are. I 
would have liked the view, but I have no doubt that 
when it is blowing a hurricane we will be glad we are 
scarcely so high up. The ruins of the old house are 
still standing, or rather lying ; for after eight years in 
a climate where hurricanes are common, it is no wonder 
that it is level with the ground. I saw many pieces of 
broken dishes, and could trace the garden walks, while 
I plucked lemons from trees which the Mathiesons had 
planted. This place tells a sad tale. Many nights of 
sickness and weariness were here spent ; many tears 
shed and earnest prayers offered, which shall not be 
unanswered, although the answer is as yet withheld. 
The name of Mathieson is almost forgotten. Many 
have died during those eight years, and those upon 
whom their highest hopes were set have as yet 
manifested no desire for instruction. I feel sad when 
1 think how long they laboured, and yet so little sign 
of permanent success. Perhaps we may have to do the 
same. . . . We searched in vain for the grave of their 
infant daughter, whom they were called to lay in the 
dust a fortnight before they left the island. They 
buried her near their house arid put a fence round the 
grave, but already it is unknown. Poor little thing ! she 
had but a short look on this world ; two months, and 
then fell asleep! Here she lies; her mother lies on 
Aneityum and her father on Mare, one of the Loyalty 



92 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



islands. "Their graves are severed far and wide," 
although there was but six months between the death 
of the first and the last of the three ! . . . 

The people are pleasant to us, yet we get much to 
try both strength and patience. To-day some twenty 
natives came to " asipau " the house. As they were 
from a distance, and most expert thieves, I told them 
they would get in by and by, while I hurried and got 
all loose articles out of the way. This was about eight 
in the morning, and from that till four in the afternoon 
the place was in a constant buzz. I had to go out and 
in looking after my baking ; taking care that some one 
was left to watch, although the Aneityumese have no 
power over them. While I was at the cook-house 
one of the chiefs opened the table drawer and wa& 
" asipauing " all in it, which, with some, means 
practically to look what they can get to steal. The 
teacher had told him to desist, but he heard her not. 
However, when I came in I told him that he was not to 
do that, at the same time shutting the drawer, so he 
immediately stopped. I often wonder how sturdy 
warriors feel when I clear twenty or thirty of them out 
of the house with a word or a smile seeing a woman 
here is a mere nothing ; but it is evident that " Missi 
bran " is more than a Tanna woman. ... I daresay 
you may often be uneasy about things which never 
move us in the least. On Saturday last a native wa>s- 
walking off with our American saw, which, of course r 
was quite out of the question. We at once told him he- 
could not have it. He said it was to cut wood, and that 
he would return it ; but we knew that if he got it 
outside of the fence we might bid adieu to it. The 



RE(, INNIN< -i WORK ON TANNA. 93 



command was given to put it down, which he did, in 
a passion, as might be expected. He scolded and 
better than scolded, arid said he would not enter our 
premises again for four moons. We, of course, main 
tained our cause, and said it was very good for him to 
come and see us, but if he did not wish to come it 
would still be good. He then said to me, " Ik amucci 
iau ? " (Do you hate me ?) I said I did not, that I 
loved him still. This seemed to cut him worse than if 
I had seemed either angry or grieved, so away he went. 
He returned again to-day, came into the house and 
again laid claim to the use of the saw, which was 
refused. On leaving the house, he lifted a little 
hammer and said he would take it. I was between 
him and the door, and just took it out of his hand, 
saying that he could not have it. At this he was very 
angry, but I began tatting and never minded him. 
Very soon he was all praise, thinking that I was a very 
wonderful woman. . . . 

September 27th. This is my twenty-third birthday, 
and no doubt you will be thinking about me. William 
and I feel very unsettled at present, as the " Dayspring " 
has not yet arrived. She may come in half an 
hour, or may not come for a week. It is very 
annoying ; for, expecting a visit from Mr and Mrs 
Milne, we had made some preparations in the way of 
<?akes and shortbread ; but owing to the delay all have 
disappeared ! Were it not that we are expecting some 
of our friends in the Mission to come ashore, we would 
not mind when the boat came. 

... On the 28th September the " Dayspring " carne 
back from New Zealand. Like " Royal Charlie," she 



94 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



was long in coming, but, when she did, there was no- 
small stir. I was delighted to see Mr Paton, Mr 
Neilson, and Mr and Mrs Milne. They had a narrow 
escape from drowning. A heavy sea was running, and 
just after the boat left the ship the rudder broke. Before 
they got things righted she took in a large quantity of 
water, and Mr Milne had to keep baling all the way in, 
to keep afloat, as she was loaded up to the gunwale. I 
was happy to see them all, especially Mrs Milne. She 
seems a lovable person. I think she and I will get on 
well. We are new to the field, and can sympathise 
with each other. ... As Messrs Paton and Neilson 
were going to visit round Tanna, we thought it our 
duty to accompany them. . . . The first place we 
called at was Anamahi, and at Sangalee the missionaries 
met with a noted trader named Lewin. The mission 
aries were anxious to get the natives to receive a 
teacher, and, when pressing them, Lewin said, ".You 
fools, why don t you take a missionary ? a missionary is 
a good thing." To his no small mortification one spoke 
out in broken English, " What for you say before, 
Missionary he no good ? now you say he very good! " 
We had to leave without gaining a footing. A little 
north of Sangalee the trader seemed a different kind of 
man. The natives were willing to receive a teacher, 
and he offered to give the land and every assistance in 
his power. At Black Beach we met another trader, 
and there we got the cold shoulder from the natives, 
who have no teacher; for they liked Charley, and we 
were to ask him. Here the wind rose and prevented 
our further progress ; and while we were lying at anchor 
for two days we saw a vessel that had been taking away 



BEGINNING WORK OX TAXXA. 



natives. She passed quite close, and two young lads 
from our station, on board the " Dayspring," called out 
to them on board the " slaver," asking them where they 
were going. They said,, "to Fiji." They were then 
asked if they were stolen or if they wanted to go. At 
this there was a long pause, and then one shouted, 
"The captain says, if we say we are stolen, he will 
shoot us." Of course, the whole conversation was in 
Tannese ; so the captain could not tell what was being 
said. . . . We reached Port Resolution 011 Sabbath, 
October 2nd. As previously arranged, some of our 
teachers and Tannese brought round our boat for us. 
They also brought news of the murder of a trader, 
whose crime seems to have been that he sold the 
musket and bullets with which Kasikasi was shot. We 
do not know his name, but we have heard that he was 
eaten. A piece of his flesh was sent to one of our 
chiefs, who refused to take it, saying he had a missionary 
now, and it would not do for him to have it. Poor 
man, he has come to a sad end 1 ... We were much 
gratified and reassured by the reception we got from 
our own people. They crowded in from every quarter 
to see us, and tell us how they had cried because we 
were not here, and how they were now rejoicing because 
we had returned. . . . 

November 9th. The feeling toward us here is 
friendly, yet it seems cold compared with the reception 
we got from a tribe four miles from us. The name of 
the village is Umaiahav. They are very numerous, and 
they have also been very bouncing. In previous letters 
I have told you of their thefts and impudence. Indeed, 
so impudent were they, that when I knew of their 



96 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

coming I either hid all of worth and got William to 
sit in the house, or else put on my hat and went for a 
walk to escape them, while the cook locked the kitchen 
door and sat outside ; thus they could get nothing to 
steal. They wanted a teacher to go and live among 
them, but all were afraid of them. However, since we 
got the lime burned by them their conduct has been 
better. One of the new teachers is for them, and for 
the last three weeks they and the teachers have been 
building his house. . . . Hearing such good reports of 
their helping, we resolved to go and spend a few days 
with them, make the door for Mailman s house, and 
give a few small presents. We took bedding and 
blankets, with a few dishes, and went along in our 
boat. In a short time we landed, and had a cheering 
reception. We then had a meeting, at which all the 
leading chiefs were present. The teachers laid out our 
gifts, in real native fashion, on a mat spread on the 
ground. Two of our people spoke, and what occurred 
that day was the means of stopping the war between 
them and our people. After receiving the presents, 
they made a return present of eight large pigs, two of 
which fell to our share, and one killed for our present 
needs, besides an immense quantity of yams. The 
whole ended in good spirits and kindly feeling. That 
night we had fifteen in to worship in our hut. All 
Saturday we spent talking to the people and buying 
food. After breakfast, on Sabbath, William set out for 
Kwamera, which he reached before seven a.m., and had 
worship with the people. Forty were present. While 
he was there I had a meeting with twelve women and 
ten children, singing hyrnns and telling them about 



BEGINNING WORK ON TANNA. 97 

Jesus. Though I was but a woman, upwards of half a 
dozen men came and listened. At eleven, we had 
service, and though we had built the teacher s house 
large, so as to serve as a church as well, not one of the 
women could get in. In the afternoon they asked us 
to go to the public square, which we did ; and no fewer 
than one hundred and twenty came to worship there. 
I wish you could have seen us. William in his clean 
white suit, surrounded by seventy men all naked and 
painted, sitting under the shade of the banyan trees, 
and I surrounded by about fifty women, all watching 
me ; if I put my hand to my face, all doing the same, 
thinking that was a part of the worship. We were a 
picturesque group. ... In the evening we had about 
twenty in to prayers. On Monday morning we bade 
them adieu ; much pleased with their conduct, and 
loaded with yams. 

. . . On December 2nd, we went round to Port 
Resolution to see the " Dayspring " off. She left us on 
the 17th, and I stood on a bank and waved my 
handkerchief till she was out of sight. God knows 
what may happen ere she again touches our shores. 
While at Port Resolution we visited the hot springs 
and other interesting sights ; but the most interesting 
visit of all was the one paid to the spot where Christ s 
banner had first been unfurled, and where, for the 
Gospel s sake, God s faithful messengers had suffered. 
" In perils by the heathen. ... In weariness and 
painfulness, in watchings often." I cannot describe my 
feelings as I saw the foundation of the church, and 
thought of the bright gleams of promise that cheered 
the lonely labourers ; as I saw the graves and thought 
7 



98 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

of the nights of agony and pain through which the 
quiet sleepers had passed, the tribulation through which 
they entered into the kingdom of heaven. . . . 

On December 17th, we returned to our own home. 
I was much delighted with half a dozen little boys who 
waded up to the waist in water to shake hands with 
me, saying, " Oh, missi, missi, we are glad to have you 
come back." 

Yesterday, Sabbath. While William was itiner 
ating I went with Kwatahin to see her husband, 
Kapuka. He is one of our most influential chiefs, and 
in Mr Mathieson s day identified himself much with 
Christianity. He has been absent from church for 
some time, and no one can give any reason for it. He 
takes no part in any native proceedings, only sits alone 
in his house. Having taken such an active part in the 
last missionary s time, we felt a little disappointed at 
his manner to us. He is naturally a bashful man, and 
that may account for it partly ; but while he is civil he 
has at the same time kept away from active efforts on 
our side, and goes naked like the rest. He was sitting 
outside of his house, and, though there was a good 
breeze, he was perspiring profusely. ... I enquired, 
Why are you so dull ? He replied that his heart was 
weak, and his body as well. I proposed to bring 
medicine and cordials, but he didn t want them, as it 
\vas his heart and not his body that was sick. I asked 
what was making his heart weak, and he said it was 
the talk of the people here, that he wished them to 
stop lighting, and also to cease speaking of war. . . . 

Thursday 23rd. Last night, just before retiring to 
rest, we had occasion to go out to the teachers house, 



d WORK ON TANNA. 99 



and were shocked to hear that Kapuka had committed 
suicide. At first I could not believe it, but alas ! it is 
too true. Two of our teachers had gone up to dress his 
corpse and hear the talk, as they were afraid of war on 
his account. This morning we got the particulars. It 
was just at sundown, and all the men were gone to 
drink their kava ; he was sitting outside with his wife 
and children and another native. His wife was laying 
out their evening meal. He refused to eat any, saying 
he was not hungry, and rose to go inside his house. 
His wife, on seeing this, requested him to give her a 
stick of sugar-cane for the children. He went in, but 
instead of giving it to her as he was wont, he simply 
threw it on the ground near her. She wondered at his 
conduct, but in an instant the report of a musket was 
heard. Naswai, the man he had left two minutes before, 
rushed in, and there lay Kapuka, a dying man. The 
bullet entered his right side and passed out behind. 
He lingered on till about eleven, and then his spirit 
took its flight. While he was conscious several asked 
him as to the cause of his conduct, but to all of them 
he gave the same answer as to me two days before. 
Sometime ago he told his wife to lift her child and flee, 
as he hated them; he hated all men, and his heart 
hated himself. About two months ago he attempted to 
flee to a distant village, but did not succeed. One 
thing he asked me on Sabbath day I shall remember. 
"When is the Dayspring coming?" and I shall never 
forget his look of despair when I told him that she had 
left for the colonies. Since then I have been informed 
that he intended to have left in her and gone to- 
Aneityum. I verily believe that had she called he 



100 AGNES G. P. WATT. 

would have gone with her and so escaped his untimely 
end. But we knew not his desire. A probable cause 
may be, that some time ago a man handed him a 
musket to shoot a lad who had been misbehaving or 

O" 

his father. Kapuka was heard to say : " Why did 
Narin give me that musket? is it really to shoot one of 
these two, or does he mean me to shoot myself?" Up 
to that day Kapuka was at church, and, strange to say, 
he shot himself with that man s musket. Alas, alas 1 
my heart is grieved for Kapuka. He was not far from 
the kingdom of God, but " many shall seek to enter in 
and not be able." . . . To-day, Mr Watt went up and 
saw his corpse. Two of the teachers dug his grave and 
had him decently buried. A row of stones marks his 
body, and the head is marked by two long feather 
ornaments worn by chiefs at feasts and used for this 
purpose. 

The chief Toko, on whose land we are living, had not 
come down to welcome us. I enquired of his wife the 
reason, and told her I was wearying to see him. He 
came to explain his absence, and brought me a nice 
present of bananas and rose-apples ; for, said he, " the 
two had been wearying to see me, and why should I go 
empty-handed ? " . . . Toko is a genuine heathen, but 
has all the savage virtues and is free from civilized 
vices. 

Monday 27th. Yesterday, after church, we went to 
see Kapuka s widow. As we came near we heard the 
wailing a sad and dismal sound. If the sound was 
dismal, what was the spectacle? Inside a miserable 
hut, full of smoke and filth, sat a few women weeping 
with the bereaved. All her body was besmeared with 



BEGINNING WORK ON TAXXA. 101 



powdered charcoal (black is the sign of mourning) and 
her hair cut as short as possible. The women made 
way for me, and as I sat down beside her she grasped 
me by the hand and said, " Missi." For a few minutes 
there was nothing but loud wailing, but when it was 
over I laid my hand on her shoulder and began to tell 
her of Jesus and the family of Bethany. As I dared 
not speak of the dead, I appealed to the living, and told 
them that as they knew not the day of their death r 
they should turn to the Lord, and that Jesus was 
waiting for them. They listened very attentively. . . . 
To-day I have had one of Mrs Mathieson s scholars. 
She comes to talk, and so I practice speaking the 
language. She is such a nice woman, so gentle and 
amiable. If she were only a Christian I could love her 
as a sister. Although eight years had elapsed from 
Mrs Mathieson s leaving until we came, she remembered 
nearly all the alphabet, and read very well. We can 
say this of none but herself. Her name is Yemeitahak. 

Thursday 30th. The last four days I have had a few 
little boys come for a lesson. I wish they would 
continue. This is one peculiarity of our Mission, we 
can get no children to worship, or to learn to read. 
They say their parents would beat them if they came, 
because they love them and are afraid they will turn 
sick and die if they become worshippers. 

Friday 31st. On Wednesday evening, or yesterday 
morning rather, a party of Aneityumese who had come 
to see the trader, and whose conduct during their stay 
here bespoke the teaching they had got at the trading 
station, left in a boat, and took away a Tanna woman. 
While they were here we got complaints on all hands. 



K>2 . AGNES C. P. WATT. 

of their evil deeds: for, said they, "You bring 
Aneityumese who tell us to give up this and that evil 
practice, and here are their brethren doing worse." 

Last night two of our Aneityumese teachers and 
another man came and pled with us to get our boat to 
go to Aneityum and bring the woman back ; else the 
village to which she belonged would shoot one of them 
in revenge. We felt much to give our sanction to 
sending our boat over forty miles on the open sea ; but 
what could we do ? This morning all preparations were 
made, and after a good deal of ado (seeing we wanted 
no Tannese to go in the boat, and having turned out 
three), she started. It happened to be low tide, and as 
the boat went through the break in the reef, a man ran 
out and jumped in. In an instant, shouting and 
wailing by fifty natives began, saying, " Don t take 
Kasien away ! let him out ! let him out ! " We waved 
and called to our teachers, and they put him on the 
reef again. No sooner was he landed than the cry was 
raised by another party, " You have not let him go, his 
heart is sore for Kapuka ; if he went it would mend his 
heart, but now he has been stopped he will just shoot 
himself." I saw there was evidently going to be a 
quarrel by some if he went, and by others if he did not. 
The boat was on her way, there was not a moment to 
be lost. I rushed on to the reef and ran on to the edge 
where Mr Watt was standing, and told him that they 
must come back. He gave orders that the boat was to 
be put in the house, feeling that it was better to be in 
one quarrel than trying to remedy one leading to two 
or three. It was a sad affair. One party saying, " You 
have spoiled his heart by not letting him go " ; and the 



WORK ON TAXXA. 103 



other, "He has spoiled our sailing." We felt quite 
puzzled what to do ; lives had been threatened through 
the stealing of the woman, and now matters were 
no better. All day long reports were coming in 
from every quarter. The one side saying, "It was 
Aneityumese who stole the woman, and if you don t 
bring her back we will kill an Aneityumese for her." 
Others sent to say, " Do not bring her, if you do we 
will kill one of that village which is requesting you to 
go/ While a third party said, " If you bring her back, 
we will kill her, and give her as food to the sharks, so 
you had better go." Nevertheless, in the evening four 
of our teachers and a Tannaman came and pled for the 
boat. Was it not baffling? However, we could not 
give it, for go or stay the threat was, that life was to be 
taken. We concluded we were better to stay altogether, 
as if they did fight, the teachers had the boat as a way 
of escape. We told them that rather than give the 
boat and leave ourselves helpless we would abandon 
the station. No more was said that night, and we 
retired to rest. About nine p.m. flashes of lightning- 
were seen, and at last a severe thunderstorm came on. 
Thus, amid the turmoil of savages and the raging of 
the elements, we saw the last hours of the old year pass 
away, and the New Year begin its course. . . . 

With much love to you all, 

I remain, 
Your daughter and sister, 

AGNES. 



IV. 

MAN TANNA.* 

February-, 1870. 

I must tell you something about the people of 
Tanna in this letter. 

As to population. When Dr Turner lived here he 
considered it could not be less than twelve thousand, 
but if you consider the numbers that have been taken 
to other lands to labour, and those carried off by 
foreign epidemics, such as measles, you will find their 
numbers much less. The district we live in may be 
said to be deserted. Eight years ago the Rev. J. W. 
Mathieson was surrounded by a numerous population. 
As the natives express it, "they were as thick as the 
stones on the beach." Now, for miles around, we have 
not one large village. There is great dissimilarity in 
the colour of their skins some are black, others copper 
like, and some whiter still. Their features, as a rule, 
are pleasing, and, were it not for the paint, they would 
compare favourably with other and higher races. They 
paint in red, yellow, blue, and black. Red is the 

For the sake of clearness, I have collected under this heading- 
most of the references to the Tannese and their customs, found in 
the earlier letters. The body of the chapter is Mrs Watt s iourn-il 
letter for 1870. 



MAX TAXXA. 105- 



favourite colour, while black is the sign of mourning. 
Some show great taste, and paint designs on the brow 
or cheeks, while others lay it on as a plaster ; some r 
again, make their skins glisten as if done with black lead. 
One generally paints another, which they do by oiling 
the skin and daubing the dry paint on with the thumb. 
They seem very fond of it. They think they do honour 
to the worship on Sabbaths by putting on an extra coat. 
They pierce the lobe of the ear and hang in seven or 
eight large tortoiseshell rings, from half an inch to an 
inch wide, and three or four inches in circumference. 
Nor are they satisfied with that, for they often link one 
into the other, until the weight is so great that it 
enlarges the aperture and often breaks it through. 
Tortoise, or rather turtle, shell is greatly valued by 
them, and was worn by chiefs and their wives only, 
until traders came and brought it within the reach of 
common people. They will give a large pig for a small 
piece. Male and female, old and young alike, wear 
those earrings. They also pierce the septum of the 
nose ; yet I have rarely seen any who wore nose 
ornaments. A few insert a small piece of wood or a 
leaf. They say that should any one die not having his 
nose pierced, his spirit will not rest, but fly about in 
mid-air. They do not tattoo ; but cut or burn some 
design on the arm or upper part of the body. They do- 
up their hair in a very peculiar way. While it is yet 
short they divide it into a great many locks, arid round 
each twine the bark of a tree, leaving two inches at the 
end. As it grows, they follow up the dressing till it 
hangs down the back ; so that one would think they 
wore wigs of small cords with curls at the tips. The 



106 AdNES 0. / . WATT. 



labour they spend on these is incredible. For days and 
days a man will sit. while another twists his hair. 
After it is done it is drawn back and tied with a strip of 
red calico. For this there is great demand, especially 
in the dancing season. The women wear their hair 
short, and pay little or no attention to it. As to 
ornaments, there is no end to them. The men wear a 
number of large white shells round the arm, from 
which they suspend bunches of leaves and other things. 
Round the neck they hang whales teeth and pieces of 
greenstone (the latter they would not part with for 
anything). They have also bracelets, anklets and 
garters of netting or any bits of bright cloth. They are 
fond of little bits of bright wool, which they stick into 
their beards. The chief passion with the women is for 
beads, which they wear in great quantities. They 
have cords, too, from which they suspend the hair of 
deceased relatives. Their bracelets and armlets are 
made of cocoa-nut shells. Married women, as a rule, 
are decently covered with their native skirts of leaves, 
but I cannot say that of the others. Full grown 
women will have on a short apron before and behind, 
half grown girls a leaf or two, and girls nothing at all. 
The clothing of the men is so minute that I forbear to 
describe it. Yet they strut about in their disgusting 
costume and criticise the Errornangans as if their own 
style of dress was of the highest order. Their houses 
are the most wretched one can well imagine. Outside 
they look like hay-stacks. A cocoa-nut leaf laid on the 
bare ground serves as a bed, and a few native bags and 
skirts constitute all their household stuff. They have 
only a hole which serves as door arid window. A few 



108 AGXES C. P. \YATT. 



of these huts set down in the most irregular way under 
some trees, with no fence around, is called a villaoe. 

& 

There the women cook their food or sit and chat * 
while the men sit in the Imarom or public square. Each 
village has such a square, arid it is generally under the 
shade of a large banyan tree. There the men hold 
their parliaments and discuss Tannese politics, hold 
feasts and dances, and in the evenings drink their kava. 
In each square is a kava house. The kava (the root of 
the Piper Methysticum) is prepared and drunk only 
by men. Beardless boys are prohibited, and women 
dare not touch it. It is a most disgusting preparation \ 
being chewed and spat out into a basin, mixed with 
water, and drank. I have only seen two cases of 
intoxication through it, although many are "glazy" 
looking after partaking of it. In the evening the call 
to kava can be heard as regularly as in some lands the 
Moslem calls to prayer. Before drinking it, the chief 
prays to the spirits of the departed for every blessing, 
such as plenty of kava and other things. They 
have sacred men, sacred trees, and sacred stones. 
Among the spirits, one presides over the sea, another 
over the wind, and a third over the crops. If a man 
goes a fishing and catches nothing, it is because the 
god of the fish has been angry. To these gods they 
offer the first fruits of all, but at times not the first 
in quality. They make this very much to suit 
themselves. For instance, if only one fruit is ripe they 
will not eat certain things lest the god be angry ; but 
as soon as another is in the market they eat all and 
sundry, thereby saying, " We have got plenty without 
you, you can be angry if you like." When the wind 



MAN TANNA. 109 



blows some one is making it, and so when it rains. 
But of all superstitions, disease making is the worst. 
These disease makers are the gods of Tanna. Here no 
one can be sick from natural causes. Some one is 
burning his nahak (nahak is any kind of rubbish, such 
-as the skin of food, bits of garments, c.). Should a 
disease maker get hold of this and burn it, it is believed 
that the person to whom it belongs will turn sick, and if 
burned until it is consumed he will die. Hence, when 
a person turns sick, enquiry is made, and presents are 
sent ; and you may be sure some rogue is always ready 
to accept them. I have seen the natives carrying 
present after present until the person recovered. 
Should he die, war is the result. Just before we 
arrived here, a great chief died, and the neighbouring 
village was charged with burning his " nahak " ; war 
ensued, and they were driven far inland, their houses 
burned and their plantations destroyed. Thus every 
thing in the shape of rubbish is carefully buried or 
thrown into the sea. I have seen a man beat a boy, 
and ask him if he wanted to die, because he attempted 
to throw away a banana skin. The disease makers 
themselves are strong in the belief, and if sick, think 
that some one is burning theirs. 

The chief spirit is called Karapanamun. They 
believe he lives on the top of the highest hill, Mount 
Mirran, which can be seen from all parts of the island. 
He is in figure like a man, has a red skin thickly 
covered with hair, his nails are like birds claws, only 
much longer, and with them he tears off the flesh of 
those who are so unfortunate as to come within his 
reach. 



110 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



When they die, they say their bodies moulder in the 
dust, but their spirits go to another world called Ipai, 
which simply means "very far oft" There they live as 
on earth, dig and plant, give and are given in marriage. 
After remaining there for an indefinite time they 
transmigrate into owls and other animals, and afterwards 
into sacred stones. As far as I can ascertain, these 
were their original beliefs, but since missionaries have 
told them of the " lake that burneth," they have taken 
up the idea that their spirits are cast into the volcano. 
With such beliefs, what use is there in refraining from 
this or that sin ? all go to one place, whatever be their 
lives. Truly, " darkness covers the earth and gross 
darkness the people." 

Chieftainship may be said to consist only in name. 
In a village of eight or nine men, six will claim to be 
chiefs. It is an old saying, that " a man s house is his 
castle," but really in Tanna a man s kingdom, is his 
house and his wives ; although they talk plenty about 
their " great land " and its great rulers. 

The men always carry a loaded musket, club or 
kawas to protect themselves. They are great boasters, 
and as great cowards. If a man wishes to shoot 
another he will lurk in the dark, or act the part of a 
traitor. Hence the constant dread. There is no 
superior law ; might is right. 

For four months they are busy with their plantations ; 
the other eight are spent in idleness and wantonness. 
The heavy part of the work falls on the women. They 
are the cooks, and beasts of burden, and should they 
decline to fulfil the wish of their " lords " they receive 
a demonstrative proof of affection in the shape of a 



MAN TANK A. 



beating with a stick, or have a knife thrown at them. 
From this there is no redress ; for if she runs away 
it is only to be brought back and get further punishment. 

During a great part of the year they are busy feasting, 
singing and dancing. Each new season has its new 
music. In this, you see, they are in no way behind 
more civilized countries. One of their song-compilers 
retires into the bush and meets the gods of song, from 
whom he receives the new dance music for the forth 
coming performance. Having acquired it, he returns 
and teaches it to those of his own village, and so on r 
until a great many know it. On the appointed day 
they have a " great sing." Many pigs are killed, and 
heaps on heaps of native food consumed. Preparatory 
to the " Taaka," as they call it, the men live away from 
their villages arid fast by themselves, so as to be neat 
and slender. When the day of feasting arrives they all 
assemble in the public square ; but before anything is 
done, the song-maker takes a gift of food and retires by 
himself to a hut, where he presents it to the gods. 
This done, he returns, arid the feasting and dancing 
commence. 

Polygamy is prevalent. I know of no case of five 
wives ; but some have four, three, or two. One is a 
rare exception. Such crimes as adultery are only kept 
down by club law ; nevertheless, they are very frequent. 
The natives are passionately fond of children, especially 
boys, and tenderly nurse the sick. 

When a man dies, he and all his personal effects, 
such as earrings, gunpowder, and shot, are buried in one 
grave. The strangling of widows is practised, but not 
commonly ; and is said to have been introduced from 



AGNES C. P. WATT. 



Aneityum. A woman who does not manifest a strong 
desire to accompany her husband at his death is 
reproached for months afterwards with unfaithfulness. 
I saw a widow beaten by another woman with a fish 
spear, because she had not begged to be strangled. 
A woman, who herself would have been strangled 
but for certain circumstances, bears testimony that 
the desire so vehemently expressed is in most cases 
assumed. They know if they are not to be strangled 
they will thereby escape the reproach ; and if they are 
to be strangled there is no escape. This woman 
(Kapuka s widow), although dreading it, did not know 
that it had been their intention until after it was fallen 
from. She said, " If it had been finally determined to 
strangle me, the men who came to do it would have 
been the first to tell me ; and how could I have 
escaped ? If I had made the attempt I would have 
been shot. But the truth is, Missi, when a woman 
hears she is to be strangled, her heart rises in her 
throat ; she is astounded and powerless." 

Suicide by hanging is very common. At a death, all 
the friends of the deceased meet and wail. This 
wailing is the most dismal sound I have heard. 

It has been alleged by some that cannibalism is a 
thing of the past ; but during our short residence three 
cases have come under our notice. One of these was a 
European, whose body was cut into pieces and sent 
round the tribes as a delicacy. They said it was just 
like turtle, which is so highly prized as only to be 
eaten by chiefs. 

They set no value on human life nor on time. Day 
after day is spent in idleness. They are expert in 



J/.4.V TANNA. 



bartering, and try to deceive yon before your eyes. 
They are expert thieves, ever on the alert to appropriate 
anything that suits their fancy ; and, although naked, 
manage to hide their spoil. I could go on, page after 
page, in this manner, but from what I have said you 
will have some idea of the people who live in this part 
of Tanna. It is one thing to read about, and another 
to be brought into daily contact with absolute 
heathenism. T see no picture that at all seems to 
describe them save that given by Paul in the first 
chapter of the Epistle to the Romans. 



V. 
SETTLING NEW MISSIONARIES. 

TO THE FAMILY. 

Ox\ BOARD THE " DAYSPRING," 
DILLON S BAY, EBROMANUA, 4th July, 1870. 

On May 30th, one of Mr Neilson s teachers 
brought round our home mail, and, of course, informed 
us of the safe arrival of our little vessel in Port 
Resolution. Our hearts were gladdened to receive 
good news from a far country after such a long silence. 
We had received no letters for upwards of five months. 
None can imagine our feelings on reading letters that 
bear so early a date save those who are like circum 
stanced. I almost dreaded to break the seal lest they 
should contain news that would rend my heart. At 
such times, I almost think I would be happier had I 
no relative or friend on earth ; then I would v not 
tremble to think of what might be happening on the 
other side of the mighty ocean ; but would be able to 
pursue my course without a care. However, such 
thoughts are but for a moment ; and when I read page 
after page of encouragement, my heart rejoices that I 
have so many who are interested in our welfare, and 
who daily remember us to Him who is a God at hand. 



SETT LI X<! XE W MISSION A RIES. 1 15 * 



The " Dayspring " was five weeks on her voyage from 
Melbourne, having experienced head winds and calms. 
She brought back Mr and Mrs Ella of the L.M.S. ; and 
Rev. Mr Goodwill and his wife, new missionaries from 
Nova Scotia. After lying at Aneityum for a week, she 
proceeded to the Loyalty Islands and landed Mr and 
Mrs Ella, ran to Fate, thence to Erromanga and 
Aniwa, and arrived at Tanna on the 28th May. She 
lay there for seven days, first on account of a gale, and 
afterwards the wind chopping round to the north shut 
her in the harbour. To expedite matters, the captain 
chartered a small vessel and sent round our goods. 

On Monday, 6th June, we left Kwamera in the 
" Dayspring s " boat. The wind and sea were dead 
ahead, but after five hours hard pulling, four of which 
I sat up to the ankles in water, we arrived in Port 
Resolution, and met the " Dayspring " on Wednesday ; 
the wind came round, and we started for Aneityum, 
where we anchoi^ed on Friday. On Monday we went 
round to Aname, and the Annual Meeting commenced 
next morning. The only absentee was Mr Copeland, 
who could not see his way to leave, owing to the 
unsettled state of his island. The sittings were closed 
on Saturday, and the next day, Sabbath, we all sat 
down to the Lord s Supper in Mr Inglis parlour. The 
circumstances brought vividly to my mind the company 
who sat down in a large upper room in Jerusalem. 

After being detained by adverse winds for several 
days, we at last, with a nice light wind, started from 
Aname with a straight course for Kwamera, which we 
reached just at dark. As we were anxious to get on 
shore, Captain Fraser gave us a boat, and accompanied 



110 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



by Mr and Mrs Cosh and two children, and Mr and Mrs 
Milne, we made for land. On our arrival, we found two 
large fires and lots of torches lit to guide us through 
the reef. We were glad to find all well. Mr Watt 
having been appointed to assist in the settlement of 
Messrs Milne and Goodwill, next day we made our 
arrangements, and again bade adieu to Kwamera. 
Mrs Cosh s two little boys were the novelty of the day. 
They were carried about in all directions, and much 
admired by a wondering crowd, who thought Mrs Cosh 
must be a sterling woman, seeing she was the mother of 
two such fine boys. 

After a pleasant sail all night, we arrived next 
morning at Erromanga. While the " Dayspring " was 
taking Mr Milne s goods on board, the missionaries were 
busy erecting a small cottage for Mr Macnair on a 
more healthy site. His present house is situated at 
the bottom of a gully, where they suffer very much 
from fever and ague. Poor Macnair was very weak 
during the meetings, he was never clear of fever. He 
is to have a change this year. We went ashore to the 
native service. The attendance of Erromangans was 
good, and the earnestness and fervour with which they 
sang impressed me much. The address was given by a 
young man. Oh, how delightful the sight ! to see 
those who once gloried in human flesh, yea, on whose 
shores the blood of God s martyrs was poured, sitting 
clothed and in their right minds, singing the praises of 
the Lord. . . . 

Saturday, July 9th. We left Dillon s Bay last 
Monday for Potinia Bay, the station of Mr Gordon. 
The wind was light, and it was Tuesday ere we reached 



SETTLING NEW MISSIONARIES. 117 

the place. Some of us went ashore and spent the 
night with Mr Gordon. He has a pretty little place, 
but there is one great want, and that is, he has no wife. 
No missionary should come out unmarried; his wife can 
do as much as he can, especially among the women. 
Mrs Milne and I were the first white women the 
natives had seen, and you would have laughed at the 
astonished looks of some of our black sisters. A few 
collected round the verandah, and Mrs Milne proposed 
that we should go and shake hands with them. I 
agreed, but no sooner had we risen from our seats and 
began to walk towards them, than terror seemed to 
take hold on them ; for they made off, clinging to each 
other as if pursued by witches. Once outside the fence, 
they turned to have another look at their supposed 
pursuers. After leaving Portinia Bay we called at 
Cook s Bay. The gentlemen went ashore and met with 
a few natives who seemed friendly, but all agreed that 
it was not a place for Mr Milne to settle in. ... 

As Mr Milne wished to visit Ifua, Erromanga, we 
called there next, but on landing found only twenty 
people living there, while the neighbouring tribes were 
at war. Of course that was not a field for a missionary, 
and so many hundreds on other islands willing to 
receive the gospel. Erromanga is now very thinly 
peopled. This is partly through disease, but chiefly 
from wars and the quasi-slave trade now so briskly 
carried on in these islands. . . . 

August 3rd. Since last I wrote we have effected Mr 
Milne s settlement at Nguna, a little island to the north 
of Efate, under the most encouraging circumstances. 
His desire was for Erromanga, but none of the places. 



IIS A<;XES C. r. WATT. 

there seemed suitable. . . . The chief of the village 
received us with pleasure, and said he would give 
any piece of land the missionary liked to choose. 
Accordingly a large piece was bought, and operations 
commenced. Capt. Fraser kindly sent the "Dayspring" 
men to assist, and, with speed, a nice little cottage was 
erected ; indeed, the captain himself worked daily. 
The missionaries went in very early, and Mrs Milne 
and I took their dinner ashore. Mission life is sur 
rounded with a great deal of romance in the minds of 
some people at home ; but were you to see the every 
day life of a New Hebrides missionary, your romantic 
ideas would take flight. It is a very delightful fancy 
to picture the new station being opened, and the 
missionary, in broadcloth, with Bible in hand, making 
known to wondering crowds, for the first time, the 
tidings of salvation. Such sights cannot be seen here ; 
for the curse of Babel has fallen so heavily on these 
people, that every island has a different language, and 
very often those on one side cannot understand those 
on the other side of the same island. A missionary has 
many months of hard study before he can declare to 
the people in their own tongue the wonderful works of 
God. Mrs Milne and I often wished some of our 
friends had been there to see us sitting under a large 
tree or in a native house, with the brown earth for our 
table, and the missionaries and captain all squatting 
around. . . . We were very happy, and all went 
merry as a marriage bell. The natives of Nguna built 
a store and cook-house, and, while the "Dayspring" 
went to Efate with some Christian natives who had 
come to assist, we remained with Mr and Mrs Milne. 



SETTLING XEW MISSIONARIES. 119 



During all the time the conduct of the natives was most 
gratifying. They were always ready to give a helping- 
hand when asked, and manifested good feeling by bring 
ing yams and other native products for sale. On the 
"Day-spring" returning from Efate we bade adieu to our 
friends. I felt for them being left alone on a heathen 
island for the first time ; and though the natives are 
friendly, one has not the satisfaction as in cases where 
teachers have preceded the missionary. The people 
can speak a good deal of broken English, as a good 
many of them have been to Sydney and elsewhere. 
They dress very much better than those living south of 
Efate ; indeed, if they were becoming Christians they 
would require no more covering than they have at 
present. I wish I could get the Tannese men to wear 
as much. We have good reason to hope for this 
becoming a large and prosperous station. Not only is 
the island important in itself, but it is also near a great 
many other islands, and has a fine harbour in which 
the "Dayspring " can anchor. 

Leaving Nguna, we proceeded to Santo to settle 
Mr Goodwill, at his own request, at Cape Lisburn. 
I would have liked to have visited the numerous little 
islands which lie between here and Nguna. We saw 
the large island of Malekula in the distance. The 
natives are said to be so savage that few vessels go 
there. The cause of their ferocity is not known, but it 
is supposed that they have been ill-used by some 
ungodly traders. We need not wonder that these poor 
heathen are savage to traders, because the cruelty that 
some have suffered at their hands is almost incredible. 
Since comin^ to Santo, wt have heard of a case of 



120 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



man-stealing and woman -stealing, in which the victims 
were carried on board, bound with ropes, then put into 
the hold, and the hatch fastened hard down lest they 
should escape. The natives here know about the 
"Dayspring," and two came off to ascertain who we 
were. As soon as they found out that we were the 
missionary ship, they waved on all the other canoes to 
come alongside. They told us not to send a boat near 
the place from which the natives had been taken, as 
the people were set upon having revenge on the first 
white man they could lay hold of. We are quite safe, 
but if the natives did not know us we would stand a 
poor chance. 

Mr Goodwill has got a good reception. For the last 
two days he and Mr Watt, with the "Dayspring" men, 
have been busy building. In a few days we will be 
leaving them. I have no doubt he will feel lonely after 
we go; he has left his wife at Aneityum, and he is 
upwards of a hundred and fifty miles from the nearest 
missionary. We can commit him to the care of the 
Keeper of Israel, who neither slumbers nor sleeps ; and 
who has promised to be ever with those who go forth 
to preach His Gospel. 

. . . The population seems large. The natives, 
however, go about in a state of greater nudity than any 
others I have seen ; the ladies dress, however, will 
not stand description. One day I visited a village. 
They build better houses than the Tannese, and have 
their villages fenced in. Everything looks neat and 
orderly. On arriving at the principal chiefs house we 
were invited in, and his royal highness spread a mat for 
me to sit on. Our words were very few, and we 



SETTLING NEW MISSIONARIES. 



communicated most of our thoughts to each other by 
signs. After resting a little, and having given his wife 
a present of beads, we bade them good-bye, and went 
to see more of their houses. 

We were beset on all sides for beads, and as we had 
given some to a woman because she was the chief s 
wife, quite a number began to count up the relationship 
in which they stood to him, so that they might claim 
beads. Going through the village, we heard a strange 
noise, and enquired the cause. They said a woman 
was sick, and advised us not to go. But as some of 
our party were anxious to see, we went. The woman 
was dead, and laid in a sort of trough or canoe. Her 
face and the upper part of her body was painted red r 
and the lower part covered with a mat. A large bunch 
of feathers was stuck in the left side of her head. On 
one side sat two women, and on the other a man and 
woman, all making a most dismal Availing. The man, 
I suppose, was the dead woman s husband. As we 
came up the cries got louder ; but on offering them a 
present of beads their grief was assuaged, and they took 
them with a smile. The quiet was, however, of short 
duration, as the doleful sounds began again, and 
continued until we lost them in the distance. On 
Santo, they do not bury their dead, but keep them in 
their houses until they decay, and then take the best of 
their bones to make spear heads and arrow points. 
The rest they gather up and bury. This is a most 
revolting practice. I wonder if, when they are selling 
the bones of perhaps their father or mother, they never 
think that some one will yet make spear heads and 
arrow points of their bones. Every day they came off 



AGXES C. P. WATT. 



to the vessel with yams, bananas, spears, bows and 
arrows. I could have bought any number if I had had 
plenty butcher s knives, which were in great demand. 

August 10th. We are now one week from Santo, 
.and are lying at Fate waiting for Mr Cosh, who is 
going to New Zealand. On our way, we called on 
Mr Milne, and found all well, the natives friendly, and 
the prospects encouraging. . . . 

AGNES C. P. WATT. 



VI. 
STREAKS OF DAWN. 

1. TO THE GLASGOW FOUNDRY BOYS RELIGIOUS SOCIETY. 

October, 1870. 

MY DEAR YOUNG FRIENDS, You will no doubt be 
thinking it a very long time since 1 wrote to you ; but 
we have so few opportunities of getting letters sent off 
that our correspondence cannot be frequent. You will 
have heard that we took a large number of our natives 
to Aneityum, so that they might see what the gospel 
had done for the people of that island. It was a serious 
undertaking, for if any sickness had broken out among 
them soon after our return, we would have been blamed 
for it. I am happy to inform you that our visit was a 
great success, and the results thereof gratifying. The 
natives returned " strong for the worship," as they 
express it, and with high opinions of the Aneityumese 
and their hospitality. They said, " We thought if we 
worshipped our food would be scarce, but instead of 
that, they have so much, and gave so much to us, that 
we were obliged to leave a great part of it behind. 
They have plenty of everything." 

On the first Sabbath of our return we had an 
attendance at worship of sixty-six. Since then we 
have not had so many ; still, there is an average of 



124 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

forty-five or fifty, which is very encouraging. Not only 
on the Sabbaths do we see the good results, but their 
general behaviour towards us has been much more 
respectful ; while they have also manifested a willing 
ness to assist us in several ways. One young man 
named Kwanung has been bringing and cutting our 
firewood for the last month, to get a pair of trousers ;. 
and now he wishes a shirt, and says after he has got it 
he will come and worship. A young chief of about 
fourteen years of age, from a neighbouring village, has 
come forward and manfully offered to supply us with 
fresh water. We feel very proud of him, as, after he 
grows up, he will have great influence, being a high 
chief. His name is Saba. He is a very smart boy. 
I am sorry to say that he has not yet come to church, 
but we hope that daily intercourse with us will help to 
break down some of the superstitions that at present 
hinder him from joining us. There are several others 
who occasionally give us a helping hand. Indeed, we 
have only to express a wish and a great many come 
forward, willing to work on very moderate terms. You 
may think this of very little importance ; but were we 
not respected by them, they would not work for us even 
for money. 

When I received the box of clothing you so kindly 
sent, I had little prospect of having many calls for 
garments. Of late, and especially since their visit to 
Aneityum, the desire for clothing has greatly increased. 
Among thirty women who come to church there are 
only one or two who do not wear an upper garment. 
These they have either bought for a nominal price with 
yams or fowls, or have worked for them. We do not 



STREAKS OF DA WN. 125 



approve of giving dresses for nothing ; we rather wish 
them to be independent and value their clothes. So as 
to put clothing within the reach of all who worship, 
we have employed them as much as we could in 
making plantations and arrowroot, besides doing 
our ordinary work. Now, I have something to tell you 
which will interest the girls, and, 1 trust, the boys also. 
During the last two months we have had two little 
girls staying on our premises, and although several 
attempts have been made to take them away, these 
have hitherto been unsuccessful. The two cry whenever 
any hint is given of leaving us, and persistently insist 
on being allowed to remain. They say they want us to 
be father and mother to them, as they love us very 
much. Kaianga, the youngest, is a bright little thing, 
about ten years old. She can now read by spelling, 
and name all the short words. I have begun to teach 
her to sew. She is the first that came to school, and 
she is still the brightest. Kauea, the elder, is not so 
bright, but she is a nice girl; she has mastered the 
alphabet, and is making good progress in sewing. 
Kaianga got a prize for learning her lessons well some 
months ago, and that was a dress to come to church in. 
This she wore faithfully until she and the other came 
to stay, when I gave each a new suit out of your box. 
After they had stayed a month I gave them others ; the 
latter are kept carefully, and only worn at church. You 
may be sure they are a great contrast to the naked 
painted girls around, with their clean clothes, their 
faces and hands well washed, nice little scarlet turbans 
on their heads, and a great many strings of coloured 
beads round their necks. They are much interested in 



12fi A<;XES C. P. WATT. 



the boys and girls in Scotland who think of them 
and make clothes for them. They set our table 
and do any little thing I may require. We have 
lately added two new hymns to our " Service of Song " 
on Tanna. We took the sheets of large print hymns 
you sent me, and cut them up to form the words. We 
have them hung up on the walls of our dining-room. 
They have mastered one, and can sing it nicely. The 
tune is " Morning Light." I will send you a copy of it, 
We have worship with them every evening, and it is 
very impressive to see them close their eyes and repeat 
the Lord s Prayer. The absence of paint, and the 
wearing of European clothes, has effected such a change 
on them that one requires to see in order to believe. 
This is the day of small things on Tanna, but, 
with the blessing of God, we expect to prosper. Pray 
for us, and for the poor benighted Tannese, and 
especially for our two little girls, that soon we may 
have the joy of seeing them walking in the truth. If 
there are any questions you wish to ask, just make 
them known, and I will be most happy to answer them. 
I feel very happy, when lonely in this distant land, to 
think that you are all praying for us. We trust and 
pray that in blessing others you may be abundantly 
blessed. 

Now I must close, as my little girls are wearying to 
have worship and get to bed. 

I remain, 

My dear boys and girls, 

Yours most faithfully, 

AGNES C. P. WATT. 



STREAK* OF DAWN. 127 



2. TO THE TREASURER OF THE GLASGOW FOUNDRY BOYS 
RELIGIOUS SOCIETY. 

November, 1871. 

MY DEAR MR MARTIN, Since last I wrote you, we 
have been a voyage round Tanna ; but owing to a gale 
of wind we could only visit a small part of the island. 
The great obstacle to our visiting Tanna efficiently is 
the diversity of language. There are evidently several 
languages in this one island ; and how many dialects it 
would be difficult to surmise. Hence our principal 
means of communication is in broken English ; or as it 
is better known here as sandal-wood English (being the 
broken English used by the sandal-wood traders in past 
years), which is very unsatisfactory. The other means 
of communication, which is the better of the two, is to 
have a native, who knows the language of the place, to 
act as an interpreter. 

At the first two places we visited, we were told in 
answer to our question. "Will you take a teacher and 
mafwaki or worship ?" "At present we are fighting, 
but perhaps after a time we will receive one." They 
are putting off. to a more convenient time, which may 
never come. The people at another boat-harbour were 
willing to take a teacher, but as none of us knew their 
language, and they spoke broken English very imper 
fectly, it is extremely doubtful if they understood what 
we said. They seemed to want a missionary, but in all 
probability they knew not what that meant. The 
truth is, it is traders, not missionaries, that the Tannese 
want. The people here at Kwamera, doubtless, wanted 
the missionary chierly for the worldly goods that would 



128 Af, NES C. P. WATT. 

-come to them, and not for the sake of the gospel ; as 
we have found in our experience. They hate the 
gospel and its messengers. But can it be otherwise, for 
the Scripture saith, "The carnal rnind is enmity 
against God : for it is not subject to the law of God, 
neither indeed can be " ? At the last place we visited, 
we found a man named Johnny Pata, who could speak 
very fair English. He told us that he had been stolen 
away from Tanna by a whaler about fifteen years ago. 
After he was some time on board, the vessel called at 
Tongatabu, where he escaped and hid on shore. He 
was picked up by King George, who took him to look 
after his plantations. There he received great kindness, 
and was taught to fear God and shun evil. King 
George also taught him to read in the Tongatabu 
language. About two months previous to our visit he 
had returned home. He has built a little church in 
which on the Sabbaths he assembles all who will listen ; 
while he, to the best of his ability, tries to tell them of 
Jesus. Through his influence, the people are anxious 
to get a missionary. Alas ! that there should be an 
open door, and no one ready to enter ; but, sad though 
it be, such is the case. We have no supply of teachers 
to spare. Our principal dependence is on Aneityum, 
and you know the population there is very small. 
Besides, she has already given out a goodly band of 
pioneers ; of whom, many have died, and even at this 
present time there are twenty men and their wives 
stationed on heathen islands. It is only on certain 
islands or in certain districts that they have any 
influence. Again, it is well to follow up a teacher s 
settlement by placing a missionary soon after. These 



STREAKS OF DA WN. ]_>!) 

men have but lately emerged from heathenism them 
selves, and unless supported by a missionary it is 
doubtful whether they will do much good. I am afraid 
the name teacher conveys a wrong idea to your mind ; 
the proper word is " pioneer." We are expecting three 
or four new missionaries next year, perhaps some one 
of them may be willing to occupy this station. I hope 
and pray that such may be the case. Poor Johnny 
Pata will have much to suffer if he remains consistent 
to his profession. Even his good example in wearing a 
fathom of calico will be a subject of ridicule. We did 
all we could to strengthen his hands, and we pray that 
the Lord, who has the hearts of all men in His hands, 
may incline some one to enter this wide door, and may 
it prove " effectual." . . . 

Shall we ever welcome to the shores of Taima one of 
those boys who bade us adieu in Eglinton Hall ? and 
shall he come supported by that very Society under 
whose training he was taught that his first duty was to 
give himself to the Lord, and, having tasted that the 
Lord is gracious, to make known to his fellow-men the 
love of Jesus ? . . . 

At present we have four teachers and their wives. 
Two are at out-stations and two live on our premises. 
Kauaneli accompanies Mr Watt to the different 
out-stations on Sabbaths, can manage a boat, and is a 
very useful man in assisting at translating. Yawila, who 
has lost his eyesight, can do little active work, but his 
becoming walk and conversation is powerful for good, 
and his wife is a very active woman ; she is extremely 
useful to me. She has charge of the Tannese girls 
who live with us. She and Kauaneli s wife assist 



130 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



me in household duties, and teach in the Sabbath 
School. 

Our newest out-station is about two miles from here r 
and is called Irumien. There Kaka and his wife are 
labouring, but it is very uphill work. Previous to our 
coming here the people of that district had been driven 
inland by a neighbouring tribe, who blamed them for 
burning nahak, and thereby causing the death of one 
of their principal men. On that account, they seldom 
came down to their old village, and when they did so 
it was stealthily. However, about two months ago r 
peace was made up, and a number have returned and 
live near the teacher ; all have liberty to do the same. 
Although they wished the Aneityumese teacher to 
remain, very few attend church, and still fewer can be 
constrained to try to learn to read. Let me give an 
instance of how much they dread the gospel and books, 
and how disheartening it is. I lately accompanied 
Mr Watt on the Sabbath, and was much disappointed 
to find only a few old women labouring away at the 
alphabet. No little girls were allowed to go, and, as we 
heard one day, they were all hidden as we were 
approaching, lest we should invite them to worship and 
they should comply ; in which case, they say, they 
would turn sick and die. . . . 

The next out-station, and by far the most important, 
is Umeiyahau. There Manman and his wife have 
laboured for two years, and not without success. The 
district is densely peopled, a good many attend service, 
and a few are learning to read. . . . We are anxious 
to do all we can for this important station. During 
our two years residence here, besides visiting them on 



STREAKS OF DAWN. 131 

Sabbaths, we have occasionally gone and spent a week 
at a time with them, so as to become better acquainted, 
and make the teacher a little more important among 
them. We have not been able to stay there for 
some time, as the only accommodation we have is the 
teacher s house, which is made of grass, and has only 
holes for doors and windows. We are thus exposed to 
the night air, and we have been advised by our more 
experienced brethren not to expose ourselves to the 
malaria. We cannot work this station unless we go 
and live among the people ; so on that account we 
purpose erecting there a small lime house in which we 
can live for a week at a time, and thus benefit both the 
people of Umeiyahau and the tribes beyond. We are 
looking anxiously for the two shipments of boxes from 
you. We cannot get on without the temporals. As 
soon as we have the materials we shall have the house 
built. At Umeiyahau the teacher and Tannese put up 
a very nice church, for which they received no pay, it 
being pure mission work ; but we do not wish to make 
the gospel at all burdensome to them. Hence, when 
they do anything for us we pay them. I fear many of 
them follow us for the loaves and fishes ; but God makes 
use of the most common things for the furtherance of 
His own glory. . . . 

Yours most truly, 

AGNES C. P. WATT. 



VII. 
HOW WE SPENT THE HOT SEASON OF 1870. 

ANIWA, October, 1871. 

MY DEAR FATHER, MOTHER, BROTHERS, AND SISTERS, 
As all the letters you get during the cool season of 
the year are only hurried notes sent by passing vessels, 
I have thought that perhaps you might be interested 
by hearing what has been transpiring since this time 
last year. After the departure of the " Dayspring" we 
had a schoolhouse put up, as I found it very incon 
venient to keep school in our own house. I then 
commenced my girls reading and sewing class. We 
read every day, and sewed or wrote on slates two days 
in the week. During the first weeks we went on very 
encouragingly. The numbers were small, but they 
came with great regularity, and manifested a desire to 
receive instruction. Just then, however, I was laid up 
with a sore ankle, which compelled me to keep to the 
sofa. As my scholars were all of my own sex, they 
would not come when I was unable to attend to them. 
From that time till this, one thing after another has 
interrupted our meetings. By the time I was able to 
resume my duties, all our people were laid down with 
influenza. Scarcely one escaped, old and young alike 
suffered, and no sooner did they begin to rally than 



HOW WE SPENT THE HOT SEASON OF 1870. 133 



they were attacked anew, and that continued until the 
" Day spring " returned. Mr Watt dispensed a great 
deal of medicine, while I was kept busy making up tea. 
Sometimes a little boy would be sent to get tea arid 
carry it to those who were unable to come for it. I 
sent it along in old fruit tins, which they could set on 
the hot embers to wa,rm. There were no deaths, 
although in some cases the attacks were very severe. 
Some came along asking for medicine when they were 
hardly able to stand on their feet, but staggered like 
drunken men ; others were quite delirious for a day or 
two. No human being, unless his heart was adamant, 
could look at these poor brothers and sisters of ours in 
affliction without stretching out a helping hand. 

Seeing these natives in health, and during fine 
weather having plenty of food with very little toil, one 
is apt to think, "Well, after all, they are pretty comfort 
able " ; but visit them in trouble, see them lying in a 
wretched hut, like Job, literally lying in ashes, having 
no bed but the leaf of a cocoa-nut tree, no kind friend 
to minister to their wants. Although there may be 
many sitting by, in all probability they will be busy 
chiding either the sick or their relatives for having 
neglected to guard against " nahak." In several cases 
there was severe vomiting of blood ; for these, Mr Watt 
used laudanum, and in each case it was efficacious. 
The three most valuable medicines to us have been 
quinine, laudanum, and English paregoric elixir. The 
last wrought most wonderful cures, and along with a 
few drops of sal -volatile was the means, with the 
blessing of God, of raising up some that were very low. 
At Port Resolution, Mr Neilson s station, they suffered 



134 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



from something of the same kind, but seemingly much 
more virulent, and the deaths were not a few. . . . 
During these times of sickness we missionaries on 
Tanna have an anxious time of it, for a Tannaman 
believes that few, if any, die natural deaths ; they must 
have been brought about by witchcraft, and the 
missionary is as likely to be blamed as any other. 
Hence we have to act with great caution, and never 
give medicine unasked. One instance will suffice to 
show the wisdom of being slow to offer medicine. 
There is a trader, a black man, a native of America, 
living near us. He has given himself out as a Doctor 
of Medicine, and professes to cure all. Only you must 
" pay the piper." He will not prescribe unless you lay 
down the " guinea " or its equivalent, a large porker. 
That secured, he "will see what he can do for you." 
There was one case in which he received either four or 
five very large pigs. It was a little child who was all 
covered with sores. He cleared away all the sores, it is 
true, by means of mercury, I think, but he left the 
poor little sufferer without eyebrows or eyelashes, and 
scarcely a hair on its head. In this state, they brought 
the child to us. We saw at once that it was dying, 
and told the mother we could do nothing for him. 
Her maternal feeling made her slow to believe that she 
was going to lose her little darling, and she pled 
with us that we would at least try. With great 
reluctance we gave a little medicine, and two or three 
days after we administered a second dose, at the 
mother s urgent request. We trembled to think of the 
result, as we knew that the infant was likely to die 
soon. You can imagine what our feelings were when 



HO W WE SPENT THE HOT SEASON OF 1870. 135 



we heard the announcement of his death next morning. 
We were afraid they might trace his death to us, but 
instead of that we had to defend the trader from being 
blamed, as no one can tell what savages will do when 
irritated. Some time afterwards we went to visit the 
sorrowing mother, and she told us that she had suffered 
much from the heathen around, who reproached her 
with having caused the death of her child through our 
medicine ; and that the trader had told them so. 
Whether the people were telling the truth or not, we 
cannot tell. We gave the trader the benefit of the 
doubt ; but it taught us the lesson still more effectively, 
to act warily in dealing out medicine among a heathen 
people. Many of them have a superstitious dread of us, 
believing that we have the power of life and death ; 
that being quite in accord with their notions. May 
God, in His mercy, open their eyes to see that it is in 
His hands all our ways are. 

Our church attendance is much the. same, and our 
two classes on Sabbath are regularly attended, chiefly 
by women. The first is like a reading school, and is 
held immediately after worship. The second is held in 
the schoolroom in the afternoon, and partakes largely 
of the character of a Sabbath School and conversational 
meeting. It is opened by praise and prayer, and closed 
by repeating simultaneously the Lord s Prayer. I 
admire a plan followed by Mrs Paton in her Sabbath 
School, on calling on one of the scholars to engage in 
prayer. It tends to expand the mind and teach them 
what true prayer is : " The offering up of our desires 
unto God." The progress our scholars are making in 
reading is encouraging, although far from what we 



136 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



could wish ; but until they can come every day we 
cannot expect great strides to be made. 

... If the sons of Adam on Tanna were half so 
pliable as his daughters, both Christianity and education 
would advance; but they seem to think that the 
worship is only fit for women, inasmuch as it requires 
them to wear a garment, and that, of course, is not 
manly. Anything mean, weak, or cowardly, is called 
by them womanly. My dear sisters, you know not 
how much we owe to the gospel, for having elevated us 
from that state in which heathenism places every 
woman. Some who are able to judge say, that the 
women on Tanna are better treated than on other 
heathen islands. Nevertheless, their case calls for 
sympathy. Indeed, the best blessing you can bestow 
on them is the gospel. Many of them, when born, are 
left in the bush to die. If spared, they are given away 
in infancy, and at an early age are sent away to their 
future homes, where they become the slaves of their 
husbands ; and if in any trifle they offend, they will in 
all probability receive a more demonstrative proof of 
affection than they relish, in the shape of a thumping 
with a cudgel, or having a knife thrown at them. 
Not but that I think there are times when they require 
a little correction, for some of them are unsparing in 
the use of the " unruly member." . . . 

About two months ago a couple came to live with 
us, at the earnest desire of the wife. Their names are 
Naurita and Yemeitahak. I have mentioned her 
before ; they are the parents of the child, of whom I 
wrote, who died. Yemeitahak used to live with Mrs 
Mathieson when a little girl, and when we first came to 



HOW WE SI EXT THE HOT SEASON OF 1870. 137 

Kwamera she alone came to school. She has told me 
since that it was at the risk of a beating from her 
husband. On Wednesday, we were about to hold our 
Prayer Meeting when Naurita came in. Seeing us 
prepare for worship, he rose to leave, when both 
Mr Watt and I (unknown to each other) invited him to 
remain. He did so, and every Sabbath since has seen 
Naurita in his place. Now he has come to live on our 
premises, and that is a great thing for a Tannaman. 
To go and live with a trader is nothing, but to live 
with us is a partial renunciation of heathenism. 

Lately we had a grand assembly or "Nukwiara" as 
it is called. It was a soiree, concert, and ball. For 
weeks the preparations were going on. The gentlemen 
were fasting, that they might look slender and neat. 
They got their wigs powdered with paint, also their 
belts and bodies coated to their heart s content. At 
the same time, the belles were getting fine new skirts. 
Indeed, they seemed to do nothing but bathe and paint. 
To-day they would have one design, and to-morrow 
another, until they thought they were perfect. For 
two or three days previous to the " nukwiari," they all 
sat up, night and day, lest they should spoil the paint 
on their faces. When all preparations were completed, 
they sent invitations to every tribe for miles around. 
From the west they came a distance of fifty miles, and 
as it was a time of enjoyment, they were all in holiday 
dress. While waiting for the feast, each one took his 
friends to see the novelties of the place, chief of which 
were the " lions " at Kwamera. The assembly lasted 
three days, and during these and the two preceding 
ones we were obliged to hold a levee. They came in 



138 AGNES O. P. WATT. 



bands of from twenty to thirty. We showed them the 
house and gave them a tune on the harmonium, after 
which Mr Watt generally gave them a biscuit. They 
were delighted, and full of wonder. They had to 
examine our outhouses, hens, ducks, turkeys, and cows. 
When done, they said "their hearts were weak," and 
didn t our people feel proud to say, "All these things 
belong to our Missi." As we wished to see the 
"Nukwiari" we went up on the last day. All the 
people were assembled in the public square. In the 
centre of the square, under the shade of a banyan tree, 
the women were dancing. Most of them had on white 
skirts trailing on the ground, and over these were worn 
short skirts and panniers in light green, yellow, and 
sometimes bright scarlet. These, with beads, green 
stone, paint and feathers, constituted the full dress of a 
Tanna lady. One chief s daughter had five long- 
feather ornaments in her hair, with her maid to hold 
them up while she danced. Their songs and dances 
are dramatical. There was no promiscuous dancing. 
While the women were dancing, the men and all their 
visitors were sitting on the adjoining logs, admiring. 
So far as we saw, the dance was as modest, if not more 
so, than our own country dances. The part that 
shocked me most was at the end, when they brought in 
a lot of pigs, killed in a sickening manner. They were 
brought in one by one, bound to poles which were 
carried shoulder high, with a man riding on each pig s 
back, and holding a number of long feather ornaments 
in his hand. We have seen some of these feathers 
twelve feet long. They are made up of a number of 
-small feathers hung on to reeds. Although there was 



HOW WE SPENT THE HOT SEASON OF J870. 139 



nothing indecent connected with these dances, they 
ought to be stopped, as they cause sickness, and, in 
several cases since we came here, consumption. 

Pulmonary consumption seems to be very prevalent 
in these islands ; and as none recover who take it, the 
natives argue the truth of their "nahak." This 
disease, they say, is caused by it ; and as medicine 
seldom does any good in such cases, they think that a 
convincing proof; for if it were otherwise, "medicine 
would be strong to cure/ Well may the belief in 
disease-making be called the backbone of the devil s 
kingdom here. Break it, and the whole fabric will be 
ready to fall. They hold tenaciously to it, they drink 
it in with their mother s milk. 

A high chief died lately, and previous to his death, 
we heard, that should he die, three women were to be 
strangled his aged mother and his two wives. We 
determined to do our utmost to prevent this, but, he 
being a high chief, we had little hope of success. 
However, we went inland to see him, and to request 
the young men of the village to promise they would 
not do such a thing. On arriving, we found the sick 
man unable to speak, but told the others the object of 
our visit, and they promised that we should be obeyed. 
As soon as the sick man was able to speak, we 
conversed with him. We spoke of our sinful hearts by 
nature, and of Jesus the Saviour, of the perishing 
nature of all earthly things, and of that bright home on 
high for all who trust in Jesus. As we spoke, he lifted 
up his eyes to heaven, and when we came to that last 
sentence, " for all who trust in Jesus," he looked 
earnestly at me and said, with great pathos, "Yesu." 



140 AGNES C. r. WATT. 



Poor man, he was unable to speak more; he grasped 
my hand as I sat on the ground beside him, and I 
prayed that the Lord would have mercy on him, even 
at the eleventh hour. A week afterwards he died. 
On hearing of his death, we hastened to the funeral, 
as we had our suspicions regarding the sincerity 
of those who promised that our words should be 
obeyed. From what we afterwards learned, the 
dying man had the same, for he could not rest, day or 
night, for urging them to " hear the words of Missi." 
At times he was unable to speak, but as he came near 
death he gave charges as to his burial, and mentioned 
particularly that they were to do our " word." Lest his 
wives should neglect to make his wishes known, he 
requested that witnesses should be brought, which was 
done. He told them they were to bury him as a 
Christian ; they were to put no muskets nor kava nor 
gods into his grave, but simply to bury him in a 
garment : and, above all, to take no lives. When we 
reached the village we found all the women from the 
neighbouring villages gathered together to weep with 
the bereaved. The body was laid out on the ground 
on mats, and a mat over it for a covering; only the 
shoulders arid head visible. Round this a great 
number of women sat, while the rest sat at a distance. 
The approach of each new comer was the signal to set 
up a fresh howling. Some of them came along 
laughing and talking till within sight of the corpse, and 
then commenced to wail. I had some difficulty in 
keeping myself from smiling. The grief may be real 
In some cases I know it is ; but in a great many cases 
it is doubtful. Each village that goes to mourn 



HOW WE SPENT THE HOT SEASON OF 1870. 141 

receives a pig, and each individual, two or three yams, 
" to make their hearts good," as the Tannese say. 

We remained until after the burial. The grave was 
dug at the side of the house. After digging down a 
sufficient depth, they cut in under the house, so that 
the body was literally laid "in the sides of the pit." 
Even after the corpse was laid in the grave an old chief 
remarked in a sad tone, that it was a pity such a great 
man was allowed to die alone. We were informed 
afterwards that the women, when they saw that we 
were come to see the funeral, said to each other : 
"What do these two mean coming here to prevent us 
carrying out our intentions ? Why did not they stay 
at home, and leave us alone ? " 

Pray for us and our deluded people. Oh ! when 
shall heathen Tanna stretch forth her hands unto God ? 

I have been staying here these last three weeks, 
under the hospitable roof of our dear brother and 
sister Mr and Mrs Paton, while Mr Watt has been 
away at Santo and the other northern islands ; and 
dispensing the Communion at Fate, in the absence of 
Mr Cosh, who is at present in New Zealand. . . . 

With much love, 

I am, 
Your daughter and sister, 

AGNES. 



Till 

FIRST EXPERIENCE OF A HURRICANE. 

TO THE FAMILY. 

January llth, 1873. 

MY DEAR ONES AT HOME, This is Saturday night, 
and I am very tired, but I cannot allow this eventful 
week to close without telling you about our trials and 
troubles. It is a week past on Thursday since we 
landed from Aniwa. As the sea was rough no one but 
ourselves came ashore. . . . The weather continued 
rough until Sabbath, and although it was dirty and 
blowing, still we had no idea of what was going to 
happen. Every year we get wood laid on the top of 
our roof over the sugar-cane leaf to keep it down in 
case of a hurricane. We generally get it put on in the 
first week of this month ; for, according to some who 
ought to know, a hurricane has never occurred before 
the twelfth of January. Believing that, and partly 
owing to our being away on Aniwa, we had not put on 
our storm rigging ; and thus were ill prepared for what 
followed. 

On Sabbath, as it was very wet, we had short service 
so as to let the natives away home quickly. The day 
was very dull, and as we were newly home we felt a 
little dull ourselves. After our English and native 



FIRST EXPERIENCE OF A HURRICANE. US 

worship we went to bed about nine o clock. There was 
a good blow of wind then, but as it was only the fourth 
of the month, I did not think much about it, although 
the aneroid was very low. I went to sleep, but whatever 
was the cause of it, William could not sleep. About 
twelve o clock he wakened me, and said he thought 
he would go into the dining-room and look at the 
aneroid. . . . By this time the wind was coming down 
in great gusts; accordingly we both rose and went to the 
dining-room, and found that the glass was falling fast. 
I took the precaution to take down the pictures from 
the walls, which I put in a chest. All our albums, 
work-boxes, ornaments, &c., I put in boxes or drawers ; 
I put the lamps and all breakables in the sideboard, 
and a large tray over my seam basket and sewing 
machine, so as in every way possible to be prepared for 
the worst. While this was going on the aneroid was 
still falling, but as we could do no more I lay down on 
the dining-room sofa. The house shook at such a 
rate, and the wind having torn off the roofing 
up at the ridge pole, the rain soon soaked our beds 
through and through. Not knowing the moment the 
roof might fall in, we thought it better to abandon the 
house to its fate and seek shelter in a native house. 
At this time my chief anxiety was to save my locket 
for the sake of your cartes, and also our albums ; but 
William assuring me that there was no danger of the 
walls falling but only the roof, I left all. We betook 
ourselves to the yam house. I took out a lot of 
cushions and, laying them in a row, made a bed for 
myself. William was groping about in the dark, being 
too excited to lie down, and at the same time adding 



144 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



to my excitement, as I feared that a tree or something 
else might fall on his head and kill him. All was 
dark as pitch, and the wind was roaring like a mighty 
cataract ; we could hardly hear ourselves speak. The 
wind came down in fearful strength, and caused the 
house in which I was to shake at such a rate that I felt 
as if I were on shipboard. Being cold and wet, and 
fearing the house would fall on me, again I made 
another " flitting," trying the teacher s house, in which 
was a good fire. I thought to warm myself, but here all 
our strength was needed to try and hold up the walls of 
the house. I once more rushed out into the darkness 
amidst pelting rain and terrific wind to make my way 
to Kaipapa s cook-house, which, being made after the 
native shape, was less likely to be blown down than our 
European-shaped houses. I was not long there until 
our teachers, having given up their house to its fate, 
came in, as also did William, wearied with his watching. 
There being a good fire, we warmed ourselves. One of 
the natives gave me his bed, and the wind being a little 
calmer, I lay down and dozed. About five a.m. the 
day dawned, and William proposed that we should 
leave the native house and go into our own and try to 
get some rest. The wind was now quite moderate, and 
I rose to go into our own house to have a sleep. On 
coming out of Kaipapa s house the sight that met my 
eyes drove all thoughts of sleep far from me. All 
around was desolation. Yards and yards of new and 
old fencing lay on the ground ; fencing that had cost 
us pounds and the natives many days work, all laid 
level in one night. On we came to our desolate house, 
with every floor swimming and the roof torn up ; not 



FIRST EXPERIENCE OF A HURRICANE. 145 

a dry place to sit on. The house looked so dismal that 
I went out to look about the premises. What a sight ! 
The teacher s house and yam-house were blown off the 
straight, the mangle-house was a heap of ruins, and so 
was our washing-house, c., &c. During the day we 
heard that the church roof was also injured, the church 
fence lying flat on the ground, and that the boat-house 
was a total wreck. Our premises were in a fearful 
mess with broken fences, fallen trees, &c. We did not 
know where to begin ; and, shall I confess it? I began 
by a good "greet." This cleared my eyes a little, and 
I was able to see my way somewhat, although, owing to 
having had no sleep, I felt unable for much. At first 
the natives could do nothing but stand and shout in 
wonder and amazement at the thorough desolation, and 
instead of trying to put things to rights, only stood and 
talked. I daresay that was the chief cause of my 
shedding tears. Soon afterwards, however, a band of 
Tannese came and, along with our Aneityumese, put 
our house in repair, so that by twelve o clock we had a 
roof over our heads once more. William remarked to 
me in the morning, " We are homeless wanderers." 
How much cause for gratitude have we when we think 
how readily the Tannese came and helped in our 
extremity. Two days afterwards we had all the fences 
propped up, and now, January 15th, our new boat- 
house is finished and the cow-house is to be commenced 
to-morrow ; and all our other houses have again been 
made water-tight. The severity of the storm and grief 
at the loss of property unnerved me very much, but 
fear as to the impression which might be left on the 
natives minds troubled me most. They believe many 

10 



146 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



can make wind, and I feared that they might blame us, 
or each other, and so lead to war. The latter was the 
case as far as blaming each other went. The shore 
people had a previous quarrel with the inland people, 
and the hurricane raised all their latent wrath. War 
seemed likely to ensue. On Sabbath we heard that 
they were going to fire on each other, so we determined 
to see what our intervention might do. Early on 
Monday we, and Kauea, who comes from that district, 
went inland and succeeded in getting the people there 
to promise not to fight. After that we hastened down 
to tell the shore people and try to get them to do like 
wise. On our return we found them all gathered 
together in the public square, and to our delight were 
informed that they had decided not to fight; because 
if they fought their plantations of yams would go to 
ruin. Thus this untoward event was brought to a 
happy conclusion. It was not fear of war that caused 
us to interfere, for we are on the best of terms with both 
parties and had nothing to fear as to personal safety ; 
but when quarrels are abroad the natives are so 
excited that we can do little among them. Just last 
Sabbath the people at church seemed so indifferent to 
what was being said, that I felt sad to think that we 
were labouring as if in vain. Now this was out of no 
disrespect to us, but just because their minds were 
taken up with other things. As I have said, we have 
got our houses and premises into pretty fair working 
order ; the natives are coming forward readily to help, 
and we will get over our loss (though native food will 
be very scarce), but I have my fears as to the safety of 
our dear little vessel. She would be near Aneityum. 



FIRST EXPERIENCE OF A HURRICANE. 147 

Has she escaped unhurt ? or is she lying a wreck on 
Aneityum ? * If she is safe you will have heard of her 
arrival in Sydney ere this reaches you. When we will 
know it is hard to conjecture. I am glad we have 
plenty of stores for ourselves if anything is wrong. We 
are expecting a mail daily by the vessel that will take 
this up to the colonies. In all probability she will tell 
us of the " Dayspring." We are sending this overland 
to Mr Neilson, to be posted there. We have not heard 
from him since the hurricane. 

Kauea is still with us, but during our absence on 
Aniwa, Kaianga was married, and owing to the natives 
quarrelling she has not been down since our return. 
She is very young, not over twelve years of age, and 
her husband is about eighteen or nineteen. They have 
built a nice European-shaped house, and have taken 
up housekeeping already. All the rest of our establish 
ment remains as it was, excepting Yemeitahak, who 
had a baby girl on Christmas eve. They carried out 
our request, and performed none of the heathen 
ceremonies usually done on children, and I am happy 
to say she is a fair, bright little baby. The fears of 
those who thought that some evil would befall the 
child, because they had departed from the command 
ments of their fathers, have been disappointed, and we 
are much gratified, as we hope others may follow their 
example. When we came home from Aniwa, I made 
up a little present for them, and named the baby 
" Nancy," after myself. The natives could not 
pronounce "Agnes," besides William always calls me 

* The " Dayspring " waft wrecked on Aneityum. 



148 AGNUS C. P. WATT. 

Nancy when alone. I visit Nancy and her mother 
several times a day, and it is pleasant to see how she is 
thriving. If spared, she will be my little table-maid 
by and by. While I am writing this Kauea and Yarere 
are busy making dresses for themselves, by the light of 
the lamp. Yarere is quite a little old-fashioned woman 
of ten years old, and sets the breakfast and tea table 
daily. How precocious the native children are ! They 
could buy and sell children of the same age at home, so 
far as knowing things is concerned. 

Friday 17th. All is quiet. Yesterday, no fewer 
than thirty natives came forward and repaired the 
church, and the fence round the grounds, also cleaning 
and sweeping the premises, for nothing. We told 
them that if we asked them to work on our own 
private premises we would, and always did, pay them, 
but that this was quite different. The church and its 
fence were public property, and that if they felt the 
worship to be a good thing, they would repair it for 
nothing. Our invitation was responded to by the 
thirty. I felt very much gratified. I boiled a large 
pot of beans, and another of rice, besides a piece of salt 
meat, for their dinner. 

September 30th. I fear you will be writing to 
enquire why I am writing so few letters this year, but 
it is no fault of mine, I can assure you. I am thinking 
and speaking of you all every day. The reason for my 
letters being fewer is the want of time. In past years 
I wrote long letters in the hot season, but then we 
could not get the natives to come to school, and had 
long days to devote to writing. On the contrary, 
last hot season we had school for five hours a day three 



FIftHT EXI KRIKXCE OF A HURRICANE. U9 

days in the week, and that broke up my time very 
much, besides I was so wearied after it that I could not 
write. With making up seams for them, over and 
above my own sewing, I had more than I could 
overtake. That state of things continued until Mrs 
Paton and family came here, and after they left I wrote 
a good long letter for the mail which left here about a 
month ago by the Mission vessel. What we have 
been doing since then I will tell you presently; and 
though it may look small on paper, it has been so big 
as to put writing out of the question. 

When the Mission vessel left, we had just got the 
pantry finished. The doing of it made a great mess ; 
what with chopping wood and mixing lime, every 
corner was more or less abused. After the vessel left, 
we commenced another lean-to at the back. It 
consists of two apartments one a bath-room, the other 
a printing-office. These two are finished, except the 
doors and windows, which William hopes to finish 
to-morrow. 

You understand that all our roofs are thatched with 
sugar-cane leaf, which requires to be renewed now and 
again. Ours have lasted since we came till now, and 
this year we are putting on new thatch. Now we have 
no ceiling on our rooms, all is open up to the ridge 
pole ; so you can fancy the mess when the old thatch is 
stripped off. Our bedroom was done last week ; and I 
can assure you that the day after the new thatch was 
put on, Yemeitahak and I had a hard job cleaning up. 
The day after to-morrow we hope to get the dining- 
room done, and after that the study and the store-room. 
We have also been getting a new roof for our school- 



150 AUXES C. P. WATT, 



house. To-day, William has been superintending the 
putting up of a cow-house. 

But you will say, what have you to do with all that 
building? Well, I will tell you. I bought all the 
thatch, and am still buying it, although I have got 
upwards of five hundred roots already. Then I have to 
see that the workers get some food, besides helping 
William with my sage advice. 

The bustle we are in with building, thatching, 
bartering, &c., has been increased with printing. We 
have spent two days last week, and the same this week, 
printing a copy of our hymns. The Society (Glasgow 
Foundry Boys ) only sent out as much of the large type 
as would print one page ; and as the small is so very 
small, and our natives prefer the large, we thought it 
better to spend extra time and give it to them. They 
are not too fond of reading, so we wish to encourage 
them as much as possible, and humour their likes and 
dislikes. I have no doubt but, if the Tannese make a 
good use of this book in large type, the Foundry Boys 
will send us out as much more as will do at least four 
pages, and save us all the extra trouble.* 

Another thing that is occupying our time, and I do 
not grudge it, is the evening school. Three weeks ago we 
commenced it, and seven outsiders came, making a class 
of eleven, who are learning to read and write. William 
printed one hymn, a translation of the Hundredth Psalm, 
and we are teaching them to read without spelling. 
Mr Inglis seems to think they learn quicker that way, 
and certainly it is the more interesting way. We have 



* A large supply of type was received later on. 



FIKST EXPERIENCE OF A HURRICAXK. 131 

tea about six, and about seven we beat the bell and the 
service commences. We have it in the dining-room. 
The new-comers are mostly boys; five of them are 
under seventeen. . . . 

But I must be done, hoping this will find you all 
well. May our God bless you all both temporally and 
spiritually, 

Is the daily prayer of 

Your own 

AGNES. 



IX. 

A GLIMPSE OF CIVILISATION. THE 
MARTYRDOM OF TAUKA. 

1. TO THE FAMILY. 

ANEITYUM, 14th July, 1874. 

MY DEAR ONES AT HOME, I will write a family letter 
now, for though I have a large mail ready for you all, 
there is still a month s news to write up. My last 
letter Avas from Aniwa, where I was enjoying myself 
immensely in the good company of three worthy ladies, 
Mrs Paton, Mrs Milne, and Mrs Annand. Aniwa, with 
the dear friends there, is the dearest spot in these seas 
to me, and I shall ever look back to the pleasant days 
spent there. We four " sistern " were three weeks 
together, and were very sorry to part. On leaving us, 
the Rev. Dr Steel of Sydney said he supposed we were 
going to hold a New Hebrides Ladies Synod, and that 
he would be much interested in seeing a copy of our 
minutes. However, we must have thought it more 
judicious to keep our resolutions to ourselves, as we 
did not put any of our deliberations on paper. We 
spent our time writing letters, playing and singing 
hymns, sewing, reading aloud, and a little painting in 
water-colour. 



A GLIMPSE OF CIVILISATION. 153 

On Saturday, June 20th, the Mission vessel returned 
and brought back our husbands. On Monday we all 
left, except Dr Steel (who was to spend a few days 
there), and shaped our course for Tanna. It was 
evening when we left, and we ladies kept on deck till 
near ten, admiring the volcano, talking of pleasant 
memories, and, 1 fear, building castles in the air. 
Early next morning we were off Kwamera, where 
Neptune seems to hold his revels, and very often 
puts a veto on passengers going ashore. Mr and Mrs 
Inglis and we two had to land, as those dear people 
were going to honour us with a visit ; and although 
there was a good deal of sea on, Mrs Milne braved it 
all, only to be an hour or two on shore. 

On landing, we found our people rather shy ; the 
cause of which we afterwards found out. There has 
been a great deal of sickness, and the devil had been 
busy. He always is ; and on Tanna he has succeeded 
in breaking up the Mission twice through superstition 
connected with sickness. The Tannese, as you are 
already aware, believe that they have the power of 
causing sickness and death by means of " nahak " or 
witchcraft, and the missionary being a sacred man, they 
attribute the same powers to him as to themselves. 
Now, as there has been much sickness during the 
whole season, they sent messengers daily among them 
selves to enquire who was causing it, and met daily to 
harangue each other in their villages. As they could 
find no clue, they came to the conclusion that it must 
be the Aneityumese teachers. From the teachers it 
passed to the missionaries, and during our absence they 
came to the conclusion that they had better ask us to 



154 A<~;XE3 C. P. WATT. 

leave. But how could they get quit of us, with our 
teachers, and the gospel ? If only we had never come ! 

but to drive us away would doubtless be followed by 
sickness and death wholesale. Some took our part, 
and some were against us. One man volunteered to 
burn our house, as he thought that would be the most 
effectual way of getting us to leave ; or he would fire 
on the boat as we were going to land. But they had 
not said, "If the Lord will." The devil overreached 
himself; for we landed in safety and found not a single 
fowl of our stock awanting, nor the slightest damage 
done. Those who were friendly before have become 
more attached to us ; having suffered shame for His 
name and for His servants. 

Mr Inglis had brought Nokoanpakou, the chief of 
the one side of Aneityum, from whose district our 
teachers come. He is quite an authority among our 
Tannese. I think his was a most providential visit, 
and did much to restore a right state of affairs. Our 
" noble" Tannese confessed their faults, said there 
would be no more of it, and exchanged presents with 
the Aneityumese. 

Now, 1 fully expect to hear that you are worrying 
yourselves more about these things than we do who 
are on the spot. The Tannese talk plenty, and are 
very brave in words, but there it ends. Not even an 
Aneityumese teacher has been killed by our people. 
But I trust in higher strength than theirs. They have 
no power except it be given them from above, and till 
the Lord will, no evil can befall us if we trust in Him. 
When He shall see fit to will it, neither we nor any 
mortal can avert it. How comforting are those 



A GLIMPSE OF CIVILISATION. 



words : " The Lord reigneth," " My times are in Thy 
hand." 

As our cow and bull have been very troublesome in 
breaking into the natives plantations, we killed them. 
We distributed a good deal of the beef among our 
Tannese friends and enemies. Some could hardly eat 
it, as they associated the cow s death and their bad talk 
together. Others took a different view of the matter, 
and said we had killed it to feed them and "make their 
hearts good." We had roast-beef every day for a week 
at Kwamera, and all the way to Aneityum on board. I 
don t know how others feel, but I could wish myself in 
Old England for the sake of its roast-beef. We get 
sick tired of the unchanging round of pork and fowl, 
fowl and pork, occasionally changing to salt beef, and 
may be, on some other island, to nothing at all. 

On Saturday, the llth, the good ship "Paragon"* 
came off Kwamera, and oh, what a bustle we had. 
The " Kurimatau " had to be killed, so as to have a 
piece to take off; and to help us forward, the natives 
came selling yams. I was quite worried to get all 
done, but shortly after dinner we finished, made all 
necessary arrangements for leaving, and walked down 
to the beach, where the boat was waiting. What a 
contrast from the day we landed three weeks before, 
when the natives were all ashamed ! Quite a crowd 
came down to bid us good-bye, and many asked us if 
we were really coming back again. Considering their 
bad talk, and seeing we had killed off our cows, they 



* The vessel chartered to take the place of the "Dayspring," 
which had been wrecked in January, 1873. 



AUXES C. P. WATT. 



seemed rather doubtful. What a waving of hands as 
we pushed off from the shore ! A few good strokes and 
we were outside the reef, and exposed to the fury of the 
waves. It had been calm in the morning, but was now 
blowing half a gale, and we were close on the wind, as 
the sailors say. As the water was coming in and 
drenching us, I took refuge under good Mr Inglis 7 
shoulder and got but little, but William and Mrs Inglis 
got a good deal. Dr Steel,, who saw us from the ship, 
said we were more like a flying-fish than a boat, as our 
bows were quite out of the water at times. Soon after 
getting on board, we became very meek, and were glad 
to lie down quietly. What a queer thing a ship is ; 
especially a mission ship. At times we have mission 
aries with their wives and children, white men from 
the captain to the sailors, black men from the king of 
one of our islands, or a part of it, to the most degraded 
of the devil s slaves. We have cows, pigs, goats, and 
fowls. W T hat a gathering, and all in a small vessel ! 
and yet, not one stands in another s way. Things are 
all so well ordered and regulated on board ship. The 
punctual bells, the ready " aye, aye, sir" to the 
captain s commands, are all very pleasing to one who 
admires discipline. 

But now I had better tell you where we are, and 
where we are bound for. Well ! we are at Dr Geddie s 
old station, enjoying the company and hospitality of 
those good people the Murray s, who do so much to 
make one feel at home. I can assure you that down 
here, where we have to bake our own bread, superintend 
the firing of it, not to speak of the thousand and one 
other duties we have to attend to, it is a great relief to- 



.4 GLIMPSE OF CIVILISATION. 157 

be where you do not require to look after the culinary 
arrangements. 

To-morrow we leave the harbour for Sydney, where, 
among other things, I will gratify you by getting a 
photograph taken, a life-like one I hope, of two real 
live missionaries from Tanna. 
With much love, 

I am, my dear ones, 

Your affectionate sister, 

AGNES C. P. WATT. 



2. EXTRACTS FROM JOURNAL. 

Thursday 16th. After dinner, saw the " Paragon " 
start full sail for Sydney. We followed after in the 
boat about six miles, and got on board at dark. I told 
the captain that surely he thought I had a weakness 
for the vessel s side at sea. 

Monday 20th. Heavy sea, head wind. Saw Mare 
yesterday. To-day, running more freely. Saw Isle 
of Pines. 

Wednesday 29th. A stormy day and stern sky. 
The captain, William and I were sitting on the hen 
coop when up came a sea and ducked the two former. 
Dr Steel conducted the Prayer Meeting, and spoke 
on "Be ye followers of God, as dear children." He 
expressed his satisfaction at seeing so many turn out 
regularly to worship. 

Thursday 30th. The wind fell light during the 
evening, and during the night we were becalmed. Oh, 
the rolling and the rumbling of the blocks on deck ! 



158 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



All day we found ourselves alternately becalmed and 
in a fair wind till about three p.m., when the wind fell 
light and we began to settle on a lee-shore. For an 
hour and a half we were drifting in. I saw the captain 
was beginning to look uneasy, and glad was I to see 
the telegraph flag go up, and soon a tug steamer in the 
offing came up. " What will you give us to tug you 
in?" "What do you want?" " 10." "Oh, that is 
too much ! " " We wont take you for less." " All 
right, take us in at 10 ! " So here we are in Sydney 
harbour. How I did enjoy seeing everything ; the 
lighthouses, and the steamers passing to and fro. I 
felt what I had not experienced for more than five 
years, viz., a touch of civilisation. Though it was 
raining hard I stood on the deck dressed in my 
waterproof and large plaid. It was only after the tug 
came alongside, and we were at anchor, that I went 
below. 

3. TO THE FAMILY. 

KWAMERA, October 17th, 1874. 

MY EVER DEAR ONES, I purpose making this a 
family letter for you all at Pollok Road and 
elsewhere. The natives are very busy with their 
plantations during the day, and the fact that they 
prefer to imitate Nicodemus prevents them from 
coming to day-school. So we, striving to our utmost, 
in season and out of season, have a night-school about 
an hour after sunset. We had it last year, and it was 
well attended, and since our return from Sydney we 
recommenced it. We have worship first, read half an 



A GLIMPSE OF CIVILISA TION. 159- 

hour, and write the other half. Our own establishment 
provides eleven worshippers, eight of whom remain to 
school ; six outsiders come to worship, four of whom 
remain. Thus at worship, seventeen meet every 
evening in our dining-room, and twelve remain to read 
and write. They are all making fair progress. Now 
this breaks up our evenings completely, so that 
Saturday is my only clear night. We have some who 
have come long distances during all the years of our 
residence here, every Sabbath while in health, and yet 
they seem as far as ever from the Kingdom of God. 
Many a time my spirit fails me when I think of the 
days and years we have spent here, the thousands in 
Glasgow and elsewhere that are praying for us, and 
yet, these bones are still very dry. Showers of blessing 
falling all around, and we like Esau still crying, " Bless 
us also, Father." If there is an Achan or a Jonah 
in our work, for sight to see it, and grace to cast it 
out ; and for patience to wait the Lord s time. 

Our goats make havoc in the natives plantations. 
We are anxious to keep them because they give us 
milk and mutton. The natives are very much annoyed 
with them, and proposed selling us a piece of land and 
putting a fence around it ; to this we agreed. During 
our absence they made the fence; but, alas! for our purse, 
and alas ! alas ! for our feelings ; no less than nixty-two 
people had been at it, and really I do not know how 
much they expected to get. We gave about 10 worth 
of goods, chiefly in adzes and axes, and yet they were 
not pleased. One man gave us a fearful tonguing ; but 
as no one backed him, he felt rather small and left. 
Public opinion was on our side, and he was held in 



10 AdNES C. P. WATT. 



disrepute.* A week later he brought a pig as a peace- 
offering, and we gave him several yards of rope. He 
was delighted, and since then he has been quite 
friendly with us personally ; but he is a very wicked 
man. His name is Misauarin. He was seven years in 
Fiji, and judging from his conduct since he came home, 
I think Tanna might bless the trader who took him 
aw r ay. While in Fiji he was involved in a murder, for 
which he was nearly hanged, and was kept in gaol for 
a long time. The natives say that his long confinement 
in prison is the cause of his ill-nature. I very much 
doubt it ; still he has said that he will never rest until 
he has killed a trader in revenge. He breaks the 
seventh commandment on every hand, and for some 
time back he has dogged the footsteps of a woman who 
lives with us. Her name is Tauka, and she is a very 
nice woman. He has tried to seduce her several times, 
and last Thursday renewed his request. She told him 
that she had joined the worshipping people and could 
not do that great wickedness. The villain ran for a 
club and struck her two severe blows on the forehead, 
breaking her skull, and ran off leaving her for dead. 
;Some people happened to come to the place soon after, 
who came and told us and her husband. He brought 
her home, and she now lies in a precarious state. The 
villain is under the protection of his father-in-law. 
Our young chief Nahi-abba is very angry about it, and 
says he will not rest until he drives the wretch out of 
the place, although it should be by war. There was a 



* The fence enclosed three or four acres of land, and would have 
to be renewed every two years at longest. T.W.L. 



,4 GLIMPSE OF CIVILISATION. 161 

murder here early in the year ; the victim was the 
mother of Houye (one of our boys). The murderers 
fled and took refuge in a village near. Soon after, in 
that village, two people died, and all the rest, with only 
two exceptions, were sick, whilst the instigator of the 
murder died of a grievous running sore. This has been 
a lesson, but seemingly not to all. I believe that the 
Lord often follows up crime by punishment, in a very 
marked manner, when dealing with heathen. In cases, 
where no one has remarked it, the person concerned has 
spontaneously said it was a judgment. 

20th October. We were afraid the above-mentioned 
quarrel might hinder the people from coming to church, 
but last Sabbath the attendance was about the usual. 
We have commenced lately holding two services on 
Sabbath, but they are lazy as regards the second. 
They have again got reeds and put a new fence round 
the church, free ; and I think a few are more interested 
in the services than before. These few, and those who 
come to school at night, with those living on our own 
premises, are our earthly stay here, and impart a 
-comfort to our hearts, in this dark heathen land. 
What could I do without the few loving ones who live 
with us ? The least in age, but not the least in love, is 
Nancy. She calls me " Tattin," a word of her own 
making. I take her on my knee at night at worship, 
and she sits quite quietly. She beats time to the 
hymn with her hands, and when the prayer commences, 
it would make you laugh to see her pretend to put her 
hands over her eyes while all the time she is peeping 
through her fingers. When the rest say " Amen " she 
gives a long sigh of relief and looks up, quite glad that 
11 



162 AdNES C, I\ WATT. 



the service is over. When her mother is cooking their 
evening meal, and Nancy feels hungry, she puts her 
hands over her eyes and mutters in imitation of asking 
a blessing. This she does over and over again until 
the meal is ready. As her mother, Yemeitahak, says, 
she seems to think that she has only to ask a blessing 
and the meal will be cooked. 

I said before, that I got much comfort from my 
home letters. I always prized them, but since the 
visit of Moody and Sankey, they have been peculiarly 
dear. Often I find myself saying, " Oh that I had been 
at home, how I would have enjoyed the hymns." I 
sing and say, 

"Lord. I hear of showers of blessing 
Thou art scattering full and free, 
Showers the thirsty land refreshing ; 
Let some droppings fall on me." 

I got and copied the words and music of "Jesus of 
Nazareth passeth by," while in Sydney. I wish I had 
a copy of the book, well bound, and in large type. 
Often I play a hymn when I can t be bothered with 
secular music. 

October 24th. Poor Tauka died on Saturday 
morning. She suffered a great deal. I had hope of 
her recovery till Friday, when she grew quite listless. 
I asked her if she were dying, and she said she was. 
When I said, " Who are you trusting to help you in the 
hour of death ? " she at once said emphatically, " Yesu." 
We trust she has gone to be with "Yesu" in that 
happy land where people of every kindred and tongue, 
who have trusted in Christ, shall be. 



A GLIMPSE OF CIVILISATION. 16$ 

November 17th. We had a severe gale on the llth 
which lifted the thatch off the roof at the ridge, and 
drenched all our bed. We didn t get to bed at all. 
William slept on the top of the dining-room table and I 
on the sofa. It reminded me of the hurricane in which 
the " Dayspring " was lost, but it was far less severe. I 
think I must be getting more hard-hearted now, or else 
stronger-minded, as I have not bothered my head 
crying over it as I did last time. It is a sad drawback 
that we cannot get some kind of roof here which would 
last, and not be damaged by every strong wind. There 
is no appearance of the " Dayspring " yet. Since the 
storm, we have been rather anxious about her safety. 
I will have letters ready for any chance vessel after she 
leaves, but really we know of no chance until she 
comes back again. If you get no mail for months, 
don t wonder at it. As so much has been said about 
the " slave trade," few vessels are seen here. 

My dearly beloved ones, I know how trying these 
long waits are to you ; but do ever strive to realize 
that we are on our Father s footstool and under His 
fatherly care. There is a " need be " for every trial, 
and we know that all things work together for good to 
them that love God. . . . 

I am, 

My dear, dear ones, 
Your affectionate sister and daughter, 

AGNES. 



X. 

-EARTHQUAKES, WARS, AND RUMOURS 
OF WARS." 

TO THE FAMILY. 

K\V A M ERA , T A N N A , 

July 7th, 1875. 

MY DEARLY BELOVED ONES, I do not know whether 
you have noticed it or not that I have written a great 
deal less during the past year. The chief cause of this 
is the long unsettled state of things. The past 
twelve months have been the most trying we have 
had since we left home, and often when I ought to 
have written I felt loth to do so, because the only 
news I had was such as would alarm you, and in all 
probability the cause of alarm would have subsided 
long ere the letter reached you. I was very dull at the 
time the vessel left in November; for owing to the 
state of ferment we had been in at the time of Tauka s 
murder, and the subsequent quarrels among the natives, 
I had a strange presentiment of coming evil. That 
night after the vessel left, Nahi-abba shot one of his 
wives in the arm. We were awakened by an old 
woman coming to tell Yemeitahak, to see if she would 
go and dress the wound. The young woman got better, 
and soon after got another proof of Nahi s affection, in 



EARTHQUAKES, WAJtS, <tr. 



165 



the form of a burning. Although Nahi-abba is our 
friend, he is, I think, the most wretchedly cruel husband 
on the island. He is jealous about his wives conduct 
while he was away in Fiji for seven years, and when in 
the least they offend him he takes a lighted stick and 
scorches their bodies. When it gets cold he puts it in 




K \VAMEKA NATIVES AXI) TEACHERS (NAHI-ABBA TO THE RIGHT). 



the fire again for a few minutes and then resumes the 
diabolical process, no one daring to interfere. He was 
very ill lately, and the application of medicine was 
blessed by God in a very special manner. He seemed 
surprised at the speedy cure, and I took the opportunity 
of refreshing his memory regarding his evil deeds and 



166 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



God s great mercy to him. I hope his spared life may 
yet be devoted to Christ and His cause, though, in the 
meantime, he never comes to church. . . . 

On the 30th December the Neilsons came round to 
spend New Year s Day with us. We invited the 
natives to come and shoot at a bottle and have games. 
I am sorry to say it failed, as the non-church-going 
people came in great numbers, and instead of looking 
on the games as mutual fun and the prizes as proofs of 
our generosity, they seemed to think that they were 
playing for our amusement and the prizes were 
payment. They sometimes wondered whether the pay 
were enough for the feats they had performed. We 
gave them dinner of native food; rice and tea, &c. The 
rice was in two basins, and, as we had lots of spoons, we 
told them they could keep them. We knew we would 
not get them all back, so to prevent them from stealing 
part we gave all. I felt rather annoyed, however, when 
I heard they had taken the two basins to the bargain, 
saying, they would do well to feed their pigs in. You 
may be sure I sent messengers after the delinquents 
and got back my two basins. W T e have made up our 
minds, if spared till next New-year s-day, to have a 
soiree in the church, and in that way only church-goers 
will come. . . . 

On the 14th of January we had a hurricane which 
destroyed our church and school-house, also much of 
the natives food. This added fuel to the flame, and 
about a fortnight after, one poor wretch was shot dead 
and left in the bush until the morning. Narin, the 
murdered man, was notorious in more ways than one. 
He often gave us no small trouble by spearing and 



EARTHQUAKES, WAKS, tr. 167 



stoning our goats. Among his own people he was very 
officious. He had killed more than one, and was 
plotting the death of other two when he was treacher 
ously shot by the party into whose hands he was 
playing. He was nearly killed two days before, but a 
friend took him away in time. Knowing this, he 
adorned himself in holiday paint and earrings, so that 
when he was killed he might be dressed ready for 
burial. In this attire he sat on the day of his sad end, 
seemingly waiting for a signal from his friends. A 
single shot was heard, and, saying to his wife that he 
must go and see what that shot meant, he left the 
village in all the style of a Tanna chief and warrior, 
carrying his loaded musket. It was supposed he went 
to inveigle two of his own relations into the hands of 
their enemies, but, as was afterwards seen, it was to 
meet his own untimely end. On the day that his 
body was found and buried, war was declared. His 
friends were strong for revenge, and most extravagant 
were the threats made, even by those who had been 
regular church attenders for years. We were amazed 
to hear some of the most hopeful talking about making 
an oven of some of their enemies. Of course their 
blood was up, and they said many things they never 
performed. There were several skirmishes on both 
sides; two villages were nearly burned, and the people 
moved nearer here. There was then a lull for a week 
or two, and they plotted a morning attack. Both sides 
seem to have laid the same plot, unknown to each 
other. They met in the grey dawn, and could not 
distinguish between enemies and friends. Muskets 
were fired at random ; a man on tho one side and a 



168 AdXES C. l\ WATT. 

youth on the other were shot, and buried in the same 
grave ; and a few days afterwards a man died from 
injuries received in the affray. Although this was the 
last blood shed, yet the alarming threats did not cease 
for long after. We had our share of them ; and our 
house was to be burned over and over again. I think 
things were pretty much this way. Our people knew 
that their enemies were on friendly terms with us, and 
from that, fancied that they would not come within 
range of our house, and so, to disabuse their minds, the 
enemy kept making our house the subject of all their 
threats. We knew this, and I must confess that I felt 
rather uneasy, seeing that, as a rule, houses are burned 
at night. About seven miles from here, our old 
teacher, Luka, had five shots fired at him. One 
knocked off his hat and another grazed his side. Since 
then, Luka stays with us. The wife of a man who had 
been killed gave a poisonous fish to Mil Rama, Luka s 
wife, and she, being in delicate health, died from its 
effects. In this state of uncertainty we slept but little, 
never knowing when the rumours might prove realities. 
On Sabbath, 20th March, we had not long retired to 
rest when, at a quarter- past eleven, we were startled by 
an earthquake. We rose and ran to the door, lest, if it- 
were becoming severe, some of the rafters might give 
way. It soon subsided, however, and as we have been 
six years here and have never experienced a severe one, 
we went again to sleep. Again at half-past three we 
had another, and repeated our exit. This was severe, 
and as the house rocked to and fro, I was half way out 
to the cook-house before it subsided. We again went 
to bed, but not to sleep. I sat all the time till 



EARTHQUAKES, WARS, dec. 169 



daybreak, and ere the morning dawned I counted no 
fewer than seventeen shocks. 

After breakfast, as Mr Watt was engaged, 1 was 
acting the part of architect in the erection of a new 
grass church ; and the girls were in the pantry washing 
the breakfast dishes. I had just been putting in marks 
where the windows were to be, when suddenly the 
ground began to shake and the trees to rock violently. 
I ran home as best I could and found the girls in a 
great state of anxiety, as so many dishes had been 
broken. This was at half-past seven. We had all 
resumed our duties, and I was over at the church again : 
the few who were working were getting on well ; when, 
without any notice, a volley of shots were fired toward 
us. I saw several bullets fall into the sea, but the 
excitement was so great that I could not make out 
where they came from. I went up to where Mr Watt 
and the girls were and we went into the house. Very 
soon, thereafter, every native in the place was off in 
the direction from which the bullets came. That was 
the final volley, and seems to have been levelled at no 
one, but only fired into the air; and, although no- 
formal peace has been proclaimed, there has been no- 
more war. I cannot say the same about the earth 
quakes. They occurred at all hours and in all weathers, 
and gave no warning. Between the 27th of March and 
the 7th of June I have twenty-seven marked in my 
journal. They came at irregular intervals. On some 
days there would be three and four, then perhaps none 
for a week. After a day when we had one or two, I 
never went to bed, but lay on the dining-room sofa, 
with the door unlocked, so as to get out quickly ; for if 



HO AGNES C. P. WATT. 

you are nervous and shaking with the house rocking, 
it is a difficult thing to unlock the door. Again, after 
a few days had intervened, I took courage and went to 
bed. If there had been none all day, we tried to 
persuade ourselves that we would have none till 
morning. Strange to say they often occurred at eight 
or nine o clock, and served to put sleep out of my head 
at least. 

Between hurricanes and wars and earthquakes, this 
has been by far the most trying season we have had. 
As yet, we have suffered little from the earthquakes 
compared with those on other islands. On the first 
night, one of the earthquakes was accompanied by a 
tidal wave, of which we knew nothing until the next 
day. At Erromanga, the sea rose and broke away a 
stone wall four feet thick, washed up close to Mr 
Robertson s door, and I believe he, with his wife and 
child, took shelter in a cave till morning. On Aniwa, 
the tidal wave ran far inland and left a great many 
fish, among which was a fine turtle. The Patons kept 
blankets on the verandah, so that when they rushed 
out they would not be cold. At Mr Inglis station on 
Aneityum the tidal wave broke through the front door 
and went through the house. Mrs Inglis was sick, and 
happened to be up and dressed. Hearing the natives 
call that the earthquake had brought up the sea, she 
escaped in safety. Mr Inglis was behind her in 
fleeing, and the sea was already up to his waist. It 
was only by the assistance of the natives that he was 
saved from being carried off his feet. At the other 
side of Aneityum there is a small island, on which has 
been a trading station for twenty years. The sea broke 



EA R THQ UA KES, WA R8, <bc. 1 7 1 



down all the houses on it, and the inhabitants were in 
great danger. Several houses, and the stone church on 
Aneityum, were rent. But we have to sing of mercy as 
well as of judgment. A trader s house, within two 
hundred yards of us, was smashed to atoms by the 
January hurricane, while we escaped, having only our 
thatch damaged. . . . 

Notwithstanding war, excitement, and hurricanes, we 
succeeded in getting our new buildings finished and 
the ground laid out in good order. While the natives 
were running off day after day to fight, their missionary 
was busy correcting and printing the " Parables of our 
Lord," and the four little girls and I kept up our daily 
sewing school. Some of our teachers seem to have 
despaired of the power of the Gospel on the Tannese, 
and expressed freely their opinion of our foolishness in 
persisting to finish our premises or print books. They 
said, "These are times to flee, not to build." Our 
reply was, " You can flee if you like ; as yet, we see no 
cause to flee." And so here we are, as safe as ever, and 
in some ways we never had more encouragement in our 
work. Like the walls of Jerusalem, our building was 
done in troublous times, in which, owing to the 
excitement among the natives, we could do no Mission 
work. I often said, it was fortunate we had it to do, 
otherwise we would have been idle. If the mind is 
distracted, it is hard to study, but not so hard to do 
manual work. 

We have had evening school more or less regularly 
for two years. Our experience here has been that the 
natives turn out then, when they will not look near 
during the day. About two years ago a few boys 



AUXES C. />. WATT. 



joined, but a boat from Aneityum came and took them 
away to labour for a trader there. Those who were left 
came only occasionally. After Tauka s murder they 
were afraid to come, so only those living on our own 
premises attended. The excitement was abating, and 
they were beginning to come back, when Narin s 
murder led to war and so stopped their learning once 



more. 



However, in the end of March the boys came a great 
deal about our premises and bothered us much coming 
into the house and touching everything. As a punish 
ment, we told them that every one who came in must 
take a lesson on the alphabet, and whenever tired of 
learning was to go out, as this was our private house 
and we would not allow stragglers. One boy named 
Yako took quite a fancy to his punishment and came 
day after day for his lesson, and hearing that we had 
evening school came to it also; others followed. In 
order to induce them to attend more regularly, we keep 
a roll which is called nightly. I offered a prize for 
regular attendance, and the thing most valued is a good 
fishing line. The number on the roll is nineteen, and 
the average attendance fifteen. We ring the bell at 
half-past six, have worship, teach a passage of Scripture. 
I read and they repeat a new verse every week. Those 
already committed to memory are, " Behold the Lamb 
of God " ; " God so loved the world " ; " Seek ye first 
the kingdom of God," &c. We have now begun to 
learn the Ten Commandments. After that the roll is 
called and the reading commences. We teach by 
syllables, and read until half-past seven, then those who 
write get their copy-books and write till eight o clock. 



EARTHQUAKES, WARS, die. 173 



On Saturday night we have only worship and singing 
of hymns ; and on Sabbath, worship and a Bible story. 
We have also a mid-day school, but the attendance is 
very irregular, somehow or other they cannot be induced 
to come in daylight; not Nicodemus-like for fear of the 
Jews; but just because there are so many other things, 
such as work and play, to take up their attention 
during the day. We also give a prize when one 
masters a given task. Four boys got clasp knives, 
and five girls necklaces of red and blue beads. A 
goodly number wait for reading after service on 
Sabbath, but alas ! some have been so learning for over 
six years now and cannot read yet, and never will at 
the present rate of progress. 

Our out-stations at present are few and unoccupied. 
.As I have already said, old Luka has had to leave his 
station after being fired at. The natives there were 
very unkind to him, and he was too far off for us to 
help him. Meiyahau is also vacant, as Manman has 
been forced to leave on account of his health. He had 
a very severe illness in January last ; indeed, we almost 
despaired of his recovery. He has since returned 
home, whether permanently or for a time we do not yet 
know. He was our most energetic teacher, and had by 
far the most missionary spirit. He held service at 
several places besides the one at which he was located, 
and was very much liked by the people. 

. . . The Aneityumese are somewhat weary of 
well-doing on Tanna. They have told the people what 
is right and what is wrong, and, because they have not 
obeyed their word, they think them unworthy of being 
taught. They fear the Tannese, who are very rude; 



174 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



for although their knowledge is very limited, I have 
even heard a little boy criticise a teacher forty years 
old. 

Some time ago, we went to see a place called Ifefe, 
where in heavy rain there is a waterfall. The natives 
profess to jump from the top into the pool below, a 
height of fifty feet. There was a good depth of water 
in the pool, yet none were brave enough to show their 
jumping powers. The water was too shallow, they 
said, so we had to content ourselves with a sight of the 
place from which they ought to have jumped. The 
natives are very much given to exaggeration, and I 
doubt if ever they did it. ... 

I must not forget to tell you of Kauea, who, although 
owing to the surrounding darkness is obliged to be one 
of two wives, has never joined in any heathen dance, 
and never returned to the custom of wearing heathen 
ornaments, nor of painting her face. Lately, when all 
the women in the district were dancing they called on 
her to join. She gave them an evasive answer ; but 
fearing their entreaties might prevail, she went twice 
into the house and prayed. She told me that after she 
prayed the second time she felt strong, and would not 
have yielded ; but the temptation was not repeated. 
She is now teaching a few to read every morning. She 
has been a great comfort to us, and makes us feel that 
our labour has not been in vain. 

When sick the natives try all means in their power 
to escape death ; still, although they fear death, they do 
not fear the after consequences. Hence the frequent 
attempts at suicide. They generally take care to be 
seen. The men shoot themselves, and the women 




WATERFALL, IFKFE, TANNA. 



176 A<;NES C. P. WATT. 

either climb a cocoa-nut tree and throw themselves down 
or hang themselves ; very often for paltry quarrels. 

Perhaps it is the heat of the climate that leads to the 
custom of every individual man, woman, or child having 
their separate things, such as house, bed, blanket, or 
axe. In a house there was but one blanket, which 
belonged to the wife, who is a regular attender at 
church ; she had got it from us in payment for some 
work done. Her husband took a fancy to it and took 
it over to his side of the fire. For this his better half 
took him to task ; but he retorted that he had both the 
will and the power to strangle her, and so saying, drew 
a small rope to him and began to trifle with it. All of 
a sudden she snatched it from him, saying, " I 11 save 
you the trouble, and deprive you of the honour of 
strangling me/ In less time than it takes me to write 
this, she tied one end to the rafters of the house, made 
a noose of the other end and put it over her head. 
Had not her lord and master cut the rope smartly, no 
doubt she would have died. 

If a wife wishes to chop some wood she must either 
take her own axe if she has one, or else break the 
sticks over a large stone. 

Among the many bad traits of character among the 
Tannese there are a few good ones. Whatever food 
one gets he divides among those around him. Even 
little children are taught to share their things with 
others. Those who do not are called mean. Meanness 
is considered one of the cardinal vices, and liberality 
one of the cardinal virtues. If a native has been out 
all day, and has cooked, and is just about to eat the 
only bite of food in the house, he will offer it to a 



EARTHQUAKES, WARS, rfr. 177 

neighbour if he happens to come in, and if it is accepted 
he will go supperless to bed, rather than be called 
stingy. You will rarely meet a native woman who 
has not her bag on her arm, in which she carries 
whatever cooked food she has. She offers it to those of 
her friends whom she meets, and if after having given 
it all away, she meets another, she opens the bag to let 
her see she is speaking the truth. Hence if they want 
to keep anything for themselves they have to deny that 
they are in possession of it. Need I say they do not 
think lying a sin ? With regard to stealing. If one 
steals and is not found out, he is praised for his 
cleverness. Alas ! if he is found out, he is " a thief." 

If I had to study my writing and composition, it is- 
rarely I would write, for endless are the interruptions I 
have had in the scribbling of this lengthy epistle. I 
meant to have a nice quiet afternoon to-day ; but, as usual, 
we have had visitors. I have just to look as pleasant 
as possible to our intruding friends, who walk in 
without asking leave. While writing the first part of 
this page two friends came in. They chatted away 
quite freely, to the extent of putting an end to my 
writing, and paid no attention to the many hints I 
gave as to the desirableness of being left alone. I at 
last took refuge in flight, and paid a visit to the goat- 
house and saw all our little kids. On my return, I 
found that the object of my absence had been gained. 
But as I fancy you will agree with me that I have 
written enough, I will add no more. 
I remain, 

Yours affectionately, 

AGNES C. P. WATT. 
12 



XL 
RAIN-MAKING. 

ANIWA, August 24th, 1876. 

MY DEAR FATHER, MOTHER, BROTHERS, AND SISTERS, 
. . . After the " Dayspring " took away our mail for 
Sydney in the end of December, we had very dry 
weather, and the natives became much concerned about 
their crops. As they believe in their power of making 
rain, they set about it. I have not seen them do it ; 
but I know they have sacred stones, which they use 
somewhat in this manner. When rain is wanted the 
rain-maker takes a canoe, puts it somewhere in the 
bush, and fills it with water ; fresh water, it must not 
be salt. He proceeds inland to some known pool, 
accompanied by several others, who, though ordinary 
men, want rain, and help him. Each makes a cocoa-nut 
leaf basket, into which he puts leaves of certain trees 
and plants (I am not aware that any of them are from 
fruit trees), such as stone palms, &c., and a small 
banana plant. When they think they have enough, 
taking a few leaves, or a branch of kava, they go direct 
to the aforesaid pool, where the rain-maker commences 
his incantations. Taking a basket of leaves, he calls on 
his departed father and friends and asks them to join 
him and his party in making rain, and then places the 



RA IN- MA KING. 1 79 



basket in the pool. He does the same with each basket, 
until he has placed them all in the water. He then 
rolls a large stone over them to keep them down. This 
done, he places the twig of kava on a ledge of earth or 
stone near. He calls on his departed relatives to note 
the fact of his having brought kava for them to drink, 
and enjoins them to see that even now the clouds may 
darken the sky, and that by the time they reach home 
the first drops may be falling. The whole party then 
start for home. On the way the rain-maker suddenly 
breaks from the party, and following a bypath, 
gathering certain leaves as he proceeds, he carries them 
to the place where he had previously put the canoe full 
of water. 

On reaching it he puts in the leaves he has gathered 
and the sacred stones, only reserving one or two. With 
.a prayer to his departed relatives he returns to the 
village. That day he must not eat anything that has 
been cooked in an oven ; only such things as have been 
roasted on an open fire; nor may he bathe in or even 
touch the sea. I knew once of our young chief Nahi- 
abba being under some such vow when a vessel was 

o 

seen coming. He was very anxious to get on board for 
some tobacco, and in order to do so, he caused the boat 
to be pulled up so far on the beach that he could step 
in without even wetting the soles of his feet. Some of 
the more scrupulous objected even to that, suggesting 
that if the boat were leaking he might touch it in 
that way. 

But to return to the sacred man. While he has 
been thus employed, a little boy or girl has been 
fishing. What has been caught is cooked, and the 



180 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



rain-maker presents it on an altar, formed of two or 
three reeds, set up near the enchanted canoe. He 
again calls the attention of his departed sires to the 
food he has prepared for them, and invokes their help. 
The food is generally the poorest possible. Unripe 
fruits, miserable fish, or the worst parts of a pig are 
selected for the altars of the gods. Nor are these gods 
the spirits of long ago ; many of them are men who 
were living in our own day. It would appear that as 
soon as a man dies he is worshipped. The power of 
rain-making is hereditary ; and, as all a man s brother s 
children are his children, there is seldom difficulty in 
finding a successor. In the evening the rain-maker,, 
having drunk his kava, spits, crows in his usual way, 
and calls on the gods to send rain. Next morning, a 
while before day, he is up and away to visit his baskets- 
in the pool. He removes the stone, stamps the baskets 
down a little, replaces the stone, and returns. Although 
he should see no signs of rain he will go on from day 
to day, calling on his gods over his kava, putting in 
new leaves now and again, and replenishing the altar. 
If it seems likely to rain soon, he puts the remaining 
stones into the canoe, and when the rain has actually 
begun to fall he goes to his kava with a glad heart ; 
praises the gods for assisting him, and appeals to his 
fellow-drinkers, if he is not good to them in causing 
such a plenteous rain to descend on their crops. To 
all this they assent most emphatically. 

But I think I hear you saying, " If there is no rain, 
does he not feel put out ? " Not a bit. If his rain 
charm does not succeed, it is because some one is 
making such doses of sunshine, and perhaps messages 



RAIN-MAKING, 181 



to that effect will be sent out in different directions. 
If no one will own that he is making sunshine or wind 
to keep away the rain, then they are telling lies, and 
doing it secretly. I have known cases where the rain 
did not fall for weeks, and yet their confidence in their 
power did not slacken in the least. We have tried 
every argument to persuade them of their impotence, 
and taunted them with their failure ; all to no effect. 
The furthest that they will go is to say that it is wrong 
to make it ; but as to their power they have no 
doubt. . . . 

On New-year s-day we had a * Soiree." At about 
ten a.m. the drum was beaten, and we assembled in the 
church. After singing a hymn, and prayer, several 
speeches were made by teachers and Tannese. Mr 
Watt addressed them on several subjects of a temporal 
and secular character, which he thought hardly fit for 
Sabbaths. After the speeches, they were served 
with as much rice, goat-mutton, pine-apples, and rose- 
apples as they could eat, and as much tea as they could 
drink. The tea would not hurt their nerves, as it was 
very weak ; but there was plenty of brown sugar in 
it, which is the principal thing. When I say they 
got. as much as they could eat, I mean they got a 
sufficiency ; for I really do not know the limit of their 
eating. They can eat an immense quantity of food at 
a time ; and on the other hand they can do with very 
little. The power of endurance in them is very strong. 
I have seen even children go for a whole day without a 
morsel of food. At work, or on a journey, they do not 
care to stop for food, not even to eat what they may 
have brought with them. They prefer to go on, and 



182 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



then fill up and go to bed. I often wonder how they 
can sleep comfortably after such heavy suppers of rich 
cocoa-nut and banana, or cocoa-nut and yam-puddings, 
or taro and pork. Of the last, they eat ravenously. I 
have known one man sit down to a leg of pork, without 
either yam or taro to eat to it, arid consume the greater 
part of it, go to bed, and next morning resume his 
tearing at it (for they have neither knives nor forks), 
and leave little or none. 

The past hot season has been a very pleasant one ; 
fine clear weather and few earthquakes, arid the 
absence of war in our immediate neighbourhood. 
About two miles from us there has been a deal of 
firing, through which several of our parishioners have 
been wounded, and two have died of their wounds. It 
did not affect what we may call " our people," except 
that every other day they went to assist in the 
shooting, and came home laden with spoils. 

In this late war I saw that should it reach us, I 
might well say, " Save me from my friends " ; for as 
soon as a district is vacated in time of war, whatever 
has not been carried off in the flight is a prey to all ; 
and generally to your allies. In passing through the 
village, they will do more in the way of plundering 
than the enemy. Fowls, dogs, cats, pigs, yams, &c., are 
all taken ; and yet, after all, though you have had the 
worst of it, when there is a cessation of hostilities, you 
have to give them a large pig and other things for 
fighting for you. Of course, the tables will be turned 
some day, when you find yourself the ally, helping 
yourself to whatever comes to hand, and getting a large 
pig for your valour. 



RAIN-MAKINd. 183 



Although the season has been a pleasant one, it has 
been the hottest since we came to the islands. The 
perspiration poured off us from day to day, and we felt 
quite unable for work. We both had wonderful health 
until the 25th of March, when William took a severe 
vomiting of blood, which left him very weak. It came 
on in the evening and continued until nine o clock, 
when he got rest. Abel, our cook, stayed with me 
until he got relief; and neither Yemeitahak nor the 
girls would go to their own houses till they knew he 
was out of danger. Next morning, old Luka and 
Kauaneli came. It was quite affecting to see how they 
sobbed and cried when they shook hands with him. 
He had scarcely recovered strength when, on the 
1st April, I took ill with fever and ague of a very 
severe type. My head ached for days ; and although 
William gave me double doses of opium, I could not 
sleep. This continued until the 17th, when we went 
round to Port Resolution in our boat, hoping to catch 
the " Dayspring," and go north with her to Nguna, to 
see if the change would do me good. The "Dayspring," 
however, was gone, but a home mail cheered me up, 
and I grew stronger every day. There was a great 
deal of sickness among the natives. Nearly every one 
was laid aside for a time, and some were brought to the 
very brink of the grave. 

You know their notions of "nahak" and "foreign 
disease," for which the missionary, being a sacred man, 
often gets blamed. I am happy to say that in this 
instance they did not blame us, but showed their 
confidence by coming for medicine, which they after 
wards paid for. With regard to children, they have 



184 AGNES G. P. WATT. 



unbounded confidence in my skill. Many a dose of 
castor-oil have I administered to the little black things, 
who often manifest a determined opposition to my wish 
that they should open their mouths for the nauseous 
dose. 

So remarkable were some of the cures that we could 
only say, " This is of the Lord." One woman who had 
been ill for some time was taken for dead, and had her 
grave clothes put on. She was laid out to be wailed 
for, but as the pulsations of the heart continued, some 
proposed that they should come to us for medicine, 
though others pooh-poohed it. Toko, one of the chiefs, 
came himself. When he told me how she was, and 
how they had dashed cold water on her face in vain, I 
said it was no use sending medicine. He was very 
importunate, so I gave him half a glass of raspberry 
vinegar, with a little extra acid in it to make it irritate 
the throat. (She had a cough, and I understood that 
the phlegm had gathered in her throat.) I told Toko 
to give her that if possible, and if she opened her eyes 
and could swallow, he was to come for other medicine, 
which he did the next day. He said that our medicine 
had made her live, and soon she would be down to see 
us. In a week she was able to walk about, and now 
she is as strong as ever. He showed his gratitude by 
giving us a pig. . . . 

I am, 
Yonr loving daughter and sister, 

AGNES. 



XII. 
THOUGHTS ABOUT HOME-GOING. 

TO HER PARENTS. 

KWAMEBA, TANXA, 

June 22ml, 1878. 

MY DEAR FATHER AND MOTHER, . . . Truly it never 
rains but it pours, for from the middle of October until 
the end of April I never saw a letter, and since then 
you know what a budget I have received from home, 
besides thirty from colonial and island friends. All 
your letters were intensely interesting, and I will 
answer them individually, though this letter to the 
heads of the family may be looked upon as the letter. 
When the first lot came in April, after such a long 
silence, I could not trust myself to read my mail before 
any one, and so went to my room, where I could laugh 
and cry as I saw fit, or as my highly-strung nerves 
might cause me to do. ... 

This letter will convey news to you which will occasion 
you both joy and sorrow. In your last letter, my dear 
father, you say you cannot think of my coming 
home only to leave again. That I cannot altogether 
understand ; for ten years ago you parted with me to 
go to an unknown region, and that, too, when my 
husband and I were to be supported by a church 



186 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



which neither knew us nor our mission, at a salary of 
120 to cover all our expenses. I can assure you I 
sometimes felt homeless then. But now we have a 
comfortable house, a salary of 200 a year from a 
church which gave us such a welcome two years ago. 
We have the respect of all the tribes by whom we are 
surrounded ; and many other blessings. I think it 
ought to be less hard to part, with me now. True, our 
second parting is more likely to be our final one on 
earth ; but why, if we believe in the recognition of 
friends in our Father s house, nay, more, of our love 
being perfected towards each other there, why cannot 
we part and tryst to meet there ? You are no nearer 
Home in Glasgow than we are on Tanna. If it be the 
Lord s will, I hope to lie in a forest grave ; for I have no 
desire, indeed, I dread being buried in a crowded 
graveyard. Did I think my coming home would pain 
you because of the parting, I would forego the hope on 
which my heart has been set all these years ; for 
although it will be like plucking out a right eye or 
cutting off a right hand to sever myself again from 
home, still I believe that afterwards I will be only glad 
that I have again seen your faces in the flesh. Our 
Great High Priest, who wears our nature arid knows, 
our every feeling, who gave us strength to part and 
live and labour so long separate, will give us parting 
grace again when the time comes. 

I am almost afraid to say we are coming home. It 
seems too good to be true, and " there s many a slip 
twixt the cup and the lip." I suppose you feel like me, 
that you wont believe it until you see it. Well, well, 
so let it be ! We have got leave of absence from the 



THO UGHTS A BO UT HOME- GOING. 1 87 

New Hebrides for sixteen months, and if all goes well 
we will spend next summer with you. We are afraid 
to come home earlier than April or May, lest the 
sudden change from the tropics might affect our good 
health. William especially is very " cauldrife." 

I cannot get over the thought of how good God has 
been to us, seeing we are all spared for these ten long 
years, and such a large family. Some day there will be 
changes, but wont it be grand to be all gathered Home 
safe, never to part ? . . . 

I am sorry I failed to tell you how well all the 
things had come out, but in writing one is apt to miss 
something if it is not noted just at the time. We 
notice omissions and repetitions in the letters we 
receive, and I suppose you do the same. But though 
correspondence is unsatisfactory, what would we do 
without it ! I see the want of it among the natives. 
When one of their number goes to the colonies he is 
nearly as good as dead until he returns. It is no 
uncommon thing for a father to hear of his son s death, 
which plunges him into sorrow and makes him long to 
be revenged on the supposed disease-maker. The 
family goes into mourning, cuts down trees, kills pigs, 
and gives presents. Soon after another report comes to 
the contrary, which also is believed, causing quite a 
revulsion of feeling. Perhaps by this time the man s 
wife has been given to another, she is taken from him 
to await her former husband s return ; and so on, 
until either the one report or the other be verified by 
the young man s return, or his wages being sent on by 
some one else. 

The Neilsons have had a trying time of sickness. The 



188 AGNES O. P. WATT. 

little twins which were born about Christmas had poor 
health, and are now for ever free from sorrow. So the 
Neilsons have now three infants graves on Tanna. 
They came round and stayed with us for a few days 
after Charlie s death. The boys and girls were much 
delighted with Tommy and Jessie. 

After they left I made preparations to receive my 
dear sisters Mrs Paton and Mrs Milne. Owing to a 
terrific hurricane which occurred in January, near Fate 
and Nguna, the "Dayspring" was detained until Mr 
Macdonald s house was made habitable. While in the 
colonies he got a letter from Mr Milne informing him 
that his house was blown over. The first intimation 
we received of the hurricane was when the " Dayspring " 
came down from the colonies in April. The two ladies 
and their children and I enjoyed ourselves immensely 
for a fortnight. . . . 

As to our proposed transference to Aneityum, not 
withstanding that the two churches were agreeable, 
the Synod disapproved. . . . They said that were we 
to leave Tanna the island would go down ; nobody could 
fill our places there ; that Mrs Watt (not Mr Watt, mind 
you) had the true ring of a Tannese linguist ; and to 
take us off Tanna would be to write Ichabod over it, 
&c., &c. . . . I would rather go to Aname than see it 
left without a missionary ; but if we long for fame and 
the praise of the churches, this is the sphere. . . . 

I remain now, as ever, 

Your loving daughter, 

AGNES. 



XIII. 
BACK TO TANNA. 

TO HER FATHER. 

KWAMERA, TANNA, 

27th August, 1880. 

MY DEAR FATHER, . . . We stayed two nights with 
Mr Dean in Sydney, and again resumed our watery 
way, not in a big Orient steamer, but in the wee 
" Day spring," which was lumbered up with tanks, wood 
for houses, new boats for missionaries, mission-boxes, 
and stores, maybe for starving folks. Hearing of the 
hurricane made us very anxious regarding our friends 
in the islands. 

On leaving Sydney, we set out upon a heavy sea ; 
and how the little thing did pitch ! We all made for 
our bunks at once, and but for the kindly visit of the 
captain to see how we were getting on, or to reproach 
us in sport for being bad sailors thus to give in to 
Neptune after having come all the way from England, 
we lay in a state of silence and semi-seasickness for 
two or three days. Gradually we began to crawl on 
deck, and although it was rough weather, there was 
no rain, so we spent a good deal of time there. On the 
whole, it was a dull voyage. The sea was rough, the 
vessel was heavily laden, and we made slow progress. 



190 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



Mr Mackenzie, who had gone up for his health, was very 
ill, so it was with joy that we saw dear old Aneityum 
again. We were detained there for a week with adverse 
winds and a rough sea, so that it was the 4th of May ere 
we landed at Kwamera. We got a fairish day to land, 
and were met on the beach by a few people. I was 
disappointed at our welcome, for they had made such 
demonstrations of grief at our leaving that I expected a 
much more hearty reception. But knowing there had 
been a hurricane, the sight of the gaunt, hungry faces 
told me why they were sad. Besides, some had died in 
our absence, and our return reminded their relations of 
their loss. How wild and desolate the country looked ! 
great trees blown down in every direction, their 
bleached roots pointing to the sky, and bare branches 
instead of rich foliage. Our house looked like a 
weather-beaten ship, " only, not a wreck." It seemed 
very dreary to me, after the nice well-carpeted rooms I 
had lately left. The natives had done well; had 
repaired the thatch, whitewashed the walls, and 
scrubbed the floors. Outside, they had put up a new 
goat-house and servants houses, and had put a new 
fence all round the premises. As the sea had been 
washing up inside the fence, they must have had a 
great deal of work to bring things to the appearance 
they presented. 

Gradually we came to know of all the changes 
that had taken place during our absence. We were glad 
to see that, although there had been a high death-rate 
among our people, they had continued to attend church 
and school as when we were here. The great cry here 
just now is, " If we worship, we will die " ; and as more 



192 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



of the church-goers in proportion than of the heathen 
have died in our absence, there seems to them some 
ground for it. He who rules above will do all for the best. 
I was gladly surprised at being met once more by all my 
girls. It was more than I expected, for some of them 
are far bigger than many that are married. However, 
they all came back and are still with us, and can all 
read and write fairly. After unpacking, &c., we began 
to settle accounts. We had left some twenty men and 
women to fence and look after the premises, so that if 
a hurricane should come they would the sooner get the 
place in order. I see from my day-book that twenty- 
five men and women have worked ; each of the men 
for at least four days. The women had brought from 
five to twenty-five bundles of reeds each. It was no 
small business to get all these people paid justly, giving 
them neither too much nor too little. We gave them 
from sixpence to a shilling a day in blankets, axes, 
adzes, knives, print, &c. Axes, adzes, and blankets 
were in great demand, and one or two saucepans. It 
was pleasant, however, to see all arranged to the 
satisfaction of every one. William was kept very busy 
repairing the damage the natives had not been able to 
repair. No fewer than twenty-three panes of glass had 
been broken, and the school-house had been thrown 
over. With a block and tackle and a band of natives, 
he got it straight again. We were sorry to see the 
bairns coming round with hungry faces and having 
nothing to give them. We needed a great deal of help, 
and altogether we had nineteen mouths to feed. We 
gave out bread and tea in the morning, soup and rice at 
mid-day, and bread and tea again in the evening. In that 



BACK TO TANNA. 193 



way we used a cask of flour, a cask of biscuit, and two 
bags of rice in a month ; even then it was only a mere 
existence. I was glad when the month was over and 
we got the chance of escaping, for a little, from distress 
we could not relieve, for we had only two casks of flour 
and were 1300 miles from the market. We knew that 
when we were away they would scour the bush for roots 
and leaves, and so put in an existence ; besides, we left 
sufficient flour and rice to spin out the time till we 
returned. We had arranged with the captain that if it 
were calm weather he was to call here before going to 
Aniwa, so that we might visit our dear friends the 
Patons. We got a lovely start, but were becalmed, 
and took five days to do what we have often 
done in our boat in eight hours. We got our 
usual hearty welcome there, and oh what a happy 
ten days we spent together ! . . . From Aniwa 
we went on to the Annual Meeting. We were 
but one night on Erromanga, where we were delighted 
to see the change on the people. Such a band of clean, 
well-dressed natives ! We were present at the second 
-opening of the Martyrs Memorial Church (a wooden 
building presented to the natives of Erromanga by 
friends in Sydney in memory of the five missionaries 
who were murdered on that island). It is a nice 
building, but the devout appearance of the people 
assembled in it was still more pleasing. Next morning 
we were off Erakor, and found Mr Mackenzie a great 
deal better, although not able to go to the meeting. 
The next again we entered Nguna Bay, and were ashore 
in time for mid-day dinner. We were introduced to 
little Miss Milne, a splendid baby with lovely dark eyes. 
13 



194 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

Next day the gentlemen and Mrs Robertson went off 
in the "Dayspring" to Havanah Harbour, where the 
meeting was to be held, leaving Mrs Lawrie and myself 
to keep Mrs Milne company. We spent a pleasant 
time together, and I was delighted to see the change that 
had taken place on Nguna since we were last there. 
Then, scarcely one would come to church ; now, the 
same church is filled with earnest, devout people. 

After the meeting was over the " Dayspring " came 
round, and we proceeded north to Tongoa, where we 
landed Mr Michelsen. Nearly all the mission party 
accompanied him ashore. The landing is not of the 
easiest, as there is a heavy surf. The boat lies out in the 
water while natives wade out and in, carrying passengers 
and goods. The gentlemen are carried on their backs, 
while the ladies have a queen s chair, made by two men 
crossing their hands. One moment the men are up to 
their knees in water, the next, the wave has receded 
until they are standing high and dry. On the way to 
the Mission Station we passed through a native village. 
The women and children turned out in a body to see 
us. They expressed little wonder at the gentlemen, 
gave a look or two at the ladies, but, getting a sight of 
little Johnnie Lawrie, rushed round him shouting and 
yelling in great excitement. I suppose they had never 
seen a white baby before, for they seemed like to devour 
him. Mr and Mrs Lawrie had considerable difficulty 
in getting through them. Some of the women were 
rather good-looking, although covered with yellow 
paint and grease. If only washed and clothed, they 
would be quite passable. The mission house is some 
little distance from the beach, and as it was near 



HACK TO TAXXA. 195 



sunset, and we have little twilight, we had to make 
haste. After the same how-d ye-do getting into the 
boat through the surf, we got safely on board, leaving 
poor Mr Michelsen all alone. There is not one white 
person on the island but himself. He looked so lonely 
as he stood on the beach waving his hat to us. Next 
morning we were off to Epi, and the missionaries went 
on shore to see about Mr Holt s settlement. He is a 
layman sent from the Church of Victoria, and appointed 
to Epi in accordance with his own and the Church s, 
desire. 

Leaving Epi we came south, calling at all the 
stations, and at last arrived back here, having got some 
flour, rice, and beans, which we purchased from our 
neighbour missionaries, to help to feed the starving. 
Since our return, things have been going on quietly. 
While we were away, two of our people took to 
themselves wives according to heathen custom. We 
got them to be married after the Christian mode in 
church. One of the men had two wives ; but at our 
request he gave up one, who has since been married 
according to Christian fashion. These are our first 
Christian marriages here, although I hope they will 
not be the last. It is really painful to see how 
backward the Tannese are in adopting any of our 
Christian or civilized customs. 

Last Monday, with the help of two of my women, I 
made seven shortgowns. Some of the women could not 
sew, and two of them lived ten miles away. They had 
sent fowls in payment for dresses. They have no teacher 
in their village, but a Tannaman conducts service with 
a few women. Poor man, he is very ignorant, for he 



196 AGNES G. P. WATT. 

has had but little teaching, but he endeavours to walk 
up to the light he has. He was along here lately, and 
stayed one night. Next morning, as usual, I sent out 
to Yemeitahak a canful of tea and a piece of bread. 
He happened to enter her house just after she had 
eaten all the bread and had only a little tea left. This 
she offered to him, but before he drank it, he took the 
covering off his head and thanked God for watching 
over him during the night, asked Him to give him His 
Word as a relish or "kitchen" to the tea, and to watch 
over him in the way he was that day to go. When 
Yemeitahak told me, I thought what a reproof it was to 
many of us, who, unless it be a regular meal, never 
think of asking a blessing. He was talking to the 
people here, and telling them how many greater 
advantages they have than either he or his people. 
They are midway between two mission stations, and 
have not had a teacher for years, yet they cling to the 
form of worship. 

One of the single men now living with us is a young 
Tannaman. He has been to the colonies, and, since 
his return, has attached himself to our party. His 
name is Kaiasi. He is about twenty-two years of age, 
and, if spared, he may be a comfort to us. He is 
learning to read and write ; the latter he does well. I 
felt so cheered by his coming and offering to stay with 
us to be taught. 

Since our return, William has resumed itinerating. 
We are ill off for teachers, so the work devolves on the 
missionary. Every morning we rise between five and 
six. On weekdays we have to do so for the sake of 
our reading and writing school, and on Sabbaths for 



RACK TO TAXXA. 197 



his itinerating. On the Sabbath he goes four miles 
along the coast, has worship, and converses with any 
he finds on the way. Some days he is encouraged with 
good gatherings : other days cast down, having only seen 
a few persons. Some weeks ago, I accompanied him, 
along with some of our girls; and as their eyes are much 
sharper than ours, we were often amused, yet vexed, to 
hear them say, " Missi, there is So-and-so making his 
or her escape." Once or twice I saw a young man 
stooping and running under trees to get out of sight. 
In some cases it was because they did not wish us to 
catch them naked, and ran to get their girdles ; but in 
others, they wished to avoid the service we were about 
to hold. You can fancy what a hard day Sabbath is, 
walking eight miles, either along the beach or inland, 
in such a climate as this, holding short services at 
several places, then the usual service here, followed by 
the Sunday School and a meeting for men, a women s 
meeting, and in the evening, meetings for teachers and 
boys and girls. One of these last is conducted by the 
missionary, and the other by his wife. 

The great obstacle to the progress of the gospel, and 
the chief cause of war and quarrelling, is the belief in 
" Nahak." Till that is given up, we have little hope of 
decided success. On Aneityum, the disease-makers 
gave up the practice of it and broke up their sacred 
stones. I doubt much if they do not yet believe that 
they had the power; only they feel it is wicked for 
Christians to exercise it. 

One Sabbath morning, when Mr Watt was away 
itinerating, a labour vessel came off here and sent in 
her boats. From my bedroom window I saw one of 



198 AVNES C. f\ WATT. 



the white men in charge of the boat hold up turkey- 
Ted and muskets to excite the cupidity of the natives, 
and get them to go as labourers. I saw one or two take 
down shallots for sale, and then I went off to look after 
something else. Soon the cries of the people led me to 
look out, and I saw they had succeeded in getting three 
to embark. The wife of one of them was crying 
bitterly to get away with him. On going out, I heard 
the people on the beach calling on some young men to 
launch a canoe and take off the man s wife to him, as 
she was running along the edge of the reef. The 
boats returned to a ledge of the reef, and soon a 
crowd was gathered to the spot. Two more of our 
parishioners embarked, although they had to swim 
through the surf. The lads in the canoe got up to 
them, and, one of the white men having spent two 
months here, while we were away in Scotland, Kaisai 
knew him, and said, " Dan, if the missionary had been 
here you would not have come in on a Sabbath 
morning for nought. Why do you come from the 
religious land of Britain and teach us to break the 
Sabbath ? I shall inform the missionary of your 
-conduct." 

Having got the five natives they again left without 
the woman. Meanwhile, William returned and we 
resumed our duties. The bell was ringing for service 
and the people were all gathered, when the cry of " the 
two boats are again coming " was heard. We saw we 
would have no peace as long as they were there, so 
William went down and awaited the arrival of the first. 
He accosted him with, " I am amazed at you, my 
fellow-countryman, openly profaning the Lord s day." 



BACK TO TAXNA 



He replied, " I do not like it myself, but I am under 
authority and must obey." "Well," said William, "it 
is very sad to see you, of whom we expect better things, 
trading in goods and men on Sabbath." He seemed to 
get angry at this, and said that Sabbath was a lucky 
day, for he had got five. " Yes," said William, " but I 
question if you will gain much by your luck ; you shall 
yet have to answer for this day s work." Whether some 
chord in that man s heart had been touched, or how it 
was we know not, but he turned himself round in the 
boat and sat down and never looked up once again. 
The natives say the tears were streaming down his 
cheeks. For some reason or other they did not take 
the woman, but slipped away out to sea where the other 
boat was lying, never having plucked up courage to 
come in. ... 

Your loving daughter, 

AGNES. 



XIV. 
FORMATION OF THE CHURCH ON TANNA. 

TO THE FAMILY. 

KWAMERA, TANXA, 

25th June, 1881. 

MY DEAR FATHEK AND FAMILY, ... I had written 
to no one since the " Dayspring " left here in December 
till the day she returned in April, and, even then, it 
was but a note. To^ my grief, I have had no cause to 
write all these months, for we have been, as it were, 
buried alive or banished. We have not had the 
remotest chance of sending off a mail, and, of course, 
we have received none. Often have I said, that the 
four hurricane months looked like a tunnel to me. I 
fear to enter, and I breathe freely when I reach the 
further end. The longer I am here, I feel it the more. 
Perhaps never since our settlement have we been so 
shut up as during the past year. Very few traders 
have called at Tanna, and still fewer live on Tanna. I 
am not aware of any white trader being on the island 
at the present time. One poor fellow died of dropsy 
during the year. He lived all alone, except for some 
foreign natives, who, after he died, went in a canoe for 
Mr Neilson s teachers to bury him. They brought his 
body to the Mission burning-ground, and laid him in 



FORMATION OF THE CHURCH ON TANNA. 201 

his last resting-place there. I know not all who lie in 
that little "God s acre," but I know of some. There 
Mr Johnston rests, having only put his hand to the 
plough. The club of the savage did not break his 
skull, but he never recovered from the shock he 
received when he saw what a narrow escape he had 
had. There lies also the first Mrs Paton and her 
infant son. There several native teachers rest, who 
have been found faithful unto death ; and a goodly 
number of little children. There, too, was buried all 
that remained of John Underwood, who was blown up 
with his own gunpowder while in a state of intoxication. 
So shattered was he, that only one foot and his chin 
were left to be buried. Near him lies Dana, who, 
while out shooting on Sabbath, accidentally shot 
himself, and died of tetanus. Close by, we buried poor 
Bell, who was killed by a shot from a Tannaman some 
years ago. What a strange medley, gathered from 
many parts of the world ! Scotland, England, Nova 
Scotia, Germany, Raratonga, Aneityum. The helpless 
infant and the sinner old in wickedness ; all awaiting 
the resurrection morning. That is at Port Resolution, 
and from there to here, a distance of fifteen miles, I 
only know of one European grave. It contains the 
precious dust of little Minnie Mathieson, aged but a 
few months. Her father is buried on Mare, in the 
Loyalty Islands, and her mother on Aneityum. Their 
graves are severed far and wide, but their spirits are 
united before the throne of God. 

When the " Dayspring " called here last December I 
went on board according to appointment, and was put 
ashore at Aniwa. On arriving, we were almost afraid 



:202 AGXES C. P. W ATT. 



to ask how Mrs Paton was, she had been so low when 
the vessel was last there ; Mrs Braithwaite, the 
captain s wife, had kindly remained with her. The 
captain, Mrs Mackenzie, Mrs Milne, and I, landed in 
the moonlight, and so came upon them unawares. 
While Mrs Mackenzie and I stood upon the verandah, 
fearing to enter lest we might disturb, we heard an 
infant cry. Soon we found that Mrs Paton was 
improving, though still very low. She had been 
ill for six months, during which time she passed 
through much trouble. I spent Christmas and New- 
year s-day there, making toffee for the children to 
cheer their young hearts. About the beginning of 
January, Mr Watt came over in his boat to take me to 
Kwamera ; and as Mr Paton had so much to do, we 
proposed to take Frank and James with us, and this 
being agreed to, we started on the 10th. We got a 
lovely day, but so calm that we had to row the whole 
way, and thus were nearly twelve hours on the sea. 
We landed in the moonlight and got such a welcome, 
not only on account of the children but because Mr Watt 
had left on a rough day, when the natives feared that 
he and his boat s crew would be drowned. About six 
weeks after our return we got a letter by canoe from 
Aniwa telling of Walter Watt Paton s sudden death, 
only ten days after we had left. What a shock to the 
lonely parents, as the child was but an hour and a half 
ill. The father made his coffin, and the next day, he 
and Robert, with the natives, laid him to rest beside 
his sister Lena. Jesus only knows what the parents 
suffered. ... As the Synod is now past, we expect the 
"Dayspring" back here soon, on her way to Melbourne, 



FORMATION OF THE CHURCH ON TANNA, 203 

whither it is to go with the Patons. Mr Paton will 
reside there at present as agent for the Church of 
Victoria, whose funds are at present very low. The 
Holts go too ; they came down last year with us, bringing 
with them a beautiful house. They got a promising 
station on Epi ; and through their own indefatigable 
efforts and the help of others, in a few weeks they 
found themselves in possession of a fine house and 
grounds. But they had put the stove pipe through the 
thatch of the cook-house without a fender ; so on the 
-day that the vessel was to leave them for five or six 
months, and while Mr Holt was on board with his 
latest letter, the flames of all he possessed rose to 
heaven. He rushed on shore to find all reduced to 
ashes. What a mercy the " Dayspring " was not off. 
She made a trip to Havanah Harbour and got what 
she could for them ; and the captain having given what 
he could spare, left them with an anxious mind. After 
that, Mr Holt set to work to build a house, cutting the 
wood in the bush, but in a short time was so prostrate 
with fever and ague, that they were glad to get off 
by a chance vessel to Mr Macdonald s at Havanah 
Harbour. . . . 

On Aneityum the chief topic is the destruction of 
"kava." For some years back, the growing and 
drinking of it has been far too prevalent. Lately a 
movement has been set on foot to repress the evil. 
Several have publicly rooted up and burned their stock 
of kava. The missionaries have also instituted an 
" Anti-Kava League/ and numbers have signed the 
pledge neither to give, nor take, nor grow it. 

The kava question will be a grave one on Tanna, 



204 AOXES C. P. WATT. 



where every adult male drinks it at sundown. It will 
be like plucking out a right eye or cutting off a right 
hand to give it up. But we have still graver sins in 
our midst to war against, which more than occupy all 
our energies. The missionaries were pleased to see the 
marked improvement on our people. The recital of 
what is going on in other islands is stimulating our 
backward Tannese. Matthew arid Kapere have 
commenced to conduct morning worship in two villages. 

. . . November 17th. I am afraid that the events of 
the last two days will cause a tinge of sadness to 
pervade my correspondence. Yesterday and to-day we 
lost seven of our church-going people by emigration to 
Queensland. A vessel from Brisbane has been lying 
off, and sending in her boats to recruit labour for the 
colonial market, and I am sorry to say she has got many 
willing labourers from our immediate neighbourhood. 
One of the recruits was Keianga, our first girl, as you 
may remember, and of whom we had such hopes ; for 
she did promise well. Alas, she fell deep into sin, and 
many an aching heart we had over her. 

Lately, she and her husband came to live in our 
neighbourhood, and for some time we have been 
cheered by her earnest desire to follow that which is 
good. Her husband, who left her and went to the 
colonies for three years, is the very personification of 
jealousy and revenge (though truly she gave him 
cause). Since his return, three years ago, he has 
beaten her unmercifully ; yet, poor thing, she bears it 
patiently, without a grumble, believing it to be the 
cross she is called upon to bear on account of her 
backsliding. She told me the other day that she 



FORMATION OF THE CHURCH ON TANNA. 205 

prayed for grace to be patient, to bear the just rewards 
of her deeds, and that her trials might be sanctified to 
her. This morning, she came to ask my advice, as her 
husband wished her to go. Would it be right for her 
to go away from us who had taught her to worship 
God ? I said she ought to follow her husband, and 
that she could worship the Lord wherever she went. 
She was so pleased to hear me say so, and said, " I 11 
try to give my heart to Him. If I pray in my heart 
daily to Him, will He love me although I cannot get to 
church ? " Having got our consent, she went away 
cheerfully ; and though I mourn her absence, still it is 
so hard for a young woman to live a pure life, when 
left by her husband, that I think it better she has 
gone. May the Lord guide her into a Christian home ! 

Since writing the above, we have had a letter from 
Mr Neilson, informing us that the "Dayspring" had 
called there from her northern trip, and landed Kiri, 
one of our lads who has been acting as boat s crew. 
On hearing that so many of his companions had 
emigrated, he would, no doubt, wish to join them. 
Unfortunately for us, the same ship called there two 
days after he landed, and he, with some others, sailed 
in her. I cannot tell you how sorry I am, for he was 
such a hopeful lad, could read well ; and, believing the 
Scripture, " The entrance of thy word giveth light," we 
looked forward with pleasure to his approaching 
manhood. They will go for so much per head in 
Brisbane. If they fall into good hands, they will be 
cared for ; if not, they will be attended to according to 
their market value. 

The vessel s name is the " Ceara." The man in 



206 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



charge of the boat is what the traders call a "good 
shot." He captivated the natives here by lavishing 
articles of barter on them, throwing bunches of tobacco 
on shore for them to scramble for, promising 2 10/ a 
month as boat s crew, and giving gin all around for 
nothing. How far he succeeded in his mission here, 
you already know. Those got here would realise at 
least 70 ; not a bad return for two days hunting. 
Our church is manifestly thinner, and at morning and 
evening school the blanks are even more noticeable. 

Though the love of novelty has a great deal to do 
with taking our lads away, as well as the desire for 
property, yet the chief cause is discomfort. In this 
district, Nahi-abba, the chief, is a constant torment. 
He is always causing trouble by stealing other people ^ 
wives, beating his own, and otherwise leading all 
connected with him into trouble. The lads here have 
been saying that they are tired of carrying muskets- 
daily for the protection of one who is so fool-hardy and 
wicked ; and that if they got the chance they would 
emigrate. This they have done. You say, " Why do 
they defend him ? " I cannot tell you ; the only reason 
they give is, " He is our chief." 

While I was in Melbourne, William had a visit from 
a man-of-war, H.M.S. "Miranda." A trading ves.sel 
reported that she was fired at by the natives here, and 
Her Majesty s ship came down to caution the people. 
Of course the charge was refuted. A boat had been 
fired at away to the west of us, by people who are at 
enmity with ours. After a very pleasant visit, Her 
Majesty s representative took his departure, and my old 
man was again alone. I never felt anxious about hi& 



FORMATION OF THE CHURCH ON TANNA. 207 



comfort, for I knew that with Yamen as cook and 
Yamen s wife as bedroom maid, these matters would be 
duly attended to. The other helps are not so efficient ;. 
still, with a little supervision, they get on very well, and 
I hoped for the best. All went on favourably in my 
absence ; and having a splendid passage both up and 
down, I arrived before being expected, and gave them a 
glad surprise. There was a great " hurry-scurry " that 
morning trying to put things in order before their 
exacting friend arrived. There was a sort of pride in 
letting me see how nicely they could get on without 
me. Nevertheless, it was not difficult to see that I got 
a hearty welcome from the Kwamera missionary and 
his parishioners.* 

The printing of the Acts of the Apostles had been 
finished a few days before, and our best readers had 
been presented with copies. They were pleased to get 
them, for they had been reading for a long time in 
Matthew. 

The second annual free contribution of arrowroot 
was made, amounting to about 450 Ibs. The people 
did not enter so heartily into the work as they did last 
year ; but then they had put up a large grass building 
to worship in, and so well did they turn out, and so 
heartily did they work, that the whole structure was 
up in four days. The proceeds of the arrowroot we 
intend to use in lengthening our school-house and 
making it do duty for a church as well. At present it 
is too small for our congregation ; hence the erection 



* Mrs Watt had been under the necessity of gx)ing up to 
Melbourne for medical advice. 



208 A<;N.ES c. P. WATT. 

of a temporary grass building which, along with the 
arrowroot, is the free contribution for the year. They 
also put up a school-house, but that was in payment 
for medicine. 

Almost from the beginning of our Mission we have 
got the natives to put up their own places of worship, but 
to give anything for the gospel s sake is a new idea on 
Tanna. Like many of old, they follow Christ for the 
loaves and the fishes, and thought they were conferring 
an honour on us by attending service, expecting 
to get all their clothes for nothing. These erroneous 
ideas are being dispelled. 

In anticipation of my return, the six girls had 
learned by heart the fourteenth chapter of Matthew s 
gospel, and repeated it to me ; in many cases without 
a mistake, in others with only one or two promptings. 
I gave them each a shoulder handkerchief in acknow 
ledgment of their diligence. 

The most important event of the year, nay ! of our 
whole mission life, if not of the history of the missions 
of Tanna, is the formation of a church here. We have 
had a communicants class for over a year. First we 
waited for Mr Neilson s return, thinking it would be 
nice for us all to be together; then for the Annual 
Meeting, and, finally, my absence postponed it till 
October 6th. After all, Mrs Neilson could not leave 
her station, but Mr Neilson came. On the Friday 
evening Mr Neilson preached, and William baptised two 
men, four women, and three children. On Sabbath, 
October 6th, eighteen of us sat down at the table of 
our Lord : three Europeans, nine Aneityumese, and 
six Tannese. Mr Neilson administered the sacrament. 




14 



210 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

It was a happy, solemn time. In the course 
of my daily Bible reading I got this promise : 
"From this day will I bless thee." Haggai ii. 19. 
May we indeed realise that precious promise ! Mr 
Neilson expressed himself pleased with the general 
demeanour and appearance of our people. He took a 
severe attack of asthma and was detained for several 
days, thus causing, I have no doubt, much anxiety to 
Mrs Neilson, who was expecting him back on Monday. 

Having made abstinence from daily kava-drinking 
a term of communion (on account of heathen associa 
tions), several were kept back, as they were not 
prepared to give it up. Like Felix, they put off, 
saying : " By and by, missi, we will join you." . . . 

With heart s love to you all, 
Ever yours, 

AGNES C. P. WATT. 



XV. 
INCIDENTS FOLKLORE. 

COMPILED FROM LETTERS IN 1882-83. 

... On the 17th of December, 1881, we went to 
Meiyahau, where Nalvatimi is teacher. We have only 
& reed church there, and one end is partitioned off for 
our use. A reed bench and a mattress stuffed with banana 
leaves form our bed. We hung up our mosquito 
curtains, which kept off lizards, centipedes, and rats, 
with which the house is infested. We had taken a 
number of traps which we got in Scotland from a good 
Midlothian friend, and every now and again I was 
awakened by the screams of our unwelcome visitors. 
On Sabbath I had to talk and sing from six in the 
morning to nine at night, and, need I say ? I was 
perfectly exhausted. We had good meetings, and, for 
Tannese. they listened well. Next morning at sunrise 
we started again for Kwamera, overland ; as good as 
four miles over rocks, up and down, now through bush, 
now sinking deep in sand, then over rough stones. 
We must have looked a grotesque company, for many 
natives followed us carrying our mattress, &c., on poles. 
Our own good house with its boarded floor looked so 
cool and inviting after camping out in a grass hut, and 
our hot walk that morning. 

In April we had a sore trial. Wabu, who was born 
in December, 1869, and was thus far too young to be 



AdXES C. 1>. WATT. 



married, was dragged away and lifted into a canoe like 
a pig, and sent to a heathen district ten or twelve miles 
away, to be trained in heathen manners and dress, and 
at last become the wife of a heathen. Some time 
previous we heard that this was proposed ; then a 
deputation waited on us. We said we could not agree 
to it, that they ought to let her stay until she was 
full-grown, and then the intended husband might come 
and get properly married ; and, as she had long conformed 
to Christian customs and dress, they ought to have 
respect to the same. In vain were our expostulations. 
I felt it so keenly that I neither ate nor slept for three 
days. But time heals the sorest hearts, though I have 
still a tender spot for poor Wabu. She was so 
affectionate, that on my return from anywhere, when 
she came to meet me, she leapt up and clung to my 
neck like a big dog. Her cries when being dragged 
away rang in my ears for weeks. Dark, dark Tanna ! 
She sells the bodies and souls of her children for a piece 
of pork and a drink of kava. Wabu was a good 
reader, could sew well, and was exceedingly smart at 
committing Scripture to memory. May her knowledge 
be blessed to herself and to those among whom she is 
sent. I have called her " Joseph " ; for, like him, she is 
sold by her relatives into a heathen land. If only the 
Lord would bless His own word, so that she might 
become a light in a dark place ! It is hard to see those 
you have thus watched over, taught, nursed and prayed 
for, compelled to return to their former life. We have 
had much to grieve us in this way from time to time. 
But the work is God s. Oh to be able always to 
remember that is so ! ... 




STKKAM AT KWAMKKA. 



214 AOXES C. P. WATT. 



The other day I noticed that the run of water was 
rather slow in the stream, and said : how dry the 
brook is ! Oh, said Reriapui, the source is going dry. 
How is that? is it want of rain? I asked. Oh no, 
there has been plenty of rain lately; but the spring 
that bubbles up is going dry. Some one has bewitched 
it. There is nothing in earth or heaven that these people 
do not profess to be able to do. Even the story of 
Joshua commanding the sun to stand still would excite 
no wonder ; for they believe they can do that. William 
saw a reed with its leaves tied together, and asked 
what it meant. He was told that if one saw the sun 
was going to set before a certain piece of work was 
finished, and was anxious such should not be the case, 
he tied up the leaves of a reed round its stem. 

Many of their beliefs they hide from us, because they 
know that we white people laugh at them. It is only 
now and again that we find them out. There was an 
old woman to the west of us who professed to have 
communication with the unseen world. Many who had 
lost relatives sought unto her ; and she brought beads, 
turkey-red, tobacco, pipes, and knives, from the 
departed. One man, a very sensible fellow in many 
respects, brought a knife he had got from a deceased 
son-in-law ; I forget the maker s name, but it was a 
Sheffield-made knife. In vain we showed him the 
maker s name, and told him it was all a hoax, that the 
old witch was befooling him. He declared that he 
heard his deceased son-in-law speak to him, and tell 
him to stretch forth his hand in the direction of the 
voice and he would receive the knife. He did so, and 
there was the knife ; now, was not that proof positive ? 



INCIDENTS FOLKLORE. 215 



Day by day new messages came from the dead ; some 
sending for goods and others giving back return 
presents. As one piece of turkey-red is much the same 
as another ; why, the poor deluded creatures actually 
believed that that very piece of turkey-red or that pipe 
which had been buried with their relative, was now sent 
back from Ipai (Hades) ! Of course, we were branded 
as deceiving the people. We challenged the old witch 
and her believers to come and take something out of 
our house. If she did so, with closed doors, as she 
professed she was able to do, we would reward her 
liberally. "Oh, she was coming, she was coming; 
Missi, you will see that you are wrong. She can get 
things out of a house without opening the door ; her 
deceased husband is the medium/ I fancy she was 
more rogue than fool ; she did not come, and, as a 
reason, she told the people that her husband refused to 
go to premises where there was so much worship. He 
could not work where the gospel was. Lately she has 
given up her trade, and is now a poor decrepit body, 
unable to walk. 

We often purpose gathering together all the folk 
lore, &c., of this people that we know ; for, doubtless, 
many of their old beliefs are passing away. 

One of their legends is very interesting to me. It 
seems to speak of a vague belief in immortality, of the 
depravity of our nature, of our willingness to remain in 
condemnation, of our rejection of eternal life, and our 
preference for the things of this world. The legend is 
this : An old woman went to the sea along with her 
grandchild. She set the child down among the 
pandanus trees that fringe our beach, and went to 



216 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

the sea. There she cast off her old wrinkled skin, as 
lobsters cast their shells, and she became a young and 
beautiful woman. She returned to her grandchild and 
said : " My grandchild, let me take you in my arms." 
But the child refused, saying, "You are not my 
grandmother; she is old and wrinkled: and I ll not 
come to you." In vain the grandmother pled ; the 
grandchild would not go to her. So after many 
entreaties, she said to the child : " I willed good for 
you, I offered you good, but you have chosen evil." So 
saying, she returned to the sea, put on the old skin, 
returned and called the child, who immediately went to 
her. Thus it was designed at first that we were not to 
die, only to be changed. 

We have tried in several ways to find out who were 
the parents of the child, if the grandmother was any 
one in particular, and where she was said to have come 
from ; but the people say, " Oh, it is only a legend ; we 
do not know any more about it." 

There is a large rock on the other side of the island 
which is spoken of as " that old woman " ; but whether 
they believe that her spirit dwells in the stone, or that 
she has turned into stone, I cannot make out. 

Not far from us there are a great many stones 
representing different actions of, or articles belonging to, a 
being named Yanuavau. He must have been a person 
of like passions with themselves ; for they showed us 
the impress of his knees where he knelt on a stone, 
raising himself up over a rock to see and admire the 
women who lived at the neighbouring point. There is 
also a cave full of moss-grown stones representing the 
many pigs he had killed atagreat feast which he had made. 



XVI. 
IN PERILS BY SEA. 

GENERAL LETTER, 1884. 

Isn t it strange to be writing in February for a 
mail in August ? but that is what I am now doing ! 
January is past, and with it many cares ; for in that 
month we have always experienced the worst hurri 
canes; but our fears were not realised this year, for 
we have had a pleasant month ; only we are sadly 
ill-off for want of rain. The grass is parched and looks 
dead, and the natives are crying out at the loss of their 
crops. The rain-makers are at their wit s end, but 
remain unconvinced of their powerlessness. The Lord 
alone can dispel such darkness. . . . 

The statistics of our mission do not figure largely on 
paper. One hundred at the principal service does not 
sound much, but when we know that many of these 
have come over long and rugged roads, I tell you that 
we feel glad to see them, and give them a hearty 
smile of welcome. 

Many are inclined to ask, " Can any good thing come 
out of Tanna ? " I am grieved to hear people harping 
on the old story of how Tanna has resisted the gospel, 
of how long she has had it, and how strenuously she has 
opposed it. I found lately in a newspaper a statement 



218 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

to the effect that while Messrs Turner and Nisbet were 
on Tanna, mission work was commenced in earnest. 
True, but it was only commenced. Any one who 
knows the Tannese language, or indeed any of the New 
Hebrides languages, will agree with me, that it is but 
lame mission work one can do during the first twelve 
months. Besides, the Eastern island teachers never 
learned to speak Tannese properly. Even after 
fourteen years chattering away in this tongue I 
have difficulty in making out the few sheets of 
Samoan-Tannese which I have seen. Thus I say the 
Tannese never had a fair offer of the gospel until a 
much later date, and even then in only one small 
part of the island. Why condemn the whole, for the 
backwardness of one or two tribes ? 

Tanna is a hard field. The network of superstition 
is close ; the people cling with a tenacity worthy of a 
better cause to the traditions received from their 
fathers ; but is that any reason why we should give 
them up, or that we should send men past Tanna, 
saying " Wherever you go, don t go to Tanna: Tanna 
is doomed"? We trust in God that poor doomed 
Tanna shall yet shake herself from the dust, and arise 
and shine ; and that on the last great day it shall be 
said of her as of Zion, " This man and that man was 
born there." 

To us who labour down in this deep mine of 

heathenism, in darkness, loneliness, and longing, 

receiving, from time to time, from those who are 
working in the light and sunshine of social life, 
messages to the effect that we are wasting our time, 
spending our strength in vain, and digging where gold 



IX PERILS BY SEA. 



can never be found, it is cheering to realise that to 
our Master we stand or fall, and that work faithfully 
done in His name shall not only be rewarded, but 
rewarded openly. Besides, we never know when, in 
digging, we may strike the precious ore. 

What an amount of discomfort we have endured in 
twelve months; During that time we have re-thatched 
and lined our own house, re-thatched the printing- 
office and store-room, taken down our school-house and 
put up a new church, and re-thatched Mr Neilson s old 
house at Port Resolution. Mr Neilson gave in his 
resignation at the Synod ; and we are left in charge of 
his station ; but the general opinion is that it would 
be well to let the people take charge of themselves, 
for a time at least. Thus, you see, we have the care of 
three stations Mr Neilson s, Mr Paton s, and our own. 
Formerly the house was thatched with cocoa-nut 
leaves, which require to be renewed every two years. 
Now we have succeeded in procuring sugar-cane 
leaves, which at Kwamera last five years. A great 
quantity was carried for miles; yet in one day we 
bought nearly eleven hundred reedsful ! 

Next day a band of men and youths came to put it 
em ; and just after the whole of one side of the roof was 
bared, down came a heavy shower. Soon the floor was 
flooded. We dragged our bedstead to one side and 
barely saved it. In despair I took off my shoes, and 
with a long-handled broom switched out a good deal, 
and so kept down the water on the floor. 

Things did look a bit dreary, and led me to exclaim : 
"Who would be a missionary s wife?" and how- 
many hundreds a year more would it take to induce 



220 AGNES O. P. WATT. 

me to continue such a life? But we have higher 
motives to live for. 

However, the shower, though hearty, was soon over ; 
the sun shone out again, all became dry, and the men 
were again at work. When one half was done we gave 
them a lunch of rice and tea ; and as both we and our 
boatmen were anxious to be home again, we urged 
them to go on with the other half, and by sunset all 
was finished. Meanwhile, the women had been 
cooking ; and two pigs, one fowl, and a lot of native 
puddings were brought and laid down at the back door, 
as a present to the workers. We gave return presents, 
and paid for the thatch and labour. 

We had much to discourage us during February. 
About the beginning of the month, a promising young 
man died, and his death threatened to shake his 
father s reason. The father had begun to come 
regularly to church, and had cut off his long hair, wore 
clothes, and was otherwise a hopeful character, but this 
sudden and unexpected blow was too much for him. 
On Sabbath 10th, we went inland to visit him, and to 
hold service at his village. Whether he hid or not, I 
cannot tell, but he was not there ; and as Mr Watt had 
to preach at other villages, he and a teacher went on, 
while I and a little lad waited patiently. A long 
weary wait we had, but, just before sundown, Tero 
came. He looked wild and restless, but I spoke kindly 
to him, and tried to impress on him the fact that 
sickness is in God s hand alone, and even if some one 
had so hated his son as to do what he believed would 
cause death, it was not his to avenge, but that God would 
do so. He listened to all I said, and promised not to 



AUNES C. P. WATT. 



take revenge, and by and by to resume his church-going. 
In the gloaming I returned home, not over sanguine 
of his promise, but hoping for the best. On the 
Friday following, just at sundown, a poor, miserable 
wretch was crossing from the water s edge to the 
" kava-house," carrying a bottle of water to prepare his 
evening potion, which was being chewed by a little 
boy, when he discovered Tero peering at him through 
the surrounding under-scrub. The poor victim said, 
" Tero, wherefore art thou here ? " The reply was 
a shot that laid him low, followed by a volley from the 
people who had been hid in the bush, who now rushed 
out and fired on the lifeless body. This over, they fled 
and left Kauki to lie till some of our servants who 
were the first to recover from the shock of so much 
musketry fired close to our house took up the 
mangled body and buried it. Thus Kauki, well and 
intent on heathenism at sundown, was laid in his grave 
ere another day had dawned. He was a noted 
" nahak-taker," a notorious thief, and an arch deceiver. 
No actual war followed, but the state of excitement 
consequent on such a tragic occurrence thinned our 
previously well-filled church. I indeed feared that we 
would have no worshippers on the following Sabbath, 
but upwards of fifty came, and soon after it rose to 
seventy, and continued so. According to native ideas, 
revenge must yet be taken ; but a better spirit rules 
many of the aggrieved people, and we trust that 
peaceful counsels may prevail. 

When the " Dayspring " came, Dr and Mrs Gunn 
came ashore to stay with us while the vessel went 
north. 



AY PERILS BY SEA. 223 

William had arranged to go for arrowroot to Port 
Resolution and thence to Weasisi, and Dr and Mrs 
Gunn expressed a wish to accompany him. 

We intended to go, stay one night at each place, 
and then return home. So, taking what was needful 
for a night s encampment, we started. The sun was 
.strong, and there was no wind ; but we were sick. We 
landed at Port Resolution, had a cup of tea, and again 
resumed our voyage the voyage that gave us such 
experiences that we won t seek another for many a day. 
I call it our famous trip ; William says, infamous. 
We reached Weasisi that afternoon, and left next day 
at 1 p.m. It wasn t looking over bright, but little did 
we think that we would take from that hour till eight p.m. 
to reach our destination. As we passed the volcano or 
Sulphur Bay, darkness fell on us. Though the 
flame from the volcano seemed lurid and terrible, we 
were glad to watch its ever-recurring eruptions. The 
men were worn out pulling, but as the moon was 
rising, we struggled on for Port Resolution ; and, 
although we had but an empty house without a fire to 
welcome us, we felt glad to be thus far on our journey. 
We got a fire lit, and tea made, and having thanked 
the God of life for preservation, retired to rest. I slept 
little, as I knew from the howling of the wind that we 
should be prevented from getting to Kwamera. The 
note in my daily journal speaks volumes. Here it is 
Thursday 8th. Still blowing, and no food, but the 
" Caledonia " (French ship) came into the harbour in 
the afternoon, and my spirits rose. Dr Gunn and 
William boarded the "Caledonia" for supplies, and 
returned laden with much kindness. The captain 



224 AGNES C. l>. WATT. 



would take nothing, but only asked them to give a few 
francs as a contribution to the " Company." Mrs Gunri 
and I did our best at housekeeping under the 
difficulties, and so we lived until Monday, 12th May. 

We rested the Seventh day, according to the 
Commandment, and had two services with those who 
met for worship. On Monday morning, two of our 
boat s crew, who had walked to a point of land where 
the sea is usually roughest, pronounced it practicable. 
They and William would go round in the boat, while 
the Gunns and I walked over a neck of land and 
saved a nasty point. This agreed to, we dismantled our 
beds, packed up what was to go with us, and divided 
all our cooked food. The boat started, and we did the 
same. We had a pleasant walk, and got some 
cocoa-nuts to drink on the way ; so in good spirits we 
emerged from the bush to see our boat careering along 
like a racehorse. Our spirits sank ; but how could we 
go back ? All our necessaries of life were in the boat, 
and it could not turn ; while once home we would be 
all right. On William and the natives landing and 
saying that they had been out in worse days, we put a 
brave face on it, and stepped into the boat. The men 
pulled with a will, and soon we had up sail and were 
away before wind and sea at a tremendous rate. We 
thought that the worst was past, and hoped that the 
further on we went, the calmer it would become. But 
alas ! other sad experiences were in store for us. The 
wind was puffy, and the sea was evidently rising. 
Now and again a spray broke over us, but the good 
boat mounted every wave ; and the taking in of a spray 
was only followed by a shake of the head from the 



AV PERILS BY SEA. 225 

recipient and a laugh from the spectators. Already we 
were in sight of our house. Having risen over so 
many waves, and having kept ourselves pretty comfort 
able by constant bailing, we were hopeful. As we thus 
careered along, cheered by the steersman s " It s all 
right," and the prospect of soon being on shore, a heavy 
wave is seen coming behind us. It breaks over my 
devoted head with a heavy thud, fills the boat, so that 
we are now wet from above, and our feet and leers in 

O 

water. Things are floating ! Bail, for your life ! 
Away with that paltry meat tin, and get a bucket ! 
Vahai springs over two thwarts, and Dr Gunn renders 
efficient help ; while Mrs Gunn looks after her sleeping 
infant gasping for breath having been rudely awakened 
by a wave dashing on his face and filling his little 
mouth with salt water. Old Niath looked round 
him in bewilderment, then recollecting his position, set 
to and bailed also ; only he poured the water on 
Dr Gunn s legs instead of over the side. To this the 
Doctor objected, and calling the good man s attention 
to the fact, he came to his senses. Another wave may 
come and swamp us ; but a few more plunges and we 
are landed on the beach, like drowned rats, hardly able 
to crawl with the weight of water in our clothes. 

Thus were we baptised in the cloud and in the sea ; 
nay, we had passed through the sea. As we looked out 
on the still rising sea, after a cup of warm tea and a 
change of clothing, we felt more than ever what a merciful 
providence had been vouchsafed to us. I told Mrs 
Gunn she had indeed experienced the romance of "a 
missionary s holiday trip." 



XVII. 
ON ANIWA. 

COMPILED. 

For a number of years Mr and Mrs Watt were 
appointed by the Mission Synod, at the request of 
Mr (now Dr) Paton, to take charge of the work on 
Aniwa during his absence. Besides visiting that 
island by boat from Tanna, they usually went over in 
the "Dayspring" when on her way north, and stayed 
with the people until the vessel returned. Their visit 
usually lasted from six to eight weeks at a time. 
Some of the most interesting references to these visits 
are presented in this chapter. 

1882. Aniwa. We arrived here on the 1st July. 
We were landed, with all our train, including goats, 
kids, helps, boxes, &c., and the vessel went away 
north before seven a.m. 

We found much to give encouragement. The people 
were glad to see us, and clamorous for clothing. In 
two days I had disposed of one hundred girdles 
(fathoms of calico) for men ; cut, pinned, and saw 
made, twenty women s dresses. Another day I cut 
eleven. My ringers were blistered. I got a fowl for a 
dress ; still they came and came till I had torn up all 



ON A XI W A. 227 



the sheets I could spare, and had eveu made dresses 
out of a sofa cbver. My inventive powers were severely 
taxed ; every scrap I had was used ; even the parings 
of the dresses were sewn together for a handkerchief. 
I was indeed sorry I could give them no more ; it was so 
pleasant to see them wish clothing, and be glad to buy 
it. 

On the second day after our arrival, they gave us a 
present of four pigs and twelve fowls, with a pile of 
yams. We gave a return present of shirts, calico, axes, 
and soap. . . . From what I have said, you will see I 
have not been idle. I have had to write all this 
to-day, with many interruptions ; bartering, giving out 
medicine, and seeing my new cook, who, by the way, is 
an Erromangan, and cannot speak Tannese ; so we 
carry on our conversation in broken English, thus : 
"What for you no cook yam?" "You no speak me 
before." "You tell woman belong you, he eat this 
fellow yam." " He no like him," &c., &c. William 
accuses me for writing "jumpy " letters. If you think 
this one "jumpy," just remember all I have to do. 

After the Communion here we returned to Kwamera. 

1883. We arrived here on the 9th July, about 
live p.m. We got a hearty reception on the shore, and 
the people carried up our baggage at once, though the 
Mission house is a good way off. As the sun was down, 
and all was dark in the empty house, I did feel like 
entering a dungeon. The rooms had been whitewashed 
three months before, but no one had been inside since ; 
and cobwebs can be spun in three days. The rats had 
been trying what sort of a meal they could make out of 



228 AGNES G. P. WATT. 

the straw palliasses, and they did not look inviting after 
their doings. However, after sweeping up, we got out 
our napery and stores, and had a fairly comfortable tea, 
and a good night s rest. On the afternoon of Thursday, 
12th, Mr Watt gave out new books in the church, and 
I never saw such anxiety manifested for the Word. 
The people seemed quite desperate when they knew 
the Gospel of John had run done. 

The darkest-hearted man (Nesi) in this island has 
now begun to attend church ; so that heathenism can 
truly be called a thing of the past, as far as open 
profession is concerned. 

I have had a great deal to do in millinery and 
dressmaking. The week before the Communion we 
were kept busy from morning till night so many 
wanted new dresses, and there was so little time to 
prepare them. 

On Sabbath, August 5th, fifty-nine sat down at the 
Lord s Table. On the previous Friday, which was our 
Fast-day, Mr Watt baptised five adults and ten 
children. The little children specially interested me. 
In one case two little boys and their sister stood in a 
group, being admitted on the faith of their mother, who 
had just been baptised. Their father is still outside 
the pale of the church, though a regular attender. 
The little ones looked up so enquiringly into Mr Watt s 
face as he sprinkled each in the name of the Triune 
God. I thought of the Saviour s words : " Except ye 
become as little children." 

One of the unusual events that took place while we 
were here was a divorce. A young man and woman 
were married some few years ago because their parents 



ON ANIWA. 229 



and guardians had arranged it; but they publicly 
disowned each other, and were causing great scandal. 
Lately, the wife, who has all along been a gipsy, eloped 
with another man. The deserted husband wished 
divorce, and all the island concurred. On Wednesday, 
after the prayer-meeting, in presence of the whole 
congregation, the husband and wife stood side by side 
in front of the missionary and declared their desire for 
divorce. The missionary read, in their own language, 
all the Scripture on the subject ; and after a short 
address declared them put asunder. The divorced 
husband then left her side and went to his seat ; while 
the claimant came forward, and they were formally 
married : the bride giving as emphatic a " yes " to the 
question whether she would marry this man or not, as 
she had given when she declined the former. I 
sincerely hope this is the end of the unhappy affair. 

1884. On Tuesday, 24th June, we started on our 
watery way. When we reached Futuna, it was blowing 
hard, so I did not go on shore, but Mr Watt did, and, 
through some mistake, we did not get from there 
that night. Next day, the boat went in and brought 
off our passengers, and we sailed away for Aniwa, 
where we landed at daybreak, after a rough night 
Messrs Mackenzie, Fraser, Murray, and two children 
accompanying us. Having only two tea-cups, we 
had to use tin pannikins, but our friends expressed 
much relish for the tea and sweet milk (thanks to Mrs 
Annand, who had given us two milk goats). Three boat 
loads brought in all our things ; our friends left us, and 
we began our third annual visit to Aniwa. When once 



230 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

our boxes were unpacked, and the necessaries of life 
conveniently laid out, we began to feel somewhat at 
home. The people gave us a very hearty welcome, and 
we found things in fair order. An attempt to steal a 
girl last year after we left, and of which we heard at 
the time, had caused some unpleasant feeling, but it 
went no further ; and since we came, the man who 
wished to steal her has come again to church, and is 
now attending the candidates class. He has made 
considerable progress in reading during the past year, 
and we earnestly trust the Word may be blessed to 
him, and that soon he may become a help to us and the 
good cause here. We are pleased to note the marked 
advance in reading during the year ; it speaks well for 
the teachers, who only get 10 divided among six of 
them. Soon after our arrival, we set the people on to 
their annual contribution of arrowroot ; arid after the 
grown up people had made theirs, Mr Watt proposed 
that the young people should follow the example of the 
children at Aname and Kwamera, and make some as 
their special love-token, for they had already assisted 
the grown up people. 

It was very encouraging to see one after another of 
these bright boys and girls coming along, laden with a 
basket of the raw material, having scoured the bush 
in search of it, and now bringing it to be weighed, for 
we wished to see who had gathered most. Even after all 
had brought in their offering, and the day had been 
fixed for grating it, a few rose at daybreak and 
searched for more, thus supplementing their previous 
lot. The making clay was a great day, and from early 
morning till late in the evening these young people 



ON ANIWA. 231 



scraped, grated, and washed at arrowroot. So now we 
have the pleasure of saying they have made a whole 
-cask. 

Yesterday, July 25th, the year s contribution was 
exhibited in church, and formally dedicated to the 
Lord, as a free-will offering for the Gospel. We have 
celebrated here three Christian marriages this year. 
As has been the custom, the three brides never saw the 
dresses they were to be married in, till within 
half an hour of going to church. I then called them 
in, arraying them in nice print robes and new straw 
hats, and a silver(-less) ring each. They were quite 
delighted. In the meantime, the bridegrooms were 
dressing somewhere else ; I had given them a trifling- 
present of clothing. Two of the lads had been in the 
colonies, and turned out in splendid style, even to 
boots. (Had they any socks ?) I accompanied the 
brides to church, and each sat down in front of the 
pulpit, by the side of her respective betrothed, but in a 
manner that would have made you laugh, as each one 
was more anxious than the other to keep at a 
respectable distance. After the prayer meeting (for it 
was the weekly prayer meeting day), the three couples 
stood up in the presence of the congregation, and were 
solemnly married. Then came the benediction, and, 
headed by the missionary and his wife, the whole 
congregation shook hands with the happy couples, 
wishing them much joy. We then all separated, the 
brides going out at the one door, and the bridegrooms 
at the other, as if nothing had happened. We were 
just in the heat of the arrowroot-making, but as I stood 
a minute to speak to some one at the church door, 



232 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



fancy my surprise when, on entering the house, I found 
one of the bridegrooms with a big sheet full of 
arrowroot on his back ; he had thrown off his coat, and 
was thus giving a helping hand at putting past the 
arrowroot for the night. So you see we have no 
stealing away of the happy pair, no wedding tour, no 
honeymoon holiday ; but three couples are sensibly 
married, and seem well matched. Next day there was 
a big feast, almost like a welcome home, and the 
minister got his marriage fees, in the shape of two large 
pigs and five fowls, from two of the couples, and one 
fowl from the third, with the promise of something 
better by and by. 

It is rather unfortunate that our mail and our visit 
to Aniwa come together ; for while here I have such an 
amount of cutting and pinning of dresses, repairing of 
books, &c., while Mr Watt has school examinations, 
elders and teachers meetings, that our time is much 
occupied. Last week we had an ordination of five 
deacons one of them goes as a teacher to Tanna. We 
are also sending out another teacher and his wife to 
Futuna. Two years ago we sent out the first teachers 
from Aniwa, a couple and a single man ; and last year 
a couple left to help at Weasisi. (The first Aniwan 
teachers on Tanna were Natshia and wife, and Pavenga. 
The couple who went to Weasisi last year were Litsi 
sori and her husband Nuperau.) 

On Sabbath, 3rd August, we joined with the people 
in commemorating the death of our common Lord. 
We numbered from fifty to sixty, and were much 
encouraged to see the progress in the appearance of this 
band, compared with a similar company that sat down 



OX AXIWA. 233 



some years ago ; and we earnestly hope that the out 
ward improvement is an indication of advance in heart. 

1885. We have had charge of this island for four 
years, and this year we were much gratified by seeing 
the progress that had been made in the art of reading. 
We utilise the best readers by employing them to read 
the Scripture for the day, both on Sabbaths and at the 
Wednesday Prayer Meeting. It is amusing to see each 
take his turn. It may be an old man with spectacles 
in the morning and a child of twelve or fifteen in the 
afternoon. To be deprived of one s turn is regarded as- 
a loss, and to have one s name struck out is considered 
a disgrace. We baptised seven : five infants, one man, 
and his son about ten years of age. The man is by 
birth a Tannaman, but was adopted here in infancy. 
His name is Nesi, and he has been a notorious 
character. For years he was the dread of Mrs Paton s 
life, and a decided opponent of the gospel. Two years 
ago we spoke earnestly to him and he promised 
to reform. Last year he began to read, and we 
commended him for so doing, telling him to ask God 
to bless the Word to him. He has attended the 
catechumens class for a year, and professes to have 
undergone a change. As all the elders esteem him 
worthy, we have, at his own earnest request, admitted 
him to the membership of the church. He is a clever 
man, and we hope he may yet be a power for good in 
his own land. 

Till we came here, none had left the island on 
Mission service, as teacher or servant. Three years ago 
we sent three to Weasisi, and since then others have 



234 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

gone there. Last year we placed one couple at Port 
Resolution and sent another to Futuna. The man was 
an elder in the church, and very energetic, though far 
from strong. Alas, in a few short months, he and his son 
fell ill and died. . . . Even to write this, though 
months have passed, wrings my inmost heart. I feel so 
deeply for the afflicted woman losing first her only 
child, and then her husband, while she was a stranger 
in a strange land. 

On the 19th of August the " Dayspring " reached 
Aniwa, and our pleasant visit was at an end. The 
natives cheered us as we went off, with a thorough 
British " Hip, hip, hurrah ! " We had only eighteen 
miles between us and our destination, and as the 
weather was moderating, we thought we were sure to 
be there next morning. One night of cockroaches 
wasn t much ; and so comforted, we went to our 
bunks. But alas! next morning, " No landing at Port 
Resolution." " Well, let s try Weasisi." Away we go, 
and I feel the squeamishness vanish before the hopes of 
landing. Though we would be twenty miles from 
Kwamera at Weasisi, and might undergo great 
discomfort in the boat voyage, still, the present being 
disagreeable, we will shut our eyes to the future. 
Knowing that we are nearing Weasisi, I rush on deck 
just in time to hear the captain say, " No landing here 
to-day." To-morrow is Sabbath, we can do nothing 
till Monday. No landsman, none save those who have 
been in a wee 150 ton vessel in a stormy sea can 
tell how miserable one feels in such a position. 
Mai de mer, like toothache, elicits little sympathy, but 
both try the temper in no small degree. With her 



ON ANIWA. -235 



head to the sea, under easy sail, the poor tossed 
" Dayspring " ploughed into the waste of waters. I 
retired to my little stuffy cabin, where in a small bunk 
I got fixed or jammed, and, having my head down, 
felt comparatively comfortable. All that day, and 
Sabbath, and till three p.m. on Monday, we did penance 
in our floating, tumbling prison. 

On Monday we called at Futuna, and found the 
Gunns well, then stood away for Tanna, for now wind 
and sea were really going down. At break of day we 
stood in for Port Resolution, but the wind headed us 
off, then it fell calm, and it looked almost as if we 
wouldn t get landed that day. However, a gentle 
breeze brought us to Kwamera, and we took it first, 
though we knew that as soon as possible we should have 
to go back in our boat to Port Resolution. 

1888. Aniwa is a delightful place to land at. 
Although the sea was high outside, it was wonderful 
the shelter we got from this little, low-lying island. 
As we ran close along the shore we heard the glad 
shouts of the people rejoicing at our approach ; and just 
as the " Dayspring " was wearing round in order to 
lower her boat, one on shore called out in English : 
" Ready, bout"! 

What a welcome we got on shore ! But, as the 
vessel was in a hurry, we told them to show their joy 
by quickly getting some pigs, fowls, and oranges for the 
ship. This was soon done and all put into the boat, 
ready for a start. 

Every day has been well filled with useful work, and 
a o-ood amount of it. 



236 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

The forms or pews for which they have paid in 
arrowroot are expected by the " Dayspring " ; so we set 
them on to put a lime floor in the church, and also to 
thatch one side of the roof. While some were mixing 
lime, and plastering, the women and frailer men were 
making sugar-cane leaf thatch. What the Aniwans do, 
they do heartily, so in less than a fortnight all was 
finished. Meantime, I took ill with fever, and 
vomiting, and was very miserable for eight days. 
During my enforced retirement, the poor missionary 
was terribly worried, having so much to attend to. 
He was medical attendant, general store dealer, and 
overseer of labour ; had to hold session meetings and 

o 

general consultations ; and one day he had a marriage. 
Ill in bed, I had to direct the dressing of the bride ; for 
we always deck out the young couple, and they, in 
return, sometimes give us a present as a marriage fee. 
In this case, as they were people of some importance, 
we got a splendid porker, some fowls, and a pile of 
yams. Some one has remarked, that the advantage of 
receiving a present is, that you can give the donor far 
more than its value in return, and feel that you are not 
wronging him. 

On the Monday after the Communion we had our 
Thanksgiving service, at which we laid in front of the 
pulpit, as is the custom, the annual contribution of 
arrowroot. 

We received the boxes sent by Mrs Mackie, South 
Yarra, and Mrs Boyd, South Melbourne, and found 
them very useful. Seventy-three people had weeded 
and cleared all the Mission ground. We gave them each 
as much print as would make a lava-lava ; besides, we 



.V ANIWA. -237 



had eighteen regular sweepers of premises. Of three 
dozen dresses and fifty hats I had brought from 
Kwamera not one is left. Everything goes here. 
Why, even old shirt fronts or " dickeys " have been 
made to serve as garments. Two seamed together 
formed a little boy s blouse. Last Sabbath, while 
looking at some young darkies thus arrayed, walking 
out and in at their pleasure, during service, I thought 
how much harder a mother s life is at home, where the 
care of a large " small " family may keep her from 
church for nearly twenty years. Here no one is left at 
home. Whenever the mother can come the infant is 
brought, and the stirring " two or three-year-olds " do 
not tend to quietness in church. I carry a bag of 
broken biscuits and hush many an impatient spirit 
with them, until I am charged by the missionary with 
giving too much attention to the loaves and fishes. 
But I dearly love the little brownies, and often picture 
the time when their parents, having served their own 
generation and fallen on sleep, the promise will be 
fulfilled, " Instead of thy fathers shall be thy children." 

I have called this place my Bethany ; where, after the 
turmoil of Tanna, we enjoy comparative rest among 
more like-minded spirits than are in the " great land " 
(Tana sore). This year it is a perfect land of Goshen. 
I never saw food so abundant, large yams and plenty 
of them, while the orange crop has been so great that, 
as the natives express it, "They are weak to eat 
them." 

We expect the " Dayspring " any day now to take us 
to Tanna, and we hope and pray for good weather for 
our landing there. 



238 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

I am tired with writing to-day, so 1 crave you to be 
lenient in your criticisms and continuous in your help. 
Be not like the man of whom the Rev. R. M. Thornton 
of London told, who said, " I ve given a shilling a year 
for the last twenty years, and do you mean to tell me 
that the heathen are not converted yet ! " 

A. C. P. WATT. 



XVIII. 
A MONOTONOUS SUMMER. 

GENERAL LETTER, 1885. 

As the "Dayspring" will soon again be leaving for 
the colonies, I suppose you will look for a few more 
jottings from my daybook. So little to interest and 
encourage has taken place since the last "General" 
left, that I had almost made up my mind to write none 
this trip ; but the deep interest many express in these, 
causes me again to pen a few rambling sentences. One 
word would express all that has occurred in the past 
half-year, viz., Monotony. Nothing striking has 
occurred. Things go on in the even tenor of their 
way, we hope advancing ; but daily we feel how 
suitable the passage of Scripture is to our case, ".Ye 
have need of patience." Emphatically we have ; for 
the night of toil is proving long. In dark times I try 
to remember that the darkest hour often precedes the 
dawn, and thus hope against hope ; or else cry out, 
" Oh that my head were waters, and mine eyes a 
fountain of tears, that I might weep day and night." 
Not that crying does them any good, while it gives me 
a violent headache ! It makes me feel desperate at 
times to see so many going down to death eternal, and 
we cannot save them. Daily do I remember that 



240 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

hundreds of Foundry Boys and Girls say that they are 
praying for Tanna, and yet the light is weak. We are 
a small and feeble flock, while the heathen are 
numerous, and talk big, as in the Second Psalm. 
Nahi-abba has been raised up from the gates of 
death where he longed for and got our daily 
administrations only to return again to his heathenism. 
This is the time of year when feasting and dancing 
goes on, and so engrossed are the majority in these 
affairs that they have no ear for anything else. 

The past history of Missions on Tanna has been a 
sad one, and, in our experience, the present is not 
unlike the past. For instance, since the formation of a 
church we have lost two of the four who first joined us, 
and these the two youngest and most promising. Now 
this tells sadly on our work, as many say, " See how 
the Christians die ! They become Christians, fall into 
sin, and are cut off; therefore shun the Gospel, and you 
may live as you like." You and I know how silly such 
reasoning is, but yet we are altogether unable to uproot 
this belief. About a month ago, a young woman, who 
had identified herself with the worship, died, leaving a 
helpless infant. Her death, too, has been a sore blow, 
and has taken many away from attending the church. 
How foolish ! you say ; so do I, nevertheless it is true. 
" This people s eyes are closed, lest they see." Like 
the Church at Pergamos, we dwell where Satan s seat 
is. I would despair, did I not know that the Gospel is 
the power of God, and that it is that Gospel we preach. 

Had we but an outpouring of the Spirit, what an 
incoming there would be ! So many know the truth 
theoretically. We are like a ship ready waiting for 



A MONOTONOUS SUMMER. 241 



wind, every sail set ; but what if there is no wind ? 
" Ye have need of patience." . . . 

This has been the finest hot season we have spent. 
It has been quite unique ; and were all the seasons like 
it, half the misery of our life would be gone. We have 
neither had a blow, nor a big sea, nor an earthquake. 
Besides, I have enjoyed exceptionally good health ; not 
for years have I felt so well. This only confirms the 
medical man s opinion, that my trouble was on the 
nerves ; so, there being nothing to cause them to tingle 
has permitted me to enjoy perfect health. In the end 
of March and beginning of April, William had a severe 
illness, which ended in his vomiting a little blood. He 
had excruciating pain during the night previous to this 
occurrence, but after that he soon recovered. These are 
the times when we long for human sympathy, and 
would fain have medical advice. True, Dr Gunn is on 
Futuna, and we can see his rocky Ailsa-Craig-looking- 
island out of our windows, but fifty miles of ocean 
divide us, with no conveyance save an open boat. In 
all likelihood, going there would be impracticable, and 
so would his coming here, even although we could 
bottle up our sickness until he arrived. In vain I try 
to persuade William that Ave are getting old having 
been seventeen years in the Mission field, and that soon 
we must retire. He, however, shows me how some of 
our New Hebrides folks were as old as he when they 
entered the field, and yet laboured for over twenty 
years. So I have to keep quiet. Rest will be very 
sweet when it comes ; that is, if I can rest. 

January and February were filled up with the 
monotony of daily life cutting and sewing dresses, 
16 



242 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

reading proof sheets, correcting and printing Exodus as 
iar as the end of the Ten Commandments, making and 
printing a number of new hymns, which brings our 
collection up to sixty-nine. The chief favourite 
among the new ones is " The Great Physician." I 
must send home a copy to the Glasgow Foundry Boys 
Society, from whose Press they were printed. . . . 

The event of March was the opening of the new 
church at Ituko, where Yamen was settled in the end 
of last year, and where we have had more to encourage 
us than at any previous station. Almost without 
exception, every man, woman, and child lent a willing, 
helping hand in its erection, and that without any hope 
of fee or reward. On the 26th of March the place was 
formally opened, by our going up and holding a 
service in it. We arrived in the afternoon, the people 
there having prepared food for us and ours. We made 
them a present of fifty calico girdles, besides shirts and 
women s dresses and other small articles. They gave 
us four pigs and fifteen fowls. We gave returns for 
these next day, as we wished ours to be a free gift, 
showing our appreciation of their good-feeling. 

In the evening, we had a Magic Lantern display to a 
crowded house, people having come miles to see it. 
The pictures were explained, and in that way we hope 
some heard the gospel who would not attend a service 
either in church or the open air. i 

We could not get home, so had to remain all night. 
We were a party of twenty-two, and slept in the 
church. We had just settled down comfortably when 
all sprang to their feet, shouting "yasuk, yasuk" (a rat, 
a rat !) This, you may be sure, drove all sleep from 



A MONOTONOUS SUMMER. 243 



our eyes, and, like Paul, " we wished for day." In vain 
I tried to compose myself ; my fertile imagination made 
me apprehensive of rats on every hand. At last I took 
refuge on the preacher s platform, and although it was 
only four feet long and railed on three sides, I contrived 
" to double myself up a wee ! " I had some snatches of 
sleep, now and again awaking to realise where I was, 
have a look round on my sable companions on the floor 
below, or listen to hear if William were sleeping or not. 
We burned a Rowatt lamp, the gift of that generous 
friend, now no more : and each group of natives had a 
fire, round which they slept. In the morning I rose 
refreshed, but poor William had never slept a wink. 
We got some of the past day s food warmed up, and 
had a " bite " before we left. We made speedily for 
home, whither we were soon followed by nearly the 
whole population, who had intended to escort us, had 
we not stolen a march upon them by getting away so 
early in the morning. All that day we held a levee ; 
William being loth to lose so good an opportunity of 
conversing with them on various and vital subjects. 
But, alas, we had to pay for it. I had to go to bed 
with a rending nervous headache, and William was 
never quite well from that time until he vomited the 
blood. 

In April, there was a triple cold-blooded murder- 
within two miles of our door. Three men, all 
relations two of them being father and son were 
shot and clubbed to death by relatives, who lived in the 
same village, and drank kava together nightly in the 
same house. They were reputed to be takers of nahak, 
and had given some other cause of offence; so they 



244 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

were summarily dealt with. But as it was like a. 
family quarrel, and nearly all acknowledged that they 
ought to die, it caused no excitement. The nearest 
relatives were the murderers. Had others done it, they 
would have been the avengers of blood. The whole 
thing has passed away without even being a nine days 
wonder. . . . 

The "Day spring" brought me forty-seven letters! 
Wasn t that a feast ? But I had to wait a wee before 
devouring them, as our friends Mr and Mrs Robertson, 
and our new fellow-labourers Mr and Mrs Charles Murray, 
had come on shore to see us. Though always glad to 
entertain visitors, we are specially so when they come 
as these did, through a rough sea. Mrs Murray was 
drenched with salt water. It did my heart good to see 
such a thorough Scotch woman. Though, like 
ourselves, supported by the Presbyterian Church of 
New Zealand, and thus in a special sense our fellow- 
labourers, they will not work on Tanna, but take up 
the standard on Ambrim, in place of their brother, 
Mr W. B. Murray, whose failing health has obliged him 
to leave the field. His case is sad ; having studied for 
long years to specially qualify himself for the work, and 
then, when almost reaching the goal, to have contracted 
the disease which has cut off his Mission life ere it was 
well begun. God s ways are mysterious ! 

After lunch our friends left, and we sat down to our 
mental feast. Before midnight I had all my letters 
devoured, but not without inducing a most excruciating 
headache. Really, how much pain can be compressed 
into a small head ! Once and again I poured cold 
water on it, but the relief was only momentary. 



.4 MONOTONOUS SUMMER. 245 

However, sleep came to the rescue and soothed the 
pain. Next day it was nearly gone. . . . 

October 20th brought the cry of " Sail oh ! " at break 
of day. But alas, the :< Dayspring " is carrying her flag 
half mast high. This kept us in suspense, wondering 
what evil tidings she wished to prepare us for. On the 
"boat reaching the shore Ave heard of the sudden death 
of Mrs IngHs. In her a mother in Israel has passed 
away. To us who came here in the somewhat early 
days of the Mission, her house always looked like home. 
We also heard that Mr W. B. Murray had entered into 
his rest. He lay down at night asking for refreshing 
sleep, being in great distress through shortness of 
breath. His prayer was heard, for ere day dawned he 
passed calmly and peacefully away. " So He giveth 
His beloved sleep." 

God s ways are truly very mysterious, for to our minds 
Mr Murray was peculiarly well fitted for work, and we 
thought him a great acquisition to our Mission ; but 
the Highest has decided otherwise, for just as he had 
girded on his armour, the call came to enter into his rest. 

. . . By the afternoon all our goods were stored, and 
after an early cup of tea, William went on board to 
visit Aniwa, and I read letters till 

The wee short hour ayont the twal." 

Next day I had Yamen in to open one of the Foundry 
Boys boxes for the precious Hunter s Cough Mixture, 
to give to a poor little baby that was suffering, and 
keeping its parents awake as well. Ten drops that 
night procured sleep to all parties concerned, and in 
less than a week the cough had disappeared. 



246 AdXES C. P. WATT. 

On the second day William returned, having been to 
Aniwa and set up a tank there, then on to Port 
Resolution and landed a tank there. I fancy that tank 
did good, for now the people see that we mean to live 
there. They seemed to look on us as interlopers, 
coming into their missionary s house and claiming his 
tank, when really it was more theirs than ours. A few 
days after that, we went round to Port Resolution by 
boat. Fortunately, we had a fine day, but even with it 
all, Nalupas and Naurne, my bedroom maids, Avere both 
sick. The latter being quite unable to look after her 
two-year-old baby, I took little Toi in my lap, and with 
my strong arms round him he was comforted ; for this 
was his first voyage by boat. We got round in good 
time, and received a very hearty welcome. The 
following day the people helped us well in getting the 
tank uphill and into its place. On both Saturday 
evenings we have had native puddings brought to us 
for our next day s dinner. On the second Saturday, while 
some boys and girls stood round, one remarked that it 
was cooking day ; and I said, " Oh, dear me, I forgot to 
order a pudding for to-morrow." Fancy my amazement 
and gratitude when a woman brought one at sundown, 
and on my remarking how opportunely it had come, 
she replied that her little son had told her to make it, 
owing to my remarks in the morning. Wasn t it good 
of him ? 

You remark in your letters that surely we are never 
done thatching or whitewashing. Well, note that we 
did neither during our two last trips to Port Resolution. 
But we put on the storm-rigging this last visit, and 
were reminded by the teacher that we will require to 



A MONOTONOUS SUMMER. 247 

re-thatch next year. Oh dear, isn t it trying, and yet 
what can we do ? 

Through the generosity of friends, we have been able 
to be much more liberal of late. One and another 
have got clothing from us. About a month ago, we 
sent a parcel to an interesting district called " Isumu," 
where a form of worship has been kept up for a long 
time, and where Kauraka, a Tannaman, has a grass 
church, assembling a few people every Sabbath, although 
he never received any pay from us. He cannot read, 
and has small knowledge of the " way of life," but still 
he gropes away. While we were at Epi this year, 
Narpai (one of our old girls) and Matthew made a 
runaway marriage, and fled to that district. After 
being there for a few weeks, of their own accord they 
took the lead in conducting service Narpai reading 
the Scriptures and leading the hymns (for she is a 
splendid singer), and Matthew addressing the people. 
God can and does make use of very unworthy means 
for His own purposes ; and we pray that even this dim 
light may do something to illumine the surrounding 
darkness. They sent lately for books (you know the 
Tannese have a great dread of books), and when we 
sent them we sent also some shirts, women s dresses, 
and handkerchiefs as turbans. The shirts came out of 
the Green Street boxes and the handkerchiefs out of 
the Foundry Boys box. We feel deeply grateful to 
Miss Brown and others in Great Hamilton Street 
Congregation, and our old tried friends the G.F.B.R.S., 
for sending us such valuable clothing. We are thus, 
reminded that we are not forgotten, and reproved for 
our lack of faith. While we are plodding along, 



"248 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

thinking we are forgotten, kind hearts are planning, and 
nimble fingers are sewing surprise gifts for us. There 
was one item in Miss Mackay s parcel specially prized 
by me, and that was the "Life of General Gordon." 
In a place like this, where nothing happens, where 
letters are months old when we get them, and where 
new books are rarely seen, such a book is worth its 
weight in gold. . . . What a spice of novelty there 
was about it ! I read it at once, and have enjoyed it 
very much. If you could only read through my 
present mail of thirty-five letters, you would find that 
much of Gordon s experience and many of his sayings 
have taken a deep hold on my mind. I cannot help 
feeling that in many ways his experiences and ours are 
the same, while some of his remarks are so strikingly 
applicable to our circumstances that I cannot help 
repeating them. 

The Bible says that he who soweth, weepeth ; and 
I believe that invariably the sower has the mournful 
part to perform, for he must wait and maybe even die 
ere the reaping time comes. I have been thinking 
a great deal to-day of that passage of Scripture, 
" Blessed are the dead which die in the Lord : . . . 
they rest from their labours ; and their works do follow 
them." I infer that though their works do follow 
them, they often have not seen the fruit of their 
labours while on earth. "One soweth and another 
reapeth," but I can t help envying the man who reaps. 
We have laboured long, we have spared no pains, we 
have shrunk from no danger in seeking the salvation 
of Tanna. Once and again have we hailed a gleam of 
light, thinking it the dawning of the day ; as often have 



A MONOTONOUS SUMMER. -249 

we seen it fade away and the darkness grow more 
intense. 

I fancy we are down in the valley of humiliation 
just now. Two years ago, and for months before that, 
we had over one hundred at our principal service, and 
we had grave thoughts of " letting out " our church to 
accommodate the increasing numbers. A young lad 
died; his father believed he was killed by "nahak," 
and all we could say was of no avail. The father and 
a band of armed men came down, and, a few yards from 
our door, riddled with bullets a poor defenceless man. 
That caused a scattering of the tribes and a thinning 
of our congregation from which we have not yet 
recovered. Last year sickness and death were busy, 
and several who had identified themselves with the 
gospel were cut off in the prime of life ; that raised 
a hatred to the worship which has not yet subsided. 
This year one of our two male church members fell into 
sin, and has taken to kava-drinking. This has been 
the hardest blow of all to me, for while I grieve at 
seeing the advance moving so slowly, that is as nothing 
compared to witnessing this going back. I am doubly 
thankful that Naurita (the other male church member) 
retains his integrity and proves a true friend to us. 

You have all heard of Nahi-abba, our notorious chief. 
He has always been opposed to the gospel, but 
nevertheless sent his wife to church. Last year he was 
at death s door, and begged for medicine, daily visits, 
and prayer. He recovered ; his first act was to perform 
a heathen rite on his son, shun us in every way, and 
indeed let us know that we were not wanted. Again 
he became sick ; we again visited and prayed with him, 



- 50 AOXES C. l\ WATT. 



giving him cordials and medicine ; once more he has 
recovered, only to be tenfold more a child of hell than 
before ; and now he has forbidden his wife to come to 
church, and is doing all he can to prevent others. 
Thus far he has been successful, for the lads in his 
village have not been to church since his wife ceased 
coming. "Render unto Caesar the things that are 
Caesar s " is the Saviour s command, so we always pay 
him deference as the chief, and give him a small 
present each time the "Dayspring" comes from the 
colonies. Though we knew from others of his more 
decided opposition lately, still we took no notice of the 
fact, and sent him the usual " custom dues " as I call 
them. Nancy took the present along a piece of calico, 
some biscuits, and a piece of salt meat. He received 
them graciously, but so far he manifests no softening 
towards our message. As I have already told you, "an 
eye for an eye" is the law on Tanna, When any one 
gets medicine from another he invariably pays for it. 
As a rule we get something in recognition of the 
medicine we give, but in Nahi-abba s case we don t 
even get thanks. Whether, if he were a Christian, his 
influence for good would be much, I cannot tell ; but 
his influence for evil is very great. " The king s heart 
is in the hand of the Lord," wherefore I entreat you, 
my friends, to make him a special subject for prayer. 

Oh, for a Pentecostal shower ! Nothing but an 
outpouring of the Holy Spirit can cause the long-sown 
seed to grow. I want the Foundry Boys en masse to 
pray for Tanna; not in a general way, but that this 
very year the dawn may come. The Tannese are 
unique in their long resistance to the gospel. Forty 



A MONOTONOUS HUMMER. 2f> I 

years ago, the good news came to Tanna. The} 7 drove 
Turner and Nisbet away ; they withstood the eloquent 
pleadings with tears of a Paton ; they resisted for 
thirteen years the exhortations of a Neilson ; and they 
have tried to weary us out. 

To us, indeed, they are quite respectful ; they admire 
our kindness, nay, more, they say our message is good ; 
but " how can we give up the customs of our fathers ? " 
Again I beseech you, " Pray for them." After the long 
years of sowing, with the vast amount of Scripture 
knowledge they have, and the way in which news 
spreads like wildfire over the island, if we had a revival, 
you would hear of one of the grandest incomings that 
have yet been witnessed in the New Hebrides. . . . 
Whether the reaping time comes in our day or not, we 
know that we belong to the "Ever Victorious Army," 
and that sooner or later Tanna will be won for Christ. 
There is a day coming when both " he that soweth and 
he that reapeth may rejoice together." . . . 

AGNES C. P. WATT. 



XIX. 

AN ILLUSTRATED LETTER 

GENERAL LETTER, 1886. 

In this " general " you will be surprised at my going 
over the past, but as the circle of readers has enlarged, 
and many of them know little of us, I think it well to 
give some account of ourselves and our establishment. 

A lady who joined our Mission a few years ago, on 
becoming intimate with us, told me how surprised she 
had been to find on her arrival that there were no gray 
hairs on our heads. On my asking " why ? " she said 
that when she was a little girl in the Sabbath School, 
she had heard of the New Hebrides and Mr and Mrs 
Watt of Tanna, so naturally expected to meet two 
staid, gray-haired people. In the same way, some may 
wonder what we are like, when told that we have been 
seventeen years missionaries ; and would like to see 
such lions. 

Here is a copy of our photographs, taken by Fergus 
of Largs in 1879. There are people in the world who 
think that missionaries should never seek a holiday until 
worn out. So many of our fellow-labourers have from 
time to time returned home pale, thin and shattered, 
that it has become an understood thing that foreign 
missionaries should appear so. When we visited Sydney 



.Y ILLUSTRATED LETTER. 



253 



a few years ago, one and another said to us, "Why have 
you come up ? you don t look sick." I replied that the 
climate of the New Hebrides had got such a bad name, 
and so few would join us, that I had come up to bear 
witness to the goodness of the climate, and so see if I 
could induce others to follow me. In the same way, 
our photographs may encourage some to think seriously 
of casting in their lot with us. We have the most 




un-get-at-able station in the group, being on a weather 
shore; and many a scare has been experienced in 
landing here. I fancy so much wind and salt spray 
must be conducive to health, and, judging from our own 
experience, would say that this is a healthy station. 

The salt spray is not at all pleasant ; for it rusts 
every bit of ironmongery, and keeps us constantly 
cleaning windows. Every fresh blow sends up clouds 



2f>4 A INES C. P. WATT, 



of spray which drift inland like steam, and so dims our 
windows that we cannot see out. It is very destructive 
also to plants, for after a strong breeze everything has a 
blasted look. Hence we have only grass in front, with 
a border of soil round the gravel or coral walks, while 
our shrubbery is at the back of the house, in the square 
formed by our dwelling-house, store-rooms and work 
shops. 

What is our house like ? It is weather-boarded 
outside and lathed and plastered inside, with a 
thatched roof. The weather-boards, studs, flooring, 
doors and windows are from the colonies. The 
thatch is New Hebridean, and so is the lath and 
plaster. The former is made of flexible branches or 
young saplings ; the latter is coral burned. When we 
first came down in 1869, we got whatever is colonial of 
two rooms, and by degrees, as we found it necessary, we 
added thereto until the place stands as you see it. The 
main house consists of bed-room, dining-room, parlour, 
and study, with four small " leans-to " on the ends of 
the verandah, front and back, forming two bath-rooms 
in the front, and a pantry and box-room at the back. 
Of the two houses forming the sides of the square, that 
on the right is the store-room, and that on the left the 
printing-office, workshop and yam-house ; both, as you 
see, are connected with the main house by passages. 
The doors and window-frames are all painted inside and 
out. The annual outside painting is no joke ; for so 
strong is the sun here that in less than a year not 
a particle of oil is left in the wood ; it would therefore 
spoil if we did not repaint it. The weather-boards 
outside and the plaster inside are all whitewashed with 



AGXES C. / . ir.47 7 . 



coral lime. That too means much labour. Were it not 
that in employing a lot of people you are bringing them 
under your influence and providing them with the means 
of honourably working for clothes and other necessary 
things, besides teaching them new and useful arts, you 
would often feel heart-broken at the amount of manual 
work needed to keep up a station. The thatch roofs 
alone are a great labour, expense and trouble, and after 
all, they only last from four to five years at Kwamera, 
even when there has been no hurricane to damage 
them. At Port Resolution the one we put on two 
years ago has already begun to leak. The best thatch, 
and that which we use, is sugar-cane leaf tied on a reed 
about four feet long, forming long fringes. These are 
laid on in rows overlapping each other, and tied 
severally to the rafters by cinet. On our main house 
we have as many as two thousand reedsful, and when 
last we thatched, as many as ninety women were employed 
making it. Imagine, if you can, the stir ; and oh, what 
a mess I Oh, ye who dwell under slate and other 
lasting roofs, think of us having our whole house 
unroofed up to the ridge-pole, time after time, dirty 
rotten thatch* falling in every direction, while scaffolding 
and greasy natives crowd up your rooms. Woe betide 
your bits of treasured furniture or gifts, if down comes 
a tropical shower ! 



* In some of the northern islands, thatch is much more durable. 
When well made and put on closely, a roof will last for many 
years. I have seen thatch which was at least fifty years old, but 
that was largely due to the preserving action of the smoke and 
heat from fires inside the house. T.W.L. 



A N ILL US TRA TED LETTER. 257 

Another constant trouble is the putting on each 
December, and taking off each April, of the storm- 
rigging. That consists of poles of wood put on like 
network, and tied with strong creepers. Under the 
wood we lay rows of old reed fencing, partly to make 
it more secure, but chiefly to keep the wood from 
rotting the thatch. The soil here is so damp that we 
have found it absolutely necessary to have a new reed 
fence put round our premises every year, else our 
place would be overrun with pigs these creatures 
being allowed to run about loose. When new the 
fences look very pretty ; they are of light, open 
basketwork. Some fifteen to twenty women bring 
about two hundred bunches of reeds, and five or ten 
men put up the fence. I suppose we will have about 
four acres enclosed. 

All this thatch-making, roofing, reed getting and 
fencing, cleaning and sweeping, and the knowledge 
that all has to be paid for in goods clothing and 
ironmongery will lead you to infer that we require 
some storage room, and can utilise well a box or two of 
mission goods. Many a time I have wished we could 
do with less house-room, though indeed we find the 
house too small when the " Dayspring " sends in a 
number of people who more than once have been 
detained by wind or sea. (While I write this, the wind 
is howling and the sea running high, the poor wee 
vessel tossing to and fro in sight, but no landing. I 
sincerely pity those on board.) 

Again, when you remember our numerous connections, 
teachers, helpers, boatmen and general parishioners, 
who are all dependent on us (for we rarely see a vessel), 
17 



258 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

you will not wonder that we need every nook and 
cranny in which to store away goods. Besides, we only 
get supplies twice a year, and have to be prepared for 
emergencies shipwreck or hurricane. Our grounds 
are not too large when you think how numerous our 
staff is. We have seven grass houses for native 
accommodation, besides a house for fire-wood a most 
necessary thing in wet weather a fowl-house and goat- 
house. These latter will commend themselves to you, 
seeing we are 1200 miles from market ; and unless 
we provide creature comforts we can not have them, 
and will not live long. So in order to labour we must 
live. Housekeeping here is no play; for not only must 
you invent comforts, but with native help you must be 
at the beginning, middle, and end of everything 
yourselves. 

At present Ave have, living on our premises, two 
married couples, four children, two single men, five boys 
and four girls. There are nineteen entirely dependent 
on us besides Naurita (the late Yemeitahak s husband, 
and Paipai his mother). Naurita was an inveterate 
kava-drinker, a savage and a cannibal. Now he is a 
consistent church member, and we believe a true and 
sincere Christian. Paipai too is a church member. 
Here is a specimen of our girls, and another of our 
boys. They are fed, clothed, lodged and educated by 
us, and in return do what they are bid. The girls act 
the part of table and pantry-maids, sew, and keep each 
a part of the premises clean. The boys clean knives, 
brush boots, rake the gravel walks, clean goat and fowl- 
houses, and feed the fowls. 

Houye is our present poultry-man. He is a handy 



AX ILLUSTRATED LETTER. 



259 



fellow in the printing-office, and one year he was very 
proud when he received a sovereign as his year s salary. 




YEMEITAHAK 



AND NANCY (p. 258). 



But I hear some say, " Why keep so many on your 
premises, seeing they involve you in trouble and 



:><;<) AGNES C. P. WATT, 



expense, as doubtless fewer would give you all the help 
you need?" True, but the absence of appliances to 
lighten labour, and the many departments needful for 
life, render more hands indispensable than in civilisa 
tion ; besides, think of the sweltering heat \ However, 
the main reason is Tanna is a hard field, and except 
by taking them into our establishment, we have found 
it difficult to get any one to wait on regular instruction. 

Another " connection " is our boatmen. These are 
indispensable; for, as a rule, we visit Port Resolution by 
boat, and on this weatherbound coast a good boat and 
trusty seamen are required. During the past hot 
season we have visited Port Resolution by boat six 
times, and twice overland. 

Speaking of our staff, I mentioned teachers. Of 
these, we have six on Aniwa and three on Tanna. The 
latter are supported by the Glasgow Foundry Boys 
Religious Society. Niath is at Port Resolution, 
Nalvatimi at Meiyahau, and Yamen at Ituko. Narpai 
and Matthew are at Isumu, but they are not recognised 
teachers. 

June 17th. We have now been ready for the 
" Dayspring " for a week ; and having a breathing time, 
I devoted it to writing the foregoing. While in the 
middle of my story, the cry of " Sail oh ! " caused me to 
fling down my pen and rush out to the welcome sight. 
Welcome to us, snug on shore, but our joy is mixed 
with grief, seeing the weather is such that the 
passengers cannot land ; and we know from experience 
that they are in a sorry plight: crowded in a small 
stuffy cabin, seasick, and knocked about in their bunks 
with the rolling and pitching of the vessel. Next day, 



AX ILLUSTRATED LETTER. 



261 



just after breakfast, " Sail oh ! " and until twelve o clock 
hopes of a landing. Then it began to blow, and the 
"Dayspring" went further and further away, till four 
o clock, when she was out of sight. All my preparations 
for dining a goodly company were useless, and until a 
week had elapsed we heard no more of her. On the 
24th, she was seen between this and Futuna, and the 




HOI SK ,\T K \VA.MKKA ([). 258). 

weather was fine. On the 25th, Nahi-abba shot a man, 
a little to the west of us, in revenge for a friend of his 
who had died. 

We were sure we should see the " Dayspring " on the 
Sabbath, if all was well, and so were much grieved on 
the Saturday to see the sea rising again. Just after 



*262 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



morning service on Sabbath, we saw the poor wee 
"Dayspring" off here, with a big sea running and the 
wind high. I wonder if you can imagine how much 
our Sabbath rest was broken by thinking of and 
pitying our friends on board. We rested but little that 
night. Next morning, it was still blowing hard, but 
the wind was veering round to the north, and our 
hopes rose. By mid-day it was well round, and in the 
afternoon the landing began. Three boats brought all 
ashore twelve adults and five children. The single 
gentlemen occupied our store-room, which was for the 
time arranged as a "barracks." After the tumblings 
-and tossings at sea, every one was more pleased than 
another to be on shore, and expressed their joy : so 
we were a happy company. 

Next morning at nine o clock the Synod meetings 
began, and by four o clock Mr Paton left in the 
"Dayspring" for Noumea, to try and get to Sydney in 
time for the Federal Assembly. We would all have 
liked could he have stayed longer, but " time and tide 
wait for no man." Our company at table now 
numbered eleven (for we had a separate children s 
table), and continued so till that day fortnight. 

During that time " work, work, work " was the order 
of the day, from six in the morning till twelve at night. 
Church bell for native worship at 0.30 a.m. ; at 7.15 
we met in the parlour for family worship ; 7.45, 
breakfast ; and at 9.30 the Synod met and sat till 
dinner-time, 1 p.m. The afternoons were occupied 
with committee meetings. Tea at 6 p.m. Then 
usually all were busy with printing, writing, transcribing, 
or committee work. Several I rarely saw, save at 



264 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

meal-times. Such a Busy Bee never was, as the one 
we held here. Mr Murray set up a Primer of twenty- 
eight pages in the language of Ambrim, and that 
meant many a weary hour s work for him. William 
corrected the type, while Mr Lawrie, Houye, and 
others printed it off and distributed the type again. 
Mr Robertson and Mr Lawrie also had leaflets 
printed. 

On Thursday, 30th June, baby Gray fell asleep. 
Next forenoon, we had a service in church, and buried 
him in a plain deal coffin, made by his father. We 
felt much for our brother and sister in their trial, but 
were very glad Mrs Gray had not been left alone at 
their station. In the afternoon, when the Synod met, 
we heard reports of stations, all encouraging. On Emae 
or Imai, the work is wonderful. Two years ago, all 
were heathen cannibals, now many are learning to read, 
and the teachers are much blessed. 

Though our Mission is small and when compared to 
Africa or China, the New Hebrides are insignificant 
still, some of the greatest triumphs of the gospel have 
been accomplished here. According to their means, 
our converts will compare favourably in liberality with 
converts in any other field. 

On Sabbath we had a good attendance at church 
the Isumu people having come all the way to see the 
missionaries. In the evening we celebrated the Lord s 
Supper, Mr Murray preaching, and Mr Laurie dispensing 
the elements. We had a happy time, although 
saddened by remembering Mrs Fraser and Mrs Murray, 
who had been with us at the same feast last year. 
Later, we held a concert of sacred music ; the 



^.V ILLUSTRATED LETTER. 



265 



missionaries singing in English and the Tannese in 
their own language alternately. All agreed in saying 




HOUYE FROM A PHOTO TAKKX IN MELBOURNE (p. 258). 

that the native singing was the best ; for the hymns in 
English were not particularly well known to us all ;: 



A<;NES c. P. WATT. 



while the natives were in full force, knew their hymns 
well, and sang heartily. 

On Friday we held the Bible Society meeting, and at 
the close several of our people, teachers and helps, 
contributed. Kaiasi gave ten shillings last year, and 
the same this year. Very good, I say, seeing a native s 
salary is only 4 ! Vahai and Nalvatimi both gavel each. 

Our boys and girls were sorry, when the others 
contributed to the Bible Society, that they had no 
money. Afterwards, when the missionaries gave them 
presents, instead of buying gay handkerchiefs and 
beads, they made a thank-offering to the Glasgow 
Foundry Boys Society, in most cases of their all. It 
amounted to 13/. I was much pleased with Nancy s 
unselfishness. She had got I/ from two different 
persons ; the others had given I/ and so had she, but 
Riser who cleaned the knives had been overlooked, and 
so had no money, yet was longing to join in giving. 
Well, Nancy gave him her other shilling, and enabled 
him to participate in the pleasure of giving. 

As Tanna has long been looked upon as a specially 
hard field, we asked our friends to join us and pray for 
a special blessing on this island. We spent the evening 
of Sabbath llth thus, each one joining in turn. I 
liked an expression in Mr Fraser s prayer, that " from 
henceforth we may not think of Tanna as a hard field, 
but as a field for which we have prayed." Yes, I fear 
too many have looked upon Tanna as hard, and so have 
done nothing for its evangelisation. As of old they 
say, "Can any good thing come out of Nazareth?" 
" Can these (dry) bones live ? " It requires more faith 
to preach to dry bones than to living men. 





TANXA WOMAN. 



268 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

On the 15th the "Dayspring" returned from 
Noumea, but too late to take off our visitors, so we 
spent the evening singing hymns, supposing it to be 
our last together. Next day the sea was so rough that 
the captain sent word that no one was to come off. In 
this way we had another "last evening," but half 
expecting to have our friends till Monday. However, 
on Saturday morning the wind and sea had fallen, and 
H.M.S. "Opal" and the "Dayspring" were both off 
here. The captain of the former kindly sent word that 
he would take Mr Kobertson to Erromanga, Mr 
M Kenzie and Mr Eraser accompanying him. Immed 
iately after breakfast all left except Mr Milne and Mi- 
Murray, who went off in the last boat. Thus ended the 
meeting of 1886, but we trust that the results will 
continue to all eternity. We enjoyed the society of 
kindred spirits immensely, and were gratified by 
thinking we had made them comfortable. Our helps, 
both Aneityumese and Tannese, rose to the occasion, 
and there was no hitch in the arrangements. Indeed, 
they were far better than colonial servants, who are said 
to grumble at visitors. They made common cause of 
our meeting, were delighted to exert themselves to 
make all comfortable, and expressed great grief when 
they left. Mr Murray s loneliness has elicited many 
expressions of sympathy. Poor fellow! he will feel 
very much alone on Ambrim. Mr Fraser had left his 
two wee motherless bairns on Erromanga. What a 
sad time he had, when left with an eight-day-old son I 
He made a coffin for his wife, and alone, among black 
people, laid her in the narrow house. Side by side 
she arid her infant daughter lie. Jessica had died 



AN ILLUSTRATE]) LETTER. 269 



shortly before, while Mr Fraser himself had a serious 
illness. 

Seeing we had so enjoyed congenial society, and had 
such a lot of it all at once, you can imagine the blank 
we felt, when, after seeing the last safe on board, we 
re-entered our deserted home. 

It was Saturday, and the porker I had got killed for 
Sunday s dinner had to be divided among our darkies. 
But alas, ere I had commenced giving my directions, 
the yells of the people caused me to rush out and away 
up the banks of the neighbouring stream. There I was 
reminded that we were still on dark deluded Tanna, and 
that we needed strength from above and strong faith to 
face the stern realities of life. Sitting in the stream 
with a crowd of women around him, was a young lad who 
a few minutes before had been shot in the left arm near 
the shoulder. We ran for a dose of laudanum to 
relieve the lad s distress. Poor boy ! when he saw 
compassion on my face he began to cry. His father 
carried him home on his back, and he now lies in a 
precarious state.* This is part of the revenge for the 
man Nahi-abba shot the Friday before the missionaries 
arrived. It may interest you to know that the natives 
took out the broken bones and put a stick in their place. 

On Monday we dismantled our barracks, and soon 
our whole place resumed its wonted look. We are 
now packing up for a camping-out at Port Resolution. 
It takes no small thought to remember everything 
necessary for a five or six weeks stay in an empty 



* The lad recovered, and in about six months was again well and 
strong. 



270 AdNES C. P. WATT. 

house. The house is in such bad repair that we cannot 
leave things there, but we have now the promise of 
an iron roof for it. 

After visiting Port Resolution we come back here to 
await the return of the "Dayspring" from Sydney, 
when we are appointed to proceed to Malekula as part 
of a deputation to assist in the settlement of our 
nephew (T. Leggatt), who is to be known as the " Amy 
Gertrude Russell " missionary. A Victorian gentleman 
named Russell supports him in memory of his daughter. 

AGNES C. P. WATT. 

KWAMERA, July 30th, 1886. 



XX. 
EXTENDING THE MISSION NORTHWARD. 

GENERAL LETTER, 1887. 

The hot season of 1886-87 was to Mrs Watt a very 
trying time. It was less so perhaps among the people 
than in the mission house, where there was much 
sickness and anxiety. Mr Morton and myself with our 
wives being unable to open up our own stations owing 
to the lateness of the season, remained at Kwamera 
until April. Acclimation is never a pleasant experience; 
but when it has to be undergone in the unhealthiest 
season of the year, together with other illnesses, the 
result is distressing in the extreme. Mrs Morton had a 
still-born son in February, and my wife a daughter in 
March. Both ladies recovered but slowly, and Mrs 
Watt herself suffered from severe fever and ague with 
other complications, while Mr Watt was prostrated for a 
long time with a return of his old complaint, " vomiting 
of blood." What follows is best told in her own words. 

For weeks, nay months, before the vessel came, we 
rarely, if ever, all met at the table. Always one or two 
unwell, and oh how I longed for the " Dayspring " to 
come ! We were all a good deal recovered, when on the 
26th April the cry of " Sail oh ! " greeted our ears. It 
was like life from the dead. . 



AGNES O. P. WATT. 



On Friday 29th, the anniversary of our marriage day, 
we left Kwamera. We were a good boat-load four 
couples and a baby, with quite a number of natives, for 
we took two as boat s crew, two as house-builders, and 
Yecrimu to mind the baby. . . . 

Wednesday, 8th May. We left Epi for Ambrim at 
sundown. After tea, we had very vivid lightning, and 
I remained on deck till late, watching it. The sight 
was magnificent ; there was no wind ; all was still and 
peaceful. Being up late, I slept soundly, and knew no 
more till, about half-past two in the morning, I was 
awakened by the captain shouting, " Let go the anchor/ 
I knew something was wrong ; for we never anchor 
save in the daylight. Soon I learned that the current 
had carried us down on Ambrim, that we were close in 
to the rocks, and that some of the passengers were 
dressed, ready to take to the boats. I didn t wish to 
see our danger, so remained in my bunk. At daylight, 
I went on deck, but by that time a "kedge" anchor 
was out, and the boats pulling ahead. How relieved 
our minds were when we saw that we were slipping 
from the shore ! a little God -sent breeze gliding us 
safely off. Just when we were moving, a boat put off 
from the shore. At first the natives were shy, but when 
they learned that it was a missionary ship, they came 
on board. The captain gave them a present, and they 
returned on shore much pleased. The breeze was now 
freshening, and carried us along until we reached the 
anchorage at Mr Murray s station at one p.m. 

How much can be crowded into twenty-four hours ! 
During the night we realised that we were in imminent 
peril ; then the rebound of joy when deliverance came ; 




HOYS WITH YAMS. 



IS 



-274 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



now another sorrow awaited us. Our fellow-labourer 
from New Zealand was in sore trouble ; he had had 
fever, and looked so ill. The Landels, too, had suffered 
much ; they were but the wrecks of their former selves. 
Here, at Am brim, the Annual Meeting of Synod was 
held, we going ashore and setting out dinner, while the 
other meals were served on board, and all being 
prepared by the "Dayspring s" cook. The "Day spring" 
and " Cairndhu " lay here at anchor until Thursday, the 
2nd June, when we parted. The object of the 
" Cairndhu " was to settle Messrs Annand and Landels, 
and it carried, as a deputation, Messrs Mackenzie, 
Robertson, Fraser and Murray. With us in the 
" Dayspring" were Messrs Morton and Leggatt, on their 
way to be settled, with Messrs Watt and Lawrie as a 
deputation. The " Cairndhu " sailed for Malo, and we 
for Sasun Bay, Malekula. We found that the French 
priests had effected a lodgment there, but their presence 
only seemed to make the people more anxious for an 
English missionary. They said, " Man Malekula he no 
like French missionary, he no got boat, he no got wife, 
he no got piccanniny, he no got nothing." Their joy 
was great when they saw that T. W. L. had got all 
three, or rather all four. They gave him a good site 
for his house, plenty of good land, with fruit and other 
trees on it, beside a nice little stream of fresh water. 
For two weeks the missionaries and their sable 
assistants wrought late and early, first clearing the 
land, and then house-building. They left the ship at 
six a.m., and returned at six p.m.. their dinner being 
sent ashore to them. When beginning the house, it 
was discovered that there were no nails. What was to 



EXTENDING THE MISSION NORTHWARD. 275 

be done ? We had a few, Mr Morton could spare a few 
more, but still we were short. Gladly did we remember 
that Mrs Mackie of Melbourne always sent nails for 
Aniwa. We got up her box, opened it, and found a 
splendid parcel of nails. How pleased we were, and 
how opportune ! 

On the 20th June, we left them very comfortably 
settled. That forenoon we visited the nearest native 
village. We saw an exchange of pigs take place, over 
which there was a good deal of ceremony. First there 
was a great beating of native drums, then a conch was 
blown, and a pig held shoulder-high for some time ; 
another blast of the conch, another pig offered, and so 
on till all had been presented. Why was this done ? 
Was it an offering to the gods ? What more followed 
we did not see, for they let us know that we were not 
wanted ; but after we left we heard any amount of 
conch blowing and shouting. 

Though we bade Mr Leggatt adieu on the 20th, we 
were not to sail till the next morning, so we rose before 
daylight and went ashore to have another peep at 
him and his wife, then off to breakfast and away to 
Pangkumu, further up the coast, where we landed the 
same day and visited a large village. The chiefs house 
here was remarkable, having an immense bird on the 
wing carved in wood on the ridge pole over the door. 
The whole village was enclosed by a coral wall, and 
the chief s house was within a second wall. We wanted 
much to get seeing through his sanctum, and tried in 
our best broken English to make him understand, but 
in vain. At last we discovered the secret ; he objected 
to us ladies going, but willingly took the gentlemen. 



276 AGNES 0. P. WATT. 



The next day was a big day ; we searched for a site, 
visited a village a good way off, saw a magnificent public 
square, near by which were no fewer than forty-five 
images painted in green, red, and yellow colours. 
Each would be from eight to ten feet high, ornamented 
with a human face. The road to and from the village 
was level and broad, and 1 enjoyed the walk. Another 
day we went to see the young chief, Netinmar, who 
constituted me his friend, and got several clubs for me. 
He was such a nice young fellow, and so polite ; one of 
nature s gentlemen. Having got a site for Mr Morton s 
house, we had to return to Ambrim for the timber, and 
were one night at sea. Again there was sad news 
awaiting us. Before our anchor was down we 
were met by a boat in charge of Mr Norrie, the chief 
officer of the " Cairndhu," who told us that that vessel 
had been wrecked on Malo. I have not time to tell of 
our surmises as the boat approached, of our suspense 
while Mr Norrie told of the wreck, of the dread lest 
any lives were lost, or of the sense of relief and the 
fervent "Thank God!" when we knew there was no loss, 
save of the ship. Our first impulse was to hasten at 
once to the rescue, but we were already crowded, and 
heard that the Malo people, like those of Melita, had 
showed the shipwrecked people no little kindness. 

Monday was a busy day, missionaries and natives all 
working to the utmost of their strength, and the 
"Dayspring" people doing their best. Thus we were 
ready for sea on the next day, and I wish you could 
have seen our little "Dayspring." So crowded was 
every inch of room that I hid in my bunk, not wishing 
to see the confusion. The poop and main deck every 




ITIILIC S^TAKK, .MALEK( T I>A. 



278 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

corner, indeed was lumbered up, and I feared lest we 
should have a night at sea. But God is good ; He 
knew our frames, and so tempered the wind that in a 
few hours we were again at anchor at Pangkumu. 
From Wednesday till the Thursday of the next week 
all wrought late and early. On that day the Mortons 
goods were sent ashore, and after dinner we bade them 
adieu. The wind, however, was towards the bay, and 
we could not get out ; but early next morning we lifted 
anchor, and were away for Malo. We made Malo 
early, but the wind falling light, we could not get up to 
the anchorage. A boat was sent ashore, however, to 
relieve anxiety with regard to the search-party, for they 
had been gone so long, and had had a very trying 
voyage. The wind had been high and the sea rough, 
and they had been driven hither and thither for three 
nights at sea. At one place the savages had put off in 
canoes to come to them, and they had had a shark 
biting at their oars most persistently, although they 
fired at him. Truly they deserve great credit for their 
pluck. 

We felt keenly for Captain Eyre when he boarded 
us. Those who were in the ship when she went ashore 
speak very highly of his disregard of self in seeking to 
save the cargo. 

We visited the Landels in their new home, and were 
much pleased with the people of Malo.* These 
northern islanders seem much less savage and heathenish 
than those down south. Though the vessel was wrecked. 



"They do not improve, however, "on a longer acquaintance. 
T.W.L, 



EXTENDING THE MISSION NORTHWARD. 27 

and might have been looked on as a " God-send " to 
them, these Malo people stole nothing and treated our 
people with courtesy. 

As soon as possible Mr Annand s goods were got on 
board, and we, with very lumbered decks, made for 
Tangoa, Santo. While waiting for the " Dayspring " the 
deputation had gone by boat ; and, rafting over some of 
the timber, had laid the lower wall plates of Mr 
Annand s house. On the day of our arrival the studs 
were set up, and that day week the house was so far 
finished that we could leave them, which we did on 
Thursday, the 21st July. They have got by far the 
finest station of the four new ones, and so nice are the 
people of Santo that I wished I were being settled 
there myself. No one could feel nervous among such 
quiet, ducile people. The bad name these people get 
makes one suspicious of them ; but at each settlement 
we were more and more pleased with our reception. 
We could hardly realise that they were heathens and 
cannibals. 

We were all night at sea between Tangoa and Malo r 
where w r e took on board all the cargo of the "Cairndhu" 
and her crew. We spent a delightful Sabbath at 
anchor there, having a service of song in the forenoon 
and worship in the evening. 

From Monday till Friday we were beating up against 
a headwind. Fortunately I was not sea-sick, and 
enjoyed life on board. I read much of Dr Parker s 
Inner Life of Christ." His way of putting things 
charms me. ... At Emai we were again laden to the 
utmost limit with arrowroot, yams, &c., so that there 
was not a corner left. I should have mentioned that 



280 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



ten of Mr Mackenzie s people, having heard of the 
wreck of the " Cairndhu," had come in a boat to 
Tangoa to look for him. These we had on board, so 
that, with our own " Dayspring" party, the shipwrecked 
people, and this boat s crew, we were over fifty in 
number. Every room, every bunk, every available 
corner was occupied as sleeping quarters, the very 
galley and the cabin floor being crammed full. . . . 
During two tumbling days I read Bishop Hannington s 
Life. It has a strange fascination for me, and I am 
intensely interested in his journals. What a bright 
active Christian he was ! Although the Robertsons 
were only returning home after a long absence, yet 
they invited us all on shore, and we spent a very happy 
time. During the night, Korkor, an Aneityumese 
man who had been with Mr Murray on Ambrim, and 
who had been taken on shore to die, passed away to his 
eternal rest. He gave testimony to his faith in Jesus 
and his hope of eternal life. Now he is among the 
blessed dead, yea, rather, among the living who have 
died, whose works do follow them. He did good 
service in the Master s cause on Ambrim, though he 
was " only an armour-bearer/ His body now rests 
close by the graves of the martyred Gordons and the 
sainted Macnair. " Precious in the sight of the Lord 
is the death of His saints." 

We left Erromanga on Thursday, and reached Aniwa 
on Saturday, the 13th August. We landed about four 
in the afternoon. Mr and Mrs Lawrie and two children, 
and Messrs Eraser and Murray kindly accompanying 
us on shore. We had a busy evening rigging up and 
extemporising beds for all in the empty house. All 



EXTENDING THE MISSION NORTHWARD. 281 

were willing to make things pleasant, so everything 
went smoothly. The natives gave us fowls and yams 
for Sabbath, and one good friend sent us a big manihot 
(manioc or cassava) pudding. In the evening we had 
some fine hymns, and every one seemed happy. 

Seeing that the people here get so little attention 
from missionaries, and have to stand so much alone, we 
were anxious to get our friends to spend the Sabbath 
with us. This they did, giving us much pleasure, and 
I trust profit too. You know how keenly I feel for 
these poor sheep ; do you wonder then that the depths 
of my heart were stirred when Mr Fraser read his text, 
" Fear not, little flock " ? Mr Murray followed, his text 
being Isaiah xli. 6, " Be of good courage " ; then in the 
afternoon Mr Lawrie spoke. All three addresses were 
most appropriate. After dinner we itinerated, visiting 
the Sabbath schools, and were followed about from 
place to place by many. We spent a delightful hour 
that evening. Each of the four missionaries sang a 
hymn, read a portion of Scripture, and engaged in 
prayer. The shadows of the parting on the morrow 
hung dark and heavy over me, and I was glad that no 
one referred to such events, but directed our thoughts 
to the cross of Jesus, the love of Christ that passeth 
knowledge, and the boundless comfort the Lord gives 
His Church ; also to the power of prayer. Such a day 
and such an evening are " Elims " in our wilderness 
journey. . . . 

AGNES C. P. WATT. 



XXL 

TOILING ON. 

GENERAL LETTERS, 1887-88. 

A missionary s wife once said to me, "It is easy for 
you to write interesting letters, there is always some 
exciting event ; a great war, or a cold-blooded murder 
taking place on Tanna, and that gives you something 
to write about. It is not so with me here, where all 
goes on in the even tenor of its way, and I find nothing 
to make a story about." Well, I am happy to tell you 
that for once I am in the pleasant position of having 
no sensational news to record. Since I last dropped 
the thread of my narrative, no war, no murder, no 
exciting event has disturbed the delightful lull on 
Tanna. I cannot point to any great advance, but there 
is a growing dislike to war on the part of our people. 
Perhaps the last six months have been the happiest we 
have ever spent on Tanna. We landed on the 26th 
of August from our northern trip, and were met by 
an unusually large number of our parishioners. We 
heard of fewer declensions during our absence, and 
experienced greater comfort among them. This happy 
state of matters has continued ever since. Our good 
reception, after landing, was some compensation to me, 
as it was very rough ; and I did pity those who had 



TOILINd ON. 283 



to return to the ship in blinding rain, wind, and a 
heavy sea. It was two days ere they were able to 
return with the remainder of our goods. On Wednesday 
we gave a present of salt and soap to all our people, 
in accordance with the wishes of some friends in New 
Zealand who had supplied the same. Two days before, 
we had paid all our helps, and fortunately all were 
pleased with their pay. Whether that and the 
subsequent gifts may have had something to do with 
it, I cannot tell, but on Sabbath two backsliders 
resumed church-going after an absence of six years. 
My diary expresses my wishes, " May the incoming 
begin now ! " 

The morning of Monday, 5th Sept., was very wet, but 
on its clearing up we made an early dinner and started 
for Port Resolution, with a boat s crew and working 
party of fourteen. Next day we went to Weasisi, where 
I kept Mrs Gray company while Mr Gray returned to 
Port Resolution with William, to assist him in roofing. 
I was anxious about those two gentlemen while keeping 
" bachelor hall," but I found all my fears had been 
groundless, as the people had risen to the occasion 
and kept our band fully supplied. Daily did they 
contribute yams, puddings, and drinking cocoa-nuts, 
gratis. Indeed, the repairing of this house seems to 
have been owned of God to further His cause. The 
people realise our love to them, seeing we have spent 
so much in making this house habitable. They look 
on it as our joint property ; hence they carried up all 
the iron, wood, and bricks free of charge, supplied us 
with daily rations of food, besides making us a present 
of a pig, fowls and yams. On giving them some fish- 



284 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



hooks they expressed amazement, and said they had 
only done a little towards the good cause. 

On Sabbath, 23rd October, the old ship was seen, 
and on Monday she landed our goods and iron for the 
roof of our church at Kwamera. This is the year of 
the Queen s Jubilee, while I call it the " Iron year " ; 
for within twelve months William has assisted at no 
fewer than six iron roofs, so he may be called 
"experienced" in that branch. To show how smartly we 
do things, I 11 tell you this. The iron was landed, as I 
said, on Monday. That same night, at evening school, 
all were told to undo the thatch at daybreak. One 
half of the roof was covered on Tuesday, the other on 
Wednesday, and the ridge capping put on by Thursday ! 
But that meant working from six in the morning till 
six at night ; the missionary being the head and the 
centre of all, while his wife, acting as Lady Bountiful, 
provides and divides meals for all. . . . We eat not 
the bread of idleness. I can say, like Paul, "in 
labours more abundant," and as the end of each week 
comes, I feel that we have not lost a moment. 
Whether all will stand the fire as pure gold, or only 
prove to be wood and stubble, the day will declare. At 
least we do all for the Master ; and He who rewards 
even the cup of cold water will doubtless accept the 
offering of our whole energies. I live for Tanna 
(indeed many think I have Tanna on the brain), and 
will die for it, if need be. Can you wonder that we 
love the Tannese ? Although they have opposed the 
gospel till they have become a proverb and a byword, 
and have by their waywardness sorely tried our faith, 
yet they are a most affectionate people. Besides, one 



TOILING OX. -2S.1 



can never tell how much is being done in a quiet way 
on Tanna. Could you but hear our hearty singing, and 
see the people here turning out twice daily to worship, 
would you not think that seed was being sown? We 
are strong in hymns on Tanna ; we have over seventy ; 
and doubtless our people sing well. " Bright, beautiful 
home" is an immense favourite with the young folk. 
The children may not sing skilfully, but they obey the 
other injunction of the Psalmist and sing " with a loud 
noise." The iron makes their voices resound clearly, 
and sometimes we are almost deafened. May they all 
join in the " Hallelujah Chorus " above ! 

The early months of this year were dark and gloomy ; 
much sickness prevailed, my hands were too full, and 
I was prevented from attending to my usual mission 
work. The later months were bright and cheery ; our 
people were open to instruction. At Port Resolution we 
have classes three times a day, and much encouragement. 
At Kwamera several more have resumed church -going, 
and above all, Tero has decided to refrain from a 
heathen rite on his son and grandson. We hope for 
two more. This, if carried out, is a very decided 
advance. Two of the boys are already clothed (a sign 
that they are to escape), the other two await our 
return. In eighteen years we have only rescued three. 
Clothing is a badge of Christianity. When one begins 
to worship he puts on a garment, and if he becomes 
disaffected, one of the first acts is to lay aside the 
cloth. 

A little girl, the other day, seeing a picture of the 
" Holy Family," exclaimed, " Why has the Virgin Mary 
no garment on her child ? " Some think we put too 



AGNES C. P. WATT. 



much importance on clothing, but I cannot imagine 
Christians going about naked. 

1888. 21st April. The Dayspring " left us on the 
21st December, and we were to be alone for over 
four months. Do I hear you ask, What have you been 
doing during all these months of uninterrupted quiet ? 
Well, I hardly know how to begin, or how possibly to 
tell you. Month by month, week by week, and day by 
day, Tanna alone its people and its interests has 
absorbed our attention. Perhaps the most important 
part of our season s work has been translating. We 
have spent a great deal of time over it, but I am happy 
to say that we have now the whole New Testament 
gone over for the first time, and are now engaged in 
revising. We have two pundits, both of them 
satisfactory ; and we hope during this year to get all 
re- written and ready for the press. 

We have also been doing good work with the Glasgow 
Foundry Boys Press. The want of paper and binding 
material has crippled us, however. The number of copies 
printed was 250, and part of these on coloured paper. 
We had to use ordinary print cloth for binding. For 
weeks the missionary stood at the composing-case or at 
the printing-press, the result being a new edition of our 
hymn book and catechism in one. We have made 
additions to our catechism, including the Apostle s 
Creed, terms of communion, two short prayers, and 
questions on Bible names similar to those in Willison s 
Mother s Catechism. We have also added three new 
hymns, so that our hymnal now contains eighty-two 
pieces. The Tannese are passionately fond of music, 



TOILING ON. 287 



and the demand for new hymns is endless. Ofttimes 
they listen to us while at worship, and if the tune takes 
their fancy, they give us no rest till we make a hymn 
to suit it. Though to some ears the Tannese language 
may sound harsh, yet I can assure you I feel the power 
of many of our hymns quite as much when sung in 
this barbarous tongue as when sung in English ; and 
we hope and pray that the singing of the Gospel will 
prove a source of glad tidings to many. One of our 
newest hymns, " Take my life and let it be," is a great 
favourite, and also " Jesus is mine." The latter is the 
work of a Tannaman, Kaiasi, and is the first instance 
we know of a native in this group translating a hymn. 

How easily one writes and another reads the words, 
" we have printed a new edition of our hymn book and 
catechism," but how few of you can guess what an 
amount of time and how much labour it costs ! We 
bound up the whole of the edition printed this year, 
and with the exception of some fifty copies all are now 
in use. We have also printed and bound a new edition 
of our Primer. 

. . . This year, the dread of books, so common on 
Tanna, seems to have broken down. It was pleasant to 
see so many anxious to get a book. At Isumu, 
Pavenga, the teacher, has forty in constant use. I told 
you before of the interesting movement at Isumu, 
under Matthew and Kauraka, and how we got a 
teacher from Aniwa for them. We settled Pavenga 
and wife early in January, and have been much 
encouraged with a school and good church attendance. 
We spent a very happy night there and had a magic- 
lantern exhibition. I confess I did not relish the bed 



288 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



all 011 a slope, for it took all my time to hold on. 
Of course, I had been sea-sick on the voyage, and after 
our arrival we spent hours telling them of the good 
news, and singing hymns. God knows the spirit was 
willing, although the flesh was weak. Pavenga lives 
there constantly, and on the first Sabbath of each 
month we send a deputation from here. We have no 
drones in our hive ; for our cook, herdsmen, &c., all 
take their turn itinerating. Every Sabbath they 
conduct service at several villages for miles around, and 
once a month there is an exchange as far as Isumu. 
At Port Resolution this is not practicable, so we sent 
Matthew and Narpai in January, Vahai and Ripa 
following them in February. They have had encouraging 
meetings for worship, reading, and singing, on all days 
of the week. We have also had boarders from Port 
Resolution and Isumu for some length of time to give 
them further instruction. 

... At Kwamera our morning and evening school has 
been particularly encouraging. Houye left in a labour- 
vessel and sent back a letter to Naswai, which seemed 
to give a new impetus to learning, for they saw the 
advantage of being able to read and write. We have 
had between thirty and forty present nightly (almost 
the whole near population). The writing class was the 
most popular. We gave three whole days each week 
entirely to the natives. I cut garments on the one, and 
taught sewing on the other two. We made thirty 
patchwork counterpanes, and one hundred and twenty- 
one dresses, besides men s and boy s jumpers. The 
patchwork quilts they got for the making, and each got 
a dress for helping to sew the others. I find the cutting 



TOILING OX. 



heavy work, but I get so much more out of the material 
than if I entrusted it to them, and we can ill afford to 
lose any by waste. I often wonder where all the dresses 
go to ; for although we make so many, the demand far 
exceeds the supply. A new tribe have, as they express 
it, " taken the worship," and the cry then for clothing is 
great. This tribe, the Kapitevemi, has heretofore stood 
aloof, and as they are reputed to be the chief disease- 
makers, they are much dreaded. We cannot say that 
they have taken a very decided step yet, but they turn 
out en masse to service on Sabbaths, and refrain from 
work on that day. In this respect they act better than 
two tribes between this place and theirs, who have long- 
had teachers, and who, knowing what is right, persist in 
doing what is wrong. . . . 

We have had what we call a pleasant season ; no 
hurricanes, only very slight earthquakes (although they 
have had very severe ones at Port Resolution), no war, 
and the general health has been good. . 

The 1st of January was a Sabbath. On that day we 
had the Communion. On the previous Friday we 
baptised five, Matthew and his two daughters, Narpai, 
and an old woman called Kaku. On Sabbath the three 
grown up people joined with us at the Lord s Supper. 
Matthew grieved us sorely some years ago by breaking 
off from the catechumens class, and falling deeply into 
sin. Our joy now at his return and decided advance in 
Christian character is consequently great. He is a most 
faithful itinerant preacher ; and when lately he and our 
cook went to hold a service inland at a new village, and 
only saw the backs of the fleeing people, he followed them. 
Meantime the fugitives had laid a barrier of wood on 
19 



290 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



the way, warning them not to go beyond. When he 

came to it he gave a look to his neighbour and said, " Let 

us be strong and go." They removed the obstruction and 

walked on. When they reached the public square they 

found all the men gathered inside the kava-house. One 

entered at one door and the other at the other, and so 

cut off all way of escape. The fugitives, feeling safe from 

all interruption, seeing they had laid down the barricade, 

which they judged sufficient to deter the preachers, 

had gone into the kava-house to rest and twist their 

hair. Fancy their amazement when these two men 

confronted them ! Neither party spoke for a considerable 

time, and the fugitives looked very angry, but Matthew 

broke the silence by saying, "We are ready to die if you 

like to kill us, but we are come here to have worship." 

One, more hardened than the rest, replied, " You 

cannot have worship here, and hinder us from getting 

on with twisting our hair. You drove us out of our 

own village, and now you follow us here." The silence 

thus broken, Matthew discoursed on the vanity of all 

earthly things ; especially what was purely heathenish. 

The result was, worship was conducted, although some 

showed ill-feeling by refusing to close their eyes during 

prayer. They asked Matthew what he meant by thus 

hunting them ; did he mean to drive them to the other 

side of the island? It is a common thing on Tanna 

when you arrive at a village to see numbers vanish into 

the bush rather than endure worship. An amusing 

incident occurred lately. A man who lives quite close 

to us sent a request for a fathom of dungaree for a 

waist-cloth, to come to church in ; his little son having 

previously joined us. We, of course, gladly gave it, but 



TOILING ON. 291 



three Sabbaths passed and no Taake came. On the 
evening of the fourth Saturday we sent Matthew to try 
and persuade him, for we know that, if unwilling to 
come, our approach would be the signal for him to flee 
or hide, whereas Matthew could go round by byways 
and through the bush, and so come on him unexpectedly. 
When Matthew entered the village, he found that 
Taake was still in the public square, so he sat down 
and waited patiently for him. One and another offered 
to go and tell Taake and not keep him waiting, but 
Matthew said No, fearing if Taake knew he was there, 
he would not come. At length, just before dark, he 
came, and was reminded of his request and promise. 
He replied that it was true he had failed, but he 
intended to come on the morrow, even if he had not 
been reminded of it. After some friendly conversation, 
Matthew left, in high hopes of the morrow, but almost 
before he had time to deliver his message to us, the 
retreating form of Taake was seen in the darkness 
wending its way up the hill behind our house ; and so 
he went away inland to another village, where he 
remained till sundown on the following day. He 
stated that he feared Matthew would renew his 
pleadings on the following morning and he would not 
be able to resist him, so he took safety in flight. For 
days after that he scanned the path to see that none of 
our people were about, before he would venture to pass 
our premises. We have little doubt he intended to 
come when he first asked for the girdle, but that some 
one persuaded him not to join the worshipping party. 

You are aware that the Tannamen believe that they 
have the power to do everything by means of sacred 



292 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

stones called Nukue nari. The Bible runs contrary to 
all such beliefs, and it appears that Nahi-abba and 
others have been feeling sore at us for saying that God 
alone has all the power. Nahi-abba has been going far 
and near to get the sacred men to make a tidal wave to 
rush specially up the stream near here, and come down 
carrying our house out to sea. Many of the Tannese 
were quite excited, and could not sleep for fear of being 
washed out of their houses during the night. They 
stared at us in amazement when we and our Christian 
people said we had nothing to fear, as all was in God s 
hands and not in man s. We are not certain that they 
ever went through their ceremonies, as there were some 
dissenting voices ; but as the sea remained particularly 
moderate about that time, they thought it best to say 
they had not done so. They are loth to own that they 
are beaten, even when at their wit s end. . . . 

" All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy," and 
nothing but Tanna and its people tends to make one 
" cranky," so ofttimes we snatch a wee while for a 
quiet peep into a book. We are now reading the life 
of Mrs Prentiss. To me she seems such a real woman. 
In the world, fulfilling all its duties, yet not of the 
world. A thousand times have I thanked Mrs James 
Paton for the book. Lately, I enjoyed exceedingly the 
memoir of F. L. Mackenzie, also the " Seeking Saviour" 
by W. P. Mackay. Mr Chalmers tells the story of 
"Life in New Guinea" well, and the illustrations 
enhance the value of the work very much. How 
intensely interested our people are in the pictures ! . 

AGNES C. P. WATT. 



TOILING ON. 293 



P.S. Ladies proverbially put their most important 
news in a postscript ; hence do not wonder that I have 
failed to tell you of the change on " terrible Tanna." 
Lately there have been several severe shocks of 
earthquake at Port Resolution ; and living there, we run 
the chance of going up in a chariot of fire, for we have 
now two volcanoes instead of one. On the 20th April 
there was a tremendous earthquake, and one side of the 
bay was again uplifted a considerable number of feet. 
What was once sea-room is now high and dry. We 
have not seen it, and have only had a very slight shake 
at Kwamera. Rumours of the change having reached 
us, we sent a trader to learn the exact truth. He 
brought a letter from a teacher residing there, who 
states that the water at the bar of the harbour will now 
only allow small vessels to anchor. The ground on 
the west side of Yanikahi was rent and torn in all 
directions ; but although many had narrow escapes, no 
lives were lost. . . . 

Don t we live in exciting times ? but how comforting 
are our Saviour s words, "Let not your heart be 
troubled." 

A. C. P. WATT. 



XXII. 

"AND THEY WENT FORTH AND PREACHED 
THAT MEN SHOULD REPENT." 

GENERAL LETTER. 

December, 1888. 

I have already told you that there has been a 

severe earthquake and upheaval at Port Resolution. It 
seems there had been a second on the 24th of June. 
The two upheavals have completely changed the 
harbour ; indeed, we might almost say that the harbour 
has ceased to exist, as only small steamers can now 
come in with safety. Here at Port Resolution we 
remained six weeks, then we had to go back to Kwamera 
to meet the " Day spring " on her return trip. We had 
a good deal of encouragement. The Sabbath services 
were well attended, and at the morning and evening 
school they were hearty. On moonlight nights we had 
quite a crowd, and on dark nights as many, nay more 
than we could reasonably expect, seeing the native 
paths are crossed and re-crossed with roots, and that 
the natives have a great fear of ghosts. They bring 
torches, and it is a fine sight to watch the lights 
flickering and flashing as the natives wend their way 
through the bush. In respect of daily attendance at, 
school, the people here far outstrip those at Kwamera. 



THEY WENT FORTH AND PREACHED. 295 

There, only those boarded with us, or living on our 
premises, come regularly, but here all within a reasonable 
distance attend with commendable regularity. Besides 
teaching and direct Mission work, we had a busy time 
getting new fences and thatching done. All wrought 
heartily and with good -will, and we embraced many 
opportunities of speaking fur our Master. 

During these weeks we had oft-repeated requests for 
teachers for two hitherto unoccupied districts ; but as 
we have been sorely tried by the fickleness of the 
Tannese, we turned a deaf ear to all. At last a 
special pleader came, and we determined to visit the two 
districts and people. On Friday, 21st September, 
accompanied by our cook and his wife, we went to 
Yakwarur, where we met the entire male population. 
We enquired as to the sincerity of their requests, and 
they promised fair to attend school and learn to read. 
We then went inland to Ikurupu, but not finding the 
man who is the moving spirit in the desire for teachers 
there, we retraced our steps. On meeting him and 
some of his people on the way, we sat down by the 
road-side and heard his story. As in the last case his 
promises were fair, so we agreed to try and get teachers 
for them. We had a lovely day, bright sun but a cool 
breeze, and I was pleased with my walking powers. I 
had gone partly as an experiment, for if I stood that 
walk well, I had a long one in prospect. Often have I 
walked between Port Resolution and Kwamera, but 
have been so knocked up, that of late I have always 
gone by boat. Each voyage the strain on my nerves has 
been more trying than bodily fatigue. Besides, the 
people of Isumu had put up a new grass church, and 



296 AGNES G. P. WATT. 

wanted us to go and open it. The landing there is 
very unsatisfactory, and I was determined not to risk it 
again, so we planned the bold project of walking to 
Kwamera and spending a night at Isumu. Accordingly, 
we started, about a week later, on a Saturday, accom 
panied by our cook and his wife, who carried sleeping rugs. 
The morning was dull, but we enjoyed immensely the 
walk round the bay; I could not help saying " what 
feasts of delight we have in this world. On cool 
mornings I can think of nothing more inspiriting than 
the view in this bay. The mountain range in the 
centre of the island, suggestive of eternity; the calm 
sparkling water smooth as a sea of glass ; the clear deep 
impenetrable blue of the sky, and the surrounding 
landscape rich in tropical verdure and gayest colours. 
After we left the head of the bay we followed a well 
beaten track, and in due time reached Ikurupu. Here 
we got three guides, and, passing on to the next village, 
we met by appointment an old chief named Maruki. 
He has a son in Queensland who has professed his 
faith in Christ and been baptised, and has been under 
instruction with a Mrs Robinson. The old man 
was very glad to hear about his son, but shook 
perceptibly at meeting us. His one cry was, " Bring 
him home ! bring him home ! " We said, Yes, if you 
will allow us to settle him as a teacher, and you 
promise to worship. Oh yes ! he would do anything if 
only we would bring him home. After some further 
conversation we resumed our walk. The road now lay 
through a deep natural cutting of rock, something like 
the entrance to a railway tunnel, and a veritable 
" Balaam s Pass," suggestive of a terrible squeeze if a 



THEY WENT FORTH AND PREACHED. 297 



severe earthquake should occur while we were there. 
Soon we emerged at the top, for we were on the slope 
of a mountain, and I felt relieved when done with our 
almost subterranean walk. When we reached the 
summit we should have had a fine view, but the 
mountains were enveloped in mist. This is very 
disagreeable in a country where you brush against 
every plant and shrub ; and woe betide your shoes and 
skirts ; for soon you are as wet as can be. So thought 
I as we marched along our mountain path, but soon 
found we could be still wetter, for the rain began to 
descend in earnest ; and now all our care was to keep 
our rugs and changes of clothing dry. By piling 
bunches of leaves on the top of our basket we hoped to 
keep the rain out. On we trudged, our three naked 
darkies dripping from head to foot, and the water 
making their dark skins shine. Owing to war a 
great part of the road had become overgrown, and once 
and again we had to stand while a path was cut through 
the reeds. Thus in some bodily discomfort we pursued 
our way. By and by our guides could go no further in 
safety, and were doing all they could to describe the 
path, when a voice was heard ; so they called, and the 
speaker came forward. He proved to be a friend, and 
we were handed over to him, our three guides retracing 
their steps, while we went down hill to our destination. 
Coming to the beach I was in a sorry plight with rain 
and mud, so the first thing I did was to seek out a pool 
and wash some of my garments ; and by wringing and 
shaking them made all drier than before. Then 
kirplin along the shore, barefooted, I reached the 
church which was to be our home till Monday, whither 



298 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

the Missionary had preceded me, who under many 
difficulties had supplied a change of garments that were 
at least dry. 

On our arrival at Isumu, Pavenga, the teacher, and 
one or two of his pupils did their utmost for us. 
The firewood was wet, and it was hard to kindle. 
By and by, however, we had some water boiling in an 
old meat tin, and got some tea tin pannikins doing 
duty as cups and saucers. Thereafter the cook and his 
wife started off in the pelting rain for Port Resolution, 
to conduct the Sabbath services, as Niath, the teacher, 
had gone on a visit to Aneityum. Several of the 
people brought native mats and native skirts. With a 
bundle of the latter we made a pillow, and laying some 
on our reed bed 3 we spread our rug and hung up our 
indispensable mosquito netting. The drenching with 
rain acted as a soporific, arid we awoke next day quite 
refreshed. Though it still rained, we had a good 
congregation, and, besides the regular service, we 
talked and sang hymns the livelong day, being well 
repaid with such a crowd of eager listeners. We had 
only tea and sugar with us, but were well supplied 
with native food, and almost as soon as Monday s sun 
arose, one friend, of his own accord, brought us a fresh 
cooked yam for breakfast. After breakfast, morning 
prayers, and school, we packed up our rugs and 
resumed our march, accompanied by a band from 
Isumu. We walked leisurely, and talked to all we saw ; 
visited and prayed with several sick ones on the way y 
and finally reached Kwamera in time for an early 
tea. . . . 

On the 25th October we went to Imarakak. We 



THEY WENT FORTH AND PREACHED. 299 

took our boat to Meiyahau, and then walked up hill. 
We were a large and heavily-laden party. Some were 
carrying bedding and others garments for the new 
scholars; others, again, the magic-lantern gear. The 
people were expecting us, and on our arrival we found 
all the women engaged cooking. We rigged up our 
sleeping quarters and then unpacked our gifts. By and 
by the food began to flow in, and soon we had a pig, 
a pile of yams and taro, uncooked ; and a pig and 
twenty-five native puddings, cooked. We, on the other 
hand, gave a shirt to each man, and dresses to all the 
women and girls. Some of our Isuma friends had 
come to see the opening of the church. 

In the evening we had a most successful magic- 
lantern exhibition, from which our friends went home by 
torch-light. We found our reed bed much improved by 
having taken a cotton quilt with us, which we got from 
Mrs Anderson, Christchurch, twelve years ago. Next 
morning all came to school, and we started for home in 
the afternoon. 

We again left Kwamera on 2nd November, called on 
the way at Yakumaruan, and had a mid-day prayer 
meeting with the few who attended church there, and 
gave them a girdle or a dress apiece. It is the first 
free gift they have ever received from us. Thence we 
went to Imerakak, staying over night, and had good 
meetings both at night and in the morning. Thereafter 
we resumed our journey, accompanied by a numerous 
band of worshipping people. We took an inland road 
to visit a village and speak to -the people there ; and 
then on to Isumu. As we passed along, we invited all 
church attenders to meet with us in the school-house 



300 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

that afternoon, when we distributed over seventy 
garments. Each dress I fitted on, and you should have 
seen the unbounded satisfaction it gave to these 
daughters of Eve to be thus arrayed in gay print. 
Pavenga, the teacher, has what I call a school-house up 
at the principal village, and a church at the sea at 
Isumu. He is an Aniwan, and is by far our best 
and most energetic teacher. He is very natty, and had 
a nice reed bed put up, enclosed on three sides, and hung 
with pictures from the " Graphic." He has a congrega 
tion of ninety, and the people are very hearty. Next 
morning, when all were dressing for church, an appeal 
was made to me for more men s garments. Kapere, a 
notorious disease-maker, and a terror to all the people, 
had come to join our party, also a young man. Not 
knowing that we had spare shirts, the already 
worshipping people had rigged them out most 
comically in women s garments. This Kapere, if won 
over, will be an acquisition ; for, like Paul of old, he is 
well known for his opposition to " the way." We had 
meetings from morning till night. Up hill, down at 
the sea, and up hill again. The eager crowds and the 
heartiness of the people prevented us from feeling 
weary, and it was far on into the night before Bible 
stories and hymn-singing came to an end. 

Next day, after morning school, accompanied by a 
great band, we took the inland road through villages, 
and one by one our party bade us adieu as each 
reached his or her home, only a few remaining as 
guides, and among these Kapere. We had one heavy 
hill to climb, but, as usual, my good angels, the 
Tannese, helped me up. Passing through one or two 



THEY WENT FORTH AND PREACHED. 301 

small villages, we at last reached Yanasirei, a village 
nestling so beautifully at the foot of the highest range 
of mountains. Here Kapere made his first speech in 
favour of the gospel, and told that he intended to 
renounce the works of the devil. From Yanasirei we 
continued to rise up a spur of mountain, and, while 
doing so, Kapere described a tragic murder that had 
taken place on that road during the past year. Yeru, 
a man from Meikasaru, had been visiting at Isumu, and 
was returning home, some friends convoying him, 
native-like, in single file, each one laden with food or 
firearms. They went up this way, Yeru leading. But 
a plot had been laid to kill him in revenge for certain 
things he was supposed to have done ; such as causing 
the volcano ashes to fall in a certain direction and spoil 
their yams. He was shot as he reached the summit 
of the hill, just when he would get the first view of his 
home in the distance. He ran back a few steps, calling 
for his son to be brought to him ere he breathed his 
last. Many of his party fled in terror, but a few 
remained (Kapere among them) while life ebbed away. 
They carried him carefully back to Isumu, and buried 
him with all due respect ; for he was interred in the 
kava-house in the public square. As we trod the path, 
and were shown each spot, I confess I felt a little 
"eerie." But now we had a magnificent view. We 
saw, close by, the coast toward Kwamera, and, beyond 
the ocean, the island of Aneityum. Before us were the 
volcano and the harbour of Port Resolution. Looking 
a little round, we saw Sulphur Bay, Weasisi, and the 
far point of Tanna, Cape Clear : while across the ocean, 
in the same direction, lay Erromanga. Now we began 



.302 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

gradually to descend, and as we passed through the 
villages a wondering crowd of savages followed us until 
we reached Isarkei, where we sat down and waited 
Maruki s arrival. The public square here is very 
picturesque, and there is evidently a large population. 
After some time, our old friend came, and it was 
interesting to see how changed he was. The first time 
we met him and told him about his son, he shook with 
fear ; now he welcomed us with open arms, and pointed 
out a site near the public square where he would build 
a school-house, were his son to come home. If the son 
is really a converted lad, what a power he might be at 
home ! but I fear lest the great force of heathenism 
around should draw him aside, and he relapse into his 
-original state.* Maruki accompanied us to the next 
village, and from thence we found our way across to 
Port Resolution in time for tea, that being our first 
meal since sunrise. We felt cheered by all we had 
seen, and much encouraged. The great advantage of 
these journeys is, that we see and talk with people we 
would otherwise never meet. The more we know of 
Tanna, the more do we see how closely interlinked the 
tribes are, and how necessary it is that all should be 
influenced. I feel somewhat remorseful at the thought 
that we have not made many more such journeys. 
The fear of fever and ague, through roughing it, and 
war, have often deterred us. Besides, we have always 
had more than enough to do at our principal stations. 
Kwamera may be called the centre. There all the 



* The son did not return, and Maruki was shot some years 
after. 



THEY WENT FORTH AND PREACHED. 303 

printing, bookbinding, dressmaking, &c., are carried 
on. This year our New Zealand friends, by sending 
made dresses, have enabled us to do more for the 
" regions beyond." . . . 

We are having a long tack of drought and no 
prospect of rain, to procure which our deluded people 
are using all their enchantments. The supposed rain 
makers are being threatened with a violent death if 
they do not make rain quickly. 

I must tell you of another long walk we had to see a 
famous waterfall called Ifeker. We have heard of the 
falls for the last twenty years, and were anxious to see 
them, but as of Canaan of old " an ill report " had been 
brought up ; " the way was long," " we would never 
reach them," "we would be benighted," "the people 
through whose land we had to go were cannibals," &c., 
&c. But, undeterred, we prepared to go, for rarely had 
there been so long peace among the tribes. We rose at 
four and started at six a.m., acccompanied by four 
Christian natives. The morning was dull, and before 
we had gone very far rain came on, wetting the bush 
and us too ; and, to add to all, we went for half an hour 
off the road. Returning, we found the footpath and 
reached a village called Irromanga, where we were 
expected, and two men volunteered to go with us as 
guides. Two women and five girls also joined us; thus 
we numbered fifteen. Our path lay through level 
country until we came to the foot of the stream, at the 
head of which were the falls. Not wishing to wet our 
shoes we were carried across, and began to climb a steep 
hill. For hours we went on our mountain path, through 
villages and past plantations, till we reached the last 



304 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

village. Ere then we had made some very steep 
descents, and my heart sank as I thought of our return 
journey. Here our friend Naru-Niatengei joined us. 
Having heard of our passing inland, he set out in 
search of us an hour and a half after we had left his 
village. He at once offered himself as my bodyguard, 
and not even a proverbial Frenchman could have been 
more gallant than my dusky, painted companion. Now 
we were down to the level of the stream. We took 
note of the time as we went on our journey, so as to see 
how long we might safely stay at the falls. But, alas, 
we had taken six and a half hours to reach the falls, so 
there would be no time to spend there at all. We 
estimated the height of the fall at about eighty feet ; 
and I felt quite recompensed for my long walk by the 
grandeur of the scene. To sit down for ten minutes was 
all we could spare ere we retraced our steps. Mr Watt 
photographed the fall; but had the special correspondent 
of some paper been nigh with his camera, he would 
doubtless have secured some comical views worthy of 
"Punch." At each village a number of gaping, wondering 
savages had joined our party, until we now numbered 
fifty. When we got to the foot of the stream our friend 
and the big crowd left us ; and when we reached the 
nearest village we rested our third ten minutes, drank 
a cocoa-nut, and then pressed on, as it was already half- 
past four. Being too tired to walk quickly, we ran 
down and with an effort reached the head of the bay at 
seven o clock, having been thirteen hours on the way, 
and not forty minutes rest all day. Weren t we glad to 
hail our canoe and paddle ourselves home ? 

Although I have somewhat prolonged this epistle, 



THEY WENT FORTH AND PREACHED. 305 

still I cannot close without referring to the loss this 
Mission has sustained in the death of Kaiasi, who for 
the last ten years has been identified with us. He was 
one of the few remaining of the tribe Naraimene who 
received the missionaries fifty years ago, and he was 
the only one who professed faith in Christ. Nearly 
all his life he was on the Christian side. He learned 
to read and write, and gave a helping hand in all 
mission work, although he was only admitted to the 
membership of the church two years ago. When the 
Frasers joined this Mission, and went to Epi, he 
accompanied them, and Mr Eraser said he was as 
consistent a Christian as he had seen in the New 
Hebrides during his three years service there. After 
spending a year at home on Tanna, he again went forth 
to the high places of the field as a helper to Mr 
Leggatt at Malekula, where he died this year. Poor 
fellow, he was never robust ; but we hoped to have left 
him during our absence at Port Resolution, and had 
arranged for his coming home ; but the Saviour he 
loved and served has taken him to a better home. 
Mr Leggatt said that when dying he gave no uncertain 
indication as to where his trust was placed, and that 
during his life there, in dealing with a fellow-servant 
(an Ambrim lad and a heathen), he often put even 
a missionary to shame by his earnest endeavours to 
win him over to the Saviour. Though he has passed 
away far from his home, and no one near who could 
speak to him in his own tongue, his death has 
impressed the Malekulans, who say " he was a good 
man/ Nor will he soon be forgotten on Tanna, for he 
did a unique thing in this Mission ; he made a hymn 
20 



306 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



to the tune "Jesus is mine," which has become a great- 
favourite on the island. He lived to receive a copy 
of our new hymn book, in which his hymn was 
included. Often 1 think how his kindly eyes would 
have sparkled had he been spared to return and hear 
the eulogies passed on it by his fellow-islanders, and the 
heartiness with which it is sung everywhere. Thus 
within twelve months, one of the pioneers at each of 
the four new stations has died, and the ground has 
been taken possession of in the Master s name. 

Of Kaiasi it could be truthfully said that he loved 
his Bible. He was a diligent student of those portions 
which he had ; and once and again he contributed ten 
shillings out of his salary of Five Pounds to the British 
and Foreign Bible Society. 

The " Dayspring " has arrived before all our letters 
are written, and Mr Robertson has responded most 
heartily to our request for teachers, and has brought 
ashore two couples to-day, so that I will be able to tell 
you of their settlement when next I write. We have a 
busy season before us, preparing for leaving here next 
December. Pray for Tanna. 

Yours. &c., 

A. C. P. WATT. 



XXIII. 
CLOUDS AND SUNSHINE. 

GENERAL LETTER. 

August, 1889. 

On the last Sabbath of 1888, along with our teachers 
and Tannese church members, we commemorated the 
dying love of our Saviour. We were a small, yet 
interesting party, for we represented five different 
languages. Except the Erromangan teachers, who had 
lately joined us, all were familiar with Tannese, and so 
could enjoy the services. To say that Tanna is a hard 
field, is only repeating what you have already heard ; 
;how hard it is, none know so well as we ; but if even a 
few souls are saved, have we not cause to thank God 
and take courage? During the year, we have had no 
additions to our church membership, but, on the 
contrary, our losses have been great. Three church 
members have died within twelve months. . . . The 
whole of January and February and part of March 
were taken up principally in printing and binding 
one thousand copies of our catechism and hymn book. 
William spent hours daily in the printing-office, and I 
was glad to see it finished ; for several times, after close 
work with the type, he seemed to take an illness like 
lead poisoning. 

While the printing work was under weigh, we had a 
severe experience. On the 28th of January the sea 



AGNES C. P. WATT. 



rose very high, right into our premises, and it was with 
difficulty we got the boat dragged along into a place of 
safety. The wind did us comparatively little damage, 
but w r e have learned since that it blew down 
Mr Lawrie s new church at Aname, and also the 
greater part of Dr Gunn s house on Futuna, as well as 
his church, school-house, and other buildings. 

For the encouragement of the new teachers, and as a 
stimulus to those only commencing to learn to read, as 
well as for a break in the printing and other sedentary 
work at Kwamera, we packed up in the beginning of 
February for a week s tour among the stations. As we 
rounded a near point of land it seemed as if the whole 
of Port Resolution point were on fire. We learned that 
this was revenge, the people there having fteen credited 
with making the late storm. We spent Saturday 
and Sabbath at Yanatuan, and on Monday went to 
Yanumarer, where we had afternoon and evening 
meetings, and slept over night. Next day, after 
morning worship, we started for Port Resolution. We 
had great difficulty in getting there as the roads were 
so blocked with fallen trees and branches, that our 
progress was slow. Though exhausted w r ith the journey, 
on reaching Port Resolution we went to see the 
desolation caused by the fire. Two whole villages had 
been burnt to ashes, and the plantation fences thrown 
down. All the people had fled to the Mission premises, 
and were now herding together in the two villages 
nearest the Mission house. No lives had been taken, 
the enemy feeling that a destruction of property would 
be a fair revenge for the property they had lost by the 
gale. 



CLOUDS AX/) SrXSIIIXE. 309 



Leaving Port Resolution we retraced our steps, visiting 
Ikurupu and Imerahak by the way, and reached 
Kwamera exactly a week from the day of starting. 
Can you imagine what a week of such life involves, in 
bodily discomfort and mental exercise? Or can you 
realise the happiness experienced in feeling that we are 
following the example of Him who went about from 
village to village and preached the gospel ? Unlike 
Him, we cannot heal the sick, but we can alleviate 
human suffering as we go along, by prescribing for and 
praying for the afflicted. Had we only strength of 
body and means of travelling, I believe the more we 
mixed among the people the more good we would do. 

Nahi-abba, the chief here, who has hindered our 
work so much, and who has been so opposed to the 
gospel, had a severe illness last year, and as usual 
attributed it to Nahak, and blamed the neighbouring 
tribe. He nursed his wrath, and waited patiently for 
an opportunity of revenge. At last he determined to 
strike the blow. On the 15th of March he went to 
a neighbouring village, but left a message with the 
young men, that they were to shoot the man before 
sundown, adding, "If you do the deed, it is well ; but 
if not, I will shoot one of you instead of him in the 
evening/ It was Friday, and I was holding my weekly 
sewing class. We had wrought hard all forenoon, taken 
a rest at lunch-time, and were about to resume our 
sewing, when a conch shell was heard. In less time 
than I take to tell it, the whole population was in a 
state of intense excitement. The women threw down 
their seams, and some even left their infants while they 
ran to save their household goods, for no one knew 



310 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

what would happen next. The man was shot, but the 
avenger of blood might take revenge on any one, and 
soon the whole district might be in flames. While 
every one ran hither and thither I nursed the infants, 
and, like one of old, sat in the gate to hear the news as 
the events occurred. For weeks from that day there 
was nothing but war and suspense. The outlying 
families flocked into this district, and for many a night 
few slept. As for me, I spent the first night up to ten 
o clock pasting books, and proposed finishing the work 
the following day ; but about midnight I awoke in 
severe pain, and for six weeks I did no more active 
work. For five days I neither ate, drank, nor slept in 
any sense, and for four weeks thereafter the only sleep 
I got was when under morphia. The poet says : 

" They also serve who only stand and wait/ 

but the hardest of all service is waiting. This I 
realised fully when laid aside all these weeks. How 
we longed for friends and medical advice, while at the 
same time we sang, 

" I leave it all to Jesus, for He knows." 

By degrees I recovered strength and resumed my duties, 
and by the time the " Dayspring " arrived on the 7th 
May, I was fairly well. How late she was ! It was 7th 
May before she reached Kwamera, but she brought us- 
a fat mail-bag and our old friends the Patons. The 
"Dayspring" had no fewer than eight passengers, 
and of these three were new missionaries (Rev. 
T. Smaill, B.A., and Rev. J. and Mrs Gillan), whom we 
were specially glad to see ; for still there is room. We 



CLOUDS AND SUNSHINE. 31* 



had a pleasant although very short visit from our old 
and new friends, and were glad to see the Rev. Mr and 
Mrs Bannerman of Otago. I hope their visit will 
advance the interests of the Mission as a whole, and 
encourage the churches to send down deputations to see 
for themselves what is being done. We are not afraid 
of the eyes of the world, and feel that the better our 
churches know the nature and extent of our work, the 
more help and sympathy will we get. 

On the Monday after the " Dayspring " passed here, 
while we were revising proofs in the evening, about 
eight o clock, the cry of " Sail oh ! " startled us, and we 
rushed to the beach and found a boat about to land. 
This was a party from the U.S.S. Co. s steamer 
" Fijian " in search of help. The steamer had run 
ashore that morning on the other side of Tanna. Poor 
fellows 1 they had had twelve hours hard pulling to get 
here, and arrived cold and wet, but were cheered by the 
accommodation we could give them. Next day 
William accompanied them in his boat, leaving here at 
seven in the morning and returning about nine p.m. 
He brought back six passengers : Hon. Mr and Miss 
Buchanan, Mr Stookes the Captain, and Mrs Groom 
the stewardess of the wrecked vessel. From October 
of last year until May of this year no boat had landed ; 
and we felt it might be very awkward for the 
shipwrecked party (nearly forty) if left here for such a 
length of time. They were fortunate in their 
misfortune, however, for on the second day, when we 
were looking for the rest of them, and were planning 
where the tents should be placed, a boat came round to 
tell that a vessel had been spoken to, and that it would 



312 AGNES G. P. WATT. 

take them off. The boat returned to the wreck that 
day, and it was arranged that the mission boat should 
follow next morning. During that night the S.S. 
" Tenterden s " lights were observed, and by means of 
blue lights her attention was arrested, and she was 
brought to the rescue. Having taken all on board at 
the wreck, she came round here and took away those 
who were with us. Thus on the fourth day after the 
wreck, help came, and we parted with our shipwrecked 
friends, who had proved so agreeable, that we were 
sorry when they left. I am sure they were glad to get 
away from these hostile shores, for the Tannese stole 
right and left at the wreck. The more we know of the 
Tannese, the more we are amazed at the peace we have 
enjoyed in this terrible land, and the less do we wonder 
at the little progress made. Like Uriah, we have been 
set in the forefront of the hottest battle ; but the battle 
is the Lord s, and He will look after His own interests. 
After the " Fijian " party left, the next big job was the 
arrowroot. We have made 1044 Ibs. ; the people 
working willingly and well. One day we had over a 
hundred helping. This is the contribution in free 
labour of the people here. 

We had invited the Synod to meet here, and were 
looking forward to it with some anxiety, as I had been so 
ill ; but our helps did well, and we were all ready for 
it when the members arrived on June 28th. As 
previously arranged, our beloved fellow-labourers, Mr 
and Mrs Gray, came round a week before. The two 
veteran Tanna missionaries made a boat voyage round 
the little world of Tanna, leaving their worthy wives to 
look after affairs at Kwamera. After the " Dayspring " 



314 ACXES C. P. WATT. 

came, we formed a party of twenty adults and four 
children. Every available place was used as a 
sleeping apartment; even the storeroom was turned 
into a barracks with beds for six. We had a busy but 
very pleasant time, a delightful communion season, and 
a nice little prayer meeting. It was most enjoyable. 
Our large party were with us for a fortnight and a day. 
And oh ! it was nice to have the Patons here. But the 
happiest meetings come to a close, and soon we had to 
part with our dear friends, who went forth each to his 
or her own special work. We found the promise true, 
" As thy days, so shall thy strength be " ; and we stood 
the extra duties well ; duties all the heavier, as some of 
our helps were completely laid up, and others worked 
on while suffering from influenza. This epidemic came 
just as the Synod met. As the Grays were going back 
by boat, we had to wait for suitable weather, and in the 
meantime we packed up for a visit to Port Resolution 
and the out-stations. After about ten days we started, 
getting a fine sea. On our way we landed goods at 
three stations to await our return overland. The goods 
were from various parts of the world, but the boxes 
were the gifts of our never-failing friends, the Sinclairs 
of Timaru. 

We remained over a week at Port Resolution. 
There, too, we have suffered loss. Navau, Sasairo s 
wife, has died, leaving an infant a few months old. 
Sasairo and she have been the most decided amono- the 
young people there. She often led the singing; and 
we sadly missed her sunny face. But we have good 
hope of her. Among her last words to her mother 
were, " I am going to leave you and go to heaven." 



CLOUDS AXJ> SUNSHINE. 315* 



Since the opening of the new station at Ikurupu, 
Niath, the Port Resolution teacher, has been there, as 
the Erromangan teacher could not speak the language, 
and Sasairo and Braun (another lad) have taken charge 
of the meeting. May they be kept steadfast ! The 
death also of Yauteki (Braun s father) has been a great 
loss to our mission, for he was by far the most 
energetic friend of the gospel at Port Resolution. We 
trust he, too, has reached the golden shore. 

We had arranged to leave Port Resolution on 
Tuesday (July 30th), but it rained heavily all night, so- 
we waited another day. However, on Wednesday, the 
Ikurupu girls came to carry our things, and we left. 
What we dreaded befell us before we had gone far, for 
the rain came down in torrents, and all our belongings 
were drenched. Bundles of bedding, changes of 
clothing, biscuits, kc., were all wet ; while we literally 
swam in our shoes, and were wet to the skin, rather a 
cheerless prospect for the night ; but there being no help- 
for it, we got up a good fire and dried our clothing. 
At the two meetings we examined the people in reading 
and hymn-singing, and were much pleased with the 
progress made. Already one young man prays in 
church. As they have no other way of getting clothing, 
and we were leaving for a long time, we gave each of 
the forty-one scholars a dress. 

Next morning was fine, and we went on to Yanumarer. 
There the attendance of males and the progress made 
is very gratifying. Sani and his wife Yecrimu are 
proving good teachers, and are loved and respected 
by all their parishioners. There also we distributed 
dresses, and after staying one night went on to Isumu 



316 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



(Yanatuan). Pavenga continues to show himself a 
workman that needeth not to be ashamed, and he has a 
fine field for his energies. We stayed there three days, 
and in many ways tried to help the good work. On 
Sabbath no fewer than six men engaged in prayer in 
church. Old Kauraka has made wonderful progress in 
Scripture knowledge, and Kapere, the old sorcerer, 
made a unique and impressive prayer. That, I think, 
was one of our happiest days on Tanna. 

The people contributed twenty-five fowls to the 
New Zealand church as a token of love to them. We 
distributed seventy dresses, each individual rewarding 
us with a smile of delight. On Monday we left them 
and visited our third new station, Imerakak. The 
women and girls turn out well, but the men are 
backward. However, Vahai and his wife Ripa are 
active teachers, and will devote their whole time to 
teaching while we are away. Thirty-seven dresses 
were given here. Amid many expressions of grief at 
our departure we left, followed by a crowd who 
accompanied us down the slippery path to the sea. 
How good the natives are in clearing away every 
obstacle from our path, and taking our hands at 
difficult places ! It is well that they are so, for in 
fording one stream, the current was so strong and the 
water so deep, that without their help we would never 
have got over. By the help of one on either side I 
waded safely through. 

All our homeward journey was characterised by 
farewells, and since then one and another band have 
come to bid us good-bye. The other evening, 
including the people of Kwarnera, we had seventy at 



**"# O 




-3i<s A<;NES o. P. WATT. 

church. About half of these had come as good as ten 
miles to say farewell. I am in a strait ; to leave them 
is hard, but to carry the New Testament through the 
press is all important. We are leaving our stations in 
good working order; our teachers are as efficient as 
any we have ever had, and Mr Gray has kindly agreed to 
supervise all. May God greatly bless the people in our 
.absence, and prepare them for the printed Word of 
Life we hope to bring to them. The revision of the 
New Testament is complete ! 

Now about Nahi-abba the chief at Kwamera. The 
scamp has begun to attend church and school once 
more, and last Sabbath he brought his little adopted 
son and heir for the first time ; but alas, he shows 
no signs of accepting the Gospel. Pray for him, that 
from whatever motive he has come he may get a 
blessing. 

In making arrangements for a prolonged absence 
from our station, I am struck with the different state of 
affairs now from what it was ten years ago, when we 
left the islands. Then we left one teacher at one 
station; now we leave eight, some of whom have 
flourishing schools. Then there were thirty books in 
circulation ; now there are at least three hundred. 

Let us not despise " the day of small things," but 
pray that "the little one may become a thousand." 
We have a hard field, and our faith is sorely tried ; the 
Church ought to know this and take its share in the 
burden of weary waiting. 

Why should we be expected to fight against such 
terrible odds, and yet be expected to write encouraging 
letters ? Let the Church continue to help us and 



CLOUDS AND SUNSHINE. 



uphold our hands by prayer, by ^Mission boxes, by 
words of cheer, and so strengthen our hearts. Thus 
doing, it shall not be said of it by the Angel of the 
Lord, " Curse ye Meroz, curse ye bitterly the inhabitants 
thereof; because they came not to the help of the Lord, 
to the help of the Lord against the mighty." 

October 7th. We left Kwamera on the 7th September, 
and arrived in Sydney on the 4th October. Probably 
we will leave for Scotland in a fortnight. 

AGNES C. P. WATT. 



XXIV. 
INTO HARNESS AGAIN. 

GENERAL LETTER. 

December, 1891. 

In these days of New Hebridean monthly mails it 
seems a long time since I sent my last general epistle 
in June ; but after all, this is just the month I would 
have sent it by the " Day spring." Our many friends 
around the world may be thinking that we have 
forgotten them, while we are having many proofs that 
we are not forgotten by them. We have had several 
tangible forms of deep interest in the form of Mission 
boxes and periodicals. So much for the thoughtfulness 
of friends ; and now for an explanation of my seeming 
remissness. 

Well, you know how we were dragged round the 
group of islands, owing first to the severe weather, and 
then, owing to well, I won t say what landed far from 
our own station. In this way it was long after leaving 
Sydney before we got back to our station at Kwamera, 
and even when we did get there it was in our own boat, 
the gift of the Auckland people, and called the 
" Aucklander." It did not seem at all like a return 
from Scotland, landing twenty miles from Kwamera, 
and then going there by boat. Our people there were 



INTO HARNESS AGAIN. 



not a little soured at the long delay ; but they were glad 
to see us, and a day or two afterwards made us a nice 
present of native food. We missed not a few familiar 
faces ; for in a little more than twelve months we had 
lost four of our small band of church members four 
out of eight. This tells sorely on our Tannese, who, 
being very superstitious, think there must be some 
fatality connected with church membership. 

We were gratified on our return to learn that no 
hurricane had done any damage to our premises ; that 
those left in charge had been faithful, and kept all in 
fair repair, as far as natives can do ; also to find from 
the teachers reports that the attendance at church and 
school and at the various places had been good. Thus 
in every way we have much cause for gratitude to 
God and happiness to ourselves. 

The first duty that pressed on us after getting our 
goods boated round was to pay those who had done 
work during our absence. These were legion ; for in 
this land of quick decay things are constantly needing 
repairs or renewals. Then we had our annual 
contribution of arrowroot made. At this our Kwamera 
people worked well, and the result was four casks of 
first-class arrowroot. The proceeds are to go to line 
the roof of the Kwamera Church, which, as you know, 
was built by the same means. 

The arrowroot made, bagged, casked, and got 
ready for shipment, we came round here (Port 
Resolution) for the erection of the Scotch Church" 
" a memorial of workers and work on Tanna." It 
proved a very heavy job, for in this primitive land, 
where there is no machinery, and all has to be done by 
21 



322 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



strength of arm, getting up some parts of the building 
was no joke. We improvised a derrick by lashing 
together the masts of the two boats, and with the aid 
of these and blocks and tackle we got the principal parts 
into their proper positions ; and although carpenters 
and builders may laugh at it, we heaved a sigh of relief 
when the last one was secured. Mr Gray and Mr Watt 
were the only skilled workmen. The others were all 
inexperienced in such work, being natives of the island. 
We had them all divided into two relays, who 
came turn about each alternate day ; and I assure you , 
there are no natives in these islands, or indeed in any 
land, who would have come more faithfully, or worked 
more heartily, than these much-abused Tannese. The 
work went on every day, Sabbaths excepted, from 
six a.m. till six p.m., for forty days. On ten of these days 
Mr Gray gave very valuable assistance. In truth, I do 
not see how we could have done without him. Day by 
day the women prepared food, the boys pulled drinking 
cocoa-nuts, and everyone worked willingly, while crowds 
came and gazed on in wonder as the edifice arose. 

Church building may not be considered by some as 
Mission work, yet we believe that this church erection 
has been the means of much good to the people, 
for we have better attendances both on Sabbaths 
and weekdays than ever we had before. We managed 
to keep up the daily morning and evening meetings 
during all the building time, and after the devotional 
part was over the builders went out, the rest remaining 
for lessons. 

The thing that above all others has given an impetus 
to our reading classes has been the distribution of the 



INTO HARNESS AGAIN. 32S 

New Testament. Though in a different language to 
that spoken at Weasisi, yet Mr Gray uses our books in 
addition to his own, and the accident of our being landed 
at his station instead of at either of our own, led to the 
first New Testaments being given out there. By 
arrangement, a representative man took them from the 
missionary and handed them to the people, who seemed 
much pleased to receive them. Then a boating party 
being over from Aniwa, they also got a share, to their 
no small joy, as they have not the complete New 
Testament in their own language. The Kwamera 
people were the next recipients. There, Naswai 
received them from the missionary and handed them 
round. He had been one of the final pundits, and was 
thus keenly interested in the book. The last to get 
their share thus formally were the people here at Port 
Resolution, but I think they showed more joy at 
getting them than any of the others, and ever since 
have plodded diligently to be able to read them. 
While telling you of the bright side, I must not fail to 
tell you that at one teacher s station, the young people, 
at the instigation of the grown-up, refused to take the 
foreign-made books. Although they use the books 
printed at Kwamera, and have no fear of them, they 
dread those printed in a foreign land * another 
proof of the dense superstition with which we have to 
contend. Since then a few copies have been received 



* Oddly enough, a somewhat opposite superstition prevails on 
Malekula. A heathen man of rank will not take food that has 
been cooked on, say, the Missionary s fire on Malekula, but he has 
no fear of eating biscuits which were cooked in a foreign land 
where the Malekulan spirits didn t see them. T.W. L. 



324 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



in that district. Perhaps you will remember that the 
dread of books is an old story on Tanna, and it is only 
lately that the fear has begun to break down. 

At present we have some interesting pupils, of whom 
I hope to tell you more by and by. One of these, 
called Nirua, alias " Monkey," is a married man, and 
comes some miles for lessons. 

When the building was so far finished that we could 
safely leave it, we paid a visit to Kwamera. We 
stayed there about a month, and then came back here 
prepared for the church opening. On Wednesday, the 
28th October, exactly twelve months to a day since we 
left Liverpool, natives from far and near assembled for 
the occasion. Mr and Mrs Gray and their two children, 
Mr Voullaire, a German teacher, and our neighbour 
Mr Bramwell joined us. We were a somewhat mixed 
company, speaking a medley of different languages. 
The building was well filled, but the bigger crowd was 
gathered outside, for our heathen onlookers were afraid 
to enter the sacred edifice. We had a nice service, and 
all seemed happy. 

After it was over there was an exchange of gifts. 
We gave a hundred yards of prints and calicoes, some 
handkerchiefs, two pots full of cooked rice, a pile of 
yams and taro, and two pieces of salt beef. Our 
neighbour gave some print, tins of beef, and rice. The 
natives gave two cooked pigs, and puddings ad lib. 
These things being divided to the satisfaction of all, we 
had speeches, when doubtless some good impressions 
were made. The weather was brilliant, and all passed 
off satisfactorily. On the next Sabbath we had a good 
attendance, Mr Gray addressing the people. On the 



326 AGNES C. l\ WATT. 

Sabbath following that, we made our first money 
collection on Tanna. We were much pleased with the 
hearty way in which the people responded to this the 
first call to give a free gift to the Lord. One man, 
whose whole purse was seventeen shillings, gave one 
shilling himself and one shilling to each of his three 
sons, so that they might have something to give. 
Knowing how meanly the Tannese treated the spirits 
whom they worshipped in heathenism, giving them the 
scraggiest fish, the poorest bananas and the smallest yams, 
we were highly pleased with what they contributed. 
We asked them to give it as a thank-offering for 
the remarkable exemption from accident during the 
building of the church, for at times the work was rather 
dangerous. The result was 3 5s. 

During the last month we have been erecting much- 
needed offices in place of some that threatened to 
tumble about our heads. In this work, too, the people 
have done well, and they and we have been very busy. 
On some days I had to provide food for, and divide it 
over, no less than forty people. I often think this mission 
is conducted on wrong lines, and that an industrial 
mission would suit our people better ; for in that way 
one would get many more opportunities of doing the 
people good, and putting in a word for the Master. 
With manual labour on hand at which we can employ 
them, they are brought more about us, and we can 
confer more benefits, both spiritual and temporal. 
Indeed, I sometimes feel that if we were allowed to 
trade in copra, and had a market for it, we could make 
our mission self-supporting. 

Surely Tanna bulks largely in some minds, though it 



INTO HARNESS Ail A IN. 



is only a small island a little larger than Arran, for 
we have noticed that the "civil war" raging on it was 
referred to, not only in the Australian papers, but even 
in a San Francisco paper and the London Standard. 
We have also been receiving letters of condolence from 
friends who think our lives in danger. Personally the 
said civil war has not affected us in the slightest, and 
the Grays, who were in the centre of the scene of action, 
and who more than once had the bullets whizzing over 
or around their house, were so assured of their personal 
safety that Mrs Gray stayed bravely alone with the 
children, while Mr Gray came up here to assist at our 
church-building. 

Doubtless the kingdom of Christ is coining on this 
dark island ; nevertheless, the devil s kingdom has 
been powerful during the past two years. Rarely at 
any time will you not find war raging in some district ; 
but this last year it almost seems to have been wider 
spread than usual, and certainly the list of " killed and 
wounded " has been unusually large for Tanna, while 
the atrocities committed have been worse than we have 
ever heard of before. Indignities were offered to the dead 
of both sexes ; and in one case, at least, the enemy 
committed the sin that Elisha said that Hazael would 
do, and, as in several other cases, the poor woman was 
left unburied to be eaten by dogs, and would have been 
completely devoured, had not one of our teachers come 
on the scene next day, and, unaided, dug a grave and 
buried her. One instance of the disgusting depravity 
of these people has shocked me much. A man who 
attends service in the district where the above-mentioned 
dreadful affair took place, on seeing the poor mutilated 



328 ACNES C. P. WATT. 

form of the woman, addressed it thus : " If only the 
Gospel had not reached my village, how I would 
have enjoyed a feast off you/ I cannot tell you how 
much this has preyed on my mind, or how glad I feel at 
realising that Jesus is an Almighty Saviour, and can 
save to the uttermost, else I would despair of these 
people. 

Some have said that the backwardness of the Gospel 
on Tanna is due to the want of faith on the part of her 
missionaries; but I agree with our fellow-labourer, Mr 
Gray, who says it is only those who have gigantic faith 
that could have laboured so many years in Tanna. 

I have been suffering for three months with a pain on 
the instep of my right foot, which has prevented me 
itinerating, and so William has had to go alone, to 
the no small disappointment of the women. Lately 
he visited Yanumarer and Yanatuan, staying from 
Saturday till Monday at the latter place. Just the day 
before he arrived a sad accident occurred. A band of 
women and girls, while bathing, were carried out to sea. 
All saved had a narrow escape. Two were much 
exhausted, arid one woman, alas, was drowned. 

December 17th. I had written up to this yesterday, 
and hoped to have to-day printed it on the trypograph. 
Yesterday we devoted to entertaining the natives, as 
we would not be here on New-year s-day. We had a 
religious service in the church, and then distributed the 
Glasgow Foundry Boys Religious Society s gifts, 
reading the texts sent by them, and telling the people 
here something of the Society. After the meeting was 
over we had sports in the mission premises, the " tug- 
of-war" being, as usual, the favourite. We also showed 



INTO HARNESS AGAIN. 329 

them the dolls sent, and men and women yelled with 
delight. Many had never seen the like before. While 
we were in the height of interest over a potato (lemon) 
race, the cry got up, " There s the steamer ! " She was 
thus more than two days before her time, and 
consequently we were not ready. To-day I am printing 
this, and will leave it here for next mail. In a day or 
two we leave for Kwamera, where we hope to spend the 
greater part of next three months. 

We heard two days ago that there is a great deal of 
sickness at Kwamera, and as the steamer reported 
influenza as very prevalent on Aneityum, we fear that 
that dreaded scourge has at length found its way to 
remote island of Tarma. 

AGNES C. P. WATT. 

TANNA, December 17th, 1891. 



XXV. 
SICKNESS AND WAR 

GENERAL LETTER. 

PORT RESOLUTION, April, 1892. 

" Master, we have toiled all the night, and have taken 
nothing : nevertheless at Thy word I will let down the 
net." Where is this Christ-honouring faith nowadays ? 
Tt seems to me that those who cull for religious papers, 
for foreign mission reports, and for the Christian public 
generally, pick out the bright things in missionaries 
letters and use them as arguments for obeying Christ s 
command to disciple all nations, as if that were the 
only way to get people to subscribe for the extension of 
the Redeemer s kingdom ; whereas, the fact that Christ 
has bid us disciple all nations ought to be enough to 
make every child of God ready to give for the 
advancement of His kingdom, whether the fruit be 
seen or not. 

I fear the searchers for encouragements only will 
find little in this general letter to their taste, for, during 
the past year, " deep has been calling unto deep " all 
over the island. Our fellow-labourers, the Grays, have 
felt this as well as we. Indeed, it seems to me as if it 
had been the most trying year that they have had on 
Tanna. I remarked lately in a letter to them, that 
their letters to us read like a second book of the 
Lamentations of Jeremiah. Nearly a year ago 



SICKNESS AND WAR. 331 



Ya-ko-le, one of their most promising natives, was shot, 
and in the subsequent war their only out-station was 
broken up, and they were in the centre of the 
inter-tribal fighting, and had the bullets whizzing 
round their house, and finally found themselves 
deserted, as neither side for a time dared to come 
openly to their premises for fear of the other. The war 
scare was not well over, when that dread scourge, 
influenza, laid them and all their parishioners low, and 
for weeks they were under a heavy cloud. This cleared 
away, and things seemed brighter when the "Para" 
brig, a labour vessel, brought back and landed six men 
and one woman returned labourers from Queensland. 
One man and the woman belonged to the west side of 
the island ; but for some reason or other they were 
landed at Weasisi, some of Mr Gray s parishioners 
professing to be their friends, and the man assenting 
thereto. The " Para " left, and the natives scattered to 
go to their different stations. Mr Gray had resumed 
the house-building, which had been interrupted by the 
arrival of the vessel, when a shot was heard. The 
Tanna lads working with Mr Gray then revealed to 
his two Aniwan helps the plot that had been 
laid to kill the man and keep his wife and property, 
and now asked leave to stop working, which was 
granted. Mr Gray determined to go and see for 
himself ; so, headed by the two Aniwan helps, he went 
in the direction of the shot. On the way they saw a 
Tannaman, who tried to dissuade them from following 
a certain path ; but Mr Gray made signs to the 
Aniwans to proceed. They had not gone far when the 
foremost stood still, and pointing over the brae-side, 



332 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



said in Weasisian, " He is there " ; and there, a few 
yards below the path, against the foot of a tree, the 
man lay dead, stripped of everything but his shirt. 
Mr Gray went down and examined the body. Putting 
aside the left arm and tearing open the shirt, he found 
a large hole, into which the bullet or charge had 
entered. Mr Gray says he must have been stripped 
and thrown over the bank before he died, for his right 
hand was laid over his left breast (the wound was on 
the left side and near the armpit). He probably laid 
his hand there as he died. Mr Gray went on to the 
village and saw Kapakini and Tuman (the latter was 
the murderer). They still persisted in saying that they 
were the dead man s friends, and wished Mr Gray to 
believe that the man was killed by people from the 
west side of the island. Mr Gray begged leave to bury 
the body, but could not get it. He even offered them 
two big axes if they would let him have it, but no. 
He then gave them a bit of his mind, and for weeks 
after they showed their resentment at him for 
condemning this foul deed. Such is Tanna. Two and 
a half hours after this man was landed he was coolly 
murdered, his wife and property being confiscated. (The 
wife, however, has since fled and reached her home.) 
His body was carried as good as twenty miles, and given 
to his enemies there, who cooked part and threw part 
into the sea. 

The ill-feeling about this affair was not over when one 
of Mr Gray s helps gave him a long night of weary 
watching and talking, trying to pacify an offended 
husband, who said the Aniwan had acted improperly 
with his wife, for which cause he went along with an 



SICKNESS AND WAR. 333 

iron " kawas " and a loaded rifle, bent on revenge ; and, 
but that Mr Gray was stronger than he, I suppose the 
Aniwan s life would have gone. As it was, he had 
much trouble and a sleepless night. When in Scotland 
I sometimes heard people complain about needing to 
pay taxes or police rates. I wonder how they would 
like to live in a lawless land like this ! 

My last "general" left just as the influenza was 

raging at Kwamera and Weasisi, the two principal 

mission districts. We were sorry we were not at 

Kwamera, if by any means we could alleviate the 

sufferings of our people there ; but though we were all 

ready, we were detained by the weather a whole month. 

During that month the influenza spread from district to 

district between Kwamera and Port Resolution, and 

we were daily receiving tidings of its ravages. Husband 

and wife frequently succumbed; and in one case husband, 

wife, and grown-up daughter the whole family were 

cut off, the two former being laid iu one grave. The 

much -dreaded scourge came nearer and nearer. Like 

the disciples of old, " we feared as we entered into the 

cloud." At length it reached here Port Resolution 

and out of the whole population living around 

about 100 we alone escaped, like the messenger who 

told Job of his calamities (a man and his wife are one, 

are they not?). Niathuanipciv, the teacher, was 

on the verge of the grave for days, and many others 

seemed more like death than life. We went round 

twice a day with medicine, tea, and biscuit, and our 

visits seemed to cheer them, besides, we believe, 

preventing the sickness having the effect it usually has 

on Tanna, of driving the people away from church. 



334 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



Here alone, of all our stations, have we none who drew 
back from church attendance because they had been 
sick. . . . 

Those who have followed the history of mission work 
on Tanna know that sickness has been the cause of the 
breaking up of the mission time and again, and you will 
see that the same superstition still affects the public 
mind. Here, only one death occurred, and that was 
due very much to the fact that the poor woman in her 
weak state got a severe beating, in which some of her 
ribs were injured. 

On January 19th, after nearly a month s waiting, 
and after our boat s crew had three times walked 
overland for us (doing as good as fifty miles in all), 
we got a fair wind and went to Kwamera, taking 
Niathanipciv, the teacher, with us, as he was too ill to- 
be left. The people there were glad to see us back, but 
we missed some familiar faces out of church. Five had 
died. Of these five, one was Yarere, who (as many who 
read this know) stayed eleven years in our house, and 
was a good faithful daughter and servant to us. Our 
loss was her gain ; for, though not a member of the 
visible church, we believe she has joined the church 
above. These deaths made everything seem sad at 
Kwamera ; but the darkness was not yet passed. 
Rukweisiari, one of our brightest and best girls, died in 
very sad circumstances. She had had a daughter who 
only lived a few days. She said from the first that she 
would like to follow her baby, but added, " I am trying 
to say like Jesus, not my will, but Thine, be done. " 
After the baby died we got her to stay in our premises, 
and did all we could for her. She was a very pleasant 



SICKNESS AND WAR. 335 

patient, and though often in much pain she never 
murmured. She trusted in Jesus, and read and sang 
up to the very last ; for she was sensible, and sang a 
hymn a few minutes before the blood seemed to rise up 
in her throat and choke her. Her death made a great 
impression on those around, for they saw that religion 
gave her pleasure even in death. In Rukweisiari we 
lost a good scholar, a faithful servant, and an ever-ready 
help ; but we mourn not as those who have no hope, 
for we believe she has changed the songs of earth for 
the songs of heaven. 

Jehovah reigneth, and all must be well ; but in less 
than nine months we have lost three of our old girls, 
our best and most promising young women, and our 
hearts are weak, while the heathen exult and say, 
"Now, are we not right, the gospel kills, for are not 
all the Christian girls dying ? " These deaths have 
weakened our hands, and in the meantime none seem 
willing to run the risk and fill up the blanks caused by 
death. During the last three years or so we have had 
no additions to the membership of our little church ; 
but on the other hand, death has carried off more than 
half. The cause is the Lord s, and the faithful servant 
is commended, not the successful one. Man praises 
the successful one, though in his success God knows 
he has sufficient joy without any congratulations. The 
Lord perfects strength in weakness. 

We never seem to get ahead of the manual labour 
needed. We have been very busy at Kwamera 
patching up our rotten houses. Galvanized iron, that 
lasts I know not how long in other places, has quickly 
rusted, aixd at the end of five years we have had to 



.336 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

renew much of our roof, as the iron was completely 
gone. Then we printed and bound a new edition of 
our Primer, and latterly we printed and sent away 
one hundred copies of a photograph of our "Scotch 
Church" at Port Resolution. These have been sent to 
as many friends in Scotland, America, Nova Scotia, 
New Zealand, and Australia. We hope in this way to 
show what we did with the money we raised in 
Scotland, and enable those who so willingly gave it to 
realise what a nice church we have got. That church 
is a lasting sermon to this people, and we are pleased 
to see that it still exercises a good influence over them ; 
for we continue to have good classes in it daily, and 
good congregations on Sabbaths. We are gratified 
with the progress they have made during our absence 
in reading the New Testament, and we labour and pray 
that the blessed truths may enter their hearts, and the 
entrance of the Word illumine their darkness. Has 
God not said that His Word will not return unto Him void ? 
April 21st. As intended, we came round to Port 
Resolution a little over a week ago, and found 
everything satisfactory. . . . We are now on tiptoe 
expecting the steamer, when we hope to welcome back 
returning missionaries, and also Dr and Mrs Lamb. 
We and the Grays would like if they would choose 
Tanna; for though Tanna is Tanna still, and would 
doubtless prove a tough piece of work for Dr Lamb, as 
it has done to many before him, yet nothing but the 
gospel will heal the sore of this island, and perhaps a 
medical man will commend its soul-healing properties 
-by healing their bodies. 

AGNES C. P. WATT. 



XXVI. 
THE CARE OF ALL THE CHURCHES. 

TO MISS CROIL, MONTREAL, CANADA. 

TANNA, NEW HEBRIDES, 

July 16th, 1892. 

MY DEAR Miss CROIL : 

Duties waiting on the threshold 

Will not be denied, 
Others, coming round the corner, 

( Crowding to their side, 
How shall I their number master? 

How shall 1 get through ? " 

These words strikingly describe our circumstances, 
and express the question constantly on our lips during 
the first eight or ten months after our return to Tanna 
from our recent furlough. We were so fully occupied 
at the two principal stations that it was hard to find 
time to visit the out-stations. Mr Watt did make one or 
two trips to all the stations, but evidently the people 
were disappointed that Missi Bran did not go. Many 
were the enquiries about the sprained foot, for all had 
heard of the accident. It almost seemed as if we could 
not have pressed more work into each day than we did, 
yet had it not been for said painful foot, doubtless I too 
would have itinerated. 



338 AGXES C. P. WATT. 

At length I made up my mind to try and visit one 
or two places in the part of our district where the 
native paths are fairly good. Accordingly on Monday 
morning, May 30th, we started from Port Resolution. 
The day was fine and the road good. Our destination 
was Yanatuan, Pavenga s station. The first four or 
five miles was on comparatively level ground till near 
our first halting-place ; the path then led by a bleak 
sand hill, on going down which the foot sinks several 
inches each step taken. Once down the sandy 
hill-side we were at the sea-beach, and then we wound 
our way up a gully for some distance and climbed a 
steep path to the village, which is named Yanumarer- 
Sane and Yecrimu taught there while we were in 
Scotland, but owing to certain circumstances we took 
them away, and now Sane only goes on Sabbaths, or 
for a spell of a week or two at a time. We intend 
spending a week there ourselves in a month or so. 

We were well received by the few worshipping 
people, and supplied with luncheon of native roots 
roasted, and green cocoa-nuts as a beverage, our long 
walk making us enjoy the simple meal. After that we 
had a service in the church with the people. I should 
have said that at Yanumarer we have a nice grass 
hut of our own, with reed bench for bedstead, &c. Our 
Aneityumese teachers, Niath and Sane, had been our 
burden-bearers thus far, but now they turned back, and 
the Yanumarer people took their places and conveyed 
us to the next station. Now, however, all the level 
road was behind, and one hill after another lay before. 
I did realise very vividly that every hill has its hollow, 
for it was up and down, up and down, very much like 



THE CARE OF ALL THE CHURCHES. 339 

the switchback railway we saw in the Edinburgh 
Exhibition grounds, only more trying to feet and 
lungs, l had travelled the same path before, but this 




2i^ 



VECRIMU. 



time vowed I would never go again so long as I could get 
to see our friends by any other road. 



340 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

On the way we passed through two villages, but, 
unfortunately, saw no one. As the day was becoming 
far spent and our attendants had to return home, we 
trudged on, or as I expressed it, " hirpled," for every 
step gave me an aching foot, which I set down most 
gingerly. 

At length the last hill was climbed, and we reached 
Yaneveker. There Yamen has been teaching for a few 
months, but before he went there the services were 
conducted by a Tannaman named Rabyiahammer. 
Yaneveker is the new station that was opened in our 
absence ; it is really a branch from Yanatuan. Here 
again we were supplied with food, and our burden- 
bearers were sent back with eatables both cooked and 
raw. As we had still some distance to go we had no 
service, but, getting fresh help, we resumed our march. 
Alas for me, the last descent into the valley and ascent 
up the opposite side were the worst of all ; the path 
was very steep, and at some places I had to be literally 
dragged up by a native. At times 1 felt clean 
" forfochen," but set a " stout heart to a stey brae/ and 
so reached the top, panting for breath, and drenched 
with perspiration. But we got a hearty welcome ; and 
when, after tea, we had a wee service in our grass hut 
with the natives of the village, and heard how heartily 
they sang, and how fervently two or three prayed, I 
forgot the long road and the steep climb. 

Worship over, we hung up our mosquito netting to 
keep off lizards, spiders, rats, &c. ; laid our cotton mats 
on the reed bench, the one to do duty as mattress, 
sheets, &c., the other as a covering, and, with an air 
pillow for each, we sought rest. We slept well, and 



342 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



rose refreshed. After a breakfast of yams and tea we 
had service, gave a present of a dress to each individual, 
and, with many a kind word and look, left Yanatuan 
and returned to Yaneveker. Along the steep path, 
however, I would not go, preferring the longer way 
down to the sea-beach on the one side and up on the 
other side of the valley. Our burden-bearers had less 
to carry now, but even when we take only the bare 
necessaries of life, we require one or two porters, or 
more generally porteresses ; for the women are the 
burden-bearers on Tanna. At Yaneveker we had a 
nice service with a hearty people, and then, bidding 
them good-bye, started to go back to Port Resolution. 

On our return journey we took what I call the 
" mountain path," rising gradually up the spur of the 
hill. On the one side nothing is to be seen, but on the 
other you have a splendid view of the mountains 
towering some 4,000 feet high, while between you and 
them lies a lovely valley, with magnificent tree ferns 
waving their most graceful fronds to every passing 
breeze, and nearer you see some fine fields of taro, yam, 
and other native crops. By and by we reach a place 
called Yakuribus, where a splendid stretch of ocean, 
harbour, hill and valley bursts on the view, with our 
Workers Memorial Church distinctly visible as it 
nestles on the point of land at Port Resolution. This 
land is known to the natives as the "fish s tail," and 
indeed, as seen from the high land, it very much 
resembles the tail of a fish. 

Leaving Yakuribus, we had a little of the hill and 
valley road to encounter, but only a little. A strange 
custom prevails on this part of the road. Every native, 



THE CARE OF ALL THE CHURCHES. 343 

as he passes along, puts a fern or other leaf either on 
the ground or on the branch of a tree, just as the 
withered leaves which have been laid down by those 
who have gone before indicate. We, of course, pay no 
attention to the custom, but every native does so most 
faithfully, and gives as a reason that were they to fail, 
the god or spirit haunting that part of the mountain 
would hide the path from them and they would lose 
their way. 

A little after passing this place, we began to descend 
gently, and went through a defile which I have called 
" Balaam s Pass." It is a deep fissure or chasm, most 
probably a rent in the earth caused by an earthquake. 
It is only a foot or two wide at the bottom, and rises 
at some places twenty or thirty feet. The narrow 
cutting continues for some distance, and shortly after 
emerging from it we came to the village of Yakwanemee. 
There we rested and waited for an old man named 
Nasueiyu, who had promised to join the worshipping 
party. He and his old wife came, but the latter drew 
back in terror when I offered to shake hands with her, 
and uttered an exclamation of horror when she saw her 
husband being dressed in a shirt as the outward sign 
that from henceforth he was going to attend church. 
I tried all I could to explain that we have to do with 
God whether we would or not, and that He wishes all 
of us to worship and love Him. I fear, however, she 
was not convinced, and since then I have heard of her 
death. The ceremony of clothing Nasueiyu over, after 
a little personal dealing with one or two wild-looking 
fellows, we resumed our walk, and in a short time 
arrived at the next village, Ikurupu. There we got 



344 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



fresh porteresses, the others returning to Yaneveker, 
while we plodded homewards. By this time my foot 
was paining me much, and when a few miles further 
on we reached the head of Port Resolution Bay, I was 
very glad to get a sail down in a canoe. Though jaded 
in body we felt refreshed in mind, for we were 
encouraged by the attention of the natives at each 
place; and, have we not the realisation of that 
blessedness spoken of in Scripture, "Blessed are ye 
that sow beside all waters " ? 

About a week after making this tour, in which I 
limped painfully so much of the way, the inter-island 
steamer called here on her way to Aneityum, where the 
Synod meeting was to be held. She had nearly all the 
missionaries and their wives on board, and we joined 
the party. 

Last year I told you of the dirt and discomfort 
experienced on board the " Croydon " ; and, as the 
contrast this year was very striking, it is only just to 
those in command that I should say something on the 
subject. All that could be done here was done for the 
comfort of the missionaries. Bedding for shakedowns 
had been provided, greater cleanliness was everywhere 
apparent, there was a good table, and, last but not least, 
there were obliging stewards. To add to our enjoyment 
we had fine weather, especially on the return trip from 
Aneityum to Tanna, so that our voyage was a pleasant 
one, and then how .quickly it was done ! We lifted 
anchor in Port Resolution, Tanna,about four a.m., reached 
Futuna a little after mid-day, taking Dr Gunn and 
family on board, and finally cast anchor in Anelgauhat 
Harbour, Aneityum, a little after midnight. 



THE CARE OF ALL THE CHURCHES. 



I was fast asleep when we entered the harbour, and 
would have known nothing about it, but the captain 
blew his whistle to let Mr Lawrie know of our arrival, 
and William thought it well to come down and tell me 
lest I should imagine something was wrong. He 
simply awoke me saying : " We are at anchor, and the 
whistle was blown to arouse Mr Lawrie." As nearly 
every one preferred sleeping on deck, I had the comfort 
of a cabin, the one occupied by Dr and Mrs Lamb, and 
hearing we were at anchor, I thought they might want 
to dress in it for going on shore, so with all speed I 
rose, and with bag in hand ready to land, went up 
on deck to announce to the Lambs that their cabin was 
free. Fancy my discomfiture when one and another 
took a good laugh at my expense, and I was asked if I 
was going ashore at two a.m. I did not go ashore, but 
returned to my bunk and slept till daylight. 

We had a very pleasant time on Aneityum. It was 
so refreshing to be with so many kindred spirits. 
Owing to Mrs Lawrie s absence, Mr Lawrie had asked 
me to take charge of the domestic arrangements, which 
I reluctantly agreed to. My mission daughters helped 
efficiently, and the natives worked famously, and so all 
went well, although latterly we were a company of 
twenty-nine adults and twelve children. We enjoyed 
the society of the deputation from New South Wales. 
It consisted of the Rev. Mr Paterson of Pyrmont, and 
his most amiable wife ; Dr Marden, Principal of the 
Ladies College, Croydon ; and Mr Aitken, law agent of 
the New South Wales Presbyterian Church. At 
several meetings we had excellent addresses from the 
deputies. True, I have not heard all the deputies from. 



346 AGXES C. P. WATT. 



year to year (being in Scotland at the time I missed 
Professor Drummond), but to me it seemed as if 
Dr Marden s address was the most finely worded 
composition I had ever heard in the New Hebrides, 
while the matter thereof was intensely interesting. It 
was listened to with rapt attention. The subject was the 
successful, and apparently non-successful parts of the 
life of John the Baptist. One sentence was particularly 
soothing to me, seeing we so long have fought against 
such odds, and can see little advance. He said : " The 
soldier on the battle-field, though he be cut down and 
die while the conflict is still doubtful, has done his duty 
no less than he who, with shouts of acclamation, 
carries his sword on to victory." 

While at Aneityum I consulted Dr Lamb as to the 
pain in my right foot. He examined the foot and says 
there is a small tumour on the bone, most probably 
caused by something having fallen on the part, and 
that the only cure is to cut it. Unless, however, it 
becomes absolutely necessary, I will not agree to 
that 

Just on the eve of leaving Aneityum, it transpired 
that there was some hitch in the arrangements for next 
Synod s meeting. The alterations consequent on Mr 
Lawrie s probable resignation had not been considered. 
As no one else volunteered to take action in the matter, 
arid as Anelgauhat is the only place where there is 
sufficient accommodation for a Synod gathering, 
William and I offered to entertain the Synod next year 
at Anelgauhat, and allow the usual grant of 40 for 
Synod expenses, to go towards buying bedding, napery, 
cutlery, a stove, &c., which would thus become Synod 



348 AGXES C. P. WATT. 



property, and be seviceable for future meetings. Our 
offer was accepted. 

Returning from Synod, after landing the Gunns, we 
went to Weasisi. Some fourteen of us spent the night 
on shore, and next morning a party of twelve started 

about .5.30 to walk overland to Port Resolution, visitino- 

o 

the volcano en route ; the rest of us went round by sea 
in the "Croydon," and had dinner ready for the tired 
travellers, who had been on the march for eight hours, 
and were very glad to get a bath and refreshments, but 
who nevertheless thought the sight of " Yasoor " worth 
the trouble. After family prayers, conducted by 
Mr Aitken, of whom we had formed a particularly high 
opinion, we adjourned to the church, where we had the 
usual evening worship with the natives. After worship 
William took the party off to the " Croydon," and we 
resumed our lonely life. It did seem so lonely after 
all the excitement of the previous fortnight ; but 
" to the work, to the work ! " sounded in our ears, and 
we were soon up and doing. 

After a little more than a week, during which time 
we were much encouraged by the Port Resolution 
people turning out well to church and school (old 
Nasueiyu, who had at least four miles to come, coming 
regularly on Sabbath), we prepared to visit Kwamera. 
We purchased the arrowroot (raw material), and sent it 
round by boat, but we ourselves took the road, as we 
wanted to settle Kamil and his wife (an Aneityumese 
couple who had just come from Aneityum), at Ikurupu in 
place of Sempent, the Erromangan teacher, who had died 
during our absence. During the vacancy, Nirua (Monkey), 
a Tannaman, had been conducting meetings here. 



THE CARE OF ALL THE CHURCHES. 349 

On Friday, 1st July, we left Port Resolution, accom 
panied by three Aneityumese teachers and their wives 
all laden with goods, for we were going to give presents 
at Ikurupu. The people there had the mission ground 
in wood order ; a new fence had been made all round, 

C3 * 

and our own grass hut had been repaired and aired for 
our reception. 

Calling all the worshippers together into church, 
William formally inducted Kamil, after which we gave 
over thirty garments out of a box sent by the North 
Belt Church, Christchurch, and which had arrived by 
the "Croydon" just in the nick of time. The natives 
had cooked a nice supper of fowl and bananas, and to 
this we did ample justice. We then held an evening 
meeting, at which prayer was offered by several, and 
hymn after hymn sung. 

We had got a great heat on the road, and perhaps 
caught cold ; be that as it may, we rose from our reed 
bed next day far from refreshed, but after breakfast and 
morning worship with the people, we resumed our 
travels past Yakwanemi, through Balaam s Pass, over 
the mountain path to Yakuribus, and down to 
Yaneveker. There we had a reed bench put up for us 
in the church, and so spent the night. Alas! we rose next 
morning more tired than when we lay down. We had, 
however, good and hearty meetings in the forenoon, and 
after mid-day we went on to Yanatuan, where, that 
afternoon, evening, and next morning, we had most 
pleasant services. My very lungs felt sore with the 
hard benches, so we made up our minds to go on to 
Kwamera, staying only an hour or two at Imerakak, a 
station where Yahai goes to conduct service on Sabbath, 



AGXES C. P. WATT. 



and of which Weesep, a Tannaman, has charge during 
the week. I would like to have told you of the road 
between Yanatuan and Imerakak, first round a stony 
beach, over rocks and boulders, where a native on each 
side took my hand and helped me along; then 
up one steep hill and down another; over a running 
stream, and then up another hill ; of the meeting we 
had with the heathen in the public square; of the 
difficulties they see to accepting the Gospel ; of the 
good repast the worshippers gave us ; of the steep path 
down to the shore; of the clambering over rocks, through 
sinking sand, round rocky points, &c. At last we 
reached Kwamera, where, alas ! no welcome awaited us, 
for the people were shy, being busy reviving an 
abominable practice that had been in abeyance for 
nearly twenty years. We felt that had we no Afield but 
Kwamera, we would either die or leave in despair. 
One by one our best people there have died. Nearly 
all my old girls are dead, and the people who are left 
are "wishy washy." Nahi-abba, our chief, has been an 
enemy to the Gospel, and a thorn in our side for many 
years, and we believe he is the moving spirit in all this 
sin and heathenism. . . . 

Perhaps some one may ask what kind of buildings 
we have for churches at these out-stations. Well, they 
are simply grass huts, European-shaped, having 
doorways but no doors, and windows but no glass. In 
the one at Yaneveker, which on this trip had to do duty 
as church, school, reception-room, and bedroom, there is 
a single doorway and ten windows, and through these 
numerous openings the wind blew rather strong to be 
agreeable, and may have had more to do with our 



THE CARE OF ALL THE CHURCHES. 351 

wearied bones than the hard benches. We are having 
grass huts for bedrooms put up both at Imerakak and 
Yaneveker. 

I have failed to mention that on our arrival at 
Aneityum we had ocular proof that the labour traffic 
had been resumed by Queensland, as we found the 
" May " lying there at anchor ready to start on her 
legalised, but nefarious search for natives. Sir 
S. Griffiths may think he can frame laws to prevent 
abuses, but many of these laws must simply be so many 
dead letters, as no Government agent, however well 
intentioned, can carry them out. Who, for example, is 
to know whether the man accompanying a woman on 
board is really her husband? He may be, but the 
probability is that he is not. 

I am told that without these natives Queensland 
cannot prosper. I believe the curse of God will rest on 
Queensland until she washes her hands clean of this 

matter. 

Yours very sincerely, 

AGNES C. P. WATT. 



XXVII. 
A COOL SEASON S WORK. 

GENERAL LETTER. 

TANNA, NEW HEBRIDES, 

December 5th, 1892. 

My last general epistle was made up on July 16th. 
We were then in the middle of our annual arrowroot 
making ; of which I told you. . . . 

Early in August we went to the opening of a new 
church at Itaku. There was the usual exchange of 
gifts on both sides. We had an encouraging prayer 
meeting, at which, from the prayers of some, I was 
-convinced that the kingdom of light was beginning to 
penetrate the dense darkness. 

Friday, August 5th. Began to retrace our steps Port 
Resolutionwards, again walking overland. Went to 
TJkwarep, where we halted, and had a prayer meeting 
and gave gifts. At Imerakak we also gave rewards for 
regularity and progress. Rain came down heavily all 
the afternoon and evening, so that the Magic-Lantern 
Exhibition was poorly attended. We occupied our new 
grass cottage for the first time, and overheard Kawa 
and Naba singing a hymn ; went out and called on them 
afterwards, and found they had family worship daily. 
This was a glad surprise to us, for this is one of the 



A COOL SEASONS WORK. 



darkest spots in our district. (Have since heard that 
both Kawa and Naba are dead.) 

Saturday 6th. After such a night of rain, the prospect 
of travelling was far from pleasant, but go we must ; 
for all along the line we were expected. So with Nisap 
and Toi s help I got down the steep hill-side to the bed 
of the stream, which we found in flood. Here we both 
had to prepare for wading. I laughed, as I wondered 
what a comical-looking photograph could have been 
taken of us, as, shoeless and stockingless, first the 
missionary and then his wife were helped across 
the rapid torrent by two strong young men, now 
springing from rock to rock, now wading, and all the 
while holding my arms with firm grasp. Safe across, 
and foot-gear again adopted, we laboriously climbed 
up the other side of the gully. The rain again 
began to fall heavier than ever. The native paths 
were miniature streams, and we literally swam in 
our shoes. The natives were sorely distressed about 
us, and begged us to take shelter under a tree, 
which we did for a little. I again thought of 
the camera and a photograph of nine or ten " drookit 
craws" trying in vain to find a dry spot even under 
the big tree. No hope of it clearing up, so down the 
steepest and most slippery path of all we descended 
with difficulty; one of the women, cutting foot-holes 
for me in the path, while my two good angels held me 
up, till at length we reached the sea-beach. Our path 
lay along the shore for two miles, and then, after going 
up another hill-side, we reached Yanatuan, where we 
got such changes of raiment as we could. 

Sabbath 7th. Kauraka-asori and his wife Kuau, and 
23 



AGNES C. 1\ WATT. 



Nauawivau, were baptised, and thereafter we had 
Communion ; the teachers, the three new members, and 
ourselves, making a company of eight. This is the first 
time our Tanna Communion service has been used ; and 
this is the first Communion ever celebrated in thi& 
district ; though for years Kauraka has taken a decided 
stand on the side of the Gospel. Our little love-feast 
was a happy one. 

Monday 8th. Kauraka s son and namesake was 
married in church before an interested audience. The 
bride and bridegroom were both rigged out by us. At 
sundown there was a wedding supper, which consisted 
of two good-sized porkers, with other things on a 
like liberal scale. Had a splendid turn-out at the 
Magic-Lantern Exhibition. The visitors were treated 
to part of the marriage supper. This was the first 
Christian marriage ever celebrated in the district. In 
honour thereof, we had a live pig given to us, which 
will be carried from village to village by willing helpers 
until it reaches Port Resolution. 

Tuesday 9th. Went to Yaneveker; Maui, a girl, 
accompanying us for medical treatment. Great exchange 
of cooked food, and a substantial supper given to the 
crowds who came to see the Magic Lantern. Slept in 
our new grass hut, which is rather green and damp, but 
a great improvement on the many-apertured church in 
which we slept on our last visit. 

Wednesday 10th. Maui coughed so much that we 
got no sleep. I fear she is too far gone in consumption 
to recover, but she is anxious to follow me. Reached 
Ikurupu. Old grass house very grimy. Quite a large 
number have joined the school. Large Magic-Lantern 



A COOL SEASON S WORK. 355 

Meeting in the evening ; the church was too small, so 
we met in the open air, and here, as at other places, 
many heard the story of Jesus for the first time. May 
this seed sown by the wayside find good soil. The 
crowd gazed and listened most attentively. 

Thursday llth. Emerged at Port Resolution, having 
been six nights on the way. Though very tired and 
lame, yet we were very happy ; for we had tokens of 
encouragement all the way, and felt sure more good 
had been done than we could see. The day will declare. 

Again, on the 15th, we made a journey to Yanumarer, 
staying one night and giving a Magic-Lantern Exhibition. 
As the district is much broken up by gullies, it is hard 
to get the people to meet daily, so we proposed that 
Kapere-maur should build a school-house on his side of 
the main gully, to which he heartily agreed. 

Several friends in writing make reference to my 
" generals," remarking how sad they have been of late,, 
and suggesting that I must have been "depressed," 
" low-spirited," " not very well, &c. Only one, who had 
lived for many years on Tanna, understood all, and 
wrote : " We particularly sympathise with you in your 
own trials " ; and again, " On reading your letter I felt 
how much I could put between the lines." Yes ! we 
had sad times in the end of last year and the beginning 
of this, and in telling even half the truth, our epistles 
would be sad ; but as you see, I have fewer trials to tell 
of this time. The records of the cool seasons, one 
of which is just closing, are always more cheering than 
those of the hot seasons, when we suffer more from heat, 
have generally more earthquakes, are in terror of 
hurricanes, and the consequent quarrelling among the 



356 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

tribes. In the good (?) old times when the "Dayspring" 
left us early in December, and we knew we should be 
isolated for at least four months from the outside world, 
with all the mav-be s which might happen during these 
long lonely weeks, I used to say I was like one entering 
a long dark tunnel, and felt clammy and creepy at the 
thought. When we got beyond the middle of the 
time, the hope of the return of the " Dayspring " was 
like a ray of light dimly gleaming in the far distance, 
which day by day became brighter, till the vessel came 
back laden with letters, messages, and tokens of love 
from home and friends. 

This dark tunnel has been greatly illuminated by the 
monthly visits of the inter-island steamer, which never 
failed once to call on us during last hot season ; and if 
the stopping of the New South Wales Government 
subsidy leads to the steam service ceasing, and we have 
to return to a sailing vessel, and two mails a year, I 
fear we will not take kindly to the change. 

On the 22nd August we went on board the S.S. 
41 Croydon," for a trip round the group on account of 
some mission business. We had lovely weather nearly 
all the time, and enjoyed our voyage much. The 
vessel was so clean, and every one from the Captain 
downwards was courteous and kind ; thus things were 
in every respect a great contrast to what they had been 
twelve months before. We called at nearly every 
mission station, saw Dr and Mrs Lamb still enjoying 
tent life ; had a peep at not a few copra stations, met 
a good many of the island traders, and formed 
our opinions of each. I do not wish, however, to 
express these opinions, for I have seen how true the 



A COOL SEASON S WO UK. 357 



poet s words often are, "things are not what they 
seem," and people making a hurried visit and getting a 
cursory glance, seldom come to right conclusions. 

While at Aulua, Malekula, Tukoru, an Efatese 
teacher, caught a fine turtle, and next morning Mr 
Leggatt and we took it on board. Mr Leggatt shouted 
to the Captain that he was bringing off a fish for his 
breakfast. Fancy the Captain s surprise when the gift 
weighed 280 Ibs. We had many a breakfast off it, and 
when enjoying the cutlets, stew, or soup therefrom, we 
thought of the proverbial London alderman whose 
mouth is said to water at the sight of the delicious 
soup or morsels of green fat. We spent about a week 
in Fila waiting for the " liockton," and were much 
impressed with the march of civilisation there; if the 
presence of four steamers in one day, besides other 
craft, imply that, . . . 

November 4th. Celebrated the anniversary of our 
church opening by giving every individual in this- 
district some article of clothing: also strings of beads 
and Jews harps as rewards for regular attendance at 
school. We put up ropes on either side of the church, 
and hung the gifts on these, instead of a Christmas 
tree. Each gift had the recipient s name pinned on it. 
We had a prayer meeting, and distributed them at the 
close. We met again in the afternoon, when I made up 
nearly one hundred portions of food, consisting of a 
quantity of rice, a piece of salt meat and a biscuit. 
Every man, woman and child had a share, and went 
home glad. We had a grand Magic-Lantern display in 
the evening to a crowded house, many heathen coming 
for the occasion. 



358 AGNES C. P. WATT. 



I think no one can call this a sad record, seeing we 
can report three new church members, three Christian 
marriages, a new station opened, some encouraging 
tours among our out-stations, and the renewal of an 
old station. But I have still another encouraging fact 
to note. Many of you will remember that our people 
gave their first collection last year in money. This 
year they have given in all eleven bags of copra, which 
realised 4 4s. That has been duly sent to the 
Treasurer of the Presbyterian Church of New Zealand. 

November 5th. Kapere-maur having built the 
school-house as we proposed, we went to-day to the 
opening ceremony, at which we had a prayer meeting 
and a native feast. We gave presents out of a parcel 
sent by the Sydney Ladies Association. This new 
station is called Iresban, and is our eighth out-station. 
Here Kapere and his little daughter will conduct a 
daily or even twice a day meeting, singing hymns, 
praying, teaching the alphabet, and repeating by rote. 

We have now six Tannese helpers, men who, in the 
absence of a teacher, call their fellow- villagers to 
prayer. Their qualifications are few, their lives for 
from what they ought to be ; but they are superior to 
their fellows, and it is a decided advance on Tanna for 
these men to take the position they do. They are all 
eloquent in prayer, and one or two of them seem very 
much in earnest. We have given them 1 each this 
year in recognition of their services. We hope they 
will soon be worthy of the place of teachers, and get 
full salary. 

November 30th. Kwamera. It is not quite a 
fortnight since we came here by boat, accompanied by 



.4 COOL SEASON S WORK. 



Mr and Mrs Gray and two children. In that time, the. 
missionaries have made a tour to the west side of 
Tanna, coming back by boat. That over, they printed 
two books in Weasisian. At these they worked very 
hard ; some days they were eighteen hours in the 
printing-office ; but this could not be avoided, as a 
week was lost through weather, and our time was 
limited, seeing we must be back in Port Resolution to 
catch the steamer. The wind and sea are now high, so 
the next move seems to be to walk overland. 

December 5th. Left Kwamera on the 2nd, and 
slept that night at Yaneveker. Mr Gray had his 
Aneroid Barometer with an altitude scale, and by it 
Yaneveker was found to be 450 feet above sea-level. 
Next day we came on here, taking the highest road, 
and the highest point we reached was 870 feet. We 
had good weather ; and having chosen the easiest 
paths, we accomplished the journey in comparative 
comfort, though very tired. 

I often remark how good the Tannese are in helping 
us along. This time we were a goodly band, and 
needed many carriers from district to district. Besides 
ourselves, Mr and Mrs Gray and the two children, we 
had a goat which caused us no little amusement by the 
way, as well as toil. Many saw a goat for the first 
time, and she pulled and dragged on her rope every 
way but that in which she was wanted to go. The 
children were carried a good deal in the first part of 
the way, but as we n eared Port Resolution and got to 
the smooth level road, they trotted along merrily. 

AGNES C. P. WATT. 



XXVIII. 

"FAINT, YET PURSUING. 

C4ENERAL LETTKR. 

PORT RESOLUTION, TAISNA, 

12th June, 1893. 

In my last journal, written in January, I referred to 
the remarks of some who thought certain letters of 
mine had been written when I was despondent. I 
suggested that probably the journals, written as we 
commenced the hot season, were darker-tinted because 
of the prospect of all the may-be s of that usually 
trying time of the year. On the other hand, the cool 
season letters ought to be bright and cheery; for our 
life then is usually very enjoyable. The weather is 
cool, there is no fear of hurricane, and we usually see 
some visitors. I have often said that April and May 
are my happiest months, as all the season lies before 
me; and with regard to things earthly, I find more 
enjoyment in anticipation than in realisation. 

Well, at present, I am as happy as the day is long ; 
but, that you may keep pace with me, I must go back to 
January. Shortly after writing that month s mail, we 
left Port Resolution and went overland to KAvamera. 
Never before did I feel so unwilling to undertake the 
journey, and never before did I accomplish it in such 



FAINT, YET PUKSUINd. 36* 



weakness. We spent live nights on the way, and day 
by day we became more miserable in body, though 
happy in mind, for the people were kindness itself, and 
we were on the path of duty ; but on the last day 
William fairly broke down, and had to lie for hours 
under a tree on the beach, or in a native hut. When 
somewhat rested we resumed the last stage of our 
journey, and crawled home in time for tea. 

We were so glad to be at Kwamera again, and away 
from Port Resolution house, which, being some distance 
from the sea and surrounded by dense vegetation, is 
very hot, while Kwamera being on the ocean beach, we 
knew that there we would get any breeze that was 
going. Thus we entered hopefully on our work there - r 
but alas ! the people seem twice dead ; nay, plucked up 
by the roots. True, there was much sickness, and 
many were ill, but that alone did not account for the 
thin congregations and the small classes, which grieved 
us from day to day. About that time I read a story 
about the " Lone Star Mission," and I felt that if 
Kwamera were the only parish we had, I would call 
this the " Lone Mission without the Star." Many 
things have led to this state of affairs. In 1889 several 
of our lads were taken away to Queensland in a labour 
vessel ; then death took away a goodly number of our 
best people. Since our return from furlough in 1890, 
the mortality has been striking among our girls and 
young men. Of a Sabbath Morning Bible Class I had 
before 1889, nearly all are dead or away in Queensland - r 
and in January last, two of my three remaining girls 
emigrated to Queensland ; one accompanying her 
husband, the other eloping with a young man, though. 



"362 AOXES C. P. WATT. 



she was a grass widow, her husband being already in 
Queensland. The young boys who are left are turned 
against school. They are told, " Look how all the 
young people of the Mission have died." Whether if 
we had kept our health and been able to go out more 
among the people, things would have improved, I 
cannot tell; but from being miserable and only able 
to crawl through our duties, we were laid completely 
aside. William had been out of sorts for months, but 
on February 8th he became alarmingly ill. For ten 
days he was very weak, and had all the symptoms of 
remittent fever. Then he began to recover, but oh, 
how slowly ! Fortunately I was able to nurse him ; 
but I did long for civilisation with all its comforts, and 
for friends with all their help and sympathy. He was 
only one week well, when I took ill ; and for a whole 
month I was confined to bed or sofa. The nausea was 
continuous; I was brought very low, and had to be 
waited on like a child. 

Having two head stations, we cannot keep flocks of 
goats at each, and so we had only two milk goats at 
Kwamera. One of them was giving a good pint a day 
while William was ill, but alas ! she died suddenly one 
day, apparently of poison, and so our milk supply 
ceased. Milk diet was the best for us, and to me it 
was a real trial to be without it. How I did loathe 
milJdess gruel, milMess arrowroot, and miUdess sago, or, 
for a change, tinned beef tea. Nor dare I take more 
solid food even if I had had the appetite, which was 
awanting. In the beginning of April I was brought 
round here, to Port Resolution, on a mattress in the stern 
of the boat. It was a risky thing, as I had not been out 



FAINT, YET PURSUING 1 . 363 

of bed for a month, but we had a fair passage, and the 
change acted like magic. In a few days I was able to 
move about, and recovered much faster than William 
had done. Health returning, we did not repine, 
although here, too, we are reduced to a milkless diet, 
the trader s dog having worried the one milk goat, and 
the other being strangled a short time after by its 
tether. 

Many a time when we were ill, and often since then, 
we have said, " What a blessing we were not both ill 
together, else there might have been no one left to tell 
the tale." I, especially, was helplessness itself. While 
native Christians do very well when there is some one to 
superintend and suggest, they rarely do anything of 
their own accord. I have known of traders, men living 
alone in grass huts, being five days without seeing a 
human being, and quite unable to help themselves. 
So you see the Old Book is right in this matter, 
" Two are better than one." 

We were informed by the last mail from the 
" Croydon " that a vessel of some kind would leave 
Sydney in April with stores and mails for the Mission. 
It is now the 14th of May, but we have seen nothing 
of the expected vessel. A sailing vessel is a very 
uncertain visitor; she is so dependent on weather. I, 
for one, will mourn all my days in the New Hebrides if 
we have to return to the good (?) old days of the 
" Dayspring." The " Croydon " came to anchor every 
four weeks in this bay, where I could go on board, if I 
wished, in smooth water. This made life much more 
pleasant than when, as of yore, the "Dayspring" lay 
miles off, and when I had to go on board, my tongue 



364 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

literally clove to the roof of my mouth, as reeling and 
staggering through a heavy sea our little boat ploughed 
her way to the "Dayspring"; and then, who can 
describe the scene at the ship s side ! 

Notwithstanding all our sickness at Kwamera, we 
managed to get seven new hymns printed, bringing our 
hymnal up to ninety-jive, We added them to our 
hymn books, and bound about two hundred and fifty 
copies; but we were never able to teach these. 
Since coming here we have introduced four of the new 
hymns, accompanied by our baby organ, and the effect 
has been very encouraging. Without doubt our Tannese 
have an ear for music, and under training would prove 
good pupils. " Go, sound the trump on India s shore," 
they sing with great gusto, and a paraphrase of our 
Saviour s words as recorded in Matthew v. 43-48, sung 
to the tune "Barrow," has proved a great favourite. 
But the greatest favourite of all is a translation of 
" Thou did st leave Thy throne," sung to the tune to 
which it is set in " Songs and Solos." We practise 
morning and evening, and we pray that the saving 
truths thus committed to memory may prove good seed 
sown on a good soil. 

Here, unlike Kwamera, we have excellent meetings 
daily, and on Sabbaths all the population, with the 
exception of one man and two women, attend the 
services. Much Scripture knowledge is being acquired; 
and we earnestly desire an outpouring of the Holy 
Spirit to quicken their hearts and apply the truth to 
them ; for although they thus fear the Lord, they serve 
other gods, and cling to their heathen customs with a 
tenacity worthy of a better cause. Many heathen 



FAIXT, YET PURSUING. 365 

customs have been given up, and the grosser heathen 
ceremonies are things of the past ; but there is still 
much to be undone before real progress in Christianity 
can be reported. 

The past hot season has been exceptionally wet, and, 
so far, the cool season is keeping up this peculiarity ; 
but I am pleased to say we have had no earthquakes, 
no hurricanes, and no war. 

On Tuesday, May llth, the schooner "Sovereign" 
called at Weasisi, and we received a mail by her which 
had been landed at Efate by the "Rockton" about a 
fortnight before. By her, we heard from Dr Lamb 
that Ambrim was a desolation, and that their infant 
twin sons had died. We also heard that two of 
Dr Gunn s family had died on Futuna ; and, heaviest of 
all, that Mrs Mackenzie of Efate had died of dysentery. 
In her death, our Mission has lost one of the bravest 
and noblest of its women ; and our hearts bleed for 
brother Mackenzie, left alone at his station, and the 
four young people in the colonies left motherless. 
Doubtless she is now realising the hundredfold reward 
promised to those who leave all for Christ s sake. 

We learned from the " Sovereign " that the " Lark " 
was the vessel chartered to do the Mission work, and 
that she might soon be expected here ; but her arrival 
was to be of little consequence to us, as the band of 
brethren and " sistern " returning from furlough, whom 
we expected to see in passing, had already arrived in 
Efate by the "Rockton/ Thus all hope of seeing 
kindred spirits was cut off. We also learned that there 
was to be no Synod this year. 

On the 24th May the " Lark " cast anchor in the 



AGNES C. P. WATT. 



Bay. She brought the appalling news from Dr Guun r 
that, besides his two children who had died, Ruth, the 
youngest, had been at death s door, and he himself had 
been very ill. The sickness was dysentery, and it has 
cut off 130 people in Futuna, out of a population of 
480. 

At this season of the year there is usually a great 
amount of feasting and dancing on Tanna. Generally 
a Tannese feast is accompanied with dancing, and a 
Tanna dance by feasting. When we speak of a Tannese 
feast we mean what is called here a " Niari," which 
might be described a "Fair," only that the food is 
exchanged in presents, and not bought and sold. 
Dancing we use as the equivalent of the Tannese 
"Nakwiari." At the Nakwiari, cooked food and live 
pigs are exchanged, but dancing is the principal thing. 

In our neighbourhood there was a " Niari." Our 
church-goers gave the yams to a heathen tribe, who in 
return killed and gave them fourteen pigs. We 
estimated there would be about five or six tons of yams 
given. Whole bunches of yams were hung from a 
scaffolding built round the sides of the public square ; 
single yams were hung by creepers from the branches 
of the overspreading banyan tree, each draped in green 
leaves. A pile of yams was raised in the middle of the 
square like an immense sugar loaf. It measured about 
twenty-four feet round the base, and was about ten feet 
high. We were pleased with the dress and demeanour 
of our parishioners, who, by the absence of paint and 
other signs of heathenism, and the presence of clothing, 
testified to their profession of Christianity. 

A small schooner, the " Harold " of Sydney, was lying 



FAIXT, YET PCKSCIXG. 



in the Bay, and the party on board were interested 
witnesses of the above feast. The various hues and 
designs of paint on several faces caused one to remark, 
" If I had a girl like that (pointing to one) on exhibition, 
I would make my fortune." Said girl had on scarlet, 
yellow and black paint in abundance, and evidently 
thought she was a beauty. 

The day following the feast there was a Nakwiari 
at an inland village. To a heathen Tannese the 
Nakwiari in his village is the event of the year. Special 
dances and special music are got up for the occasion, 
and for months these are practised almost daily. During 
these preparatory weeks both men and women fast to a 
certain extent in order to look slim and neat for the 
dance ; but when all is over excess of every kind is 
indulged in, as well as obscene practices. 

How isolated our life is this year ! what a contrast 
to the previous years when we had a monthly mail ! 
We are both feeling dragged down and in need of a 
change, but that is next to impossible this year. . . . 

AGNES C. P. WATT. 



XXIX. 
WAITING. 

THE LAST GENERAL LETTER. 

PORT RESOLUTION, TANNA, 
NEW HEBRIDES, 

November 18th, 1893. 

The chief characteristic of this season has been rain, 
-and here it never rains but it pours. To the natives 
the incoming year threatens to be one of scarcity they 
say, famine ; but then we know that natives exaggerate 
at times. During twenty years life on Tanna we never 
saw the native gardens so far back ; at Kwamera only 
one is finished, all the rest are barely begun, as the 
incessant rain prevents the work being done, and in 
fact causes the bush to grow as fast as it is cut down. 
As the Tannese believe that they have power over the 
elements, one and another is credited with making this 
rain. In some cases pigs have been given as bribes to 
have it removed ; in other cases threats of murder 
have been made for the same purpose ; but alas ! from 
the Tannamen s point of view bribes and threats have 
alike been in vain, and it is still rain, rain, rain. 

As rain is the special feature in the physical world 
here, so Waiting has formed a large part of our service, 
.and the grace of patience has been much called into 



WAITING. 369> 



exercise. We have had a long \vait for health, weary 
waits for an erratic maritime service, trying waits for 
favourable winds to enable us to go between our two 
principal stations, and a continual wait, looking for the 
" early and latter rain " on our work. 

Although our lives are eminently busy ones, yet in 
another sense they are wholly made up of waiting 
waiting like the husbandman for the precious fruits, 
which require long patience. During this year of 
isolation I have felt the waiting much. I was deeply 
impressed with an article which came to us last mail, 
and as it expresses exactly our experience, I will quote 
a part of it : " Every old soldier knows that the hardest 
thing in connection with a battle is the waiting under 
fire for the orders to move. To push forward in the 
fight is exciting work, so exciting as to call out the 
energies of a man and keep his mind full with thoughts 
of that which he has to do for the moment. He has no 
time then to think of danger, or to speculate upon 
chances. But when a man has to stand or lie in line 
with the bullets whistling about his ears, and nothing 
to do in the nature of action or effort, he is sure to be 
thinking of danger and fearing the results of delay, and 
to be suffering from the strain upon his nerves, which 
is all the more intense because there is nothing for 
his muscles to do. As it is with the soldier in physical 
warfare, so is it with the soldier in life s battle. 
Waiting under fire is harder than moving forward in 
the thick of the fight ; yet waiting is a large part of 
man s duty in life, when he would fain be actively 
doing something. ... A city business man, who had 
not indulged in the luxury of vacations, was induced to 
24 



370 AGXES a P. WATT. 

take a holiday in the country. It did not suit his 
active mind, and when he was asked by a friend how it 
seemed to him, he answered, I feel all the time as if I 
was waiting at the corner of the street for a car to come 
along. Many another man can appreciate that state of 
mental strain. . . . Yet just because waiting is so hard, 
waiting is the one duty of the hour to be endured 
bravely and in hope, when there is nothing to do but to 
wait. Patience is the endurance in waiting at the call 
of God, and such patience is enjoined and commended 
as a Christian duty and a Christian virtue." The 
apostle says, " Ye have need of patience " ; and our Lord 
says, " In your patience ye shall win your souls." 

Our illnesses of February and March had so pulled 
down our strength that it was August before we 
attempted any itinerating. In August, however, we 
had a twelve days mission in the bush. We spent two 
nights each at Yanumarer and Yanatuan, and seven at 
Yaneveker. At the last place we superintended the 
erection of a new grass school-house. The old one was 
taken down on the Monday; the new one commenced on 
the Tuesday and finished on Friday. Many hands made 
light work, and we had over forty assisting. Some 
were gathering material, some were building, and others 
cooking. Saturday was the feast day over it ; the 
inaugural dinner, so to speak. Two pigs were cooked, 
and native puddings ad libitum were prepared. As 
at home the minister s wife frequently provides a table 
at the annual soiree or debt extinction social, so here 
we did our part by giving dresses or girdles to all. 

As some one wisely remarks, " A minister must teach 
the poorest of his flock that he is something more than 



WAITING. 371 



a superior relieving officer, although he must bear in 
mind that it is often in this capacity that he is able 
first to reach their hearts. Christ not only taught, but 
fed the multitudes that followed Him, and the proclama 
tion of the Gospel has ever been accompanied by deeds 
of charity. Sympathy and silver are among the most 
certain ways to popularity." Believing in the above 
sentiments, we gave out about a hundred garments on 
this tour, and feel that all will tend to the furtherance 
of the Gospel ; for these love-gifts from Christians 
enable our simple-minded people the better to under 
stand the love that led Christ to give Himself. Among 
the heathen a pure gift is unknown. A gift only 
means an exchange of goods, and often some article is 
given with the expectation that the giver will receive 
far more than its value. 

On Sabbath the united congregations of Yanatuan 
and Yaneveker met in the new church ; and being clad 
in their new "braws," looked very well. We had 
Communion, but of the Tannese, only Kauraka 
communicated, as both Kuan and Kauawan were lying 
very ill. Thus our company only numbered seven ; but 
is not the presence of Jesus promised to the two or 
three ? 

Often I feel sure that the smoke and din of battle 
keep us from seeing the victory that is being won ; for 
doubtless the Tanna of to-day is not the Tanna of ten 
years ago. We were most hospitably entertained by 
the people, and in that alone we have a proof of the 
great change effected on them. Lately, an old fellow 
living near us at Port Resolution tried to incite us to 
give presents indiscriminately, by telling us how the 



372 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

first missionaries did, making the gospel a lucrative 
profession to the Tannaman. Unfortunately for our 
greedy friend, we were able to remind him of the 
other side, better known to us, how three missionaries 
had been robbed, their houses broken into, their 
teachers maltreated, and even killed ; and they 
themselves at last obliged to flee for their lives. Now 
the tables are completely turned, for not only are we 
fed and cared for while in their villages, but on leaving 
Yaneveker we had three splendid porkers given us : 
one preceded us by a few days, and one followed 
a few days after, but the third headed the procession 
as we returned. The comicality of our line of march 
excited my risibilities. Of course we will give them 
return presents ; but even double or treble their value 
would not induce an unfriendly or heathen person 
to give them to us. The sight of us returning, laden 
with gifts, and followed by an affectionate band of 
church-goers, impresses the heathen with the idea that 
there may be something in our message after all. 
Notwithstanding our long walks and life in grass 
huts, we were much benefited by our bush residence, 
and our hearts were cheered with tokens of advance. 

On the 12th September, the " Lark " called with our 
much-longed-for mail, and had on board Mrs Gillan 
and Miss Jessie Mackenzie ; the former on her way to 
Malekula to rejoin her husband and resume her work ; 
the latter to join her father at Erakor. I had thus the 
rare pleasure of seeing a white woman s face. I had 
parted with Mrs Gray in December 1892, and from 
that till September 1893 I saw nought of my own sex 
save the sable beauties of Tanna. I felt so excited 



WAITING. 373 



with joy that I fear I failed to show them much 
attention. That night we read and wrote letters till 
two a.m., and were up and at it before six next 
morning, this being the only chance of getting a mail 
away for at least three months. 

Since our illnesses we have longed for a change, but 
with the present maritime service, any change off 
the island is next to impossible, so we made up our 
minds to make a visit to the Grays suffice. We spent 
a very pleasant fortnight under their hospitable roof. 
How I luxuriated in the freedom from household duties 
and cares after more than a year of daily toil, save a 
month on a sick bed ! and how pleasant we felt it to be 
with kindred spirits ! We went and returned in our 
boat. The going down was lovely; the sky bright 
blue and the ocean calm as a millpond. But coming 
back it was just on the eve of a gale ; the sea was dark 
and lumpy and the sky black as ink. We left Weasisi 
in rain, but got little by the way. For more than a 
week we were detained by high winds and heavy seas. 
On the llth October a boat s crew, who were here from 
Aneityum, took us round to Kwamera. Both wind and 
sea were still high, so to save what is usually the worst 
part of the voyage I walked over a neck of land to 
Kwanaris, and the boat met me there. I was prepared 
to walk to Kwamera if the sea had been too rough, but 
William persuaded me to go by boat. We did have a 
spin through the water ; we surged and raced along 
like a race-yacht, taking in a spray now and again. 
Having a very heavy load of corrugated iron on board, 
I felt no fear of a capsize ; but I felt sure we would 
sink like lead if we took a sea on board, such as we 



374 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

had done some nine years, ago when we barely escaped 
being swamped. I am not ashamed to say I was 
nervous, but I had to hide it, as Watonia* shook like 
an aspen leaf; and though it took me all my time to 
keep a calm exterior, I did my best to still her fears. I 
believe a year of life and hard work is not so wearing 
to me as an hour in the boat in such weather ; and yet 
this year I have travelled sixty miles of open sea, round 
a coral-bound coast, and generally Ave have had rough 
trips. It is very awkward having two principal stations 
and only one boat ; for while the Tannamen are willing^ 
boatmen, they cannot walk overland for fear of other 
tribes. After all, we were very fortunate in our run 
round to Kwamera, for we got no rain, and our 
unexpected arrival on such an unpropitious day helped 
to bespeak an unusually hearty welcome for us. No 
sooner were we and our perishables safe up at the house, 
than down came the rain, and it fell in torrents all 
afternoon ; yet one and another came through the wet 
to shake hands with us. Truly, Nahi-abba s death f 
has cleared the atmosphere, and we have greater liberty. 
We had an important meeting the day after our 
arrival, and persuaded the men to resume church 
attendance. It was gratifying to see many, who had 
turned their backs on all services for many years, 

* A trader s child she had taken charge of. 

t Wednesday, 5th July. Awakened last night about twelve 
by our dog " Rockton " barking, and heard crying. On William 
asking what it was, we were told, "Nahi-abbi is dead." Could 
not believe it, but the daylight revealed it. " How are the mighty 
fallen and the warriors laid low ! " Crowds came to wail. He was 
buried at sundown. -Extract from Diary. 



376 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

returning on the following Sabbath. During the 
three weeks we spent there, we were much encouraged 
by their attitude to the gospel, and their demeanour 
toward us. I long to see the Tannese embrace the 
gospel, and pray that the Lord would seal them for His 
own. 

We spent exactly three weeks at Kwamera, and they 
were remarkably busy ones, especially to the now 
grey- whiskered missionary, who worked like a tradesman, 
or rather a slave, putting corrugated iron on our 
outhouses instead of thatch. He had willing helpers in 
one teacher and the Tannamen, but much had to be 
done by the missionary himself ; and I was often sorry 
as I saw him crawling over the iron roof either in the 
broiling sun or pelting rain ; for such work in this 
climate is no child s play. The sad thing about such 
roofs at Kwamera is that they last so short a time, 
owing to exposure to the salt spray. Can any one 
suggest a preventive? We are at endless labour and 
no little expense, but see no help for it. Even 
painting the iron does not suffice. This roof-damaging 
exposure to the sea air has its compensations. How 
cool we feel there ! and now that all the men have 
resumed church attendance and the lads come to 
school, we intend to spend most of the ensuing hot 
season at this, our ocean-beach station. 

While at Kwamera we heard with deep sorrow that 
war had broken out near Ikurupu. An old veteran 
heathen had been shot in the bush as he was returning 
home from a neighbouring village. His body lay all 
night where he fell ; but next day his friends carried it 
home and buried it. A few hours after, his friends 



WAITING. 377 



sought revenge. They went stealthily to the village of 
another tribe, but their approach being discovered by a 
young woman, her life must go. Poor lassie, all 
unsuspecting, she had gone a few yards from her own 
door to cut some firewood, when the mean assassins 
aimed at her. There were three shots fired; two 
missed, but the third took fatal effect. I cannot tell 
you how unwilling I was to believe the report, but 
alas ! it was too true. 

My ever-willing lassie ! she who was one of our 
regular carriers between the bush stations, who was 
ever ready to obey our wishes, who was our best scholar 
at Ikurupu, and who gave good help at teaching, has 
suffered for the sins of others. The dreadful deed was 
done about sundown, and one of the last acts of 
Yauikau s life was reading some of the New Testament 
just before going out. 

The war has led to the partial suspension of work at 
Ikurupu. Kamil (the teacher) and his wife have come 
down here for the present, as the people are all too 
excited to attend school. He goes up on Sabbaths and 
conducts service. Not long ago he was late in going 
up, and on his arrival found that two young Tannamen, 
supposing he was not coming, had conducted a prayer 
meeting instead. 

The gospel on Tanna is like a plant on a foreign soil, 
and yet there is here and there a fair show of leaves 
and a promise of fruit. As you already know, the 
New Testament has given an impetus to the work. 
Here at Port Resolution all are learning to read, and a 
few can do so fluently. We have four Scripture 
readers who take their turn and read the chapter for 



378 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

the day at the Sabbath services. To encourage good 
reading, we are offering prizes to the value of 2/6 and 5/ 
each to those who will either read a chapter at first 
sight or commit a portion to memory. 

I must tell you about Ka-u. He is a young man at 
Itaku who never had lessons from us, but who learned 
the alphabet and small words through the teacher. 
Last year he was laid up for months with diseased feet, 
He whiled away the hours of weariness deciphering 
the New Testament. When we were at Kwamera he 
came to see us, and in course of conversation asked 
why Take (another man) had not got a New Testament. 
I said, " Perhaps because he was ill when they were 
distributed, or else he has just been forgotten." 
" Well," he said, " it is good you give me one for him 
now ; I sit beside him in the church, and I can point 
the place for him with my pointer." I gave him a 
New Testament, and I was amazed and gratified to see 
him open it at random, and commence to read the first 
chapter of 2nd Thessalonians. He told me of another 
lad who spends hours poring over the precious book, 
and when surprise was expressed at his diligence, he 
said, " The words in this book are not like the words of 
man ; they are good." 

I have always had great faith in the word of God 
pure and simple, knowing that " The entrance of His 
word giveth light," and would hail the day when every 
one could read ; but, as many know, the Tannese are a 
book-dreading people, and we have to keep dunning at 
them to attend school. 

I must not fail to mention that we have got tangible 
and valuable help in our work from various parts of the 



WAITING. 379 



world in the shape of made dresses. As far as I know 
the donors, I have written thanking them for their 
timely aid. The natives marvel at the love that incites 
such gifts, and many a talk they have about the good 
women who, put of pure love, cut and make garments 
for them. 

After the " Lark " calls, about December 1st, till next 
April, we have the prospect of what I call solitary 
confinement with hard labour and great heat. This 
we understand to be the last call of the " Lark," and 
what we shall have next year we do not know. We 
hope it will be better. It could hardly be worse. The 
present prospects are nothing till April at the earliest. 
Truly the " tunnel " looks longer and darker than usual ; 
but with good health and God s grace " All will be well." * 

People wonder what we get to do down here. I 
sometimes wonder myself; yet from day to day we have 
more than enough. We have innumerable calls on our 
time in the way of medicine. Many a day we have as 
many patients as if we were " medicals," while in the 
matter of medical comforts (tea and tilts) the calls are 
even more numerous. 

Although it may seem rather premature, I wish you 
all a Happy New Year ! 

Is the path difficult ? Jesus directs thee ; 
Is the path dangerous ? Jesus protects thee. 
Fear not and falter not, let the word cheer thee. 
All through the coming year He will be near thee." 

AGNES C. P. WATT. 

*This "general" was sent by the "Lark," but before she had 
left Port Resolution the s.s. "Croydon" arrived there on her way 
to Fila to resume the inter-island steam service. W. W. 



flppen&ij:. 



MEMORIAL MINUTES, ETC. 

1. FOREIGN MISSION COMMITTEE OF THE PRESBYTERIAN 
CHURCH OF NEW ZEALAND. 

The Committee desires to express its sorrow at the 
sad intelligence of the death of Mrs Watt, which took 
place at Port Resolution on April 26th, 1894. Mrs 
Watt for twenty-five years has been the untiring 
helpmeet of her husband in his efforts for the 
evangelisation of the darkened people of Tanna, and 
her own efforts for the salvation of the natives were 
constant and untiring, and she was much beloved by all 
the natives who were favourably disposed towards 
Christianity. Mrs Watt was well known to the 
members of our Church through general letters, which, 
notwithstanding the pressing claims of the work on 
Tanna, she found time to write; and by all who had 
met her personally she was highly esteemed and 
beloved, not only for her work s sake, but also on 
account of her beautiful and Christ-like character; so 
that the sorrow caused by the news of her death is deep- 
and widespread. It was not her privilege to see many 
sheaves gathered upon Tanna, but amidst the more 
difficult and trying labours of the long sowing she was 



382 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

sustained by an unshaken faith in the goodness and 
purpose of God, " who will have all men to be saved, 
and to come to the knowledge of the truth." Now she 
rests from her labours until He comes, who shall 
cause the sower and the reaper to rejoice together, 
rewarding each as his work has been. To Mr Watt we 
desire to convey our heartfelt sympathy in his 
unspeakable loss, while we pray that in his sad 
bereavement he may be sustained by the Blessed 
Master, whom he, and she for whom he mourns, so 
diligently and faithfully served. 

WILLIAM GRANT, Leeston, 

Interim Convener, Foreign Mission Committee. 



2. MINUTE OF THE PRESBYTERY OF AUCKLAND. 

ST. ANDREW S CHURCH, AUCKLAND, 
Tuesday, 5th June, 1894. 

Which day the Presbytery of Auckland met and 
was constituted. Inter alia: On the motion of the 
Rev. R. F. Macnicol, seconded by the Rev. Thos. Norrie, 
it was unanimously resolved, "That the Presbytery 
record their deep sense of the loss which the Presbyterian 
Church of New Zealand has sustained by the death of 
Mrs Watt, the devoted wife of our much esteemed senior 
missionary, Rev. W. Watt. The Presbytery have, from 
the beginning of Mr and Mrs Watt s labours on Tanna, 
entertained a high estimate of Mrs Watt s adaptation 
to the arduous and important position she was called 
upon to occupy, and the devoted and efficient services 
which she rendered to the cause of Christ in that 



APPENDIX. 383 



difficult field. They instruct the Rev. G. B. Munro, the 
Assembly s corresponding member of the Foreign 
Mission Committee, to convey to Mr Watt their sincere 
Christian sympathy with him in his sore bereavement." 

3. RESOLUTION OF THE PRESBYTERY OF WELLINGTON. 

The Presbytery of Wellington have heard with deep 
regret of the death of Mrs Watt, wife of the Rev. Wm. 
Watt, the church s esteemed missionary on Tanna, and 
they desire to put on record their high appreciation of 
her excellent Christian character, and of her valuable 
services to the Mission. Closely associated as she was 
with her husband, not only in their home life, but also 
in his missionary life, she devoted herself entirely to 
her duties in the home and in the work of the mission, 
and thus proved herself in every way a true helpmate, 
and a valuable coadj utor in the service of their common 
Lord. Her kindly genial manner and high-toned 
Christian character endeared her to all who came into 
intimate acquaintance with her, and her energy and 
devotion, combined with tact, judgment and sympathy, 
made her influence felt in the work of the mission, and 
in commending that work to the Church. Those who 
knew her intimately feel that they have lost a warm 
hearted and sympathetic friend, and cannot but regard 
her death as a loss to themselves as well as to the 
Church. The Presbytery desire to express their 
sympathy with Mr Watt in his sore bereavement ; and 
they pray that the Divine Master, whom he has so long 
and so faithfully served, may be with him in his 
loneliness and in his work, consoling and strengthening 



384 AGNES C. P. WATT. 

him, and that this sad event may be made the means 
of blessing to the native population of Tanna, among 
whom he has so long lived and laboured. 

4. LETTER FROM THE REV. I)R GOOLD, EDINBURGH, 
CONVEYING SYMPATHY OF THE DIRECTORS OF THE 
NATIONAL BIBLE SOCIETY OF SCOTLAND. 

My immediate object in writing to you at present is 
to fulfil a request of the Directors of the National Bible 
Society. At a meeting of the Board this week they 
requested me to convey to you an assurance of their 
deep sympathy with you, and of their sincere respect 
for the memory of your late wife. Some of them knew 
her personally, such as Mr Gardiner of Pollokshaws; 
most of them knew her by report; and all of them knew 
how much the cause of the Bible is indebted to you. 
A tribute of respect for her memory from some thirty 
gentlemen is of some value, all the more that the chief 
ground on which it rests is not private friendship, but 
the public usefulness of the deceased to the cause of 
Christ. It could have been no ordinary woman who, 
after long service in a remote corner, evokes the 
grateful recognition of her worth from a Board sitting 
at the opposite end of the earth. 

5. MEMORIAL MINUTE OF THE NEW HEBRIDES 
MISSION SYNOD. 

A^ELGAUHAT, ANEITYUM, NEW HEBRIDES, 

May 2nd, 1895. 

Which time and place the New Hebrides Mission 
Synod met and was duly constituted. Inter alia: 



APPENDIX. 385 



"When on the eve of meeting as a Mission Synod, we 
have been called upon to mourn the loss sustained by 
the sudden and unexpected death of Mrs Watt, the 
wife of the Rev. W. Watt, Tanna. During a period of 
twenty-five years she was permitted to go out and in 
among the people of Tanna, whose eternal welfare lay 
upon her heart. Being possessed of wonderful tact and 
energy, she became all things unto all classes, that she 
might save some. She was ever devising new schemes 
or improving old ones, that Christ might be glorified in 
their lives. Humanly speaking, we should have 
expected her amongst us for many years to come, but 
God, whose she was and whom she served, has called 
her to higher service, and our loss is great To her 
bereaved husband and relatives we offer our deepest 
sympathy, and pray that the God of all consolation may 
heal their wounded hearts." 



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